Great Food and Not so Great

One of the things I discovered is most of my "food" memories were for some real simple items. I had my first Panini while walking the streets of Paris. It was awesome. While walking up to see King Ludwig's castle, I tried Quark Balchen, little deep fried cream cheeze dough balls. They were soooo good. Had some cheese cake in Fuessen. Huge piece. Beans in tomato sauce for breakfast in London, Chocolate/Grand Marnier crepe on the lawn below the Eiffel tower, the food that didn't end at our Hydra hotel, Souvlaki from a stand in Athens, that oozed tzatziki, DUFF beer in Florence. Even having a Big Mac on Champs d'Elyse was so cool. I guess what I'm sayings, it not necessary the food, but your state of mind. Cheers

Regardless of where I travel, I have personally found that asking a local for recommendations has always panned out better than using a guidebook, recommendations from good friends or strangers on the internet (like here), or even my old trusty resource for hotels, tripadvisor. I'll typically get a few recommendations from, say, my B&B owner and will walk by all of them to see what's up. If a place is packed with other local people...good sign. If there are award stickers in the window or magazine/newspaper articles posted praising the place...another good sign. And if it's a young crowd...even another good sign (personal preference on this one). You probably can't go wrong in a place like this. Frankly, I have never had much luck with RS recommendations...I say skip them. When you see a place full of American or other tourists, skip it. Also, skip the places smack dab in the touristy areas, because they're expensive and no good. University students can give you great recommendations on cheap yet very good eats. Ask a local for a recommendation way outside of any tourist area...some place tourists would never, ever even stumble across accidentally. The best pizza I recall ever eating on vacation was in a tiny joint in Venice, probably a mile from San Marco. Kids playing soccer in the street, laundry hanging from building to building, a little dog running around, and a pizza place with just a few outside tables and no English speakers anywhere. They had to get a dishwasher kid who could sort of understand what we trying to order. It was fun and about as authentic an experience as one can have in such a touristy city. Sometimes, you can't help but doing a touristy thing just because you're there – eating crappy Mozart Balls in Salzburg, chowing down on inauthentic Schneeballen in RodT, or eating chocolate tort at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna. It's an experience.

While Michael has many good points, I don't agree that the only good food is found outside the tourist centers and devoid of any Americans. Most of the best restaurants in Chicago are filled with people not from here. I mostly do eat at places that have a lot of tourists, but that focus on quality. The guidebooks are helpful for finding such places. As a general rule, do avoid the most heavily touristed areas in which ONLY tourists will frequent, like the Champs Elysee or Piazza Rotunda. Most places will have menus posted; that might not help with quality but does help with generating your own interest. If the menu is all English - move along. Most will have English for translation since it's the universal language, but that's ok. While it's a good idea to find places with lots of people, the problem is that most of Europe eats later than North Americans do. I'm often one of the first persons in a restaurant, and that's at 7:30. It feels weird and I often worry the place stinks, but if my meal was good, it's crowded by the time I leave. Asking locals or your hotel operators is ok for guidance, but often they get kickbacks for steering people to certain places, or their cousin owns a place and they'll always send you there, regardless of quality. Plus there is no guarantee that they know what good food is. Sorry this is not a list of my favorite places. Such a list will not help you for such large cities; it'll be overwhelming and the options endless. That's what the guidbooks or online review sites are for.

We have never had a bad meal in all our traveling. Many have been interesting, but none have been bad. There's nothing like fish and chips that has a piece of fish the size of a plank. In India we ate veg only for ten days. That was a unique experience. There are local customs relating to food that one should try. You really haven't traveled if you don't.

I think this is a great question. It's not always easy to find memorable meals. Last time we were in Paris, we visited a creperie out in the 14th arr. called Josselin's. It was on a street lined with creperies, but it was the only one that was busy. It was great! The waiter was nice (not in the American way, though) and it was a good value and delicious. I read about it on David Lebovitz's blog, but I think I saw a TA listing, too. For Paris, next year, I plan to take all my restaurant tips from DL. I love his blog and Paris tips. He also has great info on chocolate shops, though he hates Jean Paul Hevin, which is one of my favorites.

I have done the same as Michael - ask the locals. They know where the good places are. When I check in to my B&B or hotel, I ask the proprietor for a recommendation. I have never been steered wrong.

Agree with Nancy, we always ask locals and have never been steered wrong, maybe just lucky. Where we live, tiny town, there is a small restaurant that if you walk by it, would probably not go in because it has an uninviting look from the outside. We have been eating there for now fourth generation and the owners are the third generation, wonderful food. Always take grand kids there for their birthday, at their request. I digress again but we have had many great meals in places like that all over Europe.

Thanks everyone, this is great! @ Becca Thanks for the blog advice for Paris with David Lebovitz, never knew about that one. We are staying in apartments for all our locations, but I guess popping into a local hotel and inquiring would be a great idea.
Thanks so much!

Try parisbymouth.com for other ideas.

One caution to the "ask the locals" idea... you may just get the place they're most familiar with, particularly if they don't eat out very often. And no, just because you see a restaurant filled with tourists (American or otherwise), it doesn't necessarily mean the food isn't any good. More than likely, it's filled with tourists because of the location or because it's recommended in a guidebook... especially a certain Blue or Red book. Overall in Western Europe, the quality of the food is pretty consistent. One thing to avoid, though- Chinese restaurants. I've all but given up on Chinese food filtered to European tastes. It's ranged from bland to awful every time I've tried it over here. Not that American Chinese restaurants are any more "authentic", but at least the food doesn't suck. One more item to steer away from in France- andouillette. No, it's not a small andouille sausage, it's a briny cylinder of organ meat that is beyond disgusting.

Tom, you just stopped me from making a very long post about andouillette. Google "Andouillette" and check out the blog "Things That Stink". Hilarious.

Bigger cities usually have "in the knowledge" newspaper/news magazine supplements that have recent/d reviews and recommendations on dinner/eating venues. They usually work better above the not-the-place-you'd-go-everyday-if-you-lived-here line. So if a more sophisticated, though not necessarily posh or too much upscale, dining experience is your thing, you should check such supplements. By the way, TimeOut is an EXCELLENT guide where published, despite some people loathing them as "too internationally focused". But I'm a fan of international cuisine, fusion cuisine and places that reinvent local culinary with modern twists.

In my travels I have found good food in grocery store deli's. I nice to pick a selection of food or ask the store clerk for what they would eat. It's also usually pretty fresh.
But i like to people watch while i picnic.

I've had some wonderful seafood in Glasgow and Edinburgh. The Mussell Inn and Fishers in Edinburgh particularly come to mind. But I also had a wonderful meal at Stac Poly where we were served great Scottish Cuisine. Of course, in Scotland, you should have a great fry up for at least one breakfast. Just plan a very light lunch that day. In addition to seafood, beef, lamb and venison are all favorites in Scotland. Also, in the UK you should think about having a curry. There are so many great curry places. Pub food is good, but go for the traditional. Don't be tempted to have lasagna in a pub. You'll regret it. ; ) Pam

Tom - agree with you in general about Chinese restaurants in Europe, but there are exceptions, particularly in Paris and Berlin, I've eaten Chinese food there as good as any I've had in San Francisco. But I wouldn't just walk into any Chinese restaurant off the street in either of those cities, I went to specific places based on a lot of research but they didn't disappoint. (Next time you're in Berlin, go to "Aroma" in West, fantastic homemade dim sum!) But Andouilette...I have a pretty embarrassing story about that one. First trip to France, it was offered on a pizza, thought it was like "andouille" sausage from Louisana. Nope. Nope nope nope nope nope.

Now in Scotland you must try some hagis, although I don't know of any "hagis" restaurants. It has oatmeal in it, so it must healthy and lowers your cholesterol. Not nearly as disgusting as andouillette, it even smells pleasant. Only had it in factory cafeterias, but it is the national dish of Scotland. In Paris, Parisbymouth is a great source for smaller restaurants with young up-and-coming chefs that are not too expensive. "Albion" by the Poissoniere Metro stop is a super value.

I think it is a myth that hotel front desk clerks get kick-backs from restaurants. Having worked in the hotel industry, about the only thing a front desk clerk might get is an invitation to come dine in the hopes that they recommend the restaurant. How would they even control anything like a kick-back? That said, I would rather ask the person working in a store where their favorite places are, or read up to date reviews on Trip Advisor. Look for places that are in residential type neighborhoods, as they will be popular with the residents. If the food isn't any good, they go quickly out of business. Have had Haggis, but here in Frankfurt at the Robert Burns Night event. It is ok, but I wouldn't go out of my way to order again. My favorite dish in Edinburgh, was fish & chips at a beach-front restaurant in Portobello. Ok, not technically Edinburgh, but we got there quickly on a bus. Best fish I had eaten in a long time. Curry from Mother India in Ediburgh is fantastic. Make reservations. We also enjoyed Clarindas Tea Room for scones and atmosphere. Luckily in Frankfurt, we have a large Asian population and the restaurants near the Hauptbahnhof are usually full with Asian diners. They do often have a different menu though.

In Rome still dream of apple and prawn salad I was served at La Taverna degli Amici. The whole meal was pricey but worth every penny spent. I also loved the fresh pears at the small market around the corner from the apartment in the Jewish Ghetto. Please note it is impolite to grab the fruit from the stalls and walk to the counter. You ask the proprietor to them for you. Also loved a small deli found wandering down some alley. The freshest breads, cheeses and meats. Absolutely no English spoken but I was a return visitor because of the sandwiches and the charming young man who made them with those items. In Paris I always return to Chartier in the 9th Arrondissement. Crowded, loud, communal tables, good food, and for Paris inexpensive. I have a sweet tooth and must say the cupcakes devoured at the Berko bakery in the 4th arrondissement bring back smiles. In this day and age of blogs I'm a big believer in reading food blogs written about each city I'm in route to visit. Have gotten stellar suggestions for restaurants, markets, cafes and bistros by perusing them. It's how I discovered the Parisian restaurant and bakery listed above.

Sarah, was that " nope"?

Before you go off having genuine Haggis (not the stuff palmed off on the unsuspecting) you might check the ingredients, including lights and pluck.

Great: 1. Pizza: Gusto Pizza in Florence, just across the Piti Palace; Alice in Rome near the Triton statue; and a street vendor selling Margarita or Marinara in Naples across from the Archeological Museum entrance. So yummy all. 2. Seafood: Lake perch "with little fried fishies" at a restaurant on the water of Lago Trasimeno in the town of Torricella (Umbria); Mussels with linguini at several restaurants, one in Vernazza and one in Sorrento; marinated fresh anchovies at Da Emelia in Sorrento. 3. Regional cuisine: Farro soup at La Cantina at Castiglione del Lago on Lago Trasimeno; Wild boar with fettucini in Assisi; crepes in Montparnasse Not so Great: There are not too many places where I have experienced bad food. BUT, I have a little story for Paris. My friends and I were walking all over the city and it was getting close to dinner when I just could not hold off using the WC, so we found the first place we could find to take advantage of their facilities. I was just going to maybe sit down for a cocktail but my other travel mates were hungry and said let's just have dinner here. Well, it turned out to be a burger joint that also offered some typical French choices, like crepes. It was the worst crepe I have ever experienced. My instincts were right when I first walked in and saw that almost everyone was a foreign tourist and all had hamburgers on their plates. Sorry, I don't remember the name of the place. But that is a lesson; go with your instincts and insist on another choice of restaurant. Linda

Sam, interesting article, although I don't recall any odor of feces and it most certainly bore no resemblance at all to an anduille! The pissoir smell, though, that's dead-on. Speaking of notoriously awful food, I'm headed to Sweden in 10 days, and I've been charged with a mission: return with a can of surströmming. There's a €100 wager involved...

I have an honest question: why is eating on low-key establishments that residents themselves eat frequently so hyped? I'm not criticizing those who like that dining style at all, but I'm usually puzzled when I read about it. So far, I have lived in a reasonably large number of cities. What I got from all of them is that places where I (as I resident) would go for a regular lunch or snack (e.g., a "functional" meal as in 'eating at a place to get feed' instead of 'going out for a food experience/night out with a friend/partner/date/realtive') is certainly not a place I'd take a friend or relative from elsewhere to have dining as a fine gastronomic experience. When I lived in Milan(o), Italy, I was flabbergasted at tourists making lines on completely mediocre (in the sense of undistinguished, non-special, same-as-in-hundred-places-over-this-city) establishments that I later figured out to be recommended in some guide (not RS). It was not that the food there was bad in any sense, it was just regular. Locals flocked there as well, but as a place to grab a snack during a work break, not as a place a local would go on purpose or get out of the way to visit. Yet, I'm intrigued (again, not criticizing) at home some people make a huge deal of eating at "locals-go-there-for-their-regular-meals" places as part of an awesome travel experience. If I could afford, when travelling I'd mostly go to places that - patronized by tourists or not - have something distinguished about them other than "office workers flock there every afternoon". I don't mind a quick meal on a mediocre place that serves food for hurried people, but I don't think, if able to afford so, I'd trade a fine dining experience for some street joint while on vacation.

There is a huge difference from eating at a street stand, and eating at a cosy, neighborhood restaurant, serving traditional food. Sure you can go for fine dining in cities in Germany, but they probably aren't going to be serving traditional German food, and I do think many people, when traveling in Germany, want to have German food. After all, there are only so many ways you can fancy up a schitzel or asparagus and butter. Many people want a relaxed atmosphere, and one that isn't too expensive. If I go to the Netherlands, I am not going to want some Michelin starred dining experience. I want a sidewalk cafe, with some hearty, tasty Dutch food. I may even want a pizza or some Thai, but I don't want to spend a fortune on my food.

I agree that Time Out guides are generally a very reliable source of restaurant recommendations. Also, if you're travelling in France or Belgium and can read at least a little bit of French, the French-published "Routard" regional guides are probably the single best source you'll ever find for good, affordable eating. I've used them on my travels for several years and only once had a disappointing meal from their recommendation.

I think there's a difference between "where the locals go for a quick work lunch" and "where the locals go with their families on a sunday evening to while away a few hours over traditional food". Although it also depends how you define "local". A German friend who lives in Milan(o) was staying with me for the weekend, and he wanted "real good German food" so I took him to a local establishment that would make Rickniks cry tears of joy - well prepared, very authentic Swabian food, very affordable, cozy (somewhat kitschy) traditional restaurant, no menu in English (of course), no one even speaks English there. He was cracking up the whole time because it was so, well, German, and traditional, and kitschy, and uncool. (He loved the food, though!) I don't get the impression that younger people, particularly city folk, are seeking out gemutlichkeit in their dining experiences, in a city like Stuttgart you're going to find a lot of locals at a Thai restaurant or an Italian place. I think when people mean "where the locals eat" they might as well think "where the older locals eat who love traditional food"

This doesn't involve fine, leasurely dining, but I was pleasantly surprised to find excellent food at an Italian gas station along their freeway. Had the best panini ever. The wine & cheese delis there were much like what you would find at Whole Foods; Italian style.

"but I was pleasantly surprised to find excellent food at an Italian gas station along their freeway." In general, the food at rest stops in Germany, France, Belgium, Austria and Switzerland (and perhaps other countries I don't know as well) is of surprisingly good quality. Not exactly a special meal you'll cherish the memory of for years, but much better than the roadside slop you find in the US. And reasonably priced too.