Hi, I am one week into my solo independent vacation and thought it might be helpful to hear about masks or the absence of them. I have been in Milan, Stresa, Cremona and now in Parma so far.
Regionale trains - almost 100% compliance on the trains to/from Milan. A couple of blue surgical masks. Several blue surgical masks in the smaller routes heading east. And a lot of the kids heading to school getting off the trains were just wearing the blue ones. I do like that I can pick where I want to sit on the train - mostly a row of seats between people.
Restaurants - I have eaten at pizza, etc. type and tonight at a very nice restaurant in Parma. I have only eaten outdoors since there’s a lot of options and what I prefer, anyway. The wait staff have all worn masks. No restaurant customers were wearing masks while ordering.
Masks were required in museums and adhered to very well - no blue ones allowed, wear correctly, etc. I attended a classical concert in a small hall, and everyone was required to have the stringent masks.
Churches require masks, although most visitors are staying a good distance from each other.
Outdoor walking around, I haven’t seen anyone wearing a mask. A few on a boat; we were sitting outside.
Hope that helps!