Hello, My wife and I will be in Vienna in the first week of December and we are trying to figure out if a trip to the Vienna woods for some wine and scenery is plausible in the winter. Rick's book describes a downhill hike from Heiligenstadt to Nussdorf. I'm curious if in winter will wine bars/tasting rooms be open? Also, would hikes be treacherous in the winter (even if the weather is good)? Are there any paved paths? Also, we don't have a car but if it is worthwhile we would consider it. Thanks for the help, Jonathan
This is also a duplicate post. It may be easier for the poster and certainly less confusing for those contributing answers if they are all in one place rather than scattered.
Hi Jonathan. The Vienna Woods are pretty much accessible all year round except perhaps if there is a major snowfall. Major snowfalls are fairly seldom and you are probably safe in early December. In the years I've been here (Snob alert!) deep snow in December has been rare. However it may be cold. It is not uncommon to have daytime temps in the 30s or low 40s F. Smaller Heurigen (wine taverns) may only be open on weekends after 3pm. Some have extremely quirky schedules. But if you go to Nussdorf, Grinzing, or Neustift am Walde, there will be Heurigen open from around noon onward every day. For a real woods experience, best bet might be to take the U4 (metro) to Heiligenstadt (end station) and then catch the 38A bus all the way through Grinzing and up to the top of the Kahlenberg. If the weather is fine, you will have great views. From the top it is about 1 hour (or a bit more) to hike down to Grinzing through woods and vineyards. Then try some of the local wine at a cozy Heurigen in Grinzing. From Schottentor in the 1st district you can also take the 38 tram direct to Grinzing (about a half hour ride). Another option is to get off the U4 at Spittelau and take the 35A to Neustift am Walde, where Heurigen line the main street and vineyards are behind the Heurigen and the woods start just above the vineyards. Yet another option is to take the D tram all the way to Nussdorf (end station. Vineyards but no woods). No matter where you go: Some trails are paved. Some/most are not. I hope you have a good trip. Stay warm! P.S. -- I would not describe any of the trails as trecherous. I'd say easy to moderate. My opinion.
You should have no problems in that area. We were there after Christmas and, though cold, not a bad walk. Head over to Pfarrplatz and see if Mayer am Pfarrplatz is open, if not the Restaurant Englehardt is right next door with good food and wine. Many of the streets branching off of Pfarrplatz have some smaller heurigen as well.
You can take a city bus to and from Vienna NW into the Vienna Woods. They have a number of restaurants that are open year round, and it's especially a good time on a busy weekend night. Food is also very good. The Summer of 1970, we had a large group from Memphis at the University of Innsbruck for summer school. After 4 hrs. at the Vienna Woods, the bus driver picked up a country music radio station playing Dolly Parton and Porter Wagonner singing "40 miles from Poplar Bluff." It was a great break from the Om Pah music he played all the time. Vienna is a wonderful city full of art, music and dance. It's somewhat underrated, but one of our favorite cities.