Updated Driving itinerary: Germany/France/Switzerland/Italy/Austria

Aosta is in Italy. It is doable. A few important considerations.

1. Get an International Drivers Permit, not expensive and easy to get at AAA.

2. You must buy and attach a Swiss vignette when you cross at the border. 40 CHF available at the customs station, or from gas stations either side of the border.

3. Same deal when you enter Austria, except they are available in 10-day versions for less money, and there is no customs station so get at a gas station. Cost is 11.50 EUR.

4. Driving in Strasbourg is only allowed if you have a French low-emissions sticker, which a German car won't have, so park outside of town and use public transportation. Someone just posted that they would park in Kehl, Germany and take the tram from there. There may be other cities like that, but i do not know offhand. A research item for you.

5. Beware of ZTL's in Italy.

6. Speed limits are often enforced with automatic radar traps. You don't know you get a ticket until your credit card gets dinged for 50 EUR or so from the rental company and that is just for the trouble of telling the police what your home address is so they can send you the actual speeding ticket.

7. Munich is not a fun town to be driving a car. Again, you might want to park outside the city.

That is all I can think of.

Some basics for driving in Europe:

• Ensure that rental car contract allows to drive into these countries with the car.
• Ensure that the car has the necessary basics for the countries, e. g. Autobahn vignette for Austria - or that you organize / buy it
• Ensure you have driving permission for these countries; not only your country driving license (example Germany) - if you do not have this, e. g. by IDP you can end up without insurance coverage in case of accident
• Be aware of restrictions regarding environmental zones in cities, e. g. green window sticker in Germany
• Tip: download EasyPark app
• Care for a good navigation (not oh-oh maps), e. g. Sygic Navigation app which allows navigation without mobile connection - or rent a car with included GPS navigation
• Care for mobile connection, e. g. by a SIM / eSIM that works in all these countries (roaming)
• Have a good translation app available: DeepL recommended
• Winter tyres shall be no issue at this time - but have that in mind if you approach areas with snow / ice possible
• Be aware that driving in and around cities such as Munich and Frankfurt can become very stressy - esp. Frankfurt drivers are known for not being patient with other drivers

For Bavarian part consider driving German Alpine Road.

Happy planning and have a good journey. And please write and share a report with your impressions, experiences and lessons learned to help the next traveller.

Wow Sam…a million thanks for your quick reply. I really appreciate you sharing your wisdom.

I will update on my post that I have an International License (yay! I do have experience driving abroad but only in countries where I wasn’t intimidated).

Also yes, I have been warned about the Swiss vignette. So that is on my list.

WOW!!! I am most thankful for your post on German cars in France. How do the Germans drive in France? Or do they not? I will now modify my trip. Probably do Freiburg, Germany.

Regarding ZTL: another reason why I was hesitating to drive. This does make me nervous.

And the tickets…I think I will be the slow driver when in town. But you never know I may be driving 30 thinking I’m not speeding then realize it’s 20. That would be my luck.

Also yes, you’re right. Thank you for reminding me not to lodge in Munich due to the car. I will modify to another city.

Again a million thanks!!!
Nova

How do the Germans drive in France?

Here is a website with a map showing environmental zones in Germany and other countries.
https://www.environmentalbadge.com/validity-of-environmental-badges/

Sam…amazing. Not many people seem to mention these important details on their driving blogs. They seem to make their driving journeys quite carefree.

This link you sent was essential. I hope others will benefit when reading this thread.

I hope my rental car is filled with every sticker possible. Hehe.

Thank you again for your time.

Nova

Since you have a car, you might consider staying outside of Innsbruck in the alps. We stay in the Stubital just south of Innsbruck. We stay in Neustift im Stubital at http://www.haus-wally.at/, but there are several villages in the Stubital valley. It is very beautiful. If you decide to go there, choose a place that includes the Stubai Super Card:

https://www.stubai.at/en/accommodations/stubai-super-card/

It allows you to ride the cable cars for free and offers other benefits as well. Their visitor website is still focused on winter, but that should change in the next month. Winter is their busiest season. There are definitely tourists there in the summer, but it is not overrun and we have never had long lines to do anything. It is about 30 minutes south of Innsbruck, so you could make a day trip into the city.

I have visited Innsbruck and stayed at Hall in Tirol once. I have been to Stubai three times and am going back this September. (about the time you would be there actually).

The drive through the Great St. Bernard Pass is beautiful. I also really enjoyed the drive from Lake Como to Stubai passing through St Moritz. Unfortunately, it doesn't fit in to your schedule, since you are going to the Dolomites. (Which is another area I love)

Hi Connie!! I’m also from WA. Thank you for your tip on Innsbruck. Yes, I am all for nearby towns/inns. Since I have a car I am willing to explore outside the main cities. I always love to find a recommended nice place to stay. Thank you I will look up your link.

So appreciate the community forum for suggestions.

Safe travels Connie!
Nova

You are welcome.

FYI: The Stubai Summer Card includes a train that runs from the valley into Innsbruck. I am not sure how often it runs in summer, but it looks like it goes hourly in the winter.

I hope my rental car is filled with every sticker possible. Hehe.

I'm afraid that that is unlikely.

It will have the required stickers for the country in which it is registered.

Park outside the zones in other countries and take a tram or train or bus in.

I drive my personal (English) car around various countries, and I have a colourful windscreen.

Some countries now do online stickerless registration, such as Belgian cities, and Austria. Only problem with Austria's online vignette is that if purchased online due to Austrian law, the vignette isn't live for 14 days which doesn't make it any easier. But if you buy it in person at a filling station it can be valid immediately.

It is a bit of a minefield. And you are right, none of those glossy videos mention it.

Greetings Nigel,

Thank you for commenting. I will have to watch more videos on the rules and regulations of traveling with a rental car in those countries. Ha…I was joking about the possibility of my windshield being covered with all the stickers needed. Hehe. It’s a bit of research to stay on top of each countries regulations.

I have to ask why do you want to drive this distance? You don't sound thrilled about it. I've driven in all these countries, and also in Naples & Rome, so no I"m not a timid driver, but usually taking the train is so much simpler. At least consider dropping the first few nights - You don't need a car in Frankfurt or Freiburg.

1n Frankfurt, Germany
3n Freiburg, Germany
3n Lucerne, Switzerland

Frankly you could easily travel as far at Lucerne by train, then switch to a car if you really want to drive over alpine passes, but the Swiss buses are incredible. Nor do you need a car from Innsbruck onward. I know there are large drop-off fees in other countries, so you'd have to re-jig the route to start & end in one country, but I would suggest it will be worth it. Train travel is so much more relaxing!!

Have you already purchased your airline tickets? If not, you might be better served flying to Munich. The circle you're going to be making is larger than you might anticipate. For example, from Salzburg to Frankfurt is about 335 miles and backtracking gets expensive. I'm not a fan of Frankfurt airport and one American airline after a fiasco connection from Israel last year.

I've been to Switzerland a couple of times and along the France/Swiss/German border. I find it easier and cheaper to stay out of Switzerland and reserve my mountain time for Austria and Northern Italy. The Alps are The Alps whether in SZ or AU.

If you're going to be in Cortina, I suggest you go east and up to Lientz, Austria. Just north of there is the Grossglockner High Alpine Highway that ends at Zell-am-See, Austria. It's the most beautiful place I've ever seen

We used to take 2 weeks and 3 weekends and drive as far and fast as we could. But $9 per U.S. gallon gasoline in Italy cured me of traveling that way. We now travel slower and we see so much more. We like to stay out in the countryside for 4-5 days doing day trips by rent a car. Then we move to a different area for another 4-5 days. Now we reserve places we couldn't get to for the next trip.

Just two suggestions.

By Innsbruck we’ve stayed at the Gasthof Badl in Hall in Tirol on 5 trips. Free parking, easy on/off highway (no noise) to Innsbruck (10 or so minutes away), right on the Inn river, gorgeous views of the Alps, wonderful restaurant and the most pleasant, helpful owners and staff.

www.badl.at

Instead of staying in Cortina I’d suggest the Val Gardena. Any of the three places (Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva) are fine, as they’re pretty close to one another. We stayed in St. Christina at the Garni Ariston

www.garniariston.com

Right by the Val Gardena are some of the most spectacular drives anywhere (and free, no tolls). The Gardena Pass (my favorite), Sella, Pordoi, Campolongo passes. Plenty of lifts, cable car trips also.

https://www.valgardena.it/en/holidays-dolomites/dolomites-experiences/detail/burning-dolomites/

https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/gardena-pass/

https://www.val-gardena.com/en/dolomites/sella-pass/

Greetings Sandanisco,

Thank you for taking the time to comment & make suggestions. I am 100% on your side regarding train travel through Europe.

I should have inserted synopsis detials that would have explained why I chose a road trip.

1. Co-traveler is older & high maintenance. Hehe. *req. overnight stay in landing city & departing night. *req. 3n most cities if possible. He accompanied me on my last 2 Asia trips where we had lots of inner country flights & he was not happy with that. Hehe. So he preferred a scenic road trip this year. So I have to comply.

   1. I know I’m gonna get stuck driving 99% of the time & that’s why I expressed anxiety.
      (I had already planned out my whole itinerary w/trains/corresponding cities, but then had to modify for a driving trip. Sad note: I specifically chose Switzerland just to do the trains. Hehe). P.S. I’m an excellent driver, I’m just worried google maps may not be as friendly there & I’ll have trouble with road signs. Also I’m not gonna lie…not looking forward to the gas prices.
      

We have both been to Europe (including Germany, Italy & Switzerland) before but never a road trip.

1. Train vs car: convenience factor. He doesn’t like toting luggage from train to lodging. Even though we are both experienced travelers & only travel with a carry on. *the largest allowed. I do laundry every 3 days so it works out.
   

You mentioned Lucerne…I had to modify the itinerary. I’m trying to do 3-4 hrs per city. Freiburg (lodging in Triberg) to Lucerne is an easy 2 &1/2 hr drive. However Lucerne to Aosta would have been a 4+h drive. So I opted for Rigglenberg to replace Lucerne so the drive to Aosta would be shorter. *please tell me if that’s not a good idea. Or is you have a better suggestion.

1. You mentioned perhaps I should rent the car later in another city. But then that defeats the scenic road trip. Also I didn’t want the high fees of different city/country drop off rates.

Thanks again for your kindness,
Nova

Greetings David,

Thank you kindly for your comments!!!

Unfortunately, my tickets are purchased. Trust me I wish I could have started farther south in Munich but the ticket prices were double. *using miles & $

Due to my work schedule I preplan my vacation dates for the whole year & buy my tickets in Jan.

Trust me I can’t wait to retire so I don’t have to do this.

Yes…Switzerland lodging is quite $$$ & some accommodations are not that appealing. I was quite surprised by the lack of 9+ reviews on booking.com. Some places have quality ambience but most are minimal in design/lack quality breakfast options.

Originally my trip was revolving around Switzerland & the train routes. But as you may have read…it’s turned into a scenic
road trip by car.

Thank you kindly about your suggestion on Lientz. I’ll go research that & see if I’m able to modify my route. If I have logistic questions on that route I may possibly message you.

Regarding Salzburg to Frankfurt…there is a halfway city I’m lodging for 2 nights before arriving back to Frankfurt. I haven’t quite nailed which city it will be. Open to suggestions PLEASE.

A million thanks,
Nova

Greetings Paul,

Thank you your all your links!!! I’m still an amateur forum member. I don’t know how to do the fancy links & copying quotes etc….hehe. I’m always impressed by people like you.

I’m gonna have to magnify my map to zone in on my Innsbruck itinerary. I will definitely see if your suggestion will work. I’ve booked in the city of Innsbruck, but preferred to find a more charming place outside of Innsbruck. It’s thanks to veteran travelers like you that are far more helpful than booking.com or Airbnb.

I also need to study the map of the Dolomites. Every article/blog said to stay near Cortina if it was my 1st time. So. I was kind of afraid to explore. Your comments have inspired me to bravely lodge elsewhere. I’ll look into your links.

I absolutely love this forum. Your wisdom is greatly appreciated.

Nova

I think the Val Gardena is the best place for a first time visiting the Dolomites. Ortisei, St. Christina and Selva. These are 10 minutes from one another, making any of the three a good place to base. Ortisei is the largest with a small “old town pedestrian zone”, plenty of restaurants, shops and cable cars and lifts. Yet any of the three makes a good base as I mentioned.

Hall in Tirol. The old town pedestrian zone is extremely charming and feels more “authentic” than Innsbruck, which I also love. Meaning it’s not geared to the tourist crowd. Love walking in Hall in the evening in the quiet cobblestone old town pedestrian zone.

The Gasthof Badl. I can’t think of a nicer place to stay just about anywhere. From the location to the views to the room,s and staff, not to mention the included buffet breakfast and very nice and reasonable restaurant. It’s why we’ve spent a nearly 20 nights there over the course of 5 trips.

Paul

I've been thinking about your train to driving change because of your travel partner.

All of his concerns are valid and it seems that you have decided that your only choice is to drive all those miles.

Trains are relaxing and faster, driving isn't, so I worry that trying to convert such a long journey into driving, with you doing all the driving is really biting off more than can be dealt with.

Have you considered telling him that the trip has to be shrunk?

Perhaps there are hidden factors driving your itenarary but the route involves a lot of inefficient routes, and some attractions are not high priority- while you blow past better attractions.

First thing is to plot this out in Google maps or travel road app. Then try alternatives to increase efficiency. It’s not always obvious from looking at a map since road speeds vary.

Aosta, as many have noted, is in Italy between Chamonix France and Torino Italy. They have remains of a Roman wall but otherwise not that exciting.

More generally there are 4-5 passes through the alps. The Dolomites are way over by Brenner pass.

I would suggest you could simplify this trip and see better places with some research.,

Again I am not sure of your goals but here is an example what you could do without consulting a map
Frankfurt / Mainz
strasbourg / Colmar
Basel
Lucerne
Innsbruck
Bolzano
Dolomites
Graz
Salzburg
Munich
Nuremberg
Bsmburg
Frankfurt

Evening Paul,

I bow to thank you for your suggestions. I took all 3. I’m so glad I did!!!! It really does make itinerary run smoother. Not to mention I like the newer accommodations you have suggested.

I did change my mid-way city from Varenna to Dolomites. (it was Padova, until someone told me that’s not even en-route hehe)
So now it’s Trento or Rovereto. *feel free to shout out if that’s a good choice?

I know people are saying just drive all the way through…but if you have ever driven with a Co-pilot that needs wine at the 3-4 hr mark you would understand why we need a mid-way stop. Hehe.

Again thank you for your wonderful suggestions!!
Nova

Evening Nigel,

Thank you for your concern.

This trip was my idea.

Main objective: Bernina Express & Glacier Express were on my bucket list. And my itinerary originally revolved around riding the trains in Switzerland to see all the beautiful towns/alps.

Hehe. So now Switzerland has shrunk on my itinerary to an accommodate the other cities.

I have accepted the road trip & the reason why my itinerary doesn’t look pretty is bc I’m trying to see the Italian alps while I’m already there seeing the Swiss alps. I know there is a lot of wasted time driving in Germany to & from Frankfurt but that was my mistake buying round trip tickets from there.

Perhaps I should cut out Varenna? I’ve been to Italy before but missed Como so I thought I would squeeze that on route. Is this a big mistake?

I would love a second opinion.

Nova

A big thank you to RailRider…

Yes thank you for your honesty. It’s a horrible itinerary. Not sure if you saw my explanation before how it was a train route originally. *main objective before was to do the Swiss Rail. Bernina Express & Glacier Express.

Interests: Swiss Alps, Lake Como (Varenna), Dolomites

Those were my main objectives. I foolishly purchased round trip tickets from Frankfurt bc of my miles I need to get rid of. The deal was too good to switch to Munich or any other starting point.

The Great St. Bernard Pass is what made me lodge at Ringgenberg to Aosta.

I figured if I have a car I should do a great scenic route.

But please I’m all ears if you all think I should omit this route. Yes, Aosta wasn’t planned… but it was too long to drive into Varenna from
Aosta where the route ended. So I had to pencil 2 nights there. I’m willing to edit Aosta to 1 night. Also willing to scratch it off my list if you all agree I should. Hehe. Then I just need to know how I should navigate from Switzerland to Varenna?

That’s so funny you mentioned Strasbourg. That was my 2nd city after Frankfurt (train) but someone told me that you can’t take a German rental car there bc it lacks the French emissions sticker. So that became too complicated so I changed to Triberg near Freiburg. As my 2nd city.

I also chose Lucerne as my 3rd city originally (train) but then bc of the car it was too long to make it to Aosta for the pass drive. So I had to navigate to Interlaken area.

Yes Varenna and Dolomites make my map look crazy but I’m already out there so I would like to check it off. But I’m willing to drop the Great St. Bernard pass drive if you think that’s not a wise choice.

I would have to then reroute from Switzerland to Italy.

I’m going to Innsbruck (Hall in Tirol) & Salzburg so
I’m glad I’ve check off many of your recommended cities.

You’re like a great book editor. Thank you for your input. I greatly need good advice.

I appreciate you mentioning Google Maps layout. I’ve never done it. I just use it to look up the distance from hotel to hotel but I’m gonna have to learn how to create an actual map of my itinerary. Thanks for your inspiration!!! I’ll have to watch some videos.

Nova

yes, you do need the Crit'Air for Strasbourg. But there are peripheral car parks and trams - it just takes planning where you can leave the car. Or even one of the beautiful nearby villages and bus.

There is always a plan B.

I would take nights away from Innsbruck and spend a little more time in the Dolomites. There is a lot to see, and mountains demand time.

My standard disclaimer: I don't dislike Innsbruck, but it is bigger and more industrial than most people imagine, and located in a broad valley with middling views for the Alps. I would far rather go to a smaller place (which doesn't have to be tiny - Innsbruck is pretty big).

Cortina or Brixen for 4 nights, plan sometimes on using the car to drive to jumping off points for mountain stuff. From there you have a short drive through Lienz and then drive over the world famous Grossglockner pass (Brenner Pass, to Innsbruck, is probably the least impressive or interesting way that I've ever crossed the Alps). From there you are straight down to Zell Am See, a big alpine village on a very pretty lake for two nights, or any number of other pretty places nearby.

Take a look on a map, it's a pretty good route :)

For the Dolomites, the Val Gardena suggestion above is a good one as well. With a car you could stay around Seis too. In general, in the dolomites there are lots of neat places to stay off the beaten path if you have your own wheels.

We did a somewhat similar trip last summer, in reverse, driving a full size 8-seater van. Our itinerary: Munich (1 night), Santa Cristina Val Gardena (2 nights), Venice (3 nights), Stresa (2 nights), Wengen (5 nights), Colmar (4 nights), Bacharach (2 nights). Flew out of Frankfurt in the early afternoon.

We stayed at La Tambra in Santa Cristina and LOVED it. Had the best steak and pizza of our lives there. Took the Col Raiser lift. Drove to Ortesei and went to Seceda and Seiser Alm. All the views are completely different and stunning.

We absolutely adored Stresa. Stayed at Hotel du Parc and it was dreamy. Definitely take the ferry out to the islands. We wished we had another night there.

I don’t recommend Interlaken. If you can stay in the mountains, you won’t regret it. The views are so worth it. Check out Chalet Gerbera in Wengen.

We chose Colmar to avoid the Crit Air requirement. Loved it. Drove to many of the surrounding areas. Loved the area so much that we returned for the Christmas markets, this time staying in Strasbourg.

We’ve stayed along the Rhine three times now, and love Boppard as a base. Just over an hour from Frankfurt.

The driving will be pretty easy to all of these areas. Be sure to get the vignettes. We ended up on the freeway in Austria unexpectedly (after a side trip to Mittenwald). We exited as soon as possible to get the vignette, but not before they caught us on camera without it. Hefty 300€ fine eight months later. You will need vignettes for Austria and Switzerland.