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Apartments: Tips for Cooking Abroad

One of the many reasons we prefer to stay in apartment when we can is just so that I can cook in. I enjoy shopping local food markets. I enjoy cooking. Our fa mily gets tired of even Italian restaurant food after a few nights in a row. So I find it amusing how many people list cooking as a reason not to stay in apartments. Tastes vary.

We do a market run on the way "home" at least every other evening. We stop at a bakery every night for tonight's bread and tomorrow's pastry. The butcher, produce and cheese are often separate stops. Wine stores are heaven. We buy meats that like lamb and rabbit are less common at home. We had frog legs twice in Rome. We sample new cheeses and buy fancy desserts. And this is where we meet people who speak little or no English. Often we buy from the same person over and over.

We bring small stuffable grocery bags to carry our loot in.

I do much in the way of sauted or stir-fried meat and vegetables. I also just bake pre-made roasts. Rabbit wrapped around wild mushrooms and provolone stands out. When I told him how much we liked it, that butcher made us several more different roasts. I choose fast cooking ingredients or things like roast that can cook while we go for a walk. I don't bake because there's always a good bakery.

We pack fruit cheese sausage and bread lunches.

I bring a small camping container for spices and stock it with spices appropriate for the countries we are visiting. But the grocery often has fresh herbs. Most apartments have soy sauce, salt and pepper, coffee, olive oil, sugar and a little flour.

I buy the local equivalent of bisquick to make pancakes and to bread meat and thicken drippings if there is no flour.

We eat out every other lunch and on the first and/or last night in everye location. We have coffee breaks and drinks out.

If you cook in, what do you do?

Posted by
1088 posts

Jen, we do pretty much exactly what you do. We make morning bakery runs for hot fresh baguettes; we always confirm the weekly market days for towns we are visiting and make sure to be in town that day; we buy partially prepared foods to finish up at home. We love the fresh greens and vegetables. By eating at "home", we get enough salads and green foods that you often don't at restaurants. At one wine store in Portogruaro, Italy, we lucked into a balsamic vinegar tasting. We carried an exquisite bottle of it on the rest of our 7-week trip and it made salads special every time we used it. We enjoy historic centres which have small stores for each specialty: dairy, deli, bread vs sweet bakeries, butchers. But sometimes we also like to visit supermarkets. We still joke about how British supermarkets have multiple aisles just for the hundreds of types of "biscuits" (cookies) they carry. And then there was the time in France when we made an amazing rabbit stew and told our younger daughter it was chicken...the simple tomato-and-basil sauce we made one evening after a long day that tasted better than anything we've ever made...the gorgonzola and roasted pepper risotto we made for friends after tasting it in a local trattoria...I find we remember our own cooked meals for longer than we remember most restaurant meals.

Also, when traveling with family or friends, having an apartment and cooking most days provides down time while still being immersed in local culture. It's great to just relax and cook up something simple but local instead of heading out to a late meal and realizing halfway through that you're too tired to swallow one more bite. When we're in an apartment, we can let the teenagers sleep in while we go get a great coffee, then bring back eggs and fresh bread for when they finally get up. No fighting about getting up and moving, because we can choose our own start times. Frankly, staying in a hotel and eating every meal out pretty much defines a bad trip for me. I'll fill in the odd night with a hotel stay as we're changing locations, but our primary stays are always rented apartments or (better yet) home exchanges.

On one memorable home exchange in Germany, my husband went to pork heaven at a local butcher's. We had a wood-fired barbecue in the huge backyard there. He bought various sausages, cutlets, and - forever remembered - seasoned "bacon on a stick" - thick-cut bacon seasoned with paprika and who knows what - on a wooden skewer. What a night that was!

Posted by
6713 posts

Perhaps either or both of you could use the services of a "taster" while on these trips -- just to make sure your creations are at their very best. I am available on long or short notice! ;-)

Posted by
249 posts

As we are both vegan, and have never cared for going out for every meal, this topic is of interest for when we get to Europe next year. I must ask those of you who choose to cook in apartments, how do you find the kitchens to be stocked? I'm asking about cookware and utensils mostly. I do look forward to the local farmers/produce markets.

Donna

Posted by
650 posts

Donna,

How well stocked with kitchenware apartments are varies a great deal. There are always knives a plenty but rarely good ones. There are usually a couple skillets, a couple sauce pans, a small stock pot; and if there is an oven as well as a range, some baking dishes too. Beyond that it's really pot luck. Asking in advance helps, so does looking at the photos to see how large the kitchen is.

Posted by
1088 posts

We've had mixed experiences with kitchens. I agree with Jen that the knives are usually dull. But somehow we always make do. Obviously, home exchanges have better-equipped kitchens than rental apartments, but even they may lack a utensil you consider indispensable. I have a friend who is a personal chef; when she travels to Europe, she takes a custom-made fabric roll containing her favourite must-have cooking items. Since this includes chef's knives, she always checks her suitcase. That doesn't work for me, with only carryon luggage, so if need be, we'll sharpen the knives or buy and leave something we needed. It's all fun on vacation, without the time pressures of home, and the food always tastes good however much we have to improvise.

Posted by
650 posts

Nelly,

You have a great attitude. And I agree some of our most memorable dinners in Europe we cooked ourselves.

Posted by
2579 posts

The apartment kitchens we've had were well stocked. Staying at apartments, my wife ( and kids if they were with us ) could have scrambled eggs and I could have cereal. For dinner we could have simple meals with veggies and fruit that we like.

Posted by
359 posts

We rarely actually cook when we rent apartments, but we love having coffee and breakfast materials at hand, being able to eat our takeout off real plates, and making meals out of all the odds and ends we pick up at markets and festivals.

The big appeal to us of having an apartment is, after a long day of sightseeing, being able to eat at a real table, in our pajamas, while playing cards or boardgames or just talking, then lounging around with wine or beer until bed time.

I like jen's idea of taking spices along. One of the things that keeps me from cooking more often is not having access to all the things I have at home.

Posted by
650 posts

Speaking of spices, I cook more with peppers, onions, garlic, capers, strong cheeses, lemons, and other fresh ingredients that serve the function of spices more in rented kitchens than I do at home. And that is because buying spices that I may end up leaving behind is expensive.