8/29 - Covid test day via online Binax Now and eMed proctor. First, getting the hotel to stabilize the Wi-Fi connection in our room. Once that happened, it was smooth sailing on the laptop we brought along and kept in the room safe. Negative test results revealed and documented. It took us about 1.5 hours, with trouble shooting and dawdling and whatnot.
Walked to Amalfi. Bought sandwiches in a deli. Boarded Ferry to Positano. No Green Pass required. Shopped for men’s loafers and a wallet from Florence. Stopped at the same cafe for Granita di Limone with temp check. Met our skipper from Crapolla Charter for a sunset cruise to Li Galli. Beautiful night for a cruise among the yachts with Prosecco and snacks, including fresh figs, and Julio Iglesias singing about Positano.. Stopped for a Spritz. Shopped for ceramics. Taxi to Atrani, 90€. Dinner at Le Arcate. More nightlife on Piazza Umberto in Atrani.
8/30 - skipped hotel breakfast in favor of sleep. Walked to Amalfi to meet the Lemon Tour Experience. Stopped for quick espressi and a warm cornetto (crema).
While waiting for the lemon shuttle we realized we were a day early, but the owner graciously accommodated us after checking with his staff. Lovely tour of the scenic lemon terraces, followed by lunch with wine and limoncello.
Strolled down hill and shopped for limoncello, finocchietto, marmalatta di limone, balsamic, lemon balls, and the elusive caper. Walked back to Atrani for a Spritz on the square.
Began packing bags for return home, soaked a spell in our jacuzzi tub at the hotel. Dined and partook in the nightlife at one of the restaurants on the square, Il Veliero.
8/31 - final day reserved for Ravello. Taxi to Ravello arranged by hotel for a jaw dropping 60€. The driver was lovely, well dressed, but would have preferred someone a bit grittier for 40€. Skipped breakfast at hotel in favor of a huge last lunch at RS recommended Salvatore. 125€ later, a stroll to the Infinity Terrace, more shopping, and a Spritz on the square. 40€ return taxi to Atrani.
One last dinner at Le Palme with Limoncello and Lemon Delight. One last saunter in the moonlight along the promenade. We were surprised to enter the square later in the evening and find a trio from the barbershop making music and singing to the locals. Night cap with a view of the show at Bistrot il Birecto. Negotiations were made with the owner to purchase an opened bottle of local wine from for a night cap on our hotel roof.
9/1 - early afternoon flight out of Naples meant one last breakfast at the hotel, and one last sfogliatelle. Our driver talked our ears off with all sorts of interesting chatter all the way to Naples. Roadwork meant a ride along the coast and through all the little towns we hadn’t seen.
We didn’t have to show anything other than passports in Naples. Frankfurt to Dulles required proof of negative Covid test when being interviewed at pre-boarding. We showed the United agent our test results from eMed saved to our phone. Nothing was needed to enter the US at Dulles.
We know we won’t return to the Amalfi Coast for some time. It had been eight years between our first trip to Sorrento and this trip, and we still haven’t made it to Capri or seen much of Naples. It will be interesting to see how it might change over time. It’s an over-touristed part of the boot laces of Italy but it gave us a fun break away from the US craziness. Ciao, ciao, regazzi.