One thread---many questions

In the sidewalk cafes I visited, I waited to be seated. I drink wine typically with meals, but I like to have tap water as well. In France, I always was provided a glass free of charge, and filled when needed. At some places, water was served without asking. This was the case when we had hot chocolate. I believe it was also the cases at places where I just ordered coffee.

I can't imagine it would be a problem to take the elevator at the Arc de Triomphe. Also, my recollection is that there was at least one place to stop on the way up if walking, to see exhibits and visit the souvenir shop.

Have fun, don't worry. France is great, people are nice. They appreciate their visitors.

Ill answer about water. You do not have to be drinkers, and its not even a 'thing'. We dont drink and have never given it a second thought. But water is 'with gas' or 'no gas' and it comes in bottle and you are charged. We come back to the states and chug free water like it is mana from heaven :chuckle: Seriously, we could spend 50 euro on water alone if we didnt want to spend 50 euro on water.
Also, as for seating, it really depends on the formality of the restaurant, but many many europeans, especially inservice industries, speak enough english to answer that question if you are uncertain

I can’t answer your questions specifically but just wanted to make sure you knew about Rick’s books. They are like his movies on steroids. Definitely worth the read before you go, and most libraries have them for free.

I agree with Jessica - no problem with no wine and I'm not sure it's common any more. The waiter will want to know if you want "still" water or fizzy water and then will bring you bottled. They will bring you a carafe of tap water but you have to ask. Paris tap water tastes great to me! Sometimes I'll drink a soda at lunch which is not uncommon.

Have a fabulous time!

it is not very common for wine to be part of the meal. That is a myth as a person serving food knows that people with allergies to alcohol go to restaurants too.

While you definitely can order bottled water, still or fizzy, tap water is provided without charge in France. You just have to make sure to specify, TAP water. I have a daughter that doesn't drink alcohol and actually just prefers tap water. There was never the slightest of issue with not ordering a beverage or asking for tap water. Paris' water is excellent. And as an aside, you will see beautiful fountains all around Paris. They are green and rather ornate. It is safe to fill your water bottles at the fountain/bubbler.

Hi, I was at the Arc last year and they will NOT allow anyone without disability to take the elevator. A lady in front of me asked the attendant who was very clear about the rules when she turned her down. I am short (and out of shape) and I made it up the stairs, but it wasn’t a pleasant climb up for me.

At most places we ate, including the cafes with coffee, I was able to ask for a free carafe of tap water. HOWEVER, at two (highly recommended) restaurants, they DID charge me 4,50 Euro for tap water.

Lynn is correct about the Arc de Triomphe elevator, they can be strict that it is only for the truly disabled.

At a café (not a restaurant) you seat yourself, inside or outside. They will see you and will come and take your order, sometimes it takes them awhile so be patient. If you are not eating food, do not sit at a table with tablecloth / placemats and utensils, those are only for people ordering food. If you just want a drink, sit anywhere you want that isn’t set for eating. If you want food, sit at any table you want whether it’s set for eating or not.

A carafe d’eau (pronounced “doe”) Is tap water, legally a café does not have to give it to you for free, but most do. Just don’t be offended if they don’t. I don’t drink alcohol, i just order a bottle of sparkling water or a citron pressé (fresh squeezed lemon juice in a glass - you add your own water and sugar to it to make lemonade - i like adding sparkling water to it rather than the free water they bring with it for you).

I highly recommend going to Versailles on a Wednesday or Thursday when it’s less crowded. Weekends and especially fountain days are packed and i was not impressed with the fountains - not worth it for how much more crowded it is imo.

One more tip you didn’t ask about... the French are wonderful but formal, always say “bonjour madame / monsieur” before speaking to anyone. Always. You will be received better... : )

Take a look at this thread, a little below yours at the moment...

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/france/french-manners-to-intrude-or-not

Thanks to all of the responses so far!

Susan you suggested visiting Versailles on Tuesday or Wednesday and I understand the crowds will be less, but since we did want to see the fountains (silly, huh?) and we will be in Disneyland on Tuesday and Wednesday, we will need to go with the schedule we have so far. Yes, we are big Disney fans and it probably seems silly to go to France to visit the House of Mouse, but we are gonna do it to mark the Paris Park off our list.

I've been learning French phrases and customs so as not to appear a rude American. So far, I've got about 200 phrases under my belt, but probably when I arrive, I'll be so nervous I'll make a fool out of myself. But I'm going to give it my best shot!

Arc de Triomphe -- if you look elderly (and frail ?) they may offer you an elevator ride. I was asked at 63 and turned it down; at 73, I asked whether there was an elevator. Maybe it depends on how crowded thkngs are.
Note that getting to the top requires one last narrow staircase.

Just agreeing with others about the Arc de Triomphe elevators. When my son was 2 and I was carrying him, an operator offered me a ride down. We walked up and I did not ask to use the elevator. It was empty and the attendant offered it to me. A couple of years later, I saw them categorically refuse to let an older couple use it. By the way, what does DW mean?

dmwacu, i don’t think you’re silly at all to want to see the fountains or go to Disneyland Paris, i’ve been to both... : )
Just fyi though, i said Wednesday or Thursday (definitely not Tuesday as the Louvre is closed that day and many people go to Versailles instead).

Good for you learning some French phrases! Do not be nervous, the French appreciate it when you make an effort.
Have a great trip! And say bonjour to Mickey for me.

Sidewalk cafes

I can think of a couple of exceptions but generally you seat yourself. If tables are set for lunch or dinner, ask to be seated.

Arc du Triomphe:

Elevator use is indeed limited and often out of order. For an overview of the city, consider the cafeteria lookouts on top of either the Printemps or Galeries Lafayette on blvd Haussmann. Both are offered with free elevators and the views are fabulous.

Beverages with meals:

Many French consider wine as food and include it often when dining. However, there is absolutely no obligation to do so yourself. Water options include bottled water, flat or bubbling, or tap water served in a carafe.

I love going to the top of the Arc. There is no substitute.

A carafe of free tap water is the norm in Paris. Many places just bring it; I have yet to have a place not bring it when asked. It is the NORM. Locals drink tap water; tourists buy expensive bottled water for no reason. A place that would refuse is probably a tourist clip joint; even in high end restaurants you see locals with lovely carafes. No one needs to drink; no one cares or will 'look at your funny.' And if they did think it strange, so what? they will ask if you want an aperitif, or wine; you say 'no'; no one cares.

The fountains of Versailles are wonderful; note that they run for a short time in the morning and then a short time in late afternoon so plan your day there accordingly.
https://janettravels.wordpress.com/2016/02/15/fountains-of-versailles-a-little-chaos/

DW = Don't Worry....not sure what the meaning was in this thread.

Finally, something I can answer since I haven't been to Paris yet. (Two weeks left)

DW = Darling Wife

Re: waiting to be seated. Based on two very negative experiences, I would not sit anywhere without getting a verbal or visual OK from a server. That could be as simple as catching an eye, and pointing to an empty table, or better, exchanging greetings and asking.

Arc, FWIW: At age 71 (2016), I was using a collapsible cane when we visited the Arc. The moment I finished the security screening, a guard approached and escorted me (and my very fit wife) to the elevator. I hadn't asked and wasn't aware there was an elevator but was pleased to get the ride.

If you're touring Versailles on a Saturday, you might want to see the night fountain show. It requires a separate ticket from any daytime admissions, but it's a great show IMO.
In their words, "the Gardens are transformed to offer a stunning visual and musical treat as fountains and groves come alive with colourful and dramatic lighting effects. This year once more, lighting and stage-effects artists will light up the gardens and display their surprising installations."

It's topped off with a fireworks display viewed over the Grand Canal. We enjoyed it very much.

it is not very common for wine to be part of the meal.

That's not true. I'm not sure when I've had a meal in France where the majority of diners didn't have some wine. We always do What is apparent from observation is that wine drinking at meals has been reduced in France, both as to the numbers of diners who are drinking wine and the quantities they drink. That being said, one would have no issues not ordering wine at a restaurant in France.

While it is true that many or most diners have wine with their meal, the statement was about it being included with the meal, i.e. part of the price. While it is possible to have wine included in the price of meals, the last time I was in Paris specifically I noticed less of the restaurants offering it included. Guess it depends on the restaurant. But even if it is included with the price of the meal, no one will be offended or think you are strange if you choose to not drink it, just tell them you want tap water instead.

And I am curious as to how they determine if you are truly disabled to let you ride the elevator at the Arc? Do you have to be in a wheelchair or will a walking cane be enough? Right now, I don't appear disabled (not needing the walking cane for normal movement anymore), but recovering from hip and knee surgery, I am not able to climb the stairs at the Arc.

Mark, it all depends on who you get at the Arc that day that decides and how well you can communicate with them. You may get someone very nice, or the opposite. My son has a disability that isn’t apparent unless he opens his shirt to show his massive scar from four open heart surgeries. He has heart disease and on a bad day can’t climb those stairs. 1st time we asked to go in the elevator a horrible woman in charge said NON! I speak French and got very upset with her. A nice colleague of hers intervened and let us use the elevator. Several years later, we requested to go in the elevator and we got a nice man who said yes right away. All depends on who you get, how busy they are, how well you can communicate with them. If you have a cane, walker, wheelchair, etc it won’t be an issue.

dm,

A few thoughts......

• Sidewalk cafes - I normally wait to be seated, as that way the server knows that I'm a "new" customer rather than one that's already been served.
• Arc de Triomphe - I've found that the staff seem to have a more relaxed attitude in terms of allowing people to use the elevator. I don't have mobility problems but they didn't have a problem allowing me to use the elevator as they could see that I was "older" (ie: they correctly concluded that the stairs may have been a problem for me).
• Beverages - water is normally provided free with meals. There's no requirement or expectation that diners will always want a glass of wine.

You'll find good answers to a lot of your questions in the RS France or Paris guidebooks. You should be able to find a copy at your local library or larger bookstores.

As susan and some others have mentioned, I think it must depend on who is on duty at the time you are at the Arc as to whether they would allow you to go up in the elevator or not. I know that about 10 years ago when my parents visited, the attendant approached them to offer to let them ride the elevator up.

As for the free tap water at a restaurant table (or cup of tap water at a fast food place), in 13 years of living here I have never been in a place where it wasn’t an option. When they ask if you want sparkling or flat, just smile and say un carafe d’eau, s’il vous plait.

Being very direct here because you do not mention your ages. If you look like you are older than 60ish and ask to use the elevator at the Arc de Triomphe, you have a good chance of being able to use it. If your wife is a short 45 year old, I think the answer will be no unless she is carrying a squirmy toddler or has external indicia of a disability. In my case, I think the elevator attendant envisioned me and my son falling down and blocking the stairway and so was proactive. Personally, I hate having to rely on the kindness of strangers to be able to do what I want so I’d go in prepared to leave if it did not work out and the elevator is a must (lots of great views of Paris are available at places with elevators). I learn something new often on this forum — at 6’ tall, I never knew before this thread that climbing stairs was harder for short adults even though thinking about it, I should have realized it because of the relationship between stair treads and leg length.

I'm glad someone mentioned the views from other places, in case you can't make the Arc view work for you. I am also really short (under 5'), and did make the climb (in my late 40's), but it was a hot summer evening, and it was a lot for me. I remember it took a while to get my heart rate back to normal. The view was wonderful, and we timed it to be there at sunset. Our photos have me with a beet red face and so sweaty...lovely! Ha. It was hard on my husband's knees, too. That was the trip that we decided to take the buses more than the metros to avoid staircases.

The top of Printemps department store has a small cafe, and nice views across Paris. Our family enjoyed that on a really hot day - we were in the store for a while to cool off in the AC, and then had our lunch on the rooftop. We were visiting in the heatwave of 2015, and it was so very hot that it changed some of our "walk all over the city" plans significantly. Like spending 6+ hours in the Louvre...and sitting in the Frigidarium for a long time in the Cluny.

We asked for "une carafe d'eau, s'il vous plait" at every place we ate, and were never charged for it.

One place that you might enjoy for a cafe experience is Cafe de la Mairie by Saint Sulpice Church in the 6th. We had a late night cafe and mousse au chocolat treat that was so great, and we could see the church lit up and enjoy the beautiful fountain. That was our first night in Paris on our second honeymoon, and it was a sweet way to end the day. Lots of people must have also stopped at Pierre Hermé for lovely pastries nearby, as there was one bench by the fountain that was covered with tiny elegant PH stickers! That was a nice area to explore.

Have fun!
Laurie

Thanks again for all these suggestions and experiences! My DW (Darling Wife) is 61 and I am 64. I would not have a problem climbing the stairs as I walk a LOT each day (listening to my playlist of French phrases, lol!) but she is in great shape. It's just her 4'11" frame makes so many stairs very difficult to ascend. DS (Dear Son) will also be with us, and although she has said we could go to the top and she would wait, THAT'S not gonna happen! I would never enjoy the view with her so far away from me in a place where she could not communicate very well.

"L'eau du robbinet" means tap water. Previously, a waiter nodded to me and smiled, "Ah, 'Chateau Chirac.'"

Since no one else has mentioned this, my memory must be wrong, but I thought there was still one flight of stairs after the Arc de T elevator top station.

Actually, Laura B mentioned that final set of stairs in one of her responses.

I go by what I want at the moment in regards to drinking a glass of wine at lunch or dinner. If i do want to enjoy a glass with the meal, then I order it. If i don't, then I order a mineral water.

Most of the time I do just that...order a mineral water and an espresso at the very end of dinner.

r.