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European Whirlwind tour in January

Hello all,
Thanks in advance for your advice.
After quite a bit of thought and consideration, I am accompanying a first time traveler friend to Europe in January. I have traveled there numerous times, however- not lately for some of our destinations. She wants to cover many cities, feeling she won’t be back again any time soon. I understand this travel philosophy- this was me 20 years ago and I travelled this way happily. Today I take my time and don’t spend so much time in transit but enjoying the places much more slowly. Big change here! We will be doing a whirlwind trip.
I have scheduled all of our travel- planes and trains. No automobiles. I hope we won’t end up like John Candy and Steve Martin in that classic film! I have pre booked museum tickets ( so excited we will be able to see the LAST DAY of the Lucien Freud exhibit at the National Gallery in London), food tour, Cotswold tour, Musee d’ Orsay, night tours, cichetti in Venice, etc, etc, etc…. lots of fun times while leaving a bit of wander time. Did anyone ever visit the Milkman coffee shop in Edinburgh? That’s on our list. Plus lots more!

So- with that long winded intro- we are going to Venice, Paris, London, the Cotswolds, and Edinburgh in January. We will be spending 2 full days in each. Yes I know it’s crazy. Yes I know it’s not recommended, but after arguing a better schedule with her, I’m shaving 20 years off my age and going to be a fly by the seat of my pants traveler. I’m looking forward to our adventure and crazy fun times. My travel philosophy here is “you only live once” I have advised her the absolute negatives of this whirlwind trip but want to ask your advice as to focusing on the positive. The nice thing about travelling to Europe in January is I have found some excellent prices as compared to travelling in September- my usual travel month to Europe. We are 2 creative spirited ladies that are trying to be relatively budget minded but taking advantage of January prices as I’ve found. Sorry I can’t be more specific than that.. open to suggestions.
I do have a couple of questions if anyone can advise- thank you!
1. Travelling to Venice from the local airport in January. We are staying at Hotel Novecento which is a bit off the beaten path, even on the island! It looks incredible and wow so special! economical in January. How is the public boat transport from the airport in January? Any tips? Public or private water taxi. We are on the cheap but I’m allowing for a few “splurges” when necessary. I’ve been to Venice many times but wondering about cold January transportation to and from the airport. Any tips appreciated.
2. Staying in Les Marais district in Paris which I’ve never stayed in. Any favorites here? We will walk along the Seine to sites, but if anyone has a classic meal or experience, looking for tips. Our budget is flexible.
3. We are going on “teacup tour” in Cotswolds. Any feedback on that. It sounds incredible.
4. Edinburgh. Never been? Staying in Hotel du Vin. Doing a ghost tour because sounds like fun, touristy and cheesy incredible. Any recommends welcome
5. We are travelling Eurostar Paris to London in January, I do not think the strike will affect it. Thoughts?
6. LNER train London to Edinburgh end of January. Any further strike issues?
7. Any overall thoughts or tips on travelling to Europe in January? Weather, etc.
happy travels,
Lisa

Posted by
6113 posts

I have been to Venice in January - we took the regular bus service from the airport which was quick and efficient. We found that many restaurants were closed and the walks weren’t running, but there were no queues for the major attractions.

Personally, I wouldn’t head to the Cotswolds in January. Cold, muddy and no colour in the gardens. So far this winter, we have had more snow than we saw in the entire winter last year. We were cut off for several days a fortnight ago due to six + inches of snow and ice. People in nearby villages still haven’t had their water supply restored due to burst water mains. Be prepared for plans to change. The weather is usually worse mid January to mid February than before Christmas. Sorry, I have never heard of Teacup Tours.

Hotel du Vin are a small chain of upmarket hotels. I have been to Edinburgh dozens of times but never heard of the Milkman Cafe. I enjoyed the trip around the former royal yacht Britannia and a tour of the Parliament building.

The pre Christmas strikes on Eurostar were called off, but could be reintroduced - unions have to give 14 days notice of any strike action, so it’s too early to say what the situation will be at the end of January. Same for LNER.

Posted by
1072 posts

I have been to Edinburgh in January - take thermal underwear. The Royal Mile, castle and camera obscura are great. It will get dark very early so don't expect an evening stroll. Never heard of the milkman coffee shop.

My sister and niece loved Venice over new year in 2020 and spent lots of time on the vaporettos. They just rode around on boats all the time as they managed to be in Venice when the acqua alta peaked in December 2020 and walking was a bit difficult. They both loved it, especially Torcello for the peacefulness and great church.

Posted by
8312 posts

We were in Venice this past June. I think it was about my 10th time there. We came in by train and left on the bus to the airport. Last time we flew out, we took a regular taxi to the airport. Vaporetto's have gotten too expensive--7.50 Euros each trip. My 11 year old granddaughter and I just walked the city.

We were once in Venice the end of January. Wooden sidewalks had been erected all over St. Marks Square and waves were lapping over the lagoon's seawalls. We were simply miserable it was so cold and windy.

England and Scotland can be pretty wet during January. But Edinburgh's temperatures average 35 degrees F. and 45 degrees for lows/highs. As far as they are north, it's obvious that the water keeps temperatures as "warm" as they are. But count on days being very short and nights very long.

The 4th ARR. in Paris is just across the river from Notre Dame, and it's a great place to be. Just ask your hotel what's the best restaurant for what you want to eat. (We're not into French food.)

As far as railroad labor problems in France and the U.K., you'll need to look online for any schedules.

My tips for travel are to only travel with one carry on rolling bag per person and pack as light as possible. And be sure to take flashlights with you that time of year. Wear a heavy raincoat and layer up underneath it.

You'll probably need another vacation upon your return home.

Posted by
33719 posts

Very good of you to accompany a first timer, and to go at what speed she thinks she would like to go at.

My two centimes...

Travelling to Venice from the local airport in January. We are staying at Hotel Novecento which is a bit off the beaten path, even on the island! It looks incredible and wow so special! economical in January. How is the public boat transport from the airport in January? Any tips? Public or private water taxi. We are on the cheap but I’m allowing for a few “splurges” when necessary. I’ve been to Venice many times but wondering about cold January transportation to and from the airport. Any tips appreciated.

1 - I don't know that hotel. I do know that several years ago I read a book (can't at the moment remember the title) by a woman who lived in an old palazzo near Fondamente Nove close to San Zanipolo hospital - I'll never forget how cold she found it in January and when she went into churches to warm up it was even colder. So be prepared. Still my favourite city.

Staying in Les Marais district in Paris which I’ve never stayed in. Any favorites here? We will walk along the Seine to sites, but if anyone has a classic meal or experience, looking for tips. Our budget is flexible.

2 - I can't help here - I've never stayed in the Marais, we stay a bit further out. Especially if the weather turns a good place to wander is the various covered Passages.

We are going on “teacup tour” in Cotswolds. Any feedback on that. It sounds incredible.

3 - January isn't much of a good time for exploring the Cotswolds. If weather is bad and cold be aware of black ice and frost on the narrow roads. The honey coloured stone from which many buildings are built looks best in sunshine, of which there is precious little in January. In the middle of winter I have found weather is usually either cold and clear or warm and wet.

I have never heard of teacup tour....but I'm not a tourist.

Edinburgh. Never been? Staying in Hotel du Vin. Doing a ghost tour because sounds like fun, touristy and cheesy incredible. Any recommends welcome

4 - As Jennifer says, Hotel du Vin is a national chain of upmarket smallish, boutiqueish hotels. Out of my price bracket so no personal experience. It has been 20 years since I've visited Edinburgh so no further advice there...

We are travelling Eurostar Paris to London in January, I do not think the strike will affect it. Thoughts?

5 - No way to tell this far out. Keep checking their website for updates, and keep an eye on postings in the England Forum about upcoming strikes - there are dozens of strikes across the economy at the moment and I don't expect it to improve in the short term. Strikes must be advised in the UK 14 days before, there can be strikes in France too, and I don't follow those.

LNER train London to Edinburgh end of January. Any further strike issues?

6 - See the answer just above in number 5.

Any overall thoughts or tips on travelling to Europe in January? Weather, etc.

7 - see above

Happy holidays to you too, and I hope your whirlwind works out well for your first time traveller friend.

Expect bad weather and delays and plan accordingly - if you don't get them collect bonus plans for travelling off season and saving money.

Posted by
27903 posts

Layers, waterproof shoes, and either a waterproof hat or a rain-proof coat with a hood. I'd consider the option of buying a full-size umbrella upon arrival if the weather forecast is generally wet. I'd hate to have to carry that around, but I really value the umbrella I use at home, which I think is called a "bubble umbrella". (Check Amazon to see what I'm referring to.) The farther down the umbrella extends, the more protection you'll have against wind-driven rain; I find that type of umbrella makes a huge difference as compared to the typical small folding umbrella I travel with.

Vaporetto tickets are now 9.50 euros each, which is indeed exorbitant. A 48-hour pass costs 35 euros; a 72-hour pass, 45 euros. Depending on how much you think you'll ride (which might depend partly on how lucky you are with the weather), one of those passes might save you money.

You're hitting Venice during low season, I think, but I don't know whether that guarantees you'll be able to walk right into San Marco. In September there was a long (30-minute) line stretching around one side of the square, and there was no cover. Even a considerably shorter wait could be unpleasant if the weather is inclement. You can buy a timed entry ticket online in advance. I don't know how early you'd need to do that in January; it's possible one day ahead or even early on the morning of your planned visit would be OK, but I can't guarantee that. The Guggenheim and the Doge's Place are two other sights where buying a ticket ahead of time rather than just showing up might be smart.

If the weather in London is OK, you might consider taking the nighttime Jack the Ripper Tour offered by London Walks if you don't plan to go to the theatre in the evening.

Posted by
330 posts

Thank you, everyone! There is indeed quite a bit of valuable advice here that I have taken note.
Thoughts about the weather- yes this factor was one of my major deterrents when considering whether or not to go. With that said, I live in northeast OH which is extremely cold and snowy in the winter. As I type this, it’s 17 degrees F with a few inches of snow on the ground. I love the snowy winter as long as I dress appropriately. So will be bringing lots of layers. My cuddle duds (thermal undies) and thick socks a must. And a waterproof tent-like windbreaker to wear if necessary over my wool coat. Challenge is -we are both just travelling with carry on luggage so good planning and packing cubes a must. Planning on rewearing clothes with a laundry opportunity mid trip. But I’d also like to bring a pair of waterproof booties as an extra pair of shoes. Problem is they do take up 1/5 of my suitcase… so will wait closer to the date and check the weather. If we do get heavy rains, I know they will be much appreciated so I will probably bite the bullet and bring them.
Thanks for all advice! The transportation tips and packing tips so helpful. I have been in Venice just this past September, so looking forward to smaller crowds. But im a little questioning the best transport from airport to Venice island. Someone mentioned bus…. You mean vaporetto (water bus) correct? I will research this but really don’t remember a bus that goes to the island, unless it’s a bus by the train station? Sorry I’m a little confused on this point… but thanks for all the tips on Venice transport. Thanks for the train strikes advice as well!
I really am excited about seeing some of these cities with some snow, if we are lucky enough for that to occur. The Eiffel Tower in the snow! Wow.
The Cotswold advice too I appreciate but I think we will stick with the pre arranged tour. I subscribe to a Cotswold page on Instagram and the lately snowy scenes are so fantastic. Sorry to hear about the weather related problems, though! But I will temper my expectations a bit with your well received advice, and realize it may be a bit dreary and muddy! But maybe a quick pop into Lucy’s tea room (one of our stops) will warm us up!
Last- love the idea of the bubble umbrella. I did explore on Amazon and it looks perfect. I love that it is clear so you can still SEE everything. But it definitely won’t fit in my carry on so I will look for one while in Europe.
Thank you thank you everyone for taking the time to answer my questions!

Posted by
2021 posts

Just going to add that Europe gets dark earlier in January than most of America. By 4pm, it's dark-so plan accordingly. It can also get cold. In November one year we went from London to Paris and found Paris at least 5 degrees colder than London with a gripping wind.

If you guys are still of working age, plan some days off after vacation because you will be tired. My sister did a high school tour like this and she slept for two days after coming home. It was also hard to acclimate and appreciate each city but different strokes/different folks.

Posted by
330 posts

Thanks so much for this tip- I actually did not realize it gets dark even earlier than in the US, however that makes sense. It will help with our planning. More indoor activities in the early evenings will probably be a wise idea.
Yes, I agree, a little “time off” at the conclusion of the trip is a great idea. Whirlwind busy trips, while fun, are exhausting by the end. Coupled with the inevitable jet lag. With the length of this particular trip we are taking, we will probably just be adjusting to the time difference when it is time to return back to the U.S.!

Posted by
33719 posts

adding to the time of darkness issue - also remember that the UK is a whole time zone west of the rest of western Europe. When it is noon in London it is 1pm in Paris, etc.

Today, just a week before January, an hour north of London in the East of England dawn was at 8:12 and sunset was at 3:55 pm.

Posted by
17330 posts

We stayed at the Edinburgh Hotel du Vin a few years back and really liked it. Quirky, in a good way.

Posted by
665 posts

Hi Lisa,
Before my suggestions below, just wanted to observe that back in the day when I played in a rock band, our final pair of original songs were 'Whirlwind Traveler' plus 'Lonely Planet'. I wrote both, in my capacity as a sorta 'George Harrison' secondary songwriter!

Anyway, one worthy splurge would be to take a water taxi into Venice. In my opinion, its rarefied quality is worth the cost.
As for tea tours in Chipping Campden, maybe check out Badgers Hall or the splurge Cotswold House? The Howard Arms in Ilmington does a wicked tea, plus much more. Paxford's inn was apparently a local fave til its recent fire. Maybe the winter dreariness could be part of the charm, yeah?

Le Marais is a costly place to base. We once stayed there, then ended up in debtor's prison. Now we treat it more as just a fantastic place to stroll. As for eating, dunno, maybe look into 'Le Loir dans le Theiere' (doormouse in the teapot). You'll also see the lineups at the Jewish bagel places. The Bourdain-endorsed 'Robert & Louise' was hugely disappointing.

Perhaps some days spent apart by design would serve you well? Before I met my wife, my friend and I used to visit Manhattan. He later lauded the way that we'd sometimes spend half-days apart pursuing our separate interests. That strategy worked a charm.

Bon Chance Lisa!
* you'll be missing Burrows in the playoffs but...

I am done. The whirlwind.

Posted by
27903 posts

The buses suggested for transportation from the Venice airport to the city are indeed ordinary buses. I believe they terminate at Piazzale Roma, the large parking lot near the train station. I haven't taken a bus or a boat between the airport and the city, so I have no personal experience with either. What I've read on this forum from many people (there is not total agreement on this point) is that the Alilaguna boats usually don't provide a scenic ride. You're cooped up indoors, and in most cases are sitting very low. The windows are likely to be dirty and/or salt-encrusted.

Upon arrival at Piazzale Roma, you'd need to get a vaporetto down the Grand Canal to the Giglio (Santa Maria del Giglio) stop. The walk will be a bit longer than it appears at first glance, because you have to cross two bridges that are located farther from the canal than the hotel is.

Posted by
5293 posts

Wow! What a trip!

My daughter spent 5 months in Edinburgh when she studied abroad back in 2016.

She compiled a couple of lists (for a friend) of her favorite places to visit, and favorite places to eat, which you can find on this recent post

Enjoy your trip!

Posted by
330 posts

Happy holidays!
Thank you so much to everyone that replied here. You have given me so many ideas and things to think about. I feel I’m a seasoned traveler to Europe, however winter travel is a game changer for someone that usually travels May- October. So interesting to plan this January trip! And I want it to be special for my first time U.S. based travel friend who was the original person that wanted to try this trip!
Ok first- thank you Priscilla, Aussie, Jennifer, Greg and ACraven, and Lola for the latest tips and contributions. Nigel and Jennifer and Heather - thanks! I can’t look back on posters while writing this unfortunately but anyone else that contributed I really want to thank you. Know you are making a difference in someone’s precious travel which we all appreciate so so much. Thanks!
Now- Gregg- your post was quite funny, helpful and also quite perfect as my dream job to be a rock star haha - so I loved your advice and funny stuff! Thanks so much about tea time advice. Happy travels to you, sir!
Everyone- thanks for all of the Venice transport advice. I’m sorting it all out- but you all have given me some opportunities I was not aware of.
Lola- happy about your thoughts about hotel DuVin.
Nigel- you are a wealth of information and I thank you! I do love your post about the Alphabet travels, too!
Heather- yes we are both working age so a little down time after the trip sounds great. And I think your tips about the early sundown were so helpful.
Priscilla- your link was so helpful!
Thanks everyone so much. I feel I’m in the stage where things are getting together and solidified. Thanks so much for your time.

Posted by
966 posts

Hi Lisa, Well bless you for doing this trip with your friend. Someone suggested some alone time, 1/2 days apart to do your own thing would be very wise. As Jennifer suggests, Cotswolds will be a drab & possibly hard to navigate in January, had you thought about substituting Oxford? Gorgeous, easy to walk, I recommend The Parsonage for high tea. There's a bus from Heathrow, so it should be easy to add to your itinerary.

I would strongly suggest getting together with your girlfriend to do a trial run-through of being all packed & ready to go. I just don't see a first time visitor packing light enough for this much moving around. I think I saw somewhere you wanted to take an extra pair of waterproof booties - how about just take waterproof walking shoes instead?

Posted by
6713 posts

You can learn more here about getting from the airport into Venice. There are two bus lines, ACTV and ATVO, to Piazzale Roma, the parking lot that's the only place vehicles can go in Venice itself. From there a vaporetto (water bus) will take you as close to your hotel as possible, then it's by foot. At the airport, you may be able to combine the bus ticket with a 48- or 72-hour vaporetto pass for a small discount. This is by far the most economical way to get into and around Venice (aside from walking within Venice).

You mentioned the booties to help keep your feet dry and how much packing space they take. Maybe you could wear them on the flights and otherwise in transit, so they wouldn't need to be packed. Could be awkward and/or uncomfortable, but wet cold feet are worse.

I'd love to read a trip report on this excellent adventure when you get back and thaw out. Sounds like a blast. You know the pace doesn't make sense but if you're good enough friends you'll have a wonderful time.

Posted by
330 posts

Thanks so much for more great replies!
I do LOVE the idea of testing out our packing prior! There is a town close by here that has cobblestone streets. I think I’m going to suggest a packing list we send each other of what we are planning on bringing in our carryon suitcase and small size day bag, and actually pack and haul our suitcases over and walk all around the local town cobblestone streets pre-trip! I imagine we will both be slimming down our packed articles! And that will eliminate frustration when racing to catch trains etc! Love it! Especially when it’s cold and rainy/snowy/icy.
I did like the idea about spending maybe half day apart, we will play that one by ear. We did each get separate rooms in each hotel/B and B so hoping that alone down time will be good. But I’m not adverse to going off and doing our own thing if the other person doesn’t want to join the activity one is thinking of. My travel partner is all in on that idea. She’s very easygoing and we have many similar interests. But it doesn’t hurt to put the thought out there ahead of time!
Also- thanks so much for the additional Venice transport from airport to hotel on island ideas. When I arrived in Venice in the past, I usually would take the Venice public Vaporetto (alilaguna). As others have mentioned, what a grand way to enter Venice! Also I have taken note of the comments about not being able to see much from inside the boat in the winter, this was exactly the type of advice I was seeking. HOWEVER I have researched the link (and others) the nice gentlemen posted and have figured out which line (arancia- orange) and how to get to our stop. Which stop is prior so we pay attention and get close to the exit point. Our hotel was great to post on their website exactly which stop to exit, and very detailed instructions on how to reach the hotel from the stop. Between the two of us, I’m hoping we will figure it out! And what a magical way to begin this European trip- taking a boat to winter island destination!

I love the Oxford idea… but I think we are going to stick with the Cotswold tour. It’s a private tour given by a local that drives you to different villages and sites according to your interests. We will take a train from London to designated train stop- an hour 10 minute train ride, and she will pick us up. We have already booked it. We will be prepared for perhaps rainy muddy weather. I have to say again… I follow some Cotswold sites on Instagram and the winter pictures, while very different from summer pictures, are quite atmospheric and lovely in their own way. Maybe will just have to return again some summer to see the summer season in the Cotswolds!
I will take notes daily and try to put a trip report together. Even a short one with highlights! I know I love the trip report feature on this website and have got so many good take aways, as well as things to dream about!

If I did miss replying to any specific advice, please know it’s all very helpful to me! When writing a response now I can’t review all past posts so tend to be a bit forgetful even if I loved the ideas!
Happy travels and Happy 2023, all!
Lisa

Posted by
330 posts

Just want to add here too- Flashlights! David mentioned this and I never would have even thought of this. A couple of posters mentioned how dark it gets early. We will for sure bring small flashlights. Great advice, thank you!

Posted by
687 posts

Paris - I like 6th and 10th myself. I have stayed Le Marais and visited other times, and I don't think it's that special.

Cotswolds - I visited on a bus tour and it's not very desirable for a quick trip because it's not easy to get to, and non-centralized from what I could tell.

Edinburgh is a nice town with a nice vibe - but even in summer pretty cool.

I have done a number of trips where I get a rail pass and travel daily. If you travel ultra light, you can even go to one city in the morning, have lunch, and hit your new city afternoon to check in, and see 2 cities a day. It works best if they cities are 30-90 minutes apart,

This works especially good for France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and Spain - which is not your main plan.

From Paris you can get to Lyon or Strasbourg in 2 hours. From Strasbourg I think you can get to Munich in 4 hours then 90 minutes to Salzburg, Austria and 2 hours to Vienna. Thats got a lot more bang for the buck than English countryside in my humble opinion.

Posted by
10104 posts

I don't know what the other shoes you are planning on wearing are, but do not go to Europe in January without waterproof footwear.

Posted by
2154 posts

Hi Lisa, I hope you have a great time with your friend! Looking forward to a trip report when you return.

Posted by
33719 posts

so lisa g are you on the trip now? If so I'd be excited to know how its going and where you're up to!!

Posted by
330 posts

Thank you everyone for the additional advice! So excited to go… counting down the days!
Nigel- haven’t left yet- our trip is the end of January/beginning of Feb.

So so Excited!!

Posted by
665 posts

Just wanna laud everyone above for offering our Lisa advice in a civilized manner. On some other sites, one occasionally sees snark or blatant one-upsmanship. There's even one poster who fancies themself as God's gift to travel advice. Whenever their suggestions don't seem to be accepted to the letter, they respond with caps plus multiple exclamation marks.

So Lisa, YOU BETTER HAVE A GREAT TIME aaaah!!!!!!
(sound of something large collapsing into pieces down the hall)

I am done. The end.

Posted by
5293 posts

Hi Lisa,
Just wanted to wish you and your friend a safe and wonderful trip!

Looking forward to reading about your adventures upon your return!

Posted by
330 posts

Hello everyone that responded- thank you!
We are leaving the US on Tuesday for our whirlwind trip! So excited. Thanks for all of your advice!