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Central European Road Trip

Hello! For our 20th wedding anniversary, my husband and I have planned a road trip through Czech Republic and Austria and I was hoping to get some feedback on our itinerary from anyone who has done anything similar. We are flying in and out of Prague with our full actual vacation days spent as follows:
Sept 3: Arrive in Prague (late night flight)
Sept 4 - 7: Prague (4 full days)
Sept 8 - 10: Rent a car and drive from Prague to Cesky Krumlov via Hluboka nad Vltavou. Spend the afternoon and one full day in Cesky Krumlov.
Sept 10-11: Check out of hotel in Cesky Krumlov and drive to Hallstatt, Austria. Spend the afternoon and the next morning in Hallstatt. Leave in the afternoon when crowds get too crazy.
Sept 11-14: Salzburg
Sept 14-16: Leave Salzburg the morning of the 14th and drive to Karlovy Vary. Spend the afternoon of the 14th and all day 15th exploring and doing spa activities.
Sept 16: Check out EARLY and drive to Prague. Return rental car and fly home.

Our goal was to spend time in charming/small towns (Cesky Krumlov, Hallstatt & Karlovy Vary) and also have some time in a big city (Prague). My main questions are: 1. Is Hallstatt worth visiting or is it a mistake given how over-touristed it is? Will we potentially have smaller crowds as we will be there in September during the week and are staying the night or is it always just crazy?
2. Are we being overly-ambitious going to so many places? We aren't able to do many European vacations so we're kind of trying to squeeze it all in one.

Thank you for any input anyone can provide!

Posted by
420 posts

It's NOT over ambitious.

Two points come to mind, a Czech rental car will not have an Austrian autobahn tax sticker (Vignette) - and your plan can be done without using austrian autobahns so it isn't worth stopping to buy a sticker, just plan the route carefully. On the 14th the A1 autobahn from Salzburg Nord around the north west side of the city and out to the german border at Walserberg is open without Vignette

Viisitng Hallstatt is not a mistake but do you really need to stay there, given you have the flexibility of the car? I would stay at one of the villages on the Wolfgangsee, Fuschlsee or Mondsee. Get there on the afternoon of the 10th and see how it goes, if you want a few hours in Hallstadt you can go next morning, especially if it's the caves you want to see.

And the controversial bit. If you stayed somewhere like Fuschl or St. Gilgen you would only be 30-40 minutes from central Salzburg, so do you really need to change hotels?

Posted by
3298 posts

Hallstadt is pretty, true, but very very small, and I wonder if it's worth an entire day/night. We went there in a driving rainstorm. Just a bunch of restaurants and the church. I'd stay close, and do a 2 hour stop.

Posted by
3298 posts

You may wish to evaluate train approaches to your trip. It sounds like you will drive for 2-3 hours, and then park the car for 3 days. That means you pay 2x - once for the car, once for the parking. We've done many of these towns, and always did trains/buses (Flixbus). In fact, if you want Hallstadt, Bob's Tours out of Salzburg does a "Sound of Music" tour that includes Hallstadt. Our tour was in a small 9-seater van, and we stopped at a restaurant. I had the goat.

Posted by
2468 posts

I have to say that Hallstatt might just be the single most disappointing destination in my many years of European travel. The streets are packed with American and Chinese tourists, credit cards are absolutely useless, and the lake views, while pretty, are surpassed by those in less touristed places like Traunkirchen.

I understand my viewpoint is uncommon, but I doubt I'm the only one who holds it.

Conversely, Salzburg and Prague are two of my favorites, and Cesky Krumlov is absolutely worth going out of one's way to see.

Posted by
26872 posts

jphbucks a lot of perception can be the luck of the timing. September 2024 when my girlfriend and I went, Hallstatt, Hallstatt was empty. No crowds anywhere and that may have had an impact on why we enjoyed it. The OP is going about the same time of year and might run into the same conditions … just a guess. A quick look and I found the tourism in September is half that of July or August.

The fact that Hallstatt has a lot of Chinese tourists might also have influenced our enjoyment, as Hallstatt is place where my Chinese (in appearance) girlfriend could spend time without having to deal with a lot of Western racism and stereotyping. I guess we are your worst scourge, an American and a Chinese adding to the numbers on the street. I think you have already been to Budapest, but if not, you need to know it has the largest Asian population in Central Europe and attracts a large number of Asian tourists. The Hungarian people are amazingly welcoming; even to those that look different.

My two trips to Prague over the years have both been to wall-to-wall crowds. Old Town Prague and Hallstatt share one thing in my mind, that is they are both European Disneylands. They exist for one purpose, that is to entertain tourists. As long as you know that going in, they can be fun and there is nothing wrong with having fun on holiday. But with Hallstatt make sure the funicular is reopened (should be this summer) if you are going. I would skip Hallstatt if it isn’t open as the trip up the hill and the salt mine are a great part of the tourist schtick.

Regarding Salzburg. The trip to Hallstatt was for her … (geee there goes that dang stereotype again) … so not expecting to enjoy Hallstatt because of the crowds I chose Salzburg as the second stop. Most of the time spent in Salzburg was spent asking myself why we came. Not one of the more memorable stops of my life. But just could have been bad timing.

Oh, Cesky Krumlov; we agree.

Posted by
26872 posts

shelleydubois1
We all enjoy different stuff, no none of this is criticism. All I can say is what I enjoy and why and maybe some of it has some meaning for you.

First, congratulations on the anniversary. That is a great achievement. G-d Bless.

For me Prague was fun for a few days but not on any cultural level. The visual is great, the food was pretty good, the evenings were nice. We stayed at the Hotel Ventana which was one of the better hotel experiences of my travels. Part the hotel, part the staff, part the location. Still, by the end of the 3rd day I was happy to be leaving. I did return a few years later for 2 days and experienced about the same.

If I were planning to spend real time in Hluboka nad Vltavou and limp into Prague late at night, then the rental car would make sense to me. For a drive past/through it wouldn’t be worth it and that’s all you can do if you are going to be in Cesky Krumlov by afternoon. I would do train or shuttle and arrive as early as possible before the day trippers and take the last shuttle out of Cesky Krumlov for Hallstatt. Better, I would spend two nights (take one from Prague). It was that good for me. The crowded time is about noon till 3pm when the day trippers are there. So you want to be there early and late. But its September and I am not convinced that it will be terrible.

Two nights in Hallstatt (take one from Salzburg)
Hallstatt to Salzburg is by train.

Salzburg to Karlovy Vary is the hard connection. A bus maybe. Worst case DayTrip.com

But you see, your rental is forcing you to drive a loop. If you were to do Karlov Vary first and then the rest of the trip … ending with a flight out of Munich then I bet its less expensive and you get more time doing good things and less traveling …. Maybe. But as we are talking about September, I am guessing its too late for such a big change.

Posted by
2 posts

Thank you all for your input! Our plans are kind of set at this point as far as flights and hotels go. We haven't rented the car yet, but we're still leaning that way because of the flexibility it will afford us. We had considered public transport but it made our transit time even longer than if we went by car. My husband really enjoys driving and I'm hoping we'll see some beautiful countryside throughout the trip. Also, we like the idea of being able to stop wherever if we see something interesting along the way. If anyone knows of any random, fun stops, let me know!

In any event, thanks for the warnings about "Disneyland Europe" as well. I think knowing what to expect in that regard will keep it from being too jarring when we go and witness all the crowds.

I'M GETTING SO EXCITED!!!