Going to Venice Tomorrow!

Venice is amazing. Breathtaking. Gorgeous. You will have more than enough to explore to fill a week. I cannot for the life of me think of why someone would "hate" Venice - unless, perhaps, they'd been crammed cheek-by-jowl with sweaty, dyspeptic tourists on some dreadful tour or in some procession of tacky gift shops. RS has some cool advice for Venice. I'd read up, decide what on his list I wanted to do, then check the web for "top ten things to do in Venice" to refine your list. It is a city that is eminently wanderable. EVERYTHING is art. EVERYTHING is grandeur. And the seafood is amazing. Count yourself lucky that you will be an honorary Venician for a week. Not many among us can say that!

Thank you so much for posting! I'm looking forward to this more than ever!
I'll let you all know how it went when I get back. Ciao!

I didn't plan to visit Venice during my first trip to Italy because, like you said, you sometimes hear very negative things about it. But just before I left Italy, I decided I would kick myself if I left without seeing Venice. So I made a mad dash out, stayed in Padova because I thought Venice would be too expensive, and spent one whole day in that beautiful city. I somehow expected the "Venice part" of Venice, the part you see in movies and pictures, to be only a tiny area, despite having seen maps. I just couldn't believe that there was a whole city that was that amazing. I was, therefore, gobsmacked (in a good way:)) when I walked out of the train station and saw the Grand Canal right in front of me. I really wished that I hadn't listened to the naysayers, because it was absolutely incredible. It goes without saying that I wish I had made my decision earlier so that I could have stayed longer. I think most complaints are about the crowds, but you can venture down little side lanes and get away from them. I envy you the time to spend drinking in all the beauty, savoring the museums, churches, and most especially, the city itself. OH, and the gelato! Have a wonderful trip!!!

Lisa, I tend to be a bit "lukewarm" towards Venice, but I DO think it's a wonderful and unique city, and I certainly DON'T hate it. In my experience, it seems a bit more expensive than other locations in Italy, although I'm not sure that will be the case at this time of year. I believe you'll have a wonderful time there, as it will be much quieter now than during "peak" tourist season, so you'll have time to explore and really enjoy the character of the city. In addition to Murano and Burano, you could also take day trips to Padova or other locations. Hopefully the weather will be reasonable. Hope you have a fantastic trip! Buon Viaggio!

Lisa My wife and I go Venice as often as we can, nearly every year for a few days. We absolutely love it. The trick, as far as we are concerned, is to get away from the crowds. There are routes that most tourists walk, especially between the Rialto and S Marco, and between the station and S Marco. They look at maps, or follow their tour guide and they go on the most direct path. All you have to do is go off the main route by one or two calles and you will be in a different world. A week is a lot, but boy can you do it justice. Plan your vaporetto passes so you have the right amount of pass. They are sold in 24 hour increments so you might want two 72 hour ones. Or maybe you are walkers and can get away with bookends. They're not cheap but very helpful. In your amount of time you should not only get out into the lagoon to Murano (3, I think, vaporetto stops on Murano each with a unique bit of Murano), and Burano (go when the light is right and take an extra memory card for your camera), but also go to the very interesting island of Torchello. Really neat. Make a reservation for the Scrovengi Chapel in Padova and have a short run over there. You're only inside for 15 minutes, except in summer evenings, which is not enough, but it is a real jewel. I'm sorry you're leaving so soon or we could have given you so many more bits of advice. Will you be checking the internet while you are there? If so ask away and we help if we can. How are you deciding where to eat? Happy trails Ciao

I know plenty of people who hate it, it's not for everybody. It's raining here today, btw, so bring an umbrella.

Thank you for the replies! I'm leaving in 30 minutes, but I did read these. I'm arriving Monday late morning and on the internet it said rain on Monday, but some sun on Tuesday!
I'm very excited about this trip! I'll try to check the forum when I'm there. I'll post when I get back. Ciao!!

Visit the Peggy Guggenheim art museum if you have time; the art is not religious and can be a pleasant change from the art in the rest of Venice. A visit to the Accademia can be combined with the Guggenheim since they are in the same area of Venice. I love walking around in Venice. I've been to every section of the city and visited all the museums and most of the churches. One year I purchased a "church pass" that was good for entrance to a handful of the main churches. The experience of enjoying great art in the location for which it was created is worth the time and money. I love the piazzas, large and small, that pop up all over Venice. They are good for people-watching, picnicking, reading and resting. The larger piazzas have benches to sit on.

Swan, Do you mean the Chorus Pass? If so, it can be a very good idea for a few day stay. Lisa, I hope your flight(s) went well, and that you are able to see this when you arrive. There's a large bookstore on Salizada S. Moise, just beyond the west side of Piazza S Marco with big windows facing north - name forgotten - which has a large travel section and a fairly large English section. They stock, and I bet others do as well, a very good book to help finding good food in Venice at a decent price, and excellent commentary. The title is Venice osterie, bars, wine bars, trattirias, restaurants; a handbook for discriminating diners. It is written by Michela Scibilia, a Venetian, for Venetians, and has been also produced in an English version. From version 5.2, on page 22, also in earlier editions, I can wholeheartedly recommend ai Artisti on the Fondamenta della Toletta near San Barnaba in Dorsoduro. Their handmade ravioli is special. Large ravioli, only three I think in an order, in a simple sauce is wonderful. Loads more great places in the book. We have eaten at many over the years and never been displeased. Other than food and the major tourist places, what else would you like to see and do? You might like going up S Georgio.

Hi Lisa. I really liked Venice. I was only there for a day so when I return to Italy, Venice is definitely on the list. Visit the Accademia and Guggenheim Museum, as another poster said. Take a gondola ride and save time to wander and get lost. I bought a ceramic Carnivale mask there and it's one of my favorite souvenirs. They're fragile and a little awkward to transport but they make great gifts.

We love Venice. One of our favorite moments ... in late September a few years ago, we were standing on the Accademia bridge at sunset when a parade of gondolas came down the Grand Canal right underneath the bridge (from the direction of San Marco toward Rialto). There were accordian players and gondaliers all singing "Santa Lucia" -- it was the coolest thing to watch and listen to. There were probably about 25 of them. It might be fun to see if they do that every night, and position yourself with your camera to catch it.

Lisa, Who cannot love Venezia!!??!! Lukewarm about it?!? That's crazy talk. (Sorry Ken.) Try to catch dinner, or at least lunch, at Tratoria Da'a Marisa on Rio Cannaregio. (Locals say Dalla Marisa.) The best food we have ever eaten in Venice, and we've eaten in a bunch of places. Ate there last September for lunch, and dinner. Doesn't look like much on the outside, a little brick corner place, and the sign is miniscule, with a small handwritten chalkboard. Seats only 24 people total inside. Hard to get through on the phone as they only speak Venetian Dialect or Italian , and not much english. It was easier to walk down there and reserve a time. At lunch they will tell you what they are serving all at one time, like a schoolroom lecture. Not too expensive, and a heck of a lot cheaper than Cipriani's or Da Fiore. And not as pretentious. It's a great place! Closed Sundays, Mondays, and Wednesdays for dinner, but always open for lunch starting straight up at noon. Get there early if you want a seat in the first go-a-round.
And have a Bellini Cocktail at Harry's Bar, but watch out as they are SUPER pricey. Have one there and go pub crawling, sampling the different cicchetti. Be forceful if they try to seat you, as the prices are higher if seated. Tell them no, have a glass of wine, a couple samples, pay up, and stroll to the next one. You are going to have the time of your life.

A bit more on dalla Marisa. You're right about the Venetian dialect. In Cannaregio at Cannaregio 652b, the place is on Fondamenta San Giobbe just past the ponte dei Tre Archi. Go.

Count me as a Venice-lover. Love the art, love wandering around and getting lost, love the food. I'd love to spend a week there. Hope you love it too.