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Hidden Gems of Alsace and The Black Forest

Hi Everyone!

We (me and my husband) are planning a road trip to Alsace and Black Forest Region with our 2 years old daughter. We are planning to land at Stuttgart, then rent a car and make a round trip around Alsace and the black forest, and depart from Stuttgart. We made an itinerary as you see below, it is open to your suggestions.

I would like to ask you about Hidden gems of Alsace and the Black Forest. I mean thanks to Google and former forum discussions we all know well the small towns like Ribeauville, Kaysberg, Riquehwihr, etc., or Freiburg, Gutach Open Air Museum, Lake Titisee, Triberg. Actually, I am looking for more insider/local tips. And some interesting points that are not mentioned in every travel blog (like Ronchamp Chapel, it is 1-hour car ride away to Colmar, but worth visiting while we were already there)

The second question is about accommodation. We are planning to stay;

-first 4 nights at Obernai (It seems like it is a practical base point to explore both Strasbourg and Route des Vins)

  • 3 nights at one of the working farms near Freiburg. We want our 2 years old to experience farm life and farm animals. I need advice about farms.

-the last 2 nights near Baden-Baden. Maybe at one of the German towns like Gengenbach, Bühl?

DAY 1- 29 April Friday (Staying at Obernai)
Landing Stuttgard at 11 a.m.
Going to Karlsruhe zoo for our 2 years old 😊
Arriving at Obernai

DAY 2- 30 April / Saturday (Staying at Obernai)
Day Trip to Colmar, if we have time we can visit Montagne de Signes

DAY 3- 1 May / Sunday (Staying at Obernai)
Ribeauville, Riquewihr , Eguisheim
if we have still time we can visit Ronchamp Chapel (Notre Dame du Haut)
*** Does sunday is a bad idea to visit these towns?

DAY 4- 2 May/ Monday (Staying at Obernai)
Day Trip to Strasbourg

DAY 5- 3 May/ Tuesday (Staying at a farm near Freiburg)
Going to Freiburg and visit the old town center, maybe visiting one of the small towns near Freiburg on the way

DAY 6- 4 May/ Wednesday (Staying at a farm near Freiburg)

Day Trip to Basel (Maybe we skip this, and enjoy the farm throughout the day)

DAY 7- 5 May/ Thursday (Staying at a farm near Freiburg)

Lake Titisee (is it too touristy or worth to visit?) , Hinterzarten or Feldsee, Feldberg waterfalls

DAY 8- 6 May/ Friday (Staying near Baden-Baden or at a german town)

Sight visit to Triberg, cuckoo clock shop then
Open Air Museum Vogtsbauernhof, Gutach

DAY 9- 7 May / Saturday (Staying near Baden-Baden or at a german town)

Visiting Baden-Baden (and maybe mummelsee lake on the way)

Day 10 - 8 May/ Sunday (Departure Day)
Our flight is at 3.50 pm, so we have a couple of hours before hitting on the road to the airport. Maybe a 1-2 hour visit to Gengenbach or any other town

Posted by
6177 posts

Any reason for flying to Stuttgart? It is a pretty small airport compared to nearby Frankfurt. Lufthansa also has buses between Frankfurt and airport and Strasbourg that could be very useful for your trip.

You should also rethink the car. Using trains and buses will probably work a lot better for you for much of the trip.

Posted by
2 posts

Hi Badger, thank you for your reply!

Frankfurt was the other option but we found a direct flight to Stuttgart from our city (Ankara-Turkey) with a reasonable price.

Since we are traveling with our 2 years old, we think that car is practical for us. We may have difficulties catching the bus and trains. And also, our baby cannot wear a mask and we are not very comfortable with the public transport during pandemic :(

Posted by
6231 posts

I'm going to be heading to that region in early May and will be basing myself in Gengenbach, which by all accounts is a lovely town (I've heard it called a "chocolate box" village) with many half-timbered houses in a beautiful setting. Keep in mind that I have not been to this region yet, but I am planning to skip Baden-Baden, Lake Titisee and Triberg, since there does not seem to be much to interest me (I'm not interested in cuckoo clocks, although you may be) and they all seem to be more heavily touristed.

There are some charming towns between or near Gengenbach and the museum in Gutach, including Haslach and Schiltach. You might want to post this question on the Germany board, too, for further information. You can also check out a post I wrote with questions about this area - there was a lot of information there. https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/germany/day-trips-from-gengenbach

Posted by
4616 posts

Have you checked the price of rental cars when you are crossing borders? Rental cars have been very expensive since covid, and crossing borders usually incurs additional expenses.
Thankfully the countries you plan to visit have dropped covid testing, but you'll have to continuously monitor the situation for changes as you travel.
Your trip does sound lovely, so wishing you safe and wonderful adventures!.

Posted by
2376 posts

Gengenbach is a nice town. I will be making my 3rd stay this summer.

On the way to the airport, one route would be via Rottweil - that’s what I plan on this year.

For possible farms, google ‘urlaub auf dem bauernhof mit kindern schwarzwald’

Posted by
7181 posts

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/switzerland/stein-am-rein-and-schaffhausen-switzerland

I am not arguing against your car rental, but since it costs nothing, it is short-sighted not to investigate whether the KONUS transport card might not be useful on a day or two. I guess that two is too old for a chest carrier, but it is so nice to make a one-way walk (using the free BF train to start) on easy woodland trails back to your hotel. I did this, ven when I had a car. Does your hotel offer easy childcare?

I had an incentive to visit Titisee because I started my hike to my luxury hotel in Hinterzarten from there. But I was glad to get a look at it. No, it's not essential. I have not been to Obernai, but it seems a little too far north for daily trip convenience. We slept three nights in Ribeauville. Parking is an issue in high season. We are not budget travelers, so I'll add that L'Auberge de L'Ill (that's the name of a river, I - L -L ) was a very worthwhile, extremely expensive Michelin 3-star for our Wedding Anniversary. I'm don't know if infants are welcome.

Posted by
80 posts

Esslingen and Tubingen are very charming towns. Both very close to Stuttgart and easily reachable by train or car.

Posted by
1542 posts

Pat, the OP is picking up and dropping off her car in Stuttgart. Crossing the border into France does not incur any additional expense.

Elvan, your plan looks good but I'll make a couple of suggestions. Try to stick to two bases instead of three. Nights 1 to 5 or 6 in Alsace, then pick just one place to stay in the Black Forest. Stay a bit further south than Obernai. This gives you easy access to Colmar, the monkey zoo and the three villages you mentioned. You can also get to Strasbourg fairly quickly: park and ride on the outskirts, or park in Selestat and take the train. The villages of Kayserberg and Bergheim are well worth visiting, as is Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg. Kientzheim Castle has an eagle show.

Basel can also be reached from your spot in Alsace. I liked walking the streets and by the river in Basel. There's a toy museum for your toddler, another zoo, plus short cruise options on the Rhine.

Visit Freiburg on your transfer day, then go to your farm for three or four nights, somewhere around Triberg or Gutach. This is good for the Open Air Museum, the big cuckoo clock and waterfall. Gengenbach is easily reached and is a very attractive village. Europa Park is about an hour away, a Rodelbahn close by. Staufen is a lovely little village, the walk along the creek from Bad Krozingen easy and nice.

On the way back to Stuttgart you can stop in Horb for breakfast.

Posted by
39 posts

My family did the following by train/bus-
(parents were in Strasbourg when I joined)

3 nights Colmar with Kaysersburg day trip
2 nights Freiburg with Titisee day trip

Titisee was a ZOO in the main part of the lake where all the buses and trains let ppl off. We started walking around the lake it it quickly became peaceful and lovely. Stopped to use the bathroom at the camp group and found an Adams Family pin ball machine. Stopped again at the fancy 'chalet' looking hotel for Black Forest cake and coffee. Was delicious. Then completed the loop of the lake and returned to the fray. We ended up loving it though there was a moment of 'yikes!'.

Parents and I then parted ways and I went to Basel and Zurich while they departed via Frankfurt. I am a museum girl and enjoyed the ones in Basel, and particularly enjoyed watching people swim in the Rhine. Frankly if Basel was the least interesting part of the trip for me. I don't think it will have much to offer a 2 year old. She will love the little mini canals they have in Freiburg with sail boats.

Posted by
3049 posts

FWIW I've lived in Stuttgart for 11 years and visited Alsace on short trips at least 10 times or so.

You should also rethink the car. Using trains and buses will probably
work a lot better for you for much of the trip.

Not at all. I prefer to trave by public transit but every time but once we've driven when visiting Alsace, it's next to impossible to see much of the charming towns without a car, believe me, I've tried. Even the new private bus that goes between towns can be a problem if you want to get dinner in a village, as we discovered.

I think this is a good trip overall, tempted to agree with the above poster about having one base in Alsace and one base in the Black Forest, especially with a kid. With a car you really don't have to drive that far to see quite a lot. Obernai is nice, but very crowded with tourists. We like basing in Colmar itself (although obviously also very busy with tourists!) because there's more to do. We particularly enjoy staying in Le Petit Venice area between Blvd St. Pierre and Rue des Fleurs because you're in the quaint part of the town but right at the edge of "normal" streets so you can zip out of the city easily for all your trips. This is one of the best flats I've ever stayed at anywhere, was there last fall.

The Black Forest hasn't wowed me no matter how many times I visit (I prefer the Schwabish Alb south of Stuttgart for scenery and a less touristy vibe) but it is very kid oriented and kid friendly. I wouldn't stay in Baden Baden, it's pretty but mostly charmless to me. I much prefer Freiburg but of course it's a larger city, but there are nice villages not too far away. I think Basel is worth a day trip sure! Please DM me if you have any questions, particularly about getting in or out of Stuttgart, what's nearby, or Alsace.

Posted by
1357 posts

A couple of years ago we visited several places on your itinerary and enjoyed them all. One you didn't mention that's worth considering is Staufen, Germany. It's located south of Freiburg. We had a late breakfast there followed by wandering around and a wine tasting.