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Austria-Hungary-Poland-Czechia

Hi. I'm planning for our (my sister and I) trip for September 2020 and I'm not sure if this itinerary makes sense. Or is it too much for a 15-day trip? Also, another concern is the check in/check out time of hotel/airbnb accommodations. If we transfer from city to city, the arrival time is early morning but we'll have to wait until 12nn to 2pm before we can check in. Then check out time are mostly at 10am, which again we will need a place to store our luggage before we travel to another city in the evening. This is our first time to do this kind of trip so we would like to know how the others do it.

Day 1 Vienna Arriving at Vienna airport 6am then train to Budapest
Day 2 Budapest
Day 3 Budapest

Day 4 Budapest Night Sleeper train or bus to Krakow
Day 5 Krakow

Day 6 Krakow

Day 7 Krakow Night Sleeper train or bus to Prague
Day 8 Prague

Day 9 Prague

Day 10 Cesky Krumlov (Night in Salzburg)

Day 11 Salzburg (Night in Vienna)
Day 12 Vienna

Day 13 Vienna
Day 14 Vienna

Day 15 Vienna Morning flight back to Manila

Thanks!

Posted by
8339 posts

While your itinerary is do-able, you might want to reconsider traveling at night. You'll miss seeing the countryside, and night travel disrupts your sleep cycle and wears you out the next day or two.
There are a number of Cesky Krumlov shuttle companies that can transport you from Prague and on to Salzburg for a reasonable price.

Posted by
28249 posts

I would find 3 days inadequate for all four of the larger cities, and I echo the concern about night trains. Even when I was younger I did not sleep well in the couchettes. The beds in the regular sleepers are no doubt more comfortable (but costlier), but you will still be on a moving vehicle that periodically brakes, parks in a station (with attendant noise) and accelerates away. Only really heavy sleepers can sleep through that. There's a very good chance that you'll be operating in a mental fog the next day. And you are proposing to do it twice.

These are the stops made by your planned trains after 11 PM:

Budapest-Krakow
Breclav 11:50 PM
Ostrava hl.n. 01:32 AM
Bohumin 03:18 AM
Zebrzydowice 03:39 AM
Czechowice-Dziedzice 04:07 AM
Oswiecim 04:49 AM
arr Krakow 06:25 AM

Krakow-Prague
Oswiecim 11:54 PM
Czechowice-Dziedzice 00:40 AM
Zebrzydowice 01:09 AM
Bohumin 03:23 AM
Ostrava hl.n. 03:34 AM
Ostrava-Svinov 03:44 AM
Olomouc hl.n. 04:43 AM
Ceska Trebova 05:36 AM
Pardubice hl.n. 06:17 AM
arrive Prague 07:31 AM

If you stay in large hotels with front desks staffed 24 hours a day, you should be able to leave your luggage at the hotel after check-out and retrieve it before you head for the train station. You should be able to do the same thing upon arrival in your new city. I offer a tip for that service; sometimes it is refused.

Posted by
28249 posts

I'm with James E.

Last year I used a toilet stall in a train station immediately after another woman vacated it. The stench of body odor in that cubicle (open at both top and bottom) was so strong I almost choked. The other traveler had a large backpack, and I can only speculate that she had done at least two back-to-back overnight trips and hadn't had an opportunity to shower. She ended up in my train car, but fortunately I didn't have to sit near her.

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you all very much for your inputs. I will definitely reconsider the night train. I think flying will be a better option. I don't want to be on zombie mode the next day. And I don't like the idea of spending the whole day on the train.
And if that would be the case, we might not do Cesky Krumlov and Salzburg anymore. We will just focus more on the larger cities.

Posted by
5477 posts

I did a very similar trip last fall (2018) to the one you are sketching - same 4 cities plus Cesky Krumlov. I had 17 full days, but I didn't want to give up my smaller city visits. So, I did take the night train from Krakow to Prague. It saved me the better part of a day on the train or about half a sightseeing day flying. And I view my overnight train as another great adventure on my trip!

I am a very light sleeper - ticking clocks keep me awake. But the noise and motion of a train puts me right to sleep - even with all those stops. I chose a private sleeper with full en-suite shower, sink and toilet. They have 2-bed sleepers, which you and your sister could share. The cost is likely to be similar to a night in a hotel.

I woke up feeling great and ready for my day of sightseeing in Prague, arriving in-time to drop my luggage at my hotel and join a 10am city tour.

If the idea of a train appeals to the two of you at all, you could consider just one of the overnight trains to try it, and fly the other leg. And while I wouldn't necessarily suggest adding CK and Salzburg back in, it can buy you some sightseeing time, if you're not a zombie, that is!

Posted by
3283 posts

Check with your accomodations if you can store your bags before your room is ready and after you check out.

Posted by
11 posts

Hi CWsocial. How many days did you stay in CK? Or was it just a day trip? Do you think it's worth squeezing in our itinerary?
And thanks for giving us an idea, we might try the sleeper train once on this trip.

Posted by
5477 posts

Hi Louise,

How many days did you stay in CK? Or was it just a day trip?
I stayed 2 nights in CK, arrived mid-Sunday from Prague and left early Tuesday for Vienna. Most people would say that is too much. It was my mid-way point on my vacation. I did laundry. I sat with a cup of tea on the balcony of my hotel, overlooking the river. I had pizza and a glass of hot wine on one of the squares. I walked along the river and up to the castle, where I wandered through the gardens. It was lovely and quite peaceful, just a few other people strolling the gardens.

In contrast - during the day, it can be mobbed with day trippers. My full day was a Monday, when things are closed; which meant there were fewer tour groups. To experience that slower pace, you'll need to be there in the evening or on a Monday.

Do you think it's worth squeezing in our itinerary?
It is a lovely place. The town itself is the attraction - as Rick Steves says in his books. Though I did enjoy the tour of the Baroque Theater when I first arrived on Sunday. It would be very different from your big city destinations and would force you to slow down and just enjoy being there. If that sounds like a terrible way to spend one of your vacation days, then I wouldn't squeeze it in.

And thanks for giving us an idea, we might try the sleeper train once on this trip.
And then you will know whether you like it or will never take one again!

Posted by
3961 posts

Hi Louise,
We traveled a similar route this past September (minus Poland). We spent 18 nights which included 2 wonderful nights in Cesky Krumlov. I would concur with CWsocial that CK was a worthwhile stop. We were so happy to have some downtime between Vienna & Prague. We did an early morning walking tour with Karolina (owner of Krumlov Tours). Seeing CK in the early morning we had the town to ourselves! We also toured the exquisite Barogue Theater. Karolina shows you CK off the beaten path. She was knowledgeable and engaging. www.krumlovtours.com. We took a morning train from Budapest to Vienna. We hired CK Shuttle to transport us from Vienna to CK and CK to Prague. BTW Poland is on our radar for a future trip!

Posted by
20500 posts

My two cents. I am one of those strange folks that has no problem with going to the airport. Day 8, it it isnt on a day Ryanair makes the flight, then take the train. But check the time of year you are traveling because Ryanair might up the service in the high season.

Day 1 Vienna Arriving at Vienna airport 6 am then train to Budapest
Day 2 Budapest
Day 3 Budapest
Day 4 Budapest
Day 5 9:20 am LOT Non Stop to Krakow (about $125)
Day 6 Krakow
Day 7 Krakow
Day 8 1:50 pm Ryanair Non Stop to Prague (only on Sunday and Thursday - about $100)
Day 9 Prague
Day 10 Prague
Day 11 Bean or CK Shuttle to Cesky Krumlov
Day 12 Bean or CK Shuttle to Vienna
Day 13 Vienna
Day 14 Vienna
Day 15 Vienna Morning flight back to Manila

Posted by
7055 posts

My biggest problem with over night trains is I cant start the day till
I've had a shower.

Most night trains have showers.

Posted by
15022 posts

Hi,

The good thing is central Europe is well connected by night trains, a few years ago, a new night train line began operating between Berlin and Vienna via Poland, before that it ran through the Czech Rep. Budapest is a night train hub...very handy.

The cities you list, BP, Prague, Krakow and Vienna are all connected by night trains. So, this convenient option is available to you if you decide to use it. I have no problems taking night trains, sitting in the compartments, which are always part and parcel of my post retirement trips starting in 2009.

Take the night train option, you stretch out another travel day. You'll see that you certainly won't be alone, night trains do fill up too in summer travel.

Posted by
134 posts

Can I ask why you are flying into Vienna and then taking a train to Budapest? Have you considered flying open jaw (into one city and out of another)?

Also, regarding the Krakow-Prague night train, i say go for it and don't worry about missing daytime landscape views. Having lived in the region for a few years about 8 years ago, the landscape in that region isn't so spectacular that I'd feel like I was missing anything, especially as you'll be taking trains during the day on other legs of the trip. Just my two cents!

Posted by
11 posts

Can I ask why you are flying into Vienna and then taking a train to Budapest? Have you considered flying open jaw (into one city and out of another)?

We already bought a roundtrip ticket to Vienna.

Also, regarding the Krakow-Prague night train, i say go for it and don't worry about missing daytime landscape views.

We also don't like to take the daytime train. It would feel like we're wasting a day on transit. So our options are either take the night train or fly the next day.

Posted by
11 posts

Thanks CWSocial and Janis. CK sounds like a really lovely city to be enjoyed unhurriedly. I would love to visit it if only we have extra nights. I guess the only way we could do CK is if we do a day trip from Prague.

Posted by
11 posts

Hi James E. we'll probably take a night train on one leg and fly on another. So for day 8 we can take the night train. (Thanks for the info)
I noticed you removed Salzburg in the itinerary. Do you suggest we choose CK over Salzburg?

Posted by
20500 posts

For my taste, the trip was a bit hurried. Cesky K. fits nice and efficient into the plan, Salzburg a little less so. Either would work but I wouldn't try both. Just too much traveling for me.

Posted by
3961 posts

I would concur with Sir James E. Cesky Krumlov makes an easy day trip or overnight stay from Prague. It also lends itself to your route to Vienna. If you are in CK overnight I would recommend Papa's Living Restaurant on the river. Wonderful local cuisine, affordable & stunning view over the Vltava River. We ate there twice. We made reservations. Opens at 5:30PM. www.papas.cz

Posted by
20500 posts

louise, I read here that the train ride from Krakow to Prague doesn't go through much interesting scenery. I haven't been on the train between Budapest and Krakow, but I have covered much of the route by car, the scenery is pretty good actually. So good in fact that I would be pretty upset if i were stuck in a train and couldn't pull over to enjoy it.

Posted by
11 posts

I checked the map again and you're right, CK will make a lot more sense in our itinerary. I'm officially scratching off Salzburg in the list. And now planning to spend a night in CK.
Thank you all so much for the help!

Posted by
20500 posts

The only other thing I can suggest is to run the trip in reverse. Budspest will be the most laid back and at the same time most interesting of your stops. Makes for a great ending to a trip.

Oh, and split Vienna. A day when you arrive and a day prior to the trip home. Less rush that way maybe.

Posted by
11 posts

Initially, we planned to do the reverse. But we're thinking that it would be better to be in the city of departure the night before our flight back home so we put Vienna last.
We also put the 3 days in Vienna together because we're planning to get the Vienna pass that needs to be consumed for 3 consecutive days.

Posted by
7055 posts

Badger, you would think so .... Fred is the king of the sleeper, if
you do it, listen to him.

I don't think, I know. I have quite a lot of night train experience.

Posted by
15022 posts

Admittedly, I don't have night train experience using the "sleeper" option, since I am unwilling to pay for that piece of luxury when taking a night train. My experiences with night trains are only to compartments and the general seating areas on the ICE where the light is left on, not dimmed, all night long.

Posted by
5477 posts

You can price the night train from Krakow to Prague on PolRail.com where I found these per person prices for February, 2020 (as far out as you can buy, 60 days):

  • 292PLN / $76 2nd Class, with reserved seat
  • 322PLN / $84 6-person couchette compartment
  • 380PLN / $99 2-person sleeping compartment (no shower, no WC in compartment) (roughly the per-person cost of the Ryanair flight that James E mentions, above)
  • 451 PLN / $117 2-person sleeping compartment with en-suite shower and WC

So you're paying an additional 159PLN / $41.45 per person above the price of a 2nd class reserved seat for the 2-person sleeping compartment with shower and WC.

You might also request a custom quote from the very responsive team at PolRail.com, who also arranged (for approx. $10) to have my tickets delivered to my hotel in Krakow.

Note: the link, above, will show you all the options I've listed for a date in February, 2020.

Posted by
20500 posts

CWsocial, sort of what I thought ... experienced years ago. There is nothing at all wrong with the sleeper train. I respect Fred's opinion and it's his choice. I tried it once a lifetime ago and just decided I got more value for my style with a flight.

Although, with the right traveling companion .... 451 PLN / $117 2-person sleeping compartment with en-suite shower and WC ... could be fun.

Posted by
28249 posts

I think that 2-person compartment costs $234. The $117 figure is per person. And I would actually sleep if I spent the night in a $50 or $100 hotel room. However, I acknowledge that for those who can get a decent night's sleep, a night train is a valuable saver of sightseeing time.

Posted by
20500 posts

That is sort of a pricey hotel room. I wonder if the same folks who advocate the sleeper train are the ones that complain if their $150 hotel room is exposed to a bit of street noise?

Posted by
5477 posts

That is sort of a pricey hotel room.
Yes, that would be a pricey hotel room. However, the $234 also includes the train tickets for 2 people. At $76 each, that is $152 of the cost, leaving $82 ($41 per person) as the premium for the 2-sleeper compartment with WC and shower. Not terribly pricey.

Posted by
11 posts

Yes, that would be a pricey hotel room. However, the $234 also includes the train tickets for 2 people. At $76 each, that is $152 of the cost, leaving $82 ($41 per person) as the premium for the 2-sleeper compartment with WC and shower. Not terribly pricey.

That's what I'm thinking too. So the price is not so bad.
Since there are very limited flights as mentioned before, I think taking the train would fit more into our schedule. Anyway, we're only going to do it twice (Budapest-Krakow and Krakow-Prague), I hope it won't wear us out.
By the way, has anyone tried Flixbus before?

Posted by
5477 posts

Yes, I took FlixBus this October when it was my best option from Wroclaw, Poland to Prague.

Good: the booking process is easy and available in English; the bus was clean, the seats were comfy; plenty of room for luggage under the bus. My view from the "panoramic" front row seat (over the driver/front door area) was a wonderful sightseeing expedition through the Polish and Czech countryside, well worth the small fee for that "panoramic" seat reservation.

Bad: the bus was 20 or 30 minutes late, there were no bathrooms on the bus and no apparent bathrooms at our mid-journey stop, so it was a long 5 hours in that respect. Wifi was not reliable.

Edited to add: pricing is based on demand, with prices increasing as availability decreases and the travel date approaches.

Would I do it again: absolutely! (and no coffee for breakfast :-)

If you decide to book, please look for my money-saving tips at this link:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/transportation/flixbus-tickets-cheaper-in-euros-than-dollars

Posted by
11 posts

Thank you so much CWsocial. Your tips are very helpful. You helped me a lot with my planning.
I do have one more question, I'm checking Budapest to Krakow train info and double deluxe is not offered. Do you know other options available? Thanks

Posted by
5477 posts

I just checked the PolRail.com site and found the same thing - no deluxe sleepers for Budapest to Krakow. But, to research further, I went to the train expert ... the Man in Seat 61.

In his Budapest to Krakow remarks, he says:

Option 2, by sleeper train. Safe, comfortable & time-effective...

A direct EuroNight sleeper train leaves Budapest Keleti at 19:25 every night, arriving Krakow at 06:22. It has economical couchettes in 4 & 6 bunk compartments and a comfortable, safe, civilised, carpeted sleeping-car with 1, 2 & 3 bed compartments with washbasin or 1 & 2 bed deluxe compartments with en suite toilet & shower.

He goes on to say:

You can usually book this train online at the Hungarian Railways website www.mavcsoport.hu, although it won't book deluxe sleepers so just stick with regular ones.

Since it seems that the deluxe sleeper compartments are available on that route, the next step I would take would be to email the kind people at PolRail.com and see if they have access to sell deluxe sleeper compartments. In my experience, they responded very promptly.

Posted by
11 posts

Thanks again, CWsocial!
Will email them maybe 2 months before our trip. I guess it's too early to email them now.

Posted by
5477 posts

Yes it's too early to book. If it affects your decision making, they could tell you whether they will be able to sell tickets for the deluxe sleepers.