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European cuisines primed for reinvention

From time to time, major European gourmet cuisines go through cycles of reinventing and reinterpreting vernacular dishes, while updating and framing new tastes. That is how, for instance, glamorous and kind of over-the-top French gourmet cuisine got a breath of fresh air in the early 2000s, getting rid of some of its heavy meals that would feature in any restaurant claiming high-level chef credence.

In more recent years, it was the Portuguese cuisine that went through that cycle, which was also well overdue (as in: prime Portuguese restaurants hadn't really changed menu/presentations/food statements in a long time). Now, Portuguese cuisine has been renovated as a culinary entity, more experimental, it talks better with the occasional modern outside influence... It doesn't feel stuck in time anymore, at least for the time being.

What are good candidates for this process nowadays? Which cuisines are stale at their top level, in your opinion?

I'm leaving aside fusion and post-modern gastronomical offers because their links to old receipts is weak or intentionally non-existent (think chefs using liquid nitrogen).

Posted by
7053 posts

There's always pushback from some quarters when something "traditional" is reinvented or just plain reconstituted to something different. Having said that, German dishes could use some work because they're falling out of favor here in the US among younger generations (and they're just too heavy). And I would add Polish pierogi (although I've seen more experimentation with pierogi than German dishes).

Posted by
12313 posts

Anything with a lot of carbs. Virtually all traditional Irish food is stuffed with carbs. Shepard's Pie might be a good place to start.

Posted by
33735 posts

Perhaps FEBO's menu could do with a little updating?

Is it a cuisine? Some regulars would say so. It is certainly European - or at least from one European country.

Posted by
2829 posts

I think a distinction between aspirational cuisine and street or vernacular nondescript food is in place. FEBO is ot what I'd call haute cuisine, and never intended to be (but there are high quality versions of bitterbal or satekroket... Foodhalen has such a venue for chef-quality snacks).

Posted by
1673 posts

Leave fish, chips and mushy peas out of the equation. Same goes for runny eggs, bacon and beans, accompanied by bread fried in bacon fat. Bacon fat in the beans goes without saying.

Before attacking European cuisine, let's start in our own backyard, with the great North American delicacy of chicken wings. I suggest swankier establishments replace them with gourmet yellow-rumped warbler wings, a Roquefort dip and one spring carrot on the side.

Posted by
11744 posts

Travelers expect traditional cuisine then complain when it is messed with. Maybe reduced portion sizes in the lands-of-large-portions would be a place to start.

The comments on German cuisine made me reflect on a stay in Munich last year. One traditional German dinner and one traditional German lunch and we were ready for something that did not involve potatoes or pork! Luckily Munich has many choices and we settled on Lebanese which was outstanding.

In Italy, I could eat Italian every day, but the variety is such that it is never the same twice. OTOH, there is very little non-Italian food in Italy. "Ethnic" food is from another region of Italy, not another country.

Swiss cuisine (at least in the more rural areas we tend to visit) could use some updating: more vegetable, less cheese and potatoes. I can only eat Rosti once in a two week trip, kind of like fish & chips. Is that a sacrilege?

I like some of the gastropubs in the U.K. as they do have some unique options yet ties to the traditional.

Posted by
27929 posts

Czech vegetables need an intervention. All too often your choice is potatoes or potatoes. On rare occasions you'll find your plate graced with red cabbage and green cabbage--both of which I like, but that's just odd.