5 days in Vienna - downtown sightseeing

If you catch a long enough opera (like a Wagner ring opera) you two could actually set up a sweet system where you swap youngin' watchin' duties at each act and still see a substantial amount of opera. I have to admit I was unable to stand for 5 hours of opera so my friends and I bailed on Act II, grabbed dinner, and came back for Act III. That's still about 3 hours of opera for 3 euros, which is an incredible value.

I love Vienna. I see people slagging it on here all the time ("boring"), but good on you for staying a nice long while. My favourite thing is to go to the opera and ballet at the Staatsoper. Line up early for your Stehenplatz ticket!!! In his book, Stevesy recommends some awkward thing where you buy a ticket from someone as they are leaving the opera. Um, so maybe that worked for him because someone recognized him, but believe me, it just leads to you looking like a hobo asking people for opera tickets. They're so cheap already, just get there early! (lesson learned! :)

The public transit is great and it's an easy city to get oriented in.

I'd definitely grab lunch once or twice in the Naschmarkt. We had the best kebab of our lives there :)

The Kunsthistorisches Museum is a don't miss if you enjoy art museums. The history museum is a miss except for the novelty of viewing their mostly-mediocre exhibits in a fabulous palace setting. I've been spoiled by other history museums, but this one was in a beautiful building. So is the art museum, though.

The local set up for renting bikes is really easy but it gets a bad write-up in the 2009 Vienna, being dismissed by Stevesy as too "difficult" for tourists to figure out, or something like that. It was really quite simple, and I got a bike for two hours for cheap, like $2.

I'm running out of room in this post, so I'll have to continue...

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He also sort of mostly dismisses the Prater in that book too, which I don't understand. I only had good weather for it on the first trip out there, but it was a great amusement park. Entry is free and you pay per ride. There are snack stands and places to sit down and eat. The locals gather there in the evenings. I liked just wandering around it at night.

Depending on the weather too is the entertainment outside St. Stephen's. On two different trips we saw a break dancing troupe and a marching band perform out in the square. Both random but delightful things to come across.

The Central Cemetery (reachable by a combo of ubahn and tram) was very interesting to visit and is worth at least an hour. We went on a drizzly day, but it was such a gorgeous place with ornate memorials.

And I agree with the post above, the opera house tour is great. Very informative, and it's nice to actually sit in a chair in the opera house for once without it costing a small fortune :)

So I'm probably forgetting something but I'll come back and add more if something awesome strikes me later on. I really do love Vienna and if I could live anywhere, that would be it!

Thanks, everyone, and wow.. thanks, Tamara.

I have stayed in Vienna once before, but it was so very close to mariahilferstrasse that I didn't make it anywhere else.

We are really excited about this trip. Vienna is so beautiful.

The Fine Arts Museum, but of course during nap time!

Some ideas: don't miss the opera house tour. One of the highlights of the city imho. Visit both palaces since you have some time - Schonnbrun and Hofburg. Hofburg is chock full of different things to see (don't miss the library, just for a quick pop in - the ceiling is as beautiful as people say.)

Sunday mass with the Vienna boys choir, and/or mass later in the day at Stephansdom. - It's worth it to pay a couple dollars for seats at the VBC mass.

It's a bit of a dry visit - but I really liked Sigmund Freud's house.

Picnic out on the island - the little one should love that. =)

Actually attending the opera or a concert is great - but depends on the little one.

Might think of some more as the day goes on - lots of outdoor parks for the little one to Rome around in too. Hope that helps!

I've been following this post with great interest, as we will be in Vienna in a couple of weeks.

Tamara brought up the Central Cemetery (Zentralfriedhof), which is apparently where Beethoven, a few Strauss's, Brahams, and several other "notables" are buried. I'd read about it before, but was a bit surprised not to find any information whatsoever in our Rick Steves Eastern Europe guidebook (I also scanned the Vienna book at the store but didn't see it in there, either).

Anyone have any idea why Rick doesn't show it any love? My understanding is it's a rather large cemetery (maybe even Europe's largest?) and the travelers on forums that I've read generally recommend visiting it. Kind of makes me wonder what else Rick isn't listing!

Sorry to tag onto your thread, Elena, but this has been a burning question of mine!

The cemetery is definitely one of the most compelling things to see in the city. It's outdoor, beautiful, full of historical figures. A tour of the Jewish section is thought provoking and ... well it's hard to describe in words - but worth (all those untended graves).

It should be OK for a toddler as it's all outdoors. =)

I would recommend the Belvedere Palace, once a palace and now an art museum, mostly with Austrian art. The highlight is the work of Klimt. From the child's point of view it is roomy, not crowded, and set in its own park, as well as being next door to the Botanic Gardens. It is not quite downtown, but is still reasonably central.

If you are on Facebook, go to the "Secret Vienna" page. Here, people post their best kept secrets about the city. This is actually a good way to find out inside information about a lot of cities, as most of them have a "Secret" page.

Forgot to add, if you have an ipod touch, the app called MetrO has saved me a few times. You type in where you are and where you're going and it comes up with a public transit route-- no wifi required.

Steve's comment confused me a bit. "Taking the #1 or #2 tram around the ring. They changed that since, its now the Vienna’s Ring-Tram." The #1 and #2 still make a nice sight seeing loop around, but you have to hop off and switch about halfway through. Neither of them makes the entire loop. Given that the price to include the yellow tourist tram for 24 hours is about equal to a weeklong public transit pass, well, I mean it's up to you, but I just ride the regular old tram.

The Zentralfriedhof is rather large, and some guidebook assistance would have been nice... but if I knew where I was going or how to get there, I would have never had the pleasant conversation with an old lady on the tram that I did. For unknown reasons, she directed us in through the 3rd door (Tor 3) and I think that's where my understanding of German fell apart because I don't know what she was trying to direct us to. To find the famous composers, go in through Tor 2, which is pictured here. If I'm remembering correctly you'd go straight then start looking on your left.

Ted has a great suggestion. The Belvedere Palace is on beautiful grounds and has a great art collection. We were just there for Valentine's Day, where they were encouraging couples to kiss in front of the Kiss for some champagne! :D There was a sandwich-sign up encouraging people to yell as loud as possible in the marble room, so if the child starts acting up, head for that room! It's also the room where the Austrian State Treaty was signed in 1955.

Jo- Thanks for the Secret Vienna tip. I haven't seen that page before, but I'm sure I'll be heading back again and this could be useful.

I ran out of room again! One last thing while I'm thinking of it... A very nice tiny-size guidebook that I like to carry is called "Top 10 Vienna" by DK Eyewitness Travel. It has one of the nicer maps I've used, with an alphabetical street listing that tells you where to find it on the map. It has the basics of sightseeing and eating and whatnot, so you can find something (site, food, cafe) near your current location. And it's purse sized, so I don't feel like I'm lugging something around. You might be able to borrow it from your library too.

Is Vienna Card worth looking into?

Good suggestions, all.
I always recommend the Roman Museum at hoher Markt which shows off the city's ancient roots. The City of Vienna Museum by Karlsplatz is uncrowded and also does a good job of walking you through the city's history. Interactive with kids: The Haus der Musik has some good interactive stuff, I am told. The zoo at Schönbrunn is always a hit with kids (took a toddler there last year, and he LOVED the penguins). The zoo has the advantage of being attached to a royal palace. If you are in Vienna from March-Oktober, The Prater has kids rides that are always fun…(Prater is a bit like Coney island)...For a bit of history at the Prater, the Riesenrad (giant old Ferris wheel of "3rd man" movie fame) is worth it. While at the Prater, I recommend SchweizerHaus for lunch…It’s the biggest beer garden in Vienna. Order their specialty: "Stelze" (deep fried hamhock for 2 to share). Another kid suggestion: take the U-1 metro to the Alte Donau and you can rent an electric boat (same if you go to Kopa Cagrana on the Danube/Donauinsel, which is one stop closer). Summer only, of course. Also donauinsel is good for a stroll along the Danube and there are playgrounds too. If the weather is not cooperating, take the little nipper to Dianabad, which is an indoor public swimming pool just across the Donaukanal from Schwedenplatz. It has a "beach" and wave machine and a café for lunch. Go around 10am on weekdays and other moms and toddlers will often be there. Good way to meet local moms. Can be crowded on weekends. (one word of caution: the Dianabad changing room is more-or-less co-ed. Although they have little closets you can step into, most Viennese are not shy in this regard.) Another fun outing is to take the D-tram to the end of the line in Nussdorf. There you can go to real Heurigers within feet of the tram stop and also go for a stroll in the vineyards. Enjoy your visit! (I second Jo's recommendation re: "Secret Vienna". My wife is a contributor.)

Yes, I think it is worth looking in to. I used the Vienna Card on my first trip out there but not on subsequent trips. Each time you have to look at the potential savings.

The VC also requires that you have your coupons handy for some of the discounts. So it's one more booklet to carry around. But the booklet gives you more ideas of things to go see, so that can be helpful! It's how I found a great vegetarian restaurant (Hollerei, near the green line) and got 25% off lunch.

Take a look at your planned site seeing and the cost of the transit pass and you can work out roughly if it's a good deal for you. (The various discounts are listed on this site.) If you'd rather not stress over the numbers, the most reassuring thing I can tell you is that either way you go, you're not going to lose a substantial amount of money. Like, even with the worst possible combination of cards/passes it's not anything to lose sleep over.

Thank you for the Facebook page suggestion.. one problem tough- I don't speak a word of German.

Yeah, that is the downside to that page, but some of it is in English. More importantly, if there is a photo of something that looks interesting, you could add a comment and ask. People are proud of their city, so will of course do a translation for you.

I checked a few other cities, and it seems this is sort of a new movement that has just started to take hold. Give it a bit of time and these pages will be treasure troves of hints and hidden gems. Check your own hometown and see if it is listed yet.

We enjoyed taking a daytime tour of Schoenbrunn Palace and then went back for an evening concert in the palace. The tickets for the concert were sold there at the palace. We also enjoyed the Stephansdom and the "no car zone" street nearby. Lots of shops and street entertainers, which would be fun for your little one. Have fun!

I lived in Vienna for 4 months, then have been back twice for 9 more days -- ~130 days total. I've also done 4 trips with a toddler, 9months up to 25months, also with 13yr old and 16yr old -- but have never done Vienna itself with any kids with me. That being said, and keeping in mind that I'm a big kid.

I'll second these recommendations that I can remember:

Horse drawn carraige near St. Stephen's Cathedral.

Standing Room Opera --just take the kid, see it until they get squirmy, then bolt to...

Sacher Cafe -- Sacher Torte, chocolate cake, adjacent to the Stadt Oper.

Cafe Hawelha.

Ring Tram.

Ones I saw I do not recommend:

Zentralfriedhof -- It's a cemetary, but not really. Much of the cemetary was destroyed many times over by theives who plundered it for the marble and stone. Most of the 'grave sites' are simply memorials. Most honest local tour guides will tell you that the city has very little knowledge of who is actually buried where, stating 'they're buried somewhere around here, so here's the memorial'.

Other options:

Belvedere palace.

Roman Museum (already mentioned?).

***Park accross the street from Schonbrunn Palace. Many go to the official gardens. This space is more of a 'central park'. Local families go there to picnic. If you do the same, guaranteed you'll meet some locals with a toddler -- .

Picnic on the island (already mentioned?).

Anker Clock at the Hoher Markt -- big glockenspiel, just do the 5 minutes to see it at noon one day. (My kids love seeing animated giant clocks...)

Doll & Toy Museum (Puppen und Spielzug Museum) -- Great display of porcelein dolls. Also a puppet show.

Schmetterling Haus am Hofburg Palace (Butterfly house) -- Tropical plants, butterflies, ponds with fish. Great way to include kids in the palace area.

Lipizzan Stallions at the Spanish Riding School -- Trained horses. No shows in peak vacation season (most of July? All of August? Not sure...)

to be cont...

...

Volksgarten -- Big park geared for little kids. Note that there is a wet water-play area if you're there when it is warm.

Reisenrad & Volksprater -- Huge ferris wheel with amusement park.

Prater Park has a 'Lilliput Bahn' -- Park with a miniature train.

Strandband Alte Donau -- Not the 'new Donau' artificial island (above, for biking) this is the old island, and it has a sand beach, roped off from the rest of the river, specifically geared for toddlers. Play area, very family friendly.

Pipe Organ Concert at St. Stephan's Cathedral -- You don't have to stay for all of it, and it might be intense for an 18mo old, but when our son was 25months he LOVED the concert we attended in Salzburg... so much so we had to go back the next day.

Strauss Waltz Dancers -- Something about watching people dance captivates children. For an opportunity to do something cultural that the little one might be able to sit through... give this a shot.

Best wishes for you on your trip -- and very happy to know that you'll include your little one in your travels!!

Schmetterling Haus am Hofburg Palace (Butterfly house)! How could I have forgot that one? Great suggestion. It is really very cool and your child will love it. Exotic butterflies flying freely in a jungle contained inside a greenhouse. My kids still love it and they are almost teens.