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Central Europe Nov 14 days - questions

Hi all

First post!

Shall keep this to point.

4 cities 6-19 nov.
Berlin 4 days
Prague 3/4 days
Vienna 3 days
Budapest 3/4 days

At that time, wife will be bout 5-6 months pregnant, so something to keep in mind.

1) I'm trying to decide if I should spend 4 days in/around Prague or in/around Budapest. Wanted to save some $$ so I'll stick to 3 days in Vienna. I'd probably spend a day to cesky Krumlov and Bratislava. So with that in mind, the extra day better served where?

2) seeing that the day is short, I thought it'd make sense to do the inter city rail transit in the late afternoon when it's getting dark, but I do not want to miss any particularly scenic rides.
- does traveling later in the day make sense?
- which legs should really be seen in th day to enjoy the scenery?

Thanks everyone!

Posted by
16893 posts

My first choice would be to give the extra day to Vienna, especially if you're interested in the castles and museums there, and if a day may be spent on the side trip to Bratislava. Is your hotel there particularly expensive? How much money do you expect to save?

Traveling later is logical from the perspective of not "wasting" daylight hours. From somewhat distant memory, I don't believe that you would miss any critical scenery, though I see a mention of river and gorge views between Dresden and Prague. You can bring your dinner onto the trains. Most hotels don't mind later arrivals, as long as you have planned it with them.

Also consider whether placing a train appointment/deadline at that time of day might add stress to the earlier sightseeing, or might take up more time as you go back to the hotel to collect luggage, depending on hotel location. Versus if you leave early, your afternoon/evening is totally free after arrival at your destination. You will find a few sites open late in each city.

Posted by
17895 posts

Okay, each to their preferences. For cash savings Budapest has the edge. For my personal taste the places stack up Budapest #1, Prague #2, Vienna and Berlin tied for #4. I love Cesky Krumlov too and it’s a good break from all the big cities. Let’s look at it this way:

Arrive in Berlin on the 6th? That’s important to know. Or is the 6th the day your depart the US?
6. you land after 1pm sometime, or as late as 4pm and might have half a day sort of worn out to maybe walk the neighborhood near the hotel. Maybe dinner. Pretty much a throw away day.
7. See Berlin
8. See Berlin
9. Berlin to Prague. This will take a significant part of the day leaving you at best ½ day in Prague
10. See Prague.
11. See Prague
12. Prague to Cesky Krumlov (Bean Shuttle or similar) If you take the morning shuttle over and the afternoon shuttle the next day you will have enough time to see CK and have a few hours with out quite so many tourist present.
13. Cesky Krumlov to Vienna (Bean Shuttle or similary) You will have only a few hours in Vienna this day
14. Vienna
15. Vienna to Budapest. Take a late train so you can get at least the morning time in Vienna.
16. Budapest
17. Budapest
18. Budapest
19. Head Home.
I’m not a big fan of Vienna, but if you have never been then I would suggest that you come to your own conclusion. To that end you might consider skipping CK (mistake) or cutting a day in Budapest (bigger mistake – but I am really, really biased). If you cut a day in Budapest and move it to Vienna then take a morning train to Budapest to recapture at least half the day. Notice that Bratislava didn’t fit at all?

As for travel time. The scenery is sort of mixed. You aren't gong to miss a lot either way. On the other hand Budapest for instance is stunning in the evening with all the lights.

G-d forbid you need it. But I have relied on these folks for a number of years now from everything from prescriptions to minor surgery. Good OBGYN department as well: http://firstmedcenters.com/

Posted by
12040 posts

The atmosphere in Europe north of the Alps is very damp in November. Forget the technicolor travel photos you've seen, these are usually taken at the height of summer. In November, the low light and damp air limits visibility and imparts a dull gray tint to the landscape. I wouldn't expect great scenery, so don't worry about missing too much by traveling after dark.

Posted by
7026 posts

I was in both last summer. This is just a personal opinion but I would definitely give the edge to Budapest for another day. I loved both Prague and Budapest but I would only go back to Prague if I was with someone who really wanted to go there, Budapest I would go back to in a heartbeat. Can't really explain why but Budapest just resonated with me for some reason and I just loved walking around there in the evening after dark, not so much in Prague.

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks all

I'm staying mostly airbnb and Vienna and Budapest apartment cost quite different. Not too sure bout food/transport costs etc yet.

I'm arriving 7am on 6th and leaving 8pm on 19th so I gucan as that's 14 pretty full days

Maybe I'll have 1 daylight leg just so the wife can have a look since it's her first time in Europe. Perhaps my memories of the Swiss views don't compare fairly with Central Europe scenery!

Never thought of CK overnight too. Will have to look into that.

Posted by
17895 posts

Hann, a good apartment in Budapest shouldn't cost you more than 55euro a night and many nice ones are available for 45 euro. If its less than that send me the address and I will look it up and I might be able to tell you why its so cheap. I cant speak to prices in Vienna as we only do day trips to Vienna; and then rarely.

Cesky K. is a full day to get the most out of it. Fascinating place and the tourist crunch will be less in November so that's good. Make sure you tour the theater at the castle. Well worth the time. All of the night time and evening photos in CK were taken from the balcony of the one of two rooms with a balcony at the Dvorak Hotel https://vasvaripalvacationphotos.shutterfly.com/czechrep

Given a choice between Bratislava and Gyor and the Archabbey at Pannonhalma, I choose the Archabbey. And its on the way to Budapest and night in Gyor a the Klastrom Hotel which is a converted 18th century monastery. Cheaper than Bratislava too.

Budapest at night sort of works in the great scheme of things: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C9F4C533EB93D92E!19559&authkey=!ADiKJ_cAmxRccdA&ithint=folder%2c and https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C9F4C533EB93D92E!19561&authkey=!AKl-AfKbpKboUmk&ithint=folder%2c

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks James

Seeing a few apartments Near vorasmaty square, or szent Irat korut, or vertanuk tere. Which would be the best area? All affordable enough for us.

Cool never heard of gyor. CK and these other small venues will probably be day trips cos wife wouldn't wanna lug baggage here and there.

Was considering Dresden for a few hours on the way to Prague too. I guess I have to condense and filter these side trips to 1 or 2 so I can also keep to the cities.

So between Dresden, bratis, gyor, gyor would be the nicest/most different choice?

I'm looking at a timeline like this

6,7,8,9 berlin
10 depart for Prague (drop by Dresden or spend more hours in Prague?)
11 Prague
12 CK
13 depart for Vienna (depart pm so am to spend in Prague)
14 Vienna
15 Vienna (wanna catch Vienna philharmonic)
16 Vienna (melk and towns day trip)
17 depart for Budapest (am for more bp, or few hours in bratis)
18 buda
19 pm depart for home.

Even typing it out I can see it's quite a squeeze, those transit days especially.

Mmmm

Posted by
17895 posts

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=C9F4C533EB93D92E!14944&authkey=!ABx6AcT8DtFafcs&ithint=file%2cpdf will show you where I think you should find your apartment. When you have selected one send me the address and let me see what I can tell you. The ones you already mentioned Vorsomarty is way too much in the Disneyland part of tourist Budapest. I cant find a szent Irat korut but if you mean Szent istvan korut then its pretty remote to where the sightseeing is located. Vértanúk tere is a lovely location between the park and the parliament but hasn't got any nice evening activity. That part of town sort of rolls up the streets at night. But not all together bad.

Posted by
17895 posts

I guess if you want to spend so much time in Berlin I think you should skip Cesky K. and head straight to Vienna. Put the day you save in Budapest. You will regret just one day in Budapest. Half of those that visit will regret just 2 days in Budapest and half of what is left will regret just 3 days in Budapest.

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks James

Found one next to st stephen's basilica which fits the bill. That a good place?

Most places I've read Berlin has loads to do for 4 days. So maybe..

6,7,8, Berlin
9 am for Prague (Dresden a few hours)
10 Prague
11 CK
12 Pm depart Vienna
13 Vienna
14 Vienna (Melk and towns)
15 Vienna (wanna catch Vienna philharmonic)
16 depart for Budapest (am for more bp, or few hours in bratis)
17 buda
18 gyor
19 pm depart for home.

So equates to

berlin 3 days
Dresden .5
Prague 2.5
CK 1
Vienna 2
Melk 1
Buda 2.5
Gyor 1

Something like that?

Posted by
15582 posts

Chiming in here with a few thoughts.

First, what's your style? Are you energetic and fit in lots and lots every day? Do you visit a museum to see the highlights and move on? If so, I think you'll enjoy the itinerary you've set out - provided, of course, that your wife feels up to it, but that's something you won't know in advance. And if it's too fast-paced, will you be able to make adjustments? For instance, if you buy train tickets in advance, would you be able to skip the stop in Dresden? If your style is more laid back, then you're spreading yourselves too thin.

I'm all for evening train travel. I wear myself out sightseeing during the day, and then I can relax on the train, eat a picnic dinner, and then see a bit of my new destination after dark (and get oriented) before turning in.

As for individual stops, I've been to the major ones, not to the others. Berlin has first-class museums and lots of 20th century history (WWII, Soviet era) and even a lovely palace. I spent 2 nights in Dresden and loved it, but I would probably skip it with your itinerary, in favor of more time in Prague, which deserves at least 2 full days, 3 if you want a day trip to Terezin (fascinating, if you are interested in the subject). Vienna is the most Western city, it feels more like a knock-off of Paris (not by accident, either). Don't get me wrong, it's lovely, but if your emphasis is on "East" then consider spending only 2 days there. Also, if weather isn't nice, would you still want the day trip to Melk? Yes, James is prejudiced, but that doesn't mean he isn't right. Budapest deserves 3 full days at a minimum. In addition to the other sights, it has really interesting museums.

Posted by
17895 posts

I don't think you have time for anything more than this. It will be easier on your wife too.

  1. Arrive Berlin
  2. Berlin
  3. Berlin
  4. Morning train to Prague with not stops along the way (No Dresden)
  5. Prague
  6. Prague
  7. Morning train to Vienna
  8. Vienna
  9. Vienna / Melk day trip / Vienna (I've been to Melk in the winter and while not perfect it was worth the effort)
  10. Evening train to Budapest
  11. Budapest
  12. Budapest
  13. Budapest
  14. Depart for home.
Posted by
227 posts

I'm on the James train!

I have been to Prague twice...second time cause hubby hadn't been. Neither one of us feel compelled to return though we enjoyed it. The difference in the city between my 1st trip in 2008 and 2nd one in 2012 was significant. So much more touristy and full of drinkers. I have only been there in November.
I was in Vienna once in 2010. I will return but only to take my husband. It is beautiful and I enjoyed it though it is a little over the top for me...kinda burned me out on the Habsburg Monarchy. Again, I was there in early November.
You will deeply regret not spending 3 days in Budapest. Two trips in 2010 & 2012 during November and late October have left me still wanting to return for more. if you want that 19th century feel you will not be disappointed! The lights at night along the river are the best in Europe! I like the "more spread out feel" - less packed though I was still able to walk most everywhere. The few times I took a bus or the metro they were easy to use and the metro modern. The one time I used a taxi (Momento Park) I only did it as I was pressed for time. We took a side trip to Terezin last visit and were glad as it broke the ice for our trip to Auschwitz and Birkenau this last year.

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks all! Great help, and great reminder to take it easy, we never enjoy rushed itineraries but it's always that mentality of trying to squeeze as much as possible after flying all the way there.

James, how's the address beside st Stephen basilica sound to you?

Posted by
7026 posts

I'm not as familiar with Budapest as James but I can say that the St Stephens area is certainly convenient for many of the tourist sights. It is a very busy area during the day and early evening but I don't know if it quiets down later at night or not. James could probably answer that though.

Posted by
17895 posts

Forgive me as I tend to get a little too picky about locations. But one of the reasons is that there are just so many great places at reasonable costs that you can get pretty picky. I also don’t trust the location descriptions in the apartment marketing. If they don’t give you an exact address be suspicious. “Two minutes from……” can mean at a full run.

If this apartment has a Szent István tér address then its good. If it is south or east of Szent István tér it is better. If it is north of Szent István tér 6 its going to be a walk through some beautiful government buildings but it’s sort of a dead zone for tourism. While we are at the location, some of the best souvenir shops are on the south side of Szent István tér and up one of the side streets off the souths side of the ter. Quality stuff. Further down (west) the pedestrian is a nice little shop that sells music themed gifts. I like the place.

So sure it’s fine. Since your wife will be 5 months and since Budapest is a large town you might want to look closer to a metro or a tram station. At the end of Kiraly utca is the 47/49 tram terminious where which you can take to the Great Synagogue and the Great Market and across to the Gellert Hotel. (you need to google and read the histories). Across the street is Deak Ferenc ter where you can take the M1 to Hero’s Square, the Park, Bath House, etc. You could also go one stop to the heart of the tourist trap zone from which it is about a 2 minute walk to the Danube embankment (or just walk the full distance in about 10 minutes). The embankment is beautiful; especially in the evening.

If you look near the Opera house you will have the M1 metro at your door step which will connect you to the before mentioned locations and the 47/49 tram. We stay in this area because the side streets are a lot more “local” and comfortable. The closer to the river you get the more dense the tourist crowd. Interesting thing about Budapest is that there are maybe 8 big must see “things” but the glue that binds them all together is as fascinating or for me, more fascinating than the “things”. Much like Paris in that regard.

Posted by
16 posts

Thanks!! Looks like I've Budapest accom settled.

Are you an expert for prime addresses for Berlin Prague and Vienna too? Just trying my luck. Haha

Posted by
16 posts

Hi guys,

it's been awhile.. now getting into the thick of the planning.

I'm booking trains and stuff.. can I ask why for a berline to prague leg,

DB bahn is quoting 135 Euro for 2 pax, and Czech train site is quoting bout 60 euros? some 3rd party site (the trainline-europe) is also about 60+ euro?

Does that mean I should always compare the purchase price from the dep/arr country to decide the best price? The big jump is surprising.

Wonder if the refugee issue is raising prices hmmm.

Posted by
4637 posts

Tickets bought through the Czech Railways are cheaper than from Deutsche Bahn sometimes significantly. I think it's because Germans earn more than Czechs. That's why prices are generally higher in Germany. It has nothing to do with refugee crises. 2 tickets from Berlin to Prague cost 1600 Kc (czech crowns)= 59 Euro = $66. From Deutsche Bahn as you found out it's substantially higher.

Posted by
17895 posts

Hann, While I am not a big fan of Vienna it is a necessary evil from time to time. I would stay as close to the Karnter Stra. as possible. I like the Imperial.

Berlin? Never been there.