christmas in Rome

I'm a grad student who's been living in Italy for the past two years. I have been coming home for Christmas, but am planning on staying out there this year for the experience, per the recommendation of some dear friends. Not much will be open during that time, to be sure, but I've heard that there are a lot of festivals. I would would recommend going to Saint Peter's for Christmas Mass (the crowds will be ridiculous), but Christmas Mass at Mary Major or Santa Maria in Trastevere will likely be lovely (either one of those, or Mass in Assisi).

Go with the expectation that it will be a cultural and religious experience, and enjoy!

sorry, I meant to say that I would NOT recommend going to St. Peter's (in case that wasn't clear through my typo).

Also, in terms of food, I'd recommend that, a couple days before Christmas, going to a supermarket and stocking up on cheese and bread and what not for sandwiches. Although I haven't been there for Christmas, knowing holidays, a lot WILL be closed.

Our Christmas experience in Rome was, admittedly, a long time ago (1984); and some things may have changed. However, this is what we found. Much is closed on the 25th and 26th, but some restaurants are open. I would scope out, in advance, some places to eat. One of the churches - - maybe Sta Maria in Aracoeli - - has a visit from a group of Abruzzi pipers during the Midnight Mass. If it's still happening, that might be the church to attend. I think you need to get tickets for Midnight Mass at St. Peter's, if that's where you want to go. Since so much art is in churches, and they are usually open, you could easily occupy the 26th that way. I'd check guidebooks and websites so as not to waste time with the ones that are closed.

We were in Rome over Christmas about 4 years ago. Since Rome is an open air museum with endless sights to see, we spent the 25th and 26th walking around, peeking into every unlocked church we could find. We didn't know that the 26th was a major religious holiday and were thrilled to see the Pope speak from his little window when we were visiting St.Peters. There were many, many restaurants open on Christmas day. The year we were there, it was so warm that many restaurants were serving outdoors, most not even needing to use heaters.

hi Carolyn,

Im in the process of planning a trip to Rome over Christmas as well. I will be traveling alone. Want to meet up and do some sightseeing?