Dubrovnik has been thoroughly discovered by tourists and cruise ships, so the usual RS guidelines apply:
• Don't eat anywhere on the main drag, in this case called the Stradun
• When you see a line to get into a spot in one of the smaller alleys, consider whether it is because the place is good/special or because it has been hyped all over social media.
M'Arden is a wine bar up a few staircases south of the Stradun, roughly towards the ethnographic museum (in a former granary storage warehouse, and in flux this summer) where you will find a raised terrace covered in a pergola with grapevines and leafy trees.
They do have instagram and facebook pages so go sooner rather than later, before the cruise crowds show up.
Local reviewer says this: "Zen garden in the heart of the Old city. Calm and cozy place to escape the world. Staff is welcoming and well educated,"
Have a charcuterie plate with a glass of wine. On my recent visit in late May, I was trying every version of Travarica that I could, and theirs was good, but they had an Istrian amaro that was excellent.
Forgive them for the florid English version of the menu; just use the Croatian one.
Like many hidden gems that Rick's guidebooks mention, you'll be delighted to be above the fray for a few moments.