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First Time Backpacking - Travel Advice

Hello! I'm spending three weeks in Europe in June with a friend and need some advice regarding the last two weeks of travel. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

Here is the tentative itinerary:

  • Day 1: Fly from London to Geneva. Travel by train from Geneva to Murren, Switzerland.
  • Days 2-3: Take day trips from Murren within the Bernese Oberland.
  • Day 4: Travel early from Murren to Alpnachstad and check out Mt. Pilatus, then spend the night in Lucerne.
  • Day 5: Travel from Lucerne to Cinque Terre via train (stay in a hostel in Monterosso?).
  • Days 6-8: Enjoy the Cinque Terre
  • Day 9: Fly(?) to Barcelona via Genoa/Pisa
  • Days 10-12: Hang out in Barcelona. Day trip to Montserrat
  • Day 13: Travel by the AVE to Madrid (or Fly?). Spend the night in Madrid
  • Day 14: Fly home from Madrid.

I know that's a lot, but it seems manageable. Here are some specific questions I have:

Should I buy a Swiss 4 Day Flex Pass, and then buy individual tickets within Italy and Spain? If I were to do this, the individual train tickets would include at least 1) travel from Lucerne (via Chiasso) to Monterosso, 2) Travel from Monterosso to Genoa/Pisa Airport, 3) day trip from Barcelona to Montserrat, and 4) Train from Barcelona to Madrid.

Or, should I buy a Eurail Select Pass for Switzerland, Italy, and Spain? This combination is possible, but I'm not 100% sure this will allow me to travel as I hope to in Switzerland (i.e., day trips to Schilthorn, Jungfrauroch, Pilatus, etc.) I know the Jungfrau trip is extra no matter what pass you've purchased. We will both be under 25 on the first day of travel, so Youth Passes are an option.

Also, any advice on what hostels to stay in at these locations is greatly appreciated.

What do you all think? Thanks in advance.

Posted by
32202 posts

last,

I have a few thoughts on your travel plans.....

  • Rather than fly to Geneva, do you have the option to arrive somewhere closer to Mürren (ie: Bern, Zürich)?
  • Are you clear on the route to get to Mürren once you arrive at Interlaken Ost?
  • There are no Hostels in Mürren AFAIK. In that area you can either consider the Valley Hostel in Lauterbrunnen or the Mountain Hostel in Gimmelwald. There's also an HI Hostel in Grindelwald, but it's quite a hike up the side of a mountain (nice facility though). To stay in HI Hostels, you may require an HI Hostels membership (not hard to get, you should be able to sign up online). Grindelwald is not as convenient a location for touring that area.
  • AFAIK, there are no Hostels in Monterosso. The "official" C.T. Hostel is in Manarola, there's another one in Corniglia (although that's not the best location to stay as the town is located high on a bluff), and there's also Mar-Mar Rooms in Riomaggiore that operates a 10-bed Dorm. There's also the infamous Mama Rosa Hostel in Riomaggiore, but I'm not sure I'd recommend that, as the ratings are somewhat "dismal". You might consider either a private room in Riomaggiore or look at some of the rooms in Vernazza. Monterosso has the best choice of accommodations and other tourist amenities, and also the best beaches.

Buying one of the Swiss Passes is often a good idea, but that will depend on what touring you plan to do. Do NOT buy a Pass for Italy, as they're generally not cost effective due to the cheap cost of tickets in Italy. Also, Passes do not include the compulsory seat reservations which are required on the high speed trains. Those would have to be purchased separately. Do NOT be caught without a reservation on a train where this is compulsory or you may face hefty fines, which will be collected on the spot!

It would be helpful to know whether you've travelled by train in Italy before, and whether you're familiar with train changes.

Posted by
12 posts

Hey Ken,

Thanks for the response!

  • I could most definitely fly into Basel or Zürich instead, Bern is too pricey. What would be the best itinerary to avoid backtracking, keeping in mind that I want to head south to Italy at the end? Geneva > Mürren > Luzern > Milan, OR Zurich > Luzern >Mürren > Milan (via Interlaken)?
  • To answer your other question, I am not that clear one which routes I need to take between cities yet. I've looked at the Swiss Travel System map, but I don't know the specific route names.
  • I've heard the Mountain Hostel is a good option, but staying in Gimmelwald is less desirable than Mürren. Just found that the Chalet Fontana is all booked up. I'll have to search for other budget options, but may settle on the Mountain Hostel.
  • Your advice on the hostels in the Cinque Terre is greatly appreciated, my research of the area is lacking. I'm most looking forward to Switzerland, while my traveling companion's destination of choice is the Cinque Terre (but I'm not complaining one bit). A private room does seem like a good option.

In terms of the pass, I could purchase a Youth Eurail Pass with 7 travel days covering Switzerland, Italy, and Spain for $317. Factoring in the train from Luzern to the Cinque Terre region, and the trip from Barcelona to Madrid (w/ the extra reservation fee), it seems like the best deal. My only worry is that I'll end up paying a lot of half fares in the Bernese Oberland that will add up, like the train from Interlaken to Mürren, and the side trips within the region. I wanted to fly to Cinque Terre, but the flights are more expensive than I'd hoped and if I can get the most out of a pass while traveling through the Alps... it sounds better.

I have never traveled by train in any of these countries before, and I've only visited Europe once in the past; it was a very brief stay.

Posted by
32202 posts

lastra,

Thanks for the additional info. I'll try to answer each of the points you mentioned.

  • Zürich would probably be the best location to start, as there's a rail station right at the airport, so that will provide the easiest way to get to the Berner Oberland. While that trip is also fairly short from Basel, keep in mind that it will take a short time to get from the Basel-Mulhouse airport to the train station in Basel. Which airline are you planning to use?
  • My choice for Itinerary would be Berner Oberland > Cinque Terre > Barcelona > Madrid.
  • This is the easiest route to reach Mürren: assuming you fly to Zürich, buy tickets to Mürren and specify the BLM route (they'll know what that means). Your tickets will include all modes of transport. You'll travel by train to Interlaken Ost (there may be one change in Bern), where you'll transfer to the small Berner Oberland-bahn for the short 20 minute ride to Lauterbrunnen. Be sure to note the small digital display on the side of the car to ensure that the car you're riding in goes to Lauterbrunnen (the trains sometimes split in Zweilütschinen). When you reach Lauterbrunnen, walk across the street to the Cable Car station, up the steps and board the car for the short ride to Grütschalp. From there you'll transfer to the small mountain railway (which will be waiting) for the short trip to Mürren. You'll arrive at the opposite end of town from the Schilthornbahn and it won't be a long walk to your hotel.
  • I haven't stayed at Chalet Fontana but every review I've seen of the place gives it rave reviews. Do book early though.
  • For your stay in the Cinque Terre, you'll first have to decide which of the five towns you want to stay in. Does your friend have a preference?
  • For the flight to Barcelona, I'd try to use Pisa although I haven't checked flights. You could have a look at Vueling as they're a Spanish airline and operate flights on that route (but may not have flights every day). The airport in Pisa is very easy to reach from Pisa Centrale rail station.

As I mentioned earlier, a Rail Pass is likely a good idea for Switzerland, but perhaps not so for Italy. For example on the trip from the Berner Oberland to the Cinque Terre, some of the trains you'll be using in Italy will require reservations which the Pass doesn't cover. You'd have to buy those in advance. Tickets in Italy are usually cheap if bought well in advance. Have a look at the www.captaintrain.com website. If you're only making one rail trip in Spain, I'm not sure a Pass would be good value for that. I'll leave the question on whether a Pass would be the best for your situation to the collective wisdom of the group here.

For the trip from Barcelona to Madrid, using the AVE is the method I'd suggest. You can buy tickets on the RENFE website (although it's sometimes not the most user friendly). Note that you'll have to go through airport style security to get into the departure area. Also note that you'll have to know the stations you're using. Your departure will likely be from Barcelona Sants and arrival at Madrid Puerta de Atocha. As you may know, most cities in Europe have more than one station.

I'll send you my usual "boilerplate" on using trains and other public transit in Italy via a PM.

Posted by
10 posts

I don't know about hostels but u can try couchsurfing. We used it while backpacking.

Posted by
12 posts

Ken,

Great info, thank you.

  • After your recommendation, I think we will now fly into Zürich via EasyJet from London.
  • I've contacted the Chalet Fontana in Mürren, but they were fully booked. So I've decided to take your initial recommendation and stay in Gimmelwald at the Mountain Hostel; I went ahead and reserved our time there. Seems like an awesome place.
  • Thank you for the detailed directions! That's quite helpful. Now that we're staying in Gimmelwald, it looks like the only thing that will change is taking the bus to the Gimmelwald lift once we get to Lauterbrunnen station. Is that correct?
  • I'm still working on Cinque Terre, need to do a bit more reading on the area and decide where to stay. However, I did come across a well-reviewed hostel named "5 Terre Backpackers". It's set a bit back from the coast in Corvara, but apparently they run a free shuttle to and from Monterosso in the morning and evening. Could be an option.
  • Those Vueling flights from Pisa to Barcelona are very economical. That appears to be a great option.
  • Thanks Clara, I may try to couch surf in Barcelona and Luzern. Seems like a cool experience.

I still need a little more information on the trains, hopefully someone else in the group can offer some insight in regards to the Swiss Travel Pass Flex Youth + single trip tickets in Italy and Spain VS Eurail Youth Pass encompassing Switzerland, Italy, and Spain. Perhaps, with the added cost of the reservation fees, the Eurail isn't worth it?

Just to add a little more information, these are the trips I plan to take by train (not accounting for spontaneous decisions while I'm there):

  • Switzerland
  • Train from Zürich into Lauterbrunnen, then Gimmewald.
  • Day trip to the Schilthorn (maybe Jungfrauroch if the budget allows).
  • Train from Lauterbrunnen to Luzern, touring Mt. Pilatus on the way.
  • Morning train to Chiasso (going to Monterosso same day)
  • Italy
  • Chiasso to Milan, Milan to Monterosso
  • Monterosso to Pisa Airport
  • Spain
  • Day trip to Montserrat
  • AVE train to Madrid
Posted by
16893 posts

None of these passes will restrict your travels, but none of them will fully cover your travels, either.

The Italian train tickets are too cheap to have much effect on this equation (Monterosso-Pisa about $15), so the main benefit of the Select pass would be using it on the expensive Barcelona-Madrid train. Rather than 7 days for $318, you could consider 6 days for $289 (purchase before April 29 for the extra-day offer).

In your original question/itinerary, it looked like you'd be traveling in Switzerland over 5 days, but the latest itinerary looks like you might have cut it to 4 days. If so, then the Swiss Travel Pass for 4 consecutive days at $223 would be a very convenient option. If a Swiss pass or half-fare card is your choice, then try to reserve the Barcelona-Madrid train ticket a month or two ahead for a discount.

Find ticket prices around the B.O. at http://www.jungfrau.ch/en/tourism/travel-information/tickets-rates/interlaken-ost/fares-for-individual-travellers/.

Posted by
12 posts

Thanks for all the helpful advice!

I think I'm going to purchase the 4 day Swiss Flex Pass and then individual tickets in Italy and Spain. I'm going to spend 5 days and 4 nights in Switzerland, taking one day to just hike around Gimmelwald and not use the pass. I'd use it 1) on the journey to Gimmelwald , 2) around Gimmelwald (Schilthorn), 3) from Gimmelwald up to Mt. Pilatus then down to Luzern, then 4) from Luzern to Chiasso where I would catch the Italian train to Monterosso. Does this sound reasonable?

Any other advice on taking trains in Italy? Particularly the route from Chiasso to Milan then on to Monterosso.

If anyone can recommend a good, budget friendly hostel in Luzern for one night that would be helpful.

Posted by
7175 posts

I think Zurich is a better gateway for you, and Madrid needs more time or I wouldn't bother with the effort.

Day 1: Fly from London to Zurich. Travel by train to Luzern (2 nights)
Days 2: Alpnachstad and check out Mt. Pilatus
Day 3: Travel early from Luzern to Murren (3 nights)
Days 4-5: Take day trips from Murren within the Bernese Oberland.
Days 6: Travel from Murren to Cinque Terre (3 nights) via train (stay in a hostel in Monterosso?).
Days 7-8: Enjoy the Cinque Terre
Day 9: Fly from Pisa to Barcelona (3 nights)
Day 10-11: Barcelona
Days 12: Train to Madrid (2 nights)
Day 13: Madrid
Day 14: Fly home from Madrid

Posted by
32202 posts

The only Hostel I know of in Lucerne is the HI Hostel. As I may have mentioned earlier, it will be more "budget friendly" if you have a membership. Here's the link.....

https://www.hihostels.com/hostels/lucerne-youth-hostel#hostel-tabs

Have you used easyJet before? If not, be sure to read their Terms & Conditions, especially related to luggage. If you choose the cheapest seats, they only allow ONE carry-on item per passenger, and that is usually strictly enforced.

Posted by
12 posts

Thanks everybody, much appreciated.

I haven't flown EasyJet, but from what I've read it seems that my Osprey Farpoint 55 backpack should make it past the gate if I pack the day pack inside the main compartment. Not sure about Ryanair, though.