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Advice for 2 1/2 week Europe road trip with 11 year olds

We're working on planning an itinerary for our first trip to Europe with our sons. I thought I'd ask if anyone had suggestions for where along the way we might change tracks, or different experiences with their own children. We're starting in Copenhagen (due to an au pair living there) on June 15th (where we'll rent a car), and departing from London on the 30th.

From Copenhagen we're headed to LEGOLAND. Along the way, I wast thinking of stopping at Middelaldercentret. We wanted to find something to dive into viking history, and that place seems like it might be really cool. The trebuchets mostly. The long boat museum in Copenhagen seemed interesting to me, but I wasn't sure the boys would find it as exciting, so I figured it was optional. Is it worth it? Or is there an alternative I should be looking at?

After LEGOLAND, we were going to head South to the German Tank Museum in Munster. The boys are very interested in tanks, and that museum looks awesome, and it's on our way to the next destination. Over the next 3 days we want to go through the Ardennes before making it to Paris. My wife wants us to go to Brussels. Somehow think the peeing boy would form an indelible memory. On the other hand, it's definitely a detour But if we skipped Brussels, I don't know what to replace it with. I would love to find at least one city to explore in the Netherlands and in Belgium, not least for Pannekoeken, Stroopwafels, and Liege Waffles. I know there's a museum in Bastogne we wanted to stop at, and my wife wants us to go to the memorial there, but I'm not sure that what else. Any suggestions? Is Maastricht a city that we'd enjoy wandering? Or Liege? Or do we just bite the drive time and head to Brussels?

That gets us into Paris on Saturday the 22nd. That day we'd see the landmarks of Paris, and on Sunday we'd visit Disneyland Paris with another former au pair. The next morning we'd start out path toward Normandy, with a detour first to the Musee de Blindes, another tank museum, but this one full of French tanks and several from World War 1. It is a big detour, but my kids are excited, so I am conflicted.

We've been debating Mont St Michel. The photos look amazing, and just the fact that it's the inspiration for Minis Tirith in Lord of the Rings will have my boys psyched. However, it's another detour that adds a couple of hours of driving, and most importantly on the day we'd be able to go, Tuesday the 25th, low tide is at noon. If we waited until high tide at 6pm, we'd be taking time away from Normandy... So would it be worth the detour if we'd hit it at low tide?

Then Normandy. We'd work our way along the coast, finally ending in Cherbourg. There we'd ditch the car and catch the ferry to England. We will catch a train the next morning to London. Once in London we're going to the Imperial War Museum and the Harry Potter Studio tour (with yet another au pair). In all we have 3 days from arrival to departing Heathrow, so there's room to add more there, we just haven't figured out what. I'm not sold on going to the Tower of London. I just don't recall that as something that would be as interesting to 11 year olds - but perhaps I'm off base.

So yeah, that's what I have so far. It's too ambitious in some ways, but vacation time is limited, and it's hard to justify going slower. And when the starting requirements are Copenhagen, Bastogne, Normandy, and London, well that locked us into most of the itinerary.

It's also missing a lot of things that I'd like to figure out how to add. One thing is that I have very fond memories of exploring Conwy Castle in Wales - learning about how castles were designed, and how they were defended or assaulted, was fascinating, and I think my sons would think so as well. But most of the castles that I've found along our route are more the palace type than fortress. Any suggestions?

Posted by
4173 posts

If your boys are interested in tanks then I would 100% recommend the Musée des Blindés in Saumur. They have many different tanks from WWI to Modern and from many different countries too, not just from France. It was a real treat from me, as I am also interested in military history. They have some pretty rare stuff, like a functioning King Tiger Ausf. B and some captured Iraqi tanks from the Gulf War, among many other things. I think that it's one of the largest tank museums in the world, after the Tank Museum in Dorset.

While you are already at Saumur, since you are interested in history, you may want to stop by Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud, which houses the tombs of Richard the Lionheart and Eleanor of Aquitaine, two very historically important people, as you may know :)

The Tower of London may be interesting too, as it houses a collection of arms and armour of various Kings of England, especially Henry VIII (of the many wives). The Tower of London also has a pretty good museum of the Royal Fusiliers, as it is their regimental headquarters.

Posted by
27927 posts

Great research. I'm sure the itinerary, though idiosyncratic, is going to be a big hit. I have never rented a car in Europe and I travel a lot more slowly, so I don't have a good sense of whether you're going to have too many hours in the car. If you have time to add other sights, I'd try to find things that don't add any more miles.

Have you checked out the drop charge you're going to pay when you rent a car in Denmark and return it in France? I'm expecting a very, very large number there.

Posted by
4 posts

I've never rented a car in Europe before either, but am hoping for the best. The fee is high, about $1200, but we couldn't find a workable alternative for where we're trying to go. Flying from Copenhagen to Paris and then circling from there was the closest, but that ate up a lot of time and didn't work out to be any cheaper. I have it mapped out so that the longest day of driving is 5:30 on the road. Really there are two stretches of driving - getting from Denmark to Belgium (two 5-hour days punctuated by the German Tank Museum), and then from Paris to Normandy via Saumur and Mont Saint Michel. That much I hope we can handle with the right books-on-tape. Perhaps we should listen to the first two Terry Pratchett Discworld novels, about that worlds first tourist, and the fine art of communicating with foreigners by speaking slowly and loudly.

I'm definitely excited about the Musee des Blindes - the collection looks amazing. And I had no idea about Richard the Lionheart and Eleanor of Aquitaine being buried there. That would be a whole different part of history to explore.

At the moment the Tower of London is one of the things we're planning to do. I'm slightly ambivalent because my memories of it were dominated by crowds and the crown jewels. But then, maybe we can find a better time of day to go, skip the jewels, and spend more time with the museum and collection. Thanks for reminding me about the other stuff there. And perhaps they'll find the story of Richard III and the two boys fascinating, or at least a good incentive to listen to their parents.

Posted by
1637 posts

"At the moment the Tower of London is one of the things we're planning to do. I'm slightly ambivalent because my memories of it were dominated by crowds and the crown jewels. But then, maybe we can find a better time of day to go, skip the jewels, and spend more time with the museum and collection."

For the Tower of London, be there when it opens (I know, for 11 year olds that may be torture) and you should have about an hour of "relatively" light crowds. If anyone (your wife) wants to see the Crown Jewels, they will be near the front of a much shorter line.

Posted by
6113 posts

You are going to be spending a lot of time in transit which maybe too much for 11 year olds. Have you plotted out your travel times? If using Google maps, add at least 25% as they underestimate.

The boy statue in Brussels is small and completely underwhelming, although there are many good chocolate shops in the city. It’s not worth a detour.

Mont St Michel was the low point of my French holiday last year, as they have ruined the atmosphere of the place by building a road across the tidal causeway. I don’t understand your comments about tides, as this is now an irrelevance.

You haven’t got time to go to Conwy. Bodiam Castle is interesting, but isn’t that easy to reach by public transport.

Posted by
6365 posts

Yes, I would agree that for Mont St Michel, tides are now irrelevant. I didn't see it without the causeway, but we really enjoyed Mont St. Michel and could feel some magic to it as you look out and see this island with a huge monastery taking up the whole thing. Far afar you don't really see the causeway. I got some beautiful pictures at dusk, from the mainland. Now whether it is something you want to take the time for, that's something you'll have to think about.

Posted by
4 posts

Regarding the tides - I wasn't worried about accessing the island. I'd read about the causeway they built. It's that, as I understand it, at low tide much of the mud flats are exposed, so it's less an island than a prominent land feature. I just assumed it was more visually impressive at high tide.

Posted by
33733 posts

At the Tower of London you and the boys may be interested in a lesser trodden path (but do do the Yeoman Warder tour - it is great, the men and women giving it are great, and you wind up at St Peter ad Vincula and it is is the only way to be in that historical place) - have a walk around the battlements. Fabulous views, lots of great exhibits and and about half way around the kids can wear a helmet and touch weapons. Lots to see (a few stairs too) and one of my favourite parts of the Tower.
https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london/explore/battlements

Posted by
33733 posts

You will need an IDP for each driver in France. Fuel hoses have different colours to what you are used to when you are filling the car - don't get them backwards.

Take real maps for the times that the sat-nav has a meltdown.

An excellent demonstration of how a fort can protect itself with sight lines is near Utrecht (between Amsterdam and Utrecht) in the Netherlands at Naarden. Find it on Google Maps and keep zooming in and you will see what I mean. You can walk all around it.

By the way - you have a LOT of driving there.

Posted by
5532 posts

I'm sure the boys would love the Tower of London.

We haven't taken our kids to the Netherlands or Belgium so I can't offer any advice there. Disneyland Paris was, to me, a disappointment but others love it. If your boys are expecting the scale of Walt Disney World in Florida then they need to be prepared for some disappointment.

Are you taking the ferry from Cherbourg to Portsmouth?

Posted by
5493 posts

As the mother of two boys and a veteran of 4 Legoland visits, I must say that I find the rides at Legoland to be geared towards children younger than yours. Maybe have a look as well as the Lego House attraction. It also seems to me that you have a ton of driving in your itinerary. My boys would go nuts spending that much time in the car. Packing and unpacking at a hotel for 4 people every night will be a drag. We typically pick a base for 5-7 days and explore from there when we travel. I would also encourage you to re-think Disneyland Paris. There is so much more unique to do in Paris. Save Disney for Orlando!

Posted by
33733 posts

If you want to cover all the bases in Brussels and not be gender specific, in addition to a costumed boy with toilet difficulties there is also a girl fountain and a dog one, all with similar issues.

Posted by
6931 posts

One of the reasons the car rental fee is high is probably because you are renting it in Denmark and returning it in France, cross border rentals are expensive. If I where you I would return the car in Billund (Legoland) and then take the train to Munster, maybe with a stop in Hamburg to visit the Miniatur Wunderland. And then continue by train, renting cars as you need them for a day or two, but always returning them in the same country. That also saves you the hassle of checking that they are equipped for every country (e.g. when driving in France, you need high visibility vests in the car for all passengers, I'm not sure a car rented in Denmark will come with that as standard, or a German Umweltzone-sticker).

And while Middelaldercentret might be a great place to visit, you are aware that it is about medieval history and not vikings?

Posted by
1217 posts

I took my then-twelve-year-old daughter to Zaanse Schans village, near Amsterdam, some years ago, and she loved exploring through it. We climbed up inside windmills and learned how they work; watched wooden shoes being made, and the man with the pewter shop let her pour pewter into a mold and she made her own pewter spoon! Zaanse Schans is about 20 minutes by train from Amsterdam, so it made a great, easy day trip from that fascinating city. (There is also a chocolate factory and tour in ZS village, but we did not go there.) I would certainly recommend a couple of days in Amsterdam (one of them being to Zaanse Schans), over Brussels for a couple of 11 year olds! There are boat trips on the canals; a "cat shelter boat," a "houseboat museum" a child-oriented science museum, and lots more....Do make your timed entry reservations for the Anne Frank House waaaayy ahead, if you decide to go there.

Posted by
6365 posts

We saw Mont St Michel at both low tide and higher tide. I didn't feel like the impression of the island/abbey was felt that much different. If anything, it was interesting to see the low tide.

Posted by
4173 posts

Since you mention seeing more fortress-like castles, maybe you could stop by Fougères Castle? It conveniently lies on the route between Saumur and Mont Saint-Michel. It was involved in the later stages of the Hundred Years War and definitely has a more "medieval stronghold" feel.

Posted by
3526 posts

As a mom of 2 girls who just spent a month in Europe this past summer with my girls (14,11) I have a couple of tidbits.
We liked moving every 3 to 4 days, but more than that will become tiresome.
When going for long drives, take lots of breaks.
Remember that it is your trip too and not just do things you think your kids will enjoy. You are the one paying for it and frankly, they are lucky to go.
I agree with Emily about Legoland. We have done the one in Carlsbad, CA and the rides are for little kids 0-8 in my opinion and they are VERY short.

Posted by
121 posts

If your boys like Legoland, you could spend a day at Legoland Windsor. It’s kind of fun to compare and contrast the Legoland theme parks in different countries.

Posted by
4173 posts

In lieu of Disneyland maybe you could consider Parc Astérix? I haven't been, but I know that it's the second largest theme park near Paris, after Disneyland. The amusement park is based on Astérix, a beloved French comic book series (one of my favorites growing up). The series is set in Gaul (modern-day France) during antiquity and follows a village of Gauls as they resist the Roman occupation.

The park itself incorporates themes and rides from the "historic cultures such as the Gauls, the Romans, the ancient Greeks and recently the Egyptians" according to their website. Maybe it's worth a look, if you are looking for a more "French" amusement park :)

Posted by
971 posts

Badger makes an excellent point about cross country car rentals. Renting a car as needed and then taking the train for longer distances is the smart way to go, at least that's the way I prefer to travel. His point about Middelaldercentret (located in Nykøbing Falster) being medieval and not viking is also true, it's still a very cool place though. However it is not really along the way from Copenhagen to Legoland in Billund, but if it's something you want to see, then it's just a bit of a detour south. If you do decide to take that detour, your could stop at Vordingborg to see the medieval castle ruins https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vordingborg_Castle and the Danish Castle Centre located there. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vordingborg_Castle. The Castle is a ruin now, with only one of the original nine towers still standing, but it was an impressive castle back in the day.
Regarding Viking sites, I assume the long boat museum you mention is the one in Roskilde, not in Copenhagen. That one is quite good for kids and it's a good day trip by train from Copenhagen.
Another Viking site is the Trelleborg ringfort just outside Slagelse (which IS on the way to Billund from Copenhagen, don't confuse it with the town called Trelleborg in Sweden) https://en.natmus.dk/museums-and-palaces/trelleborg/

South of Billund you can also find the town of Ribe, which was founded by the vikings and is the oldest town in Denmark. It's quite scenic and also has a viking museum https://www.ribevikingecenter.dk/en/home.aspx
Just south of the border in Schleswig, in what is now Germany, you can find the remains of Hedeby, or Haithabu, the largest town in the viking world https://haithabu.de/en/homepage

Posted by
97 posts

We spent 3 weeks this past summer with my 11-year old (and 8 and 5 year old) in England and Paris. They loved the Tower of London - thought the Beefeaters were funny, loved the Crown Jewels, and liked seeing the axe used to behead people. All 3 of my kids love Lego too - they enjoyed the Lego store in Leicester Square in London (and also liked the giant M&M store and Hamley's toy store). They also liked in London the Natural History Museum, cooling off at Hyde Park in the Princess Diana fountain, playgrounds at both Kensington Gardens and St James Park, boat ride on the Thames, and the horse guards.

In Paris, hands-down the highlight for the kids (and me!) was the Eiffel Tower. We bought tickets ahead of time to ride up. Make sure you visit Trocadero at night to see the Eiffel Tower light up. It's just magical. My kids loved the party like atmosphere. They still talk about it. The kids also liked climbing up to the top of the Arc du Triomphe, a Parisian picnic near the Eiffel Tower, and eating yummy crepes and other French sweets.

Posted by
14915 posts

Hi,

How do you plan on getting to Munster/Õrtze to see "Das deutsche Panzer Museum? Where do plan on staying when visiting this museum? Munster/Örtze is a pinhead on the map. The greater area around the town and vicinity is known as the "Truppenübungplatz" where army maneuvers are carried out. This past May I went there again, the last time was in 2001. It has changed. I was disappointed. I mean here the presentation.

The Saumur museum I have not been to by way of comparing and contrasting, but the Bovington Tank Museum in Dorset is far superior to that presented in Munster, which by its name limits what is on display.

A far more comprehensive visit is needed at Bovington. Be prepared to spend the entire day in order to see more than something superficial and cursorily. The German tanks you see in "Das deutsche Panzer Museum" you will see all of them in Bovington, maybe even a few more.

From the train station in Munster to the Museum is ca 30 min. walk if you track it correctly.

Posted by
4 posts

Thank you for all of the feedback! It's funny, I've been working on this itinerary for the past 6 weeks and it felt close to firm, and then I post it, read some comments, and suddenly start thinking of flipping it on its end. The problem has been the starting goals of seeing Copenhagen, the Ardennes, Normandy, and London. It's a 3 pointed star, or 4-year-old's T, or something - regardless, no matter how I tried to sequence things we end up backtracking and spending a huge amount of time on the road. Trying to plot train routes kept leading me to the conclusion that a car was simply the better way to go. I knew it would be expensive, but since the price doesn't scale with the number of occupants (unlike train fares), I hoped we'd end up in the same range. And the trains don't make Denmark to Paris particularly expeditious. What I really want is for my wife to let go of Bastogne. If we can hold it to Denmark, Western France, and London, then the trip can be a lot more coherent.

The desire to see LEGOLAND has to do with my kids love of LEGO, and my wife's memories of the "real" LEGOLAND from her travels 20 years ago. And I was confusing Middelaldercentret with the Ribe center that Morten mentions. So right, definitely Medieval, and all the better for the trebuchets. As to Disneyland, it seemed like a good fit when we first hit on the idea, but I'm definitely starting to resent the lost opportunities. I had read about Parc Astérix. We've never read the comics, but perhaps it would be worth it to do so before our trip. Also, our French au pair just pointed us to Poy du Fou. Has anyone been? It certainly looks like a spectacle. We'd been trying to figure out how to plan for downtime, and while that doesn't look like downtime, it looks like a lot of sitting and watching things, which might be a bit restful nonetheless.

If I can skip Bastogne (and mind you, I'd love to go there, but 16 days is 16 days), we could fly from Billund to Nantes. If we rented a car there, we could hit Poy du Fou, the Musee de Blindes, and then work our way over toward Normandy. We could then find a few places to stop along the way that allow us to explore some of the local culture. Fougères Castle looks amazing, Carlos - and something we'd have had to bypass if we were trying to stick to our original schedule. And Mont St. Michel would be along the route, so we wouldn't need to worry about it.

After Normandy, we could drive to Paris (the Eiffel tower, and the Arc de Triomphe - now that I know about the tunnel). And oh the crepes! Our au pair from France just came to visit us yesterday, and today she made crepes, and we are all growing fat and happy. From Paris we could take the Eurostar train into London. We lose Belgium, but gain 2 1/2 days in France and another day in London (or maybe pull one of those back to Denmark). The airfare looks to be less than the one-way fee on the rental car would have been.

And in London, I'll bow to the collective wisdom that the Tower will be more exciting than I was fearing. Skipping Bastogne does potentially allow us to have an extra day in London though. Any suggestions on how to spend that?

Posted by
5493 posts

My kids love Lego too - heck, we probably could pay for a first year of university with all the Lego we have. Or build a house. But, when we went to Denmark recently with our similarly aged children, we specifically skipped it because that visit always devolves into a frenzy of begging for new sets. The rides are for very small children, seriously. Go to the Lego House instead! Or just go to Orlando next year. We spent time instead going to beaches, castles, art museums and my kids never regretted skipping Legoland.

Posted by
1560 posts

Hmmmmm.......
Car travel monotonous for kids, pain to navigate and adds stress to all.
Plus, video camera tickets is like playing russian roulette with your pocket book.
Leave the driving to the pros, enjoy the views and watch the kids enjoy the train.
At a minimum consider using train travel to get from point A to B and then rent a car for day trips.
"Car travel in Paris" is an oxymoron akin to "military intelligence".
Strongly advise to gain more value of your travels by slowing down, seeing less and experiencing more.
The last thing you want is memories of how the family traveled in contrast to creating wonderful memories of a family journey.
Slow down you move too fast, you got to make the moments last.

Posted by
6931 posts

True, on the train you pay per seat. But, 11 year old children will still get pretty good child discounts, so it will probably still be cheaper to go by train. Especially as you can use the train journey to do other things, something that is harder to do in a car.

Posted by
386 posts

I didn't see it in the other comments, so I will add the AtlantikWall Museum near Ostende in Belgium. The coast there is lovely, and my 12-year-old enjoyed touring the bunkers.

Maybe a combination of train and car rentals? We took the train from Copenhagen to Hamburg, and it goes on a ferry! This is one of the few places where this still happens. Would you pay lower one-way fees from somewhere in northern Germany to Paris (where you don't want a car) and from Paris to Cherbourg?

Two theme parks in two weeks?! I don't know why I ask, since my kid went to three in about a week (Legoland, Aarhus' mini Tivoli and Tivoli). I wish we'd gone to the Lego House, but it wasn't in the cards. Skip Disney and take them to the tank museums.