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Departing from the usual path…

That proverbial path is well-and-truly beaten but many of us have some memorable places perhaps others might veer off to see and experience, if you are willing to share.

For my part, Abruzzo stands out. Thanks to an Italian friend’s recommendation to visit his home region, we had a long weekend in Abruzzo. First we stayed in Santo Stefano di Sassanio at the Albergo Diffuso https://www.sextantio.it/santostefano/abruzzo/, a remarkable place. Santo Stefano di Sassanio was virtually abandoned in the 20th century but the project of creating the albergo diffuso preserved it. Diffuso comes from the particular arrangement of the lodging, throughout the village in old houses. Our was a two-story, two-room place with stone staircase, gentle lighting to mimic candlelight, rustic furnishings yet elegantly comfortable with completely modern bath. It was so rustic I am certain OSHA would not allow it to be occupied. ;-) On or way to our next stop, we climbed to the ruins of Rocco Calascio which you might remember from the movie “Lady Hawk.”

We moved on the Castelli, Abruzzo, renowned for its ceramics and ceramics museum and school. We met artisans who showed us around and stayed in a darling B&B. Almost no English spoken at the time we were there, a few years ago. Nearby we visited Campo Imperatore and several beautiful untouristed towns. Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga is easily visited and a bit wild.

Abruzzo has its own amazing cuisine that is seldom available elsewhere, even in Italy. A car is required, but our experience was uncrowded roads even in June. Shoot! Now I wanna go back!

What are your off-piste favorites?

Posted by
17330 posts

Nice report, Laurel. Thank you!

We booked a week of walking in Abruzzo with HF Holidays for this September, but they canceled it for lack of participants. So we are going to Lago Maggiore with them instead, with a week in Switzerland beforehand.

I then planned an independent trip to Molise, Abruzzo, Le Marche, and San Marino for next April, with flights and lodging all booked. But our friends at Mountain Hiking Holidays, a small Portland with whom we hiked in the Dolomites in 2022, announced a new Dolomites trip to the Brenta Dolomites for JUne 2025. We couldn’t
resist that, and we couldn’t do both, so we canceled Abruzzo etc.

We’ll get there someday. . . .

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437 posts

In 2014 we spent several days in the small Ticino village of Sonogno population of about 90.
I had seen photos of it back in the 80s in a hiking guide book.
The photos of the unique stone buildings and stunning scenery stuck with me.
We initially booked one night at the only hotel in the village.
The bus trip and a short wander about convinced us to change that to 4 nights. Just that amazing feeling you get when you find THAT place.
The hotel keeper seemed the only other person who spoke English.
Each day was spent hiking averaging about 20 kms a day. Spectacular river, forest and alpine scenery and gorgeous villages (and villagers) and buildings.
Everybody is different but this place was just perfect for us. Maybe too small, too quiet for most.

Isle of Raasay is another lesser known gem we loved.
I was hiking up to the Old Man of Storr on Skye and stopped to help a volunteer path repairer. A bit of chatting about hiking and he pointed out a peak on an island in the distance. It was Dun Caan on the Isle of Raasay.
A couple of days later we were driving our little van onto the ferry from Skye to Raasay.
I had a feeling it was a good decision when a pod of dolphins escorted the ferry for some distance.
There was only 2 others on the ferry.

We had the hike up Dun Caan all to ourselves. It offers just the most amazing of views and fauna experiences.
A spectacular drive along the hand built Calum's Road, a fascinating castle ruin and a mix of ancient and more modern history made for a fun and fascinating stay.
We slept in our van by an old abandoned steel works on the edge of a forest. Our view from that spot were of the Cuillins of Skye, million dollar views.
Handily Raasay House offered showers for 2 quid a pop.

Posted by
11739 posts

It is hard to resist that Dolomites siren-call, Lola. I don’t blame you for heeding it.

Eatsrootsandleaves, we will hike near Sonogno in October. I am so looking forward to visiting Locarno at last, after having it on the list for a few years. I suspect it is a bit more visited these days as everywhere seems to be, but we are hopeful the lateness in the season will result in slightly less crowding than I have read about.

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17330 posts

We will spend 2 nights in Locarno on our way to Lago di Garda next month. I have been departing whether we should spend the day visiting the nearby Isola di Brissago or take the Postbus up the Valle Verzasca to Sonogno. I think the report from Oz has resolved that question for me.

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437 posts

Lola the bus ride was good fun on it's own. It is a bit of a tight squeeze in a few spots, mirrors and buildings occassionally kiss.

Posted by
620 posts

Kyrgyzstan is a less common destination (becoming more common). Same with the Faroes. Not totally off the grid or anything, but definitely less common destinations. We have a few in the pipeline as well.