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Croatia Itinerary Help 2

This is such a departure from the first post, that I think it's best to start over.
Original post: https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/croatia/croatia-itinerary-help-b0ff269c-0f62-4593-ab95-fbf004b40e52

I was worried that all the time on the islands might be too much and we have enjoyed the central european citiies the we've visited so far.

Does this make any sense? Are there any possible pitfalls I didn't think of? Avoidng intra-trip airports, I don't think all the travel early on will be too bad. With this way, we get to see Ljubljana and quick taste of Zagreb and Plitvice sounds pretty amazing. We slow down a bit at the last 6 days with just Hvar/Dubrovnik.

Days of week may change depending on flight schedule from NYC
Fri morning arrive Ljubljana
Fri night Ljubljana
Sat night Ljubljana
Sun morning/afternoon train to Zagreb (how can I find the train schedule?How do I buy tickets?)
Sun night Zagreb
Monday 7am Nova rental car in downtown Zagreb
Drive to Plitvice arrive 9am
Leave Plitvice 2pm
That's probably barely enough time for Pllitvice, but I think it'd work.
Arrive Split 5pm and drop off car at Nova location at Split pier
Catamaran to Hvar 6pm
Mon night Hvar
Tue night Hvar
Wed morning ferry to Korcula
Wed night Korcula
(could just stay 3 nights in Hvar as well)
Thur morning catamaran to Dubrovnik
Thur night Dubrovnik
Fri night Dubrovnik
Sat night Dubrovnik
Sun home

Posted by
4630 posts

We have stayed at B&B Andio a few times. They are located just off the stradun, meaning no steps. But there are steps inside.

Your one day from Zagreb to Hvar reads crazy tight to me. Plitvice is lovely but I really don’t think it is worth the hassle. You’d be rushing through. We haven’t visited Plitvice since 1978 and don’t plan on going anytime soon because of the crowds.

Posted by
74 posts

Yes, I think I'll still with B&B Andio in Dubrovnik.

I realized I can rent the car the night before so we can actually be on the road by 7am. That should give us a solid 5 hours in Plitvice. I know not perfect, but from what I'm reading, I think that will be enough time.

Overall, I think that I'm very happy with this itinerary over the previous one. There's more travel here, but it's pretty manageable and we get to see more different things.

Only thing i'm still not sure on is would it be better to do 3 nights in Hvar, 2 nights in Hvar, 1 night in Korcula or 1 night in Hvar and 2 nights in Korcula. 3 nights in Korcula is probalby not an option because the last catamaran on Krilo from Split to Korcula is 5pm. Unless there's a different company that has a later option?

Posted by
23341 posts

we have enjoyed the central european citiies the we've visited so far.

I will throw out that there are direct flights on Ryan from Budapest to Zadar and Zadar is closer to Plitvice. And Zadar is one of those locations that is very special but the tourists havent mobbed yet.

Posted by
112 posts

The Nova website says that they open at 8 am. It will take at least half an hour to get on the road. FYI, When we returned a car there they had a very small sign--don't freak out if you don't see it right away! I think you should take the train to Zagreb, sight-see a little if you want, ,rent the car and spend the night near Rastoke. There's a beautiful river to walk by for a few hours, then have dinner. Reserve Plitvice tickets for opening time, it's a 30 minute drive. Bring sandwiches. You can be finished by 1:00 and have time to get to Split. We left Plitvice about 12:30 and were shocked at the lines of people all along the boardwalk--it was lovely earlier in the day. For the islands, it's so hard to choose. We enjoyed 3 nights on Korcula but it might be nicer to spend 3 nights on Hvar. It depends on what you want to do. Why bother getting off the boat and checking into another place just to see the town for a few hours?

Posted by
74 posts

As far as the rental car, I figured out that I could rent the car the night before and park it at the hotel and then we can be out by 6:30 or 7:00 on the road. That makes that day way more manageable even if we stay in Zagreb.

As far as the islands, it definitely would feel like more time to do all three nights in Hvar,. Like if we don't switch Islands, it keeps open the possibility to do a morning full day excursion the second day in hvar. But on the other hand it would be nice to see korcula too and going to korcula cuts off time for the catamaran to Dubrovnik so it does make some sense. Still not sure what we're going to do with that.

Posted by
1210 posts

Hey, I don’t love love it but you’re maximizing your time. It’s not out of bounds crazy.

Take the bus from Ljubljana to Zagreb. That train sucks. Check out Flixbus. Cheap, reliable and comfortable. Departs from Ljubljana train station. In Zagreb, it’s a quick tram ride .(53 cents) to Jelevic Square from the bus station.

At Plitvice, start with the lower lakes (entrance 1 i believe). This section has the largest and most dramatic falls. You can also have pretty direct access whereas the upper lakes you park further away and you have to take a little boat over to the trail. More time consuming. Krka park is also on the way to Split and might make another nice stop for a break.

Stay all three nights on one island. Give yourself a minute. Don’t overthink this part.

Posted by
5814 posts

+1 for Flixbus from Ljubljana to Zagreb.

As someone who has spent a lot of time in Zagreb, I would suggest skipping it entirely as the other places on your list are much, much more appealing. Two full days in Zagreb is too much.

Posted by
74 posts

Appreciate the input.

I will look into the bus. Is that going to be a much longer trip then the train? I would have preferred to avoid buses. The train is that bad? It doesn't originate in Zagreb so the timing can be off?
EDIT: Flix bus from Ljubljana to Zagreb looks to be only 2:05 and there are times all day. Yes that's got to be better than train that may be unreliable. Are the buses modern and clean? How's the clientele? I can bring luggage? We are at Hotel Durbrovnik so that should make things easy for tht transit.

Deifinitely wouldn't have enough time to stop at Krka.

For Plitvice, I was told entrance 1, tour C will be best and should take around 4-5 hours, which we'll have.

Yes, for the island, I agree now, I think we'll just do 3 nights on Hvar. That way day 2 is really an end to end day in case we want to do sometling like all day boat excursion to the caves and beaches. Hvar is only 55 minutes from Split and Korcula is like 2.5 hours, that day is long as it is, we'd get to Korcula too late, so Hvar it is. We'll have the longer trip down to Dubrovnik later, but we have enough time there.

@emily, it's about 10 hours in Zagreb this way not 2 days. Arrive on bus from Ljubljana maybe around noon and leave for Plitvice 7am the next day.

I'd like to do Plitvice, not sure how we could get there and then to Split without renting the car in Zagreb. If anyone has any suggestion for that, please share. If I could get from Ljubljana to Plitvice to Split without Zagreb, I could then do an extra island night.
EDIT: With a more reliable way from Ljubljana to Zagreb, I'm good going there for the afternoon/night and then renting a car. I don't see way to get fom Ljubljana to Plitvice to Split. One way car rental price is exhorbitant.

Posted by
5814 posts

EDIT: Flix bus from Ljubljana to Zagreb looks to be only 2:05 and
there are times all day. Yes that's got to be better than train that
may be unreliable. Are the buses modern and clean? How's the
clientele? I can bring luggage? We are at Hotel Durbrovnik so that
should make things easy for tht transit.

I am an upper middle class American woman and I take Flixbus all the time. Clientele is the same as you would find on a plane - people take the bus because the trains are so bad. The buses are modern and clean. I recommend paying extra to reserve your seat and to also reserve the seat next to you for extra space. You can take luggage, which goes under the bus. Everyone takes luggage.

Posted by
74 posts

This is great then. flixbus it is! I was worried about the train after seeing someone else post bad about it elsewhere. Why are some of the buses 2:05 and some 2:45 but all are direct?

Posted by
5814 posts

Probably the routing has a required stop for the driver?

Also, once you arrive in Zagreb, I recommend using an Uber to get to your hotel.

Posted by
74 posts

I had seen that Uber was good in Croatia. I will remember that for when we go.

So this is what I've wound up with:
Friday noon arrive Ljubljana (Occidental Ljubljana), 2 nights, AM Flixbus to Zagreb (Hotel Dubrovnik), 1 night, rental car to Plitvice (entrance 1, tour C), after drive to Split, 6pm catamaran to Hvar, 3 nights (Violeta Hvar, this may change), AM catamaran to Dubrovnik (Bed&Breakfast Andio), 3 nights, early am to airport.

I really do appreciate all of the input. I know this might not be the most "normal" itinerary and wouldn't work for a lot of people, but I plan never knowing if we'll get back to the region again so there are things I wanted to see and I really like what I came up with. The beginning is a bit rushed perhaps, but overall the travel isn't too bad, buses, car rental and catamarans don't have too much of a time penalty to get to/from. The 2nd part of the trip is 2 places, 3 nights each so more relaxed.

Very excited!

Posted by
4630 posts

We’ll just be missing each other David. We arrive in Zagreb on September 26. Have a fun, relaxing trip.

Posted by
23341 posts

Just the city tour. I dont think she goes beyond Dubrovnik, but you can ask her. Here is a review on her (towards the bottom): https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/croatia/best-city-tours-guides-for-dubrovnik-and-for-llubljana

For the region outside of Dubrovnik I use the other contact I listed. Looks like I will see both again in September. Oh, didnt post it, for the Balkans, Dijana Krkotic, Guide & Tour Designer, Doclea Travel, +382 69 277 749 (whatsapp), [email protected], www.docleatravel.com and ask for assistance.

Posted by
1 posts

I just came back from a 3 week vacation in Croatia. I wanted to recommend if you rent a car on Hvar to check out Stari Grad and Jesla. Beautiful coastal cities. We went there early evening snd strolled around and ate dinner. The drive is very winding but beautiful views.

Posted by
74 posts

We won't have a car in hvar. We'll have three nights and basically two full days there, is it worth taking a bus over there and back or should we just stick to havar town with the time we have?

Posted by
17 posts

Nova is now Sicily by Car. If you are renting from city centre location look for Sicily by Car on the sign. It still says Nova but sign is smaller.

I use Bolt instead of Uber as it is a little cheaper. If you are going from bus station to city centre it will be very short ride. Hotel is in pedestrian area so you will need to walk a little bit from your drop off point. 6. tram will take you directly to your hotel though.

Sorry about the train advice and the Zagreb advice, there is nothing wrong with Zagreb to Ljubljana train. Most trains in Croatia are not very good, that is one of the exceptions. There is also plenty to do and see in Zagreb. However it looks like you will be in Zagreb on Sunday. Croatian law means most shops are not open on Sunday, you are only allowed to open several weekends a year. On the coast this is tourist season but central Croatia is around Christmas generally. Restaurants and caffé bars will be open. My advice would be to bring lunch for Plitvice given time constraints but this will take some planning.

If you miss catamaran to Hvar it looks like that may be last one of the day? If that happens just use booking.com and book a night somewhere in Split and take one the next day.

If you do not have a car I would not want to rely on public transportation myself for Hvar.

Enjoy your trip.

Posted by
74 posts

@Ivan that's all very helpful information.

I think we are fine with the bus to Zagreb. At least according the timetables, it looks like that's a faster trip than train and proably less chnace of a long delay. Are you saying that the 6 tram will take us right to Hotel Dubrovnik and that would be better than Bolt or Uber, even with a large suitcase?

Whats the best way for me to get from Hotel Durbovnik to pick up the car at Sicily/Nova? Hotel Dubrovnik includes parking and has given me the address of the lot that we are supposed to use.

Yes, Sunday is not ideal for touring Zagreb, but if restaurants and cafes are open through dinner, we'll be able to enjoy our short time in Zagreb. Plus I see that the Museum of Broken Relationships is open on Sunday, so we'll probably check that out as well. Will Tkalčićeva still be pretty lively on a Sunday evening? I figure we'll walk down there after I get the car and find a place to eat.

Any suggestions on somewhere/something to grab to bring for lunch at Plitvice? At worst, the hotel offers breakfast and it opens prior to us having to head to Plitvice. We can probably grab enough there to hold us for the day. We'll have a dinner reservation in place for once we finally reach Hvar.

I sure hope we don't miss the last catamaran, but I'm sure we can find a place to stay in Split if that does happen, though we'll be out the cost of the apartment that night in Hvar. The plan would be to be on the road to Plitvice by 7am and then back in the car heading to Split by 2pm. I think that give us just enouh time in Plitvice (seems like we can do tour C in about 4 hours if we move along at a decent pace) and that should give us enough time to safely make the 6pm catamaran. Would you agree?

Posted by
17 posts

Can you pick up car on Sunday? It will be more expensive since you will have it longer and will need to use Hotel Dubrovnik parking but it means you can wake up and drive and also not have to worry about getting to Hotel Dubrovnik. Nova office is 300m from the main autobus station so you can get off the bus and rent the car very easily. Just exit the station, cross street at station tram stop, turn right and agency should be on the left. If bags are heavy just get on any tram and take it one stop to Nova. I would not even worry about getting ticket, it is maybe one minute long ride. If first tram is not low floor tram just wait for another, most are low floor.

Otherwise you are right you probably should take Bolt or Uber. I would always take tram but you are in a new city for the first time. Do not just get in a taxi. Use the application. Taxi drivers take advantage of locals too. Obviously not all of them are bad but it is a problem. You can take Bolt or Uber to Nova or just catch 6. tram to Držićeva, it runs every 10-12 minutes even early in mornings.

If you can leave Zagreb by 7am you should be okay, you can always cut Plitvice short if you need to. Only concern is if there is a problem with traffic somewhere. Nova city drop off in Split is by the port so that is fine, but I would leave Plitvice a little earlier than 2pm because drive is just under three hours and if boat leaves at 6pm you need time to drive, drop off car, and walk to port.

Restaurants and kafići are generally open Sunday as they are exempt from the law so you will be fine. The problem is about grabbing something for lunch because it is Sunday. See if hotel will pack you a lunch, otherwise Dubravica is across the street, I do not know at what time they put out sandwiches as I am rarely there before 8 but you could easily get food there. Bakery open at 7. It is probably best of the bakery chains and is more "local" than the other chains.

Tkalča should have people out on Sunday evening, it is popular spot to have coffee. However it is touristy spot in the city, so many restaurants cater more to tourists than to locals. It is worth walking down though and maybe having a drink but there are better places to eat.

If you want to eat good Croatian food on Sunday evening upscale restaurants I can recommend which are open Sunday include Vinodol, Boban, Pod Zidom, Lanterna na Dolcu. Ficlek is part of Pod zidom and is more casual. I have not been to Didov san in Gornji grad but I have heard good things. La Štruk is also recommended but it štrukli restaurant. If you want to eat on Tkalča, Batak is local Croatian grill restaurant with many locations around Croatia. And if everyone just wants pizza walk all the way down Tkalča to Duksa.

Posted by
74 posts

@Ivan
I am picking the car up on Sunday, I was just planning on doing it between 5:30pm and 7:30pm to avoid paying a 2nd day (which would cost about 50 euro more). It's a bit a pain to go back and pick up the car then, but I will not be dealing with the rental agency and losing time in the morning on the way out of Zagreb. Uber/Bolt back to pick up the car looks like it'll be quick/cheap trip. Yes, had some bad taxi experiences in Rome recently, will use an app for sure.

Maybe we can get out of Zagreb a bit ealrier if we were down for breakfast by 6:30 and grab stuff and go. I don't think the car will be parked right there either so it'll take some time to get the car. Or we just skip hotel breakfast and make sure we are on the road by 6:45. Noted that maybe it's safer to leave Plitvice by closer to 1:30pm.

Noted about the food on Tkalča. I had a feeling about that. Still, with limited timed, we may trade off having a perfect meal with getting to see Tkalča. We can probably stroll Tkalča before dinner though and then find somewhere better for dinner. I'll take a look at you recommendations.

For the Plitvice day, I'm sure we can grab something somewhere to hold us over until dinner on Monday.

Posted by
17 posts

That plan sounds good. Hotel Dubrovnik parking lot is close to hotel, it is one of very few parking lots in centre city.

Also if you only have a few hours in Zagreb I would rather walk through Gornji grad upper town than Tkalča. You can do both easily, just if you have to pick one, do the upper town.

Posted by
74 posts

Are some of the restaurants you suggested in upper town? In that case we could do the touristy street in the afternoon and up town for dinner time. If our bus is on time, we should have plenty of time for both and the museum of broken relationships.

Posted by
74 posts

Lanterna na Dolcu looks closed on Sundays, but I liked that menu.
Boban looks good.
Any thoughts on Restaurant Konoba Time4wine Zagreb Gornji Grad? That menu looks pretty good and I see good reviews.

Posted by
17 posts

I honestly did not know about Time 4 Wine and I am often in Gornji grad. I will have to try it.

All of this is close together too so you can decide on the day.