Please sign in to post.

The Dorset Coast based in Poole

We have the opportunity to base ourselves in Poole for 2 weeks in late July 2022. We will visit other locations further afield after we leave Poole. We haven’t spent any time in the southwest of England. We may have a car for part of the time but we will have good access to the South Western Railway system and busses. We will be near ferries that can take us down to Guernsey, Jersey and on to St Malo, France. If you have any ideas about visiting Guernsey and/or Jersey we’d like to hear your opinion too. I think we’ll fly directly to and from London.

We understand that Poole may not be anyone else’s ideal location to explore the southwest for the first time but it is what we think we’ll do. If you have favorite areas, towns, historic sites and pubs from Dorset to Devon and maybe as far as Cornwall please share them with us. A must see for us is Lyme Regis and the Jurassic Coast. I’m starting to guidebook shop too.

We will be able to take the train between Poole and Waterloo Station for our travels to the east in about 2h. We will buy a Two Together Railcard and plan to use it often as some of our favorite Thames towns are along this Poole to Waterloo route.

Once we’ve figured out where we want to go for the last two weeks of our trip we may have more questions. Thanks for any recommendations!

Posted by
28249 posts

I spent two nights in Poole in 2017 because I planned to arrive in England by ferry from Jersey. It didn't work out that way (3 days in a row of ferry cancellations in the summer--beware), but by the time I realized I needed to fly instead, it was too late to get a refund on the room in Poole. (It was foolish of me not to go ahead and cancel anyway, without a refund, so I didn't have to scramble to get from Luton Airport to Poole, but under pressure one doesn't always think clearly, or at least I do not.)

Poole isn't an awful place, or unsafe, but it seemed to be a down-market beach town. I will be interested to see what other people think, but there are very, very few places in Europe that I wouldn't want to revisit, and Poole is one of them.

There are other places along the coast that are much nicer, I think. I'm not the best person to suggest an alternative, having spent very little time in the area, but I thought Weymouth was fine, though nothing remarkable. While there I went to the Abbotsbury Sub-tropical Gardens and Portland Island (art in situ). Both those trips involved considerable walking but were worth it to me.

I stopped briefly in Bournemouth to see the Russell-Cotes Art Gallery and Museum [name corrected]. Bournemouth was attractive. Lyme Regis looked better than Poole when I passed through it on a bus, but I didn't see much of it.

If you do end up in Poole, one thing I can recommend is the Compton Acres Gardens. They were very nice.

Moving west, I enjoyed the one night each I was forced to spend in Exeter and Truro due to not having booked lodgings far enough ahead of time to get something affordable on the coast. They both seemed to be nice, real-world towns with some interesting historic architecture.

My coastal stays were in Mevagissey (convenient to The Eden Project and the Lost Gardens of Heligan) and St. Ives (very touristy, but a good place for lovers of ceramics and art). Anywhere coastal in Cornwall requires locking down reservations as soon as you can. And you need to book for dinner, too, unless you want to consume food purchased from a grocery store or a fish-and-chips truck. Believe me, it's not just fancy restaurants that get booked up.

It sounds as if you plan to do the entire trip by public transportation, as I did. It's workable but will be slow in Cornwall, especially, because the buses don't follow the coastline (probably the roads don't, either). A lot of the buses I used were double-deckers, which offered a great view of the countryside from the upper deck, because you could see over the hedges lining so many of the roads.

I'll post again with some ideas for Jersey. I have a couple of errands to run right now.

Posted by
9265 posts

Lyme Regis is great.

I Loved sitting in the small Aroma Cafe watching bus drivers negotiating the tiny street outside. Sadly, I’ve been told the cafe has closed.

The Jurassic Museum is small but well done. I was there off season so only 2 other visitors.

I did enjoy meandering along the Cobb. Enjoyed fish and chips takeway from Herbies. There are good take away sandwiches at the Lyme Regis Sandwich Co. Its across the pathway from the Royal Standard.

Bought Christmas gifts for friends pets at the cute Pug and Puffin pet store. Got fudge from Rollys. Enjoyed a pint at the Royal Lion Inn.

Stayed in an AirBnB apartment above a resident’s garage. Nice stroll from there to The Nags Head pub which is across the road from the St Michael’s Catholic Church. From the AirBnB also walked up the road to the Black Dog Tea Room for scones, jam, and creme.

I had a car and drove there from Heathrow. If memory serves about a 3.5 hour drive.

Enjoy.

Posted by
28249 posts

OK, Jersey.

I went to Jersey, Guernsey and even Sark (day trip) back in the 1970s. I know I enjoyed them all but remember no details. I decided to return to the Channel Islands in 2017 but didn't want to spend more than five nights there. In this Internet era it's easier to find out about things to do and see, and I quickly realized five nights wouldn't be enough time to give full attention to both Jersey and Guernsey. I did some research and ultimately chose Jersey. As I recall, the decision was pretty close to a coin flip, because both islands have multiple points of interest.

As I alluded to in the earlier post, it would be a mistake to assume the ferries are totally reliable. I've made two trips to the Channel Islands, over four decades apart. Both trips fell between late May and early August, so one wouldn't expect weather to be a significant problem. Still, two of my five ferry legs were canceled, one of them three days running. One cancellation was out of St. Malo; the other, out of St. Helier (Jersey) headed toward England. Each cancellation costs you at least a day unless you can get to a different port from which the ferries are running.

These are among the places I went on Jersey:

  • Eric Young Orchid Foundation: Gorgeous orchid displays by multi-time winner at Chelsea Flower Show.
  • Jersey War Tunnels: Includes museum and very nice memorial to the maltreated POWs forced to build Nazi fortifications.
  • Jersey Zoo: Founded by Gerald Durrell; focuses on conservation of endangered species and the environment.
  • La Hougue Bie: Neolithic site/passage tomb with small museum.
  • Samares Manor: Botanic gardens.
  • St. Aubin: Coastal town.
  • Jersey Museum: Interesting enough, but not absolutely mandatory if you're short on time, I'd say.

I reached all those places by bus (the museum's right in St. Helier), but the buses weren't super frequent, so it wasn't possible to cram a bunch of different things into one day without using taxis (or a rental car). I didn't explore local bus tours.

Edited to add: Our poster Caro lives on Guernsey and has generously shared tips in the past from a local's point of view. Here are a couple of threads she contributed to. You can find others with the Search function. In addition, I'd suggest either editing the thread title to include "and Guernsey" or starting a new thread to be sure Caro spots it.

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/england/guernsey-014871ed-c0c4-4c4a-b546-a09bc161423c

https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/england/guernsey-visit

Posted by
3124 posts

Funny, we ended up in Poole because our ferry from Caen (Ouistreham) was canceled. We raced to Cherbourg to catch the only ferry leaving that day, not knowing anything about Poole except that it was on the English side of the channel. The reason for the cancellation, we later learned, was a French dock worker strike.

We found Poole to be a fairly pleasant beach town. The Hotel du Vin was nice and I have to highly commend their front desk staff for helping us figure out how to change the reservations for our rental car and other arrangements, we were so disoriented when we arrived.

Posted by
28249 posts

I've thought about Poole some more and decided it left me with the impression of a town on the decline--economically depressed. Again, that was in 2017. And I could have been totally wrong-- it was just an impression, and I'd had an annoying travel day to get there.

Posted by
2599 posts

Lulworth Cove & Durdle For is a spectacular bit if coast just a few miles SW of Poole. Nearest good beach to Poole is Sandbanks.

Poole is not on the main line railway going west to Devon & Cornwall. It is on a rather slow line that terminates at Weymouth. You can go west by train by changing at Dorchester and walking to Dorchester West station for another slow line going north - which you would have to change at Castle Cary for the Great Western Main line to Devon (Exeter) & Cornwall. The alternative is to back track east to Southampton and then train to Salisbury (worth seeing) from where another line goes west to Exeter & beyond.

Posted by
4116 posts

Thank you all for information on specific towns to visit, gardens, cafes, ferry and train transportation tips! Much appreciated. Looking forward to exploring the region this summer for the first time.

Posted by
1869 posts

Three spots we enjoyed - I think all are in Dorset - the swannery, Corfe Castle, and Maiden Castle which is actually a hillfort.