I am thinking of going to Armenia and staying in Yerevan in September 2023.
I am a 70 year old white American man going with my wife
who is part Armenian and has been there before 30 years ago.
I have traveled all over Europe and to Russia several times.
I am primarily worried about Covid.
I am also worried Russians there.
I would also like to hire a guide for touring around Yerevan and day trips from there.
Am I being too cautious?
I was in Yerevan last year.
Only you can determine your comfort level vis-a-vis Covid. I didn't wear a mask at any time in Armenia, and I saw very few people who were.
I didn't encounter Russians in Armenia. My guide in Yerevan described Armenia's relationship with Russia as a marriage of convenience. Armenia has had a long-time concern about Turkey's interest in expanding eastward; Russia is perhaps their strongest protection.
When I was there, I watched a demonstration taking place in Freedom Square. It was just a lot of speeches and flag waving, none of which I was able to understand, but the sentiment was clearly anti-Putin.
Are you being too cautious? It doesn't really matter. If you would be uneasy and anxious, don't go.
I had an excellent guide for a walking tour of Yerevan. I'm sorry I don't have her contact information. I also had a guide for day trips, but not someone I would recommend.
I loved Yerevan. It's vibrant, attractive, and has great food, They have not managed to preserve any kind of old town that I saw, though. There's a lot of modern architecture (built during and since the end of the Soviet era), some of which is evocative of earlier styles, and some which is very contemporary.
There was an interesting Travelscope show on Yerevan just this past week, and it mentioned that Republic Square, the other main square besides Freedom Square, was once called Lenin Square. Since independence, it was renamed, and the Lenin statue removed. Maybe that was mostly symbolic, or maybe very significant, but it sounds like prior Russian ties have been decisively severed.
My husband’s ancestry is part Armenian. We haven’t made a trip there yet, but would like to do so, along with neighboring Georgia. We’ve gotten Covid vaccination boosters each time they’ve been authorized in the USA. Have seldom worn masks in the past year, but still maintain a supply for occasional wearing. We’ve made 3 trips to Europe and 1 to Africa since 2021. Another trip to Europe is scheduled for this September. We’ll have masks (just in case) and plenty of hand sanitizer. Aware about Covid, but not a primary concern, and still traveling. I’m older than you … go now, or you’ll be even older when you finally do!
You might try Lyuba Tours https://lyubatours.com/we-explore
This company is run by a couple of excellent Rick Steves guides. They have a tour that includes Armenia and Georgia.
Pre-Covid we had a wonderful trip around Armenia organized by an Armenian family member. I'm sure there are plenty of heritage tours for overseas Armenians. As Cyn indicated, you won't be getting younger each year you wait
We saw Russian tourists in Georgia but not Armenia.
Be sure to mask if you don't think you have enough antibody resistance built up. That does seem to be a problem for some Americans who do everything by car and don't interact much back in the US.
Good chance to expand your understanding if what's going in in the world. Our news in the US is so limited.
There was some civil unrest in the past 6 months. I Dont know the status now. And I am ashamed to say I don't know if it was related to Russian activities or the war or both. Haven't even heard much about the war in the last few months but I don't believe it got any where near Yerevan.
If someone offered me a ticket I would go in a heart beat.
And if you can work in a stop in Georgia that would be great. There are nonstop flights from Kutaisi to Budapest on Wizz.
Armenians love their civil unrest - but I have a friend who is in Yerevan now, he reports there isn't much going on over the past month.
Covid has been off everyone's radar for quite some time now - I didn't see a single mask even around this time last year. I suggest you bring masks along if you are concerned.
You'll hear a lot of Russian spoken (a couple of tech companies moved most of their workforce there), will probably meet a lot of other foreigners. My friend says the overall vibes are good. What is your concern when it comes to Russians?
I'll be there in a couple of weeks, will be happy to ping back then with an update.
If Armenia ratifies the ICC Treaty or threatens (further) to leave the CSTO; you might reconsider going. If you are there at the time you might consider gettig the heck out. If either happens it appears the society is divided enough for their to be a change of starting protests again; and the chance of foreign retaliation for either act is probably pretty real.
The war has been on hold since September but the peace talks ended unexpectedly a few weeks ago. So that could become an issue.
I would still make plans to go, but I would make a Plan B just in case.
Funny, I was looking at this part of the world again just this morning. As a Canadian, I checked our Travel advisory and both Armenia and Georgia were green with cautions about a couple of areas of dissension....easily avoided. I would want to be adding Azerbijan as well. I have wanted to dip a toe into the Black and Caspian Seas since playing Pirates and Traveler in the 60s.
3rd hand, but I belong to an older women traveling solo Facebook page, and a woman posted wonderful photos of her 2 month stay in all 3 countries. She arrived, and hired driver and car from there. (March-May 2023). she had no issues or concerns, but you do seem to have to have an extra helping of patience.
Now, the not so good, but honest, news is that a mask only protects you about 25% of the time. But, mask, distancing and excellent hand hygiene has much better results. As the saying goes - I mask for you, you mask for me. All the oldsters that caught covid that I know were up to date on their vaccines (including me)...in Canada, that means 5 shots. Vaccines typically reduce the symptoms and risks, but only you can determine whether you can stand the risk. These days, most travel insurance cover covid care, and 'trip interruption' if required to stay in one place.
I don't quite know how we got here, but anything covid-related seems to be such a thing of some previous life... And that's coming from someone with 2 Sputnik doses and 3 Pfizer doses (and still catching Omicron some 5 months ago).
Granted, for anyone a bit squeamish or bug-averse, Yerevan might be a little hard to stomach, with their wonderful "always on" drinking fountains everywhere, lots of street food, packs of (friendly) stray dogs, and absolutely positively no masks. Downtown Yerevan is impeccably clean, though. A delightful place overall, really happy to have a chance to go back.
A car with a driver is probably a good call, but their taxis are extremely cheap and efficient (I never had to wait for a Yandex taxi, via Yandex app, for longer than 2 minutes). If it's not through the app, though, it's all about negotiations. I was kinda talked into a cab ride plus "tour" from an airport resident driver, and the "tour" bit boiled down to "look, there is a house with a red roof" kind of thing - and we went right past Yerablur cemetery, he didn't say a word about it...
I am less concerned about Covid now.
I found out on RS, that being over 65 I can get an additional booster shot,
since the last one I got was in Sept 2022.
Here is a FANTASTIC 60 minute from 1 week ago, that shows someone walking in downtown Yerevan.
It didn't erase my fears but it helped.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjI_YgNWxJo
What increased my fears was the following from the US Gov website.
https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel-Country-Information-Pages/Armenia.html
Security Alert – U.S. Embassy Yerevan, ArmeniaMon, 26 Jun 2023
Security Alert – U.S. Embassy Yerevan, ArmeniaTue, 13 Jun 2023
Demonstration Alert: U.S. Embassy Yerevan, ArmeniaTue, 22 Nov 2022
Demonstration Alert: U.S. Embassy Yerevan, ArmeniaFri, 04 Nov 2022
I didn't say before that I am actually going to be staying with my Russian wife's sister in Yerevan,
but she is going to be busy working so she won't be able to be my guide.
Then we are all going to Tiblisi George for a few days and flying out of there for the return trip.
I really am looking for a Guide, for the week in Yerevan.
that I would like to do a Zoom with them first.
Mister E reported the following
Could Mister E or others expand upon the concepts below and likely are they in the next 6 months?
If Armenia ratifies the ICC Treaty or threatens (further) to leave the CSTO; you might reconsider going.
If you are there at the time you might consider gettig the heck out.
If either happens it appears the society is divided enough for their to be a change of starting protests again; and the chance of foreign retaliation for either act is probably pretty real.
ICC
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rome_Statute
CSTO
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Collective_Security_Treaty_Organization
CONCERNING RUSSIA
I have been to St Petersberg 3 times in 1993, 2002, and 2012 adding up to 6 weeks total
and in Moscow in 1993 and 2012 for 2 days each time with my Russian wife and son.
There was no Ukraine conflict and of those times.
I felt completely safe there except for 1 time that I was at a bus stop outside of St Petersberg in a rural area
and I got these hostile stares from some locals. I convinced my Russian friend to drive me out of there rather than taking the bus.
So I guess that anytime I am with a tour guide or some other local,
I won't feel alone and vunerable.
For the ICC, without comment:
https://www.euractiv.com/section/global-europe/news/russia-warns-armenia-against-joining-icc-after-putin-arrest-warrant/
For the CSTO it would require a political discussion that would not be appropriate here. Consider, guess for yourself, how russia might respond. Everyone's guess is fair.
I guess I am a pansy, both situations beyond my risk tolerance, but then, so are places in Mexico and neighborhoods in the US. Just me. Today, I would go in a heartbeat. Wish there was a direct flight from here.
Well, James is probably in a better position to explain what he meant, but i see both eventualities, while possible, not very relevant to your potential travel experience.
Armenia had signed the Rome Statute god knows when. Had to ratify it - and kind of needs to ratify it if they are to seek damages from Azerbaijan. Russians would be quite unhappy if AM ratifies (due to ICC's warrant to arrest Putin more than anything else, haha), but I don't think it would lead to any issues. Free country, their choice.
As to ODKB - Armenians are unhappy with ODKB not stepping in to help overtly over the last conflict with Azeris. ODKB has other things on their plate, so this back and forth and political bargaining will most likely protract for quite some time. Again, if AM decides to leave - I don't think it would turn into anything hot. But, of course, maybe I'm wrong.
ETA: Oops, didn't see James's comment.
Thanks Mister E
for that great Amenian guides Link !!!
6-25-23 walking in downtown Yerevan.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjI_YgNWxJo
Did you watch this video, do you think it is realistic
for walking around Yerevan?
Are there any people in this video that look threatening?
From what I've heard, the people are wonderful. I wouldn't worry. I would probably hire a guide for part of the visit just fit the advantages of a guide. Not for safety.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Didn't see anything remotely threatening, very much how I remember it from August last year.
One thing - on the day I was in Yerevan, they turned the water off in a part of the city (there was a water main break), so several very lively neighborhoods by the Cascade/theater were left without water or sewer for a good part of the day (not good for restaurants), so things like that might happen. And, of course, that's Yerevan - smaller, more remote places look and feel very different, but not in a bad kind of way.
I'm sure you'll have a great time - and please report back after your trip.
This is how I remember it, lively, western, sophisticated. The Armenian diaspora community brings not only money but also outside influence, making this a culturally rich country to visit.
Just wondering - what do you mean by "western"? Not that I disagree with the lively and sophisticated part...