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Fly Fishing Bosnia & Herzegovina (Return Trip 3)

Budapest to Sarajevo Fishing Trip.

Tuesday
Checked-in with Air Serbia and got boarding passes.

Wednesday
Set up City Taxi on their App to pick me up at 5am on Thursday.

Pack bags. One 21 x 14 x 9 carry-on packed with clothes. 7.9kg. One 16 x 10 x 4 backpack with my fishing gear.
Very small cross body pouch for wallet, passport and watch till I get trough security.

Thursday
4:55 am City Taxi shows up.

5:20 am Taxi Arrives Airport terminal 2B. Cost 12.000 forints with tip. Always the same. I should leave 30 minutes later. But what if something goes wrong? No time for Plan B!

5:34 am cleared Security and sitting at O’Leary’s waiting for my breakfast.

6:45 am proceed through passport control. No one in line. Show passport and residency card. Go to gate for first leg, to Belgrade. Less than 5 min from breakfast to gate.

7:35 am time to board announcement for Belgrade flight. Five minutes later on bus on way to plane.

Note to self: ATR 72 aircraft boards from back. Row 2 not so good.

Carry-on fits nicely in overhead, backpack fits nice under the seat.

Seats are “cozy”.

Flight a little more than half full.
7:45 am airline ground crew begins winding up rubber bands that drive propellers.

7:50 am the scheduled 7:55 am departure flight begins taxi. Advertised flight time is 1:05.

Professional, nice flight attendant.

8:50 am arrived in Belgrade and boarded the bus. 8:55 am in the terminal 5 minutes ahead of scheduled arrival time.

Waiting on my connection to Sarajevo.

2:00 pm After a short bus ride the carry-on was tarmac checked, flight boarded and taxi begun …. 15 minutes late. 45 minute flight ahead.

Another ATR74 to Sarajevo. Never research the safety of a particular airplane before boarding it.

Arrived pretty much on time. Passport control 5 minutes.

Got 50BM from ATM for taxi. ATM clipped me 5BM. No problem.

Taxi 20 minutes. Let him clip me for 5 euro. It’s a holiday, don’t care.

Hotel is perfect location, staff excellent. Room great. “Hotel Old Town”

Hotel clerk was funny. Asked for passport, saw it was US, immediately said “you are American, so you won’t leave ut with me, so I take a picture. Every other nationality leaves it and come back in 10 min for it. But Americans are afraid. So I photograph and give back to you.”

Sitting across the street with my first wine. No credit card accepted so had to change 100euro bill next to bar. Those of you on my WhatsApp already see... while I listen to Queen, "I want to break free" (wine bar) and the Call to Prayer (Mosque) at the same time.

Friday, 1:00 pm my driver shows up on time. We begin what should have been a 3.5 hour druve to the high country. We stopped for water, for coffee, for beer. Then crossed the border into the Republika Srpska which is a bit ... i cant find the right words. The mosques fade away, the street signs turn to Cyrillic and each village flies the flag of the Republic as a vertical banner at the entrance of the village. So going in it is left to right red, blue, white (identical to the Serbian flag, except for the crest in the Serbian flag). Seen from the other side its white, blue, red (?)

My hotel is in a village in an enclave that is still in Bosnia so we crossed back into Bosnia

Aɓout 5pm we arrive at the hotel and meet my guide for the next three days, discuss start times, rivers and gear. He was amused it all fit in a backpack.

The Hotel Kraljavec is amazing, sitting on the side of a river. Worth the trip for this.

The fishing guide company set up transfers from Sarajevo and back, fishing guides and hotel. A fraction of the cost of something similar in the US.

More to BELOW …..

Posted by
1077 posts

Glad you made it--sounds exhausting. Hope the fishing is great. (Btw, in the latest edition of Fly Fisherman, my husband and I read that Cathy Beck died--we're mourning).

Posted by
4894 posts

Sarajevo is a city I was ready to leave as soon as I arrived (on my first visit last year). Stayed a week and fell in love. I was back for 5 days this year (saw your hotel) and would go again (probably will). I am slightly jealous. Have a great time!

Posted by
1450 posts

Sarajevo is on my first round of 2026 Retirement Slow Travel: Seville - Budapest - Zagreb - Sarajevo - Belgrade - Istanbul - Cappadocia - Antalya.

Enjoy.

Posted by
20458 posts

Continued from above.

Saturday. Fishing the Sana river all day. Excellent guide. Some nice fish. Returned to hotel about 6pm ate dinner (hotel has a nice restaurant) and crashed.

Sunday. Fished the Ribnik. Much more technical. Fewer catches but more appreciated. Again, returned about 6pm. Ate and crashed.

Posted by
4894 posts

Sounds like a successful trip so far!

I am pretty sure most Americans don’t know how much natural beauty Bosnia has, or how much outdoor tourism is already in place.

Posted by
20458 posts

The tension here is a lot like the tension i felt Ukraine in the months just before the war. I tend to ask questions and there are those that appreciate the West, those that blame the West for the current situation.

A nice typical 100m 2 story masonry house on a small piece of land close to a river, apparently under 50.000 euro.

Most meals at semi-tourist places under $10 with a beer.

Hooked a rainbow today, every bit of 24", probably closer to 28". Lost him on a 7x line. Landed a couple of 20" fish.

Checked in for my return flight while sitting on the river bank. TMobile has been flawless here.

Temps 50+ in the morning and 70+ as a high. I had to peal a layer im the afternoons. One river so cold couldnt feel my toes after 3 hours. Tye other to a bit more comfortable. All within 15 minutes of a village and lunch. The guide knew good places. The local food of choice is Cevapcici.

There are more high country wilderness places in the US and Canada but for the fish, this is hard to beat. For the price, even coming from the US, its less expensive than fishing the US or Canada.

Posted by
20458 posts

I am thinking in the Fall a trip with a friend. Zagreb as a base for a few days of tourism. Maybe Slovenia, then back here (almost exactly half way between Zagreb and Sarajevo), 2 days fishing, 2 days sight seeing, and there is quite a bit, then two days fishing, then two days sight seeing on the way to Sarajevo, 2 days in Sarajevo, then Istanbul for a few days on the way back to Budapest.

Posted by
4894 posts

There is quite a bit of mountain hiking, river rafting, winter skiing, and more (obviously besides fishing). You just haven’t met the right guides yet. Lol. It’s not Americans, though. Bus loads of Italians, Germans, Swiss, Chinese (again) - the reports I have heard is that they are often on a tour of the Balkans, not just Bosnia, so only stay a few days and move on. But it’s there.

Go to Dveri for dinner when you get back to Sarajevo, if you haven’t already. You’ll probably need a reservation.

My taxi driver from the airport tried to talk me into buying a place when I was there in March. A theme! Ha!

Posted by
20458 posts

Bosnia with a population of about 3 million, got about 1 milliin foriegn tourists last year. Prague 7 million, Paris 40 million. Most go to Mostar or Sarajevo. I bet Mostar the most, as day trips from Dubrovnik. Numbers are still a little below pre-COVID.

The rafting is halfway berween Sarajevo and Mostar. 1 hour from each. Dont expect anything too slick.

Credit cards arent not real real accepted here. Carry cash. The local currency is fixed at 1.95-somerhing to the Euro.

Still no Americans, no tour busses, a few tour vans. Mostly German tourists. Hotel TV was about half German language which is as common here as English. University teaches in German and Bosnian (met some architect students).

So rained on arrival day, then beautiful for 3 days, now raining again as i wait for my transfer back to Sarajevo. 2 lanes all the way. 3 hours, at least.

Posted by
20458 posts

TTM no one tried to sell me a house. I asked when we drove through this picture postcard looking village called Sanica.

3.5 hours to Sarajevo thanks to rain. Same hotel. The wine bar next to it being run by a bit of an a$$ I found another a block away to wait out the rain.

Posted by
20458 posts

While I realize that this will only be mildly interesting to the RS type whose experience in Bosnia will be the day trip from Dubrovnik, or the 2 this year that may spend the night in Bosnia or possibly the 1 fisherman in the next two years . ... I will finish the story.

4am hotel departure for a 6am flight ... 20 euro. Hotel arranged it and early morning coffee for me.

No one in Austria Air ticket counter line so I went ahead and checked my carryon. Just easier with the puddle jumper aircraft I am expecting. Still have my underseat bag with the fishing gear. Dripping a little water. And a crossbody bag only slightly lsrger than my passport that also holds 2 cell phones and my money clip. Watch strapped to thr outside so no metal and nothing in my pockets.

SJJ to Vienna. 2 hours, then Vienna to Budapest. A waste but getting from the Vienna airport to the train station is more than I want to deal with, and would probably add an hour to the trip to save $50.

Security and passport control maybe 5 minutes. But I have to do it again in Vienna as Bosnia isn't Schengen.

Departure, gate 5 out of 9 gates in the airport.

Tried to use up my Bosnian Marks at the airport coffee shop, but the place is too cheap. Going home with 40BM or about 20 euro. Save it for the next trip.

Posted by
20458 posts

The most amazing thing here has been the people. Kind, gentle, old. Sitting in an outdoor Cafe drinking beer and kefir (sort of a gross combination) with an orthodox Christian while the next table was Muslim drinking coffee and 3 tables away a Jewish couple drinking wine was a special moment as screwed up as the world is today.

Posted by
1077 posts

Thank you for your trip report and taking me to an area I've never been which is also a state of mind I've not experienced. Hope the fishing was what you wanted. I'm sure you'll be back.

Posted by
4894 posts

orthodox Christian while the next table was Muslim drinking coffee and 3 tables away a Jewish couple drinking wine

This. This is Sarajevo to me. Not in the north and not as much in Mostar. But it’s real - and special - in Sarajevo.

Posted by
20458 posts

TTM, I have seen Sarajevo being refered to as the Jerusalem of Europe.

I alluded to it way up above, but this is a "interesting" country because it is only loosely a single entity country. Outside agitators are doing their thing, so lets see how long it lasts. Sad too, really good and kind people.

To wrap this up. I got to Vienna on time. I went to a cafe in the airport to get some breakfast. The two working were too interested in each other to pay much attention or deal with someone who didnt speak German. I tried and ended up with things I hadnt ordered, or at least hadnt intended to order. I just smiled and walked away and left it on the counter. First unpleseant people in over a week, so all in all, a very, very good week.

Second cafe much better and flight left on time. Nothing special to say. Plane went up, plane came down.

Did meet a lot of Americans on that last flight. They were all goiing on a Viking cruise to ..... VIENNA (and beyond) .... too funny. What was distrubing is that they would arrive in Budapest at 11am more or less, many after 30 hours of travel, board the ship, leave Budapest in the morning. Really? What a waste of being in a good location. Does Viking book these flights cause most had 2 or 3 changes and traveled a long time.