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Eating in Europe: Picnic vs. Restaurant

Warning: it’s another “versus” thread that may inflame strong emotions amongst “some people”. Discretion advised.

When traveling, eventually we get tired of eating out every night — finding a restaurant, the time it takes to eat, the expense, the loud people whooping it up, and the inevitable cigarette smoke. To counter this, I present to you “the picnic”.

At the start of a trip our ritual is for us to visit a supermarket to buy a knife, a bottle opener and a shopping bag. We’ve had the France knife, the Spain Knife, etc etc. The knife is left behind at our last hotel, however the France knife was mistakenly packed away and carried home. (ooops) We have a good collection of Euro shopping bags for street cred at the local supermarket.

During the day I will passively scope out a scenic place to eat dinner. Some examples: a nice city park, cliffs above an ocean, the bench with a view accessible from the hiking trail from the village, the wall along the beach watching the sunset, somewhere along the river in the city. You would be hard pressed to find a restaurant with these views.

For food it can be a simple salad we put together in supermarket containers, fresh bread, local and regional cheese, cold cuts or something unusual from the deli, pizza from the bakery, fish cakes (Portugal), ham or Pâté sandwiches from the bakery (France), pastries or some cookies that aren’t available in the USA. Our “official cookie of France” are the Prince Chocolate Biscuits (LU/Mondelez).

In my view, being able to have some wine or beer outside “wherever” without being arrested is one of the best things about being in Europe. Also, in general the wine is relatively CHEAP. “Seven euros for that bottle”? Is it any good? No idea, tastes good to me though.

Anyone else ever opt for the picnic vs eating in a restaurant and if so, what is your approach?

Posted by
3008 posts

We often just get food at a grocery store or a street stall and eat on a oark bench.

I did a bicycle tour in France years ago. The company had previously run gourmet tours in France. The wife of the couple was a food editor at a fairly big newspaper. The first five nights’ dinners were eaten at very nice restaurants ( some were the only choice as the hotels were isolated ) and one Michelin 1 star. The last night there was nothing planned and everyone was glad to be on their own to just get some food - I found a rotisserie chicken - and not take two hours for the meal.

The tour operators found cycling customers much more pleasant to deal with than the gourmets

Posted by
1228 posts

Sorry if this derails this thread very early on, but where are you finding cigarette smoke in restaurants in Europe? Over the past decade the only place I can think of where I've seen smoking indoors has been North Macedonia.

Posted by
5200 posts

Just going into a grocery store in another country is a sightseeing adventure.

Posted by
82 posts

Sorry if this derails this thread very early on, but where are you finding cigarette smoke in restaurants in Europe? Over the past decade the only place I can think of where I've seen smoking indoors has been North Macedonia.

Sitting at outside restaurant tables, which we prefer to do in the warmer months when we typically travel. We may be outdoors, but the smoke can still blow over towards you. I don't like it obviously, but I'd rather sit outside and deal with the potential smoke than be indoors.

Posted by
503 posts

At the start of a trip our ritual is for us to visit a supermarket to buy a knife, a bottle opener and a shopping bag.

Our knife and bottle opener - both bought many years ago on trips in Europe - have returned home with us and then back to Europe again many times over the years. We check our luggage, so they just make the trip in the cargo hold, but are there when we need them.

Supermarkets and picnics are part of every trip to Europe (or elsewhere). We DON'T get tired of restaurants, but we also are often on the go, so a picnic often fits the schedule better than a full on meal at a restaurant.

And, as mentioned by others, supermarkets abroad are a blast and worth visits simply to wander the aisles and look for fun "discoveries".

Since our vacations and itineraries vary a lot, there is no "rule" but I can't remember a time when a local grocery and a picnic weren't part of our vacation.

Also, with say 21 meals, and probably a dozen or more "snack breaks" on a one week vacation, it's pretty easy to imagine most folks break things up with a mix of picnics, restaurants, and cafes over that period.

Posted by
11496 posts

I don't think picnics are anything new to most travelers. All of us have gathered up bread and wine and cheese and whatever other good-tasting foods we choose and sat out in the open eating it. 😊

My favorite picnic was at Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris back in 1999, when my daughter and I brought a bottle of wine and some bread, cheese and cured meats to the cemetery. There's something about sitting among the graves that whets the appetite.

Posted by
5645 posts

We really enjoy eating in restaurants in Europe as they are quite a welcome change from most restaurants here at home. We do, however, also enjoy a picnic at least one on just about every trip. There isn't a set approach per se, we just "go with the flow". If a picnic seems in order, we simply pop in a variety of shops, pick out what looks good, and head to a nearby park or scenic spot. Never had a problem with the shops not being able to supply plastic utensils, corkscrews, napkins and such. Wish we were there having a picnic now.

Posted by
82 posts

Waiting in line at a grocery store in Geneva there was some co-motion ahead of us involving payment that was taking a really long time to resolve. The older gentleman in front of me was visibly annoyed, and when he looked back at me I said in French, Mais qu'est-ce que c'est que ça ? (What in the world is this?)

For the record I don't speak French besides a few words here and there, but learned this phrase from a French language learning podcast (Coffee break French). It was described to me as a something someone might say, for example when entering a disheveled room and wondering what happened to it. I have no idea if this is accurate or actually a common saying.

He clearly understood what I said and went off about the situation for about three minutes until the line started moving. No idea what he was saying to me, so I just shook my head in agreement. That's my grocery store adventure story.

Posted by
5676 posts

but where are you finding cigarette smoke in restaurants in Europe

Twice last year in France the smoke from outside wafted inside because the restaurants left the front door open. On one occasion it was one of the waiters, smoking directly in front of the open door with a breeze blowing the smoke inside.

As for picnics, I'm not much for sitting on the ground or a park bench eating with my hands. I much prefer a table and cutlery. I'll save my outdoor eating for gelato.

Posted by
82 posts

As for picnics, I'm not much for sitting on the ground or a park bench eating with my hands. I much prefer a table and cutlery. I'll save my outdoor eating for gelato.

We actually have plastic spoons and forks, so we’re not complete animals.

Posted by
267 posts

We sometimes do lunch picnics when we’re driving. We always hope that they don’t turn into “old faht” picnics. Old faht picnics are eaten in the car watching the rain come down. They are named after the picnics that my Maine grandparents used take rain or shine. Now that I am one, the name is more appropriate.

Posted by
9601 posts

I just dont like to eat every meal in a restaurant either - too much food. I like to save the plastic (or wood) utensils from my airline meal to use later on. That means I dont have to buy any, and no security issues.

Posted by
3824 posts

As a solo traveler, dining alone is often not as much fun as it is for you coupled folks. I've been picnicking in outdoor and indoor spaces for the better part of 25 years of solo travel, not sure why this would be a controversial topic. Grocery stores are a cultural experience and definitely help stretch the budget when necessary.

BTW, there are some places that picnicking in public spaces is frowned upon or even forbidden. This prior conversation covers it: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/general-europe/picnicking-drinking-in-public

Posted by
11496 posts

I have to add this. I've been thinking about it ever since this thread opened. I don't know if anyone has read "The Historian" by Elizabeth Kostova, which is a wonderful novel involving Dracula, but there is one section where the narrator, a young teenage girl, who is traveling through France with her father in the early 1970s, discussed some of their picnics. The language is beautiful, and every time I think of a picnic, I think of this.

At farms along the road we stopped to buy picnics better than any restaurant could have made for us: boxes of new strawberries that gave off a red glow in the sun and seemed to need no washing; cylinders of goat cheese weighty as barbells and encrusted with a rough gray mold, as if they’d been rolled across a cellar floor. My father drank dark red wine, unlabeled and costing only centimes, which he recorked after each meal, carrying with it a small glass wrapped carefully in a napkin. For dessert we ravaged whole loaves of newly baked bread from the last town, inserting squares of dark chocolate into them. My stomach ached with pleasure and my father said ruefully that he’d have to diet again when we returned to our ordinary lives.

Posted by
634 posts

We especially like eating lunch on a train. I always bring a plastic knife/fork/spoon/napkin set in case we need it. And in Switzerland, we always bring home one of a certain knife with the two points at the end for picking up cheese. It's a nice feeling seeing all the knives at home.

Posted by
9249 posts

I don't think it is a "versus" thing, but a matter of options.

Picnics are fine, we rarely eat an evening meal as a picnic, though if we are in an apartment with a balcony, we often make a light meal there.

Picnics for us are more for leisurely days, an event rather than just a quick break. Supermarkets can be great, but I more enjoy the cheese shop, the butcher, a bakery, or an open market for assembling a meal.

We do usually carry a small insulated bag, that doubles for packing, to use. I have an all plastic corkscrew/bottle opener that survives carry-on security, then we usually keep the airline silverware on the way over, pick up whatever else we need.

being able to have some wine or beer outside “wherever” without being arrested

Though do be careful with that, some cities do have restrictions near monuments, churches, and other locales. Plus many Europeans would see it as a faux pas to wander around drinking, or drink in inappropriate places. With a picnic, in a place for picnics, sure; but don't try to set up a spread on the Spanish Steps or one of the fountains in Rome, for example.

Posted by
16841 posts

I added a plastic bag to my picnic "kit" several years ago when I realized that sometimes benches/chairs in Paris are either wet from a recent rain or covered in bird poo. I've got some heavy plastic bags from a long-ago Trader Joes Christmas event but I think the current one is a shopping bag from the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam. I actually wash it in the hotel several days before I head home as I'm never sure if there are traces of bird poo that should not be brought away.

Posted by
82 posts

Though do be careful with that, some cities do have restrictions near monuments, churches, and other locales. Plus many Europeans would see it as a faux pas to wander around drinking, or drink in inappropriate places. With a picnic, in a place for picnics, sure; but don't try to set up a spread on the Spanish Steps or one of the fountains in Rome, for example

You mean to tell me I can’t sit down in the middle of the Lourve and eat my lunch????

And agree, walking around drinking out of a bottle of wine is not a good look, either here or in Europe.

Posted by
16841 posts

"You mean to tell me I can’t sit down in the middle of the Lourve and eat my lunch????"

I know your comment is meant as a joke but the Louvre does allow food in the mezzanine area under the Pyramid so you'll often see families breaking out sack lunches there. To me, it technically IS the middle of the Louvre since all the wings branch off from there.

I'm off to have more coffee, hahahaha because I clearly have not had enough today to allow my sense of humor to surface, hahaha!!

Posted by
4077 posts

I travel solo most of the time and even after all these years I’m still not brave enough to go out after dark and eat in a restaurant.
I’m not a “foodie” and don’t have big appetite.
I’ll eat lunch in a restaurant, or buy a delicious sandwich especially in Italy or France.
Then in the evenings I’m tired from being out all day for hours, so will have yogurt and fruit in a hotel room, or make a salad and cheese in a rental apartment.
Last trip to Paris, my first hotel for 4 nights had no fridge, so my yogurt kept cold out on the window ledge in the cold rain!
We used to do that as students in Scotland in the dark ages…..

Posted by
25721 posts

Public drinking here is not legal in most parts (if not all) parts of town. It is rarely enforced and if you arent flaunting it i suspect no one will care.

Posted by
2068 posts

SJ,

I travel solo most of the time and even after all these years I’m still not brave enough to go out after dark and eat in a restaurant.

That breaks my heart!

I do a combination of eating out and having picnics, both outside and in my room. No need for it to be an either/or situation.

Posted by
881 posts

I like the OP's idea of purposefully assembling food treats and scoping out a selected location to make the experience feel special. This is not quite the same as grabbing something "to go" and eating it wherever to save time or money -- which is what I often do, especially for lunch.

Questions: (1) What kinds of places do you choose for picnic dinner when it is already dark by the time you will eat? (2) On the topic of knives, has anyone tried the collapsible durable nylon/plastic knives that you can supposedly take on flights in carry-on luggage?

Posted by
1302 posts

One nice thing about aparthotels is having a kitchenette, 'cause I really do enjoy checking out grocery stores when traveling and then going back and cooking. I do enjoy getting lunch at museum cafes and taking that out for a picnic.

I do not enjoy as much having every single meal out in a different restaurant. When I find restaurants that I like, I find myself gravitating to the same couple just for the feeling of familiarity.

Posted by
25721 posts

SJ consider this a dinner invitation. Of course you will have to come to Budapest. What i will recommend is only part about the food, but about the culture and the people and maybe the music.

Posted by
1069 posts

I do this all the time. Especially lunch as I don't typically want or need a big lunch and I choose to avoid fast food chains. Urban groceries in Europe are generally full of food you can take and eat. Most have a wooden cutlery available, especially if they have a dedicated to go section. In addition to grocers, most good butcher shop have take-out foods, some even have a window that opens to the street.

I pack a set of plastic cutlery in my toiletry bag as a back up to what the grocer may have and I pack a reusable grocery bag. And, since this is Rick's forum, I make the bag do double duty for carrying my coat, hat and gloves once I am inside an airport and on the plane.