Istanbul Trip Report

Tuesday 28th October

We rose fairly early this morning as we had timed tickets through Get Your Guide for the Hagia Sophia.

Breakfast was at the hotel restaurant with another stunning view after I got to watch a massive Cruise ship sail into Galataport, which is five minutes from here. This ship takes over 5000 passengers and as I feared made the city awfully busy.

We first had to figure out the transport system, buy an Istanbulkart and load it with Turkish Lira which was fun and games. We figured out how to get to Sultanahmet where all the mosques and tourist attractions are.

The whole Get Your Guide thing was incredibly confusing with them sending messages saying I had to meet someone then that I didn’t. We wasted a lot of time. Finally, it turned out that we didn’t need to meet anyone and got in the security line for the Hagia Sophia. The crowds were intense, what I’d expect in London or Paris in August and very off-putting.

The Hagia Sophia was to be a highlight for me, but it was fairly disappointing. Since it has been turned from a museum to a mosque we could no longer enter at ground level and could only visit from a balcony up lots of stairs. Even on the balcony it was roped off from the edge so we couldn't really look at the incredible building as it is meant to be seen, from the floor. Many of the Christian images were also covered in white sheets.

I was aware that all this would be the case, but it was much worse in reality than I expected, especially considering the very high price for tickets.

After the Hagia Sophia we strolled around Sultanahmet Square, also known as the Hippodrome of Constantinople. This was full of fountains, obelisks and other monuments.

Our next stop was the Basilica Cistern where we had tickets with GYG but the queues and security still took forever.

We also had GYG tickets for Topkapi Palace on Friday but cancelled then due to how pointless the “skip the line” tickets actually are. Of course, it then turned out that they billed me five minutes before I cancelled, but I was refunded almost immediately.

Many of the regulars on this forum warned about skip the line tickets, I should have listened more, but I have never seen crowds like we had on our first day.

The Cistern was lovely but so crowded with huge tour groups that it was hard to appreciate. We travel off season to specifically avoid huge crowds, but it didn’t seem to work in Istanbul.

We found a wonderful roof top restaurant for lunch, the 360 Panorama, overlooking all the mosques.

I finally had Turkish food, very tasty lightly spiced chicken cubes with grilled peppers and onions, and wonderfully crusty brown bread with olive oil for dipping. G was still not quite right so had a bowl of lentil soup, of which he managed to finish half.

Finally, we paid a short visit to the Blue Mosque, where at least this time we were allowed on the main floor. Again though the crowds were dreadful and it was hard to enjoy whilst holding your shoes and making sure the headscarf didn’t slip off which made guards yell at you.

Did I like Istanbul that first day? Not really, although I’m sure many would. I’ve heard it described as romantic and beautiful but on that busy first day I thought it was dirty, chaotic and insanely crowded.

Was I glad we’d come, yes absolutely, but many on the TA Istanbul Forum and other forums said it would steal your heart like Paris does. Not in a million years.

It reminded me a lot of Bangkok or any other huge Asian city, dirty, noisy, overcrowded with buildings in disrepair and construction or demolition everywhere.

We went to dinner at Rakafoli, a rooftop restaurant overlooking the Galata Bridge, the old bridge lined with fish sellers spanning the Golden Horn.

The view was amazing, and the food was nice too. Poor G was still struggling to eat, but he isn’t feeling quite so bad so he’s determined to push himself to eat a small amount at each meal as not eating hasn’t helped at all.

I had Turkish lamb skewers and he had chicken. There were no vegetables to choose from unfortunately, all meals here seem to come with tomatoes which I hate, fried, sliced spicy red onions, which are nice, and a very large charred and blistered green pepper, like an elongated green capsicum. They are slightly spicy but nice. I’d kill for a green pea or bean though!

We really enjoyed the restaurant, except for the fact that right next to us a number of people were smoking. We both gave up smoking years ago, but I still like the smell so it didn’t bother me. I was shocked to see people smoking inside though, I didn’t think that anywhere allowed that in this day and age.

Wednesday 29th October

We had a lazier morning that day and went to breakfast. I ordered two double shot cortado coffees, and a cheese omelette each. This was served with a large, very large, basket of bread and pastries. The staff were shocked that this was all I was ordering and kept saying that is included, so eat more. People seem to eat massive meals in both Greece and Turkey.

Luckily this was a much, much better day. Firstly, the weather was simply perfect, high teens temperature and bright sunshine and blue skies. We caught the local ferry over the Bosphorus to Kadikoy on the Asian side. There were still horrendous crowds, it was Republic Day and everyone was waving Turkish flags and they were draped across buildings and over balconies. Coming from a country where the leftist fanatics seem to hate our national flag, and all our politicians stand under three different ones, this was very good to see.

Kadikoy was described on the Istanbul Forum as cool and a must see. Maybe it was because it was a public holiday and so busy, we didn’t feel the coolness and hipness of it.

We did find the waterfront though, which wasn’t hard, and walked along about a kilometre to the town of Moda.

What a difference, it was a completely different world to the madness of the European side of Istanbul. There were couples and families strolling the seaside, children playing, stray cats and dogs sleeping on rocks and the abundant green areas and all the time the most stunning views.

We could see back over to the European side, the whole huge city of over twenty million people spread out along the shore. We were on the Sea of Marmara and could see the Princes Islands where that sea meets the Mediterranean. Finally, I had some feeling of the fascination of this city, although I still think one visit will be enough.

Strangely the European side feels more Asian, and the Asian side felt more European.

We had lunch in a waterside cafe, G managed half a sandwich and I had a chicken schnitzel with Caesar salad.

We walked back and caught the busiest ferry I’ve ever seen, to sail back over to our side then went for a walk along to Galataport, Istanbul’s new cruise ship dock. It is lined with fancy restaurants, shops and bars although we didn’t stop as we plan to have lunch there on Saturday before or night flight home.

It was a good day to see the port as there was no ship there, obviously the ships take up a vast amount of space and ruin the best views as well as adding greatly to the overcrowding.

We spent some time on our lovely balcony, which we are very lucky to have. The staff kept telling me that we had the best room in the middle of the top floor with the only balcony. The other suites have views and picture windows, but we had the only one where you could sit out with a table and chairs.

We overlooked a waterfront square which sort of reminded me of Piazza San Marco in Venice, without the glamour and sheer size. There were people chattering, boats honking and music playing, and a street stall sold roasted chestnuts and corn, and the delicious smells wafted up.

The Bosphorus activity again reminded us both of Asia, particularly of sitting on a balcony overlooking the Chao Phraya in Bangkok. There are just so many vessels, from cruise liners, ferries, fishing boats and luxury yachts it was completely mesmerising.

G’s appetite had finally started to return, my foot had bruises down to my toes, but I was still managing to walk around very slowly. Luckily, it’s so crowded here that you can’t move fast anyway.

We had a very simple dinner in a tiny restaurant around the corner from The Wings and G was able to enjoy most of it. We shared what they called appetizers but for us were meal sizes of crumbed chicken bites, and Turkish bourek with minced meat. The bourek note no relationship to other bourek I’ve had before, but I’ve only had the Croatian variety so patently they are very different. These were very nice though; more samosa shaped with a very light pastry and a very tasty and spicy mince filling. G actually managed more than I did which was a first since he became unwell.

Thursday 30th October

After breakfast, we set off for the day and the goal was to ride the Tünel, which is the second oldest underground transport after the London tube. The Tünel opened in 1875 and is a 573m looking funicular running uphill from Karakoy where we are staying, to Beyoglu which is the start of Istiklal Street, a supposedly car free street running up to Taksim Square.

Taksim Square was home to the Republic Monument, which was difficult to get a photo of due to high fencing and security around it. The security here through the city was quite intense. Police were everywhere and heavily armed, although seemed very friendly if you asked a question. Five-star hotels, Galataport and even some high-end shopping centres had x-ray machines which everything had to go through before you enter.

Although it is sad that the world has come to this, I actually prefer the police presence and security, unlike here in Melbourne where there is none of either and it is now a dreadful crime ridden city. I certainly feel much safer here, and in most European cities than at home.

We popped into a very nice hotel on the square for an Espresso Freddo, which has become one of our new favourite morning drinks.

We would have liked to ride the historic tram that runs up and down the street, but there is only one with long waits each time, so we just took photos and walked instead. G wanted to check the price of his favourite basic t-shirts in Zara, but unsurprisingly in this expensive city, they were considerably dearer than at home.

We would have liked to ride the historic tram that runs up and down the street, but there is only one with long waits each time, so we just took photos and walked instead. G wanted to check the price of his favourite basic t-shirts in Zara, but unsurprisingly in this expensive city, they were considerably dearer than at home.

Our next stop was the historic Pera Palace Hotel, a beautifully designed and decorated hotel built in 1895 for hosting passengers from the Orient Express. We had our customary cocktail in the nicest hotel in town, which is our regular activity when we travel. The lounge was so lovely and serene though that we decided to have lunch too as G actually had an appetite. We both had grilled chicken thigh wraps with hummus and salad as well as some delicious fried potatoes.

The hotel’s fame was not only being the oldest in town, but the first to have electricity as well the first lift, or elevator. It hosted guests such as Ernest Hemingway, who judging by how many bars we’ve visited that he supposedly went to, must have led a life of amazingly great fun. It’s also hosted Zsa Zsa Gabor, Ataturk, and is the place where apparently Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express. We considered staying there but its only flaw was no water views, so we choose not to.

After lunch we walked the kilometre or so back down Istiklal Street, trying to find the Galata Tower, one of the icons of the city. As expected, the crowds got worse and worse, I would seriously hate this place in high season. The queues to climb the Tower were completely ridiculous and combined with 283 spiral staircase steps on a sore ankle and the price of €30 each we took photos and gave it a miss.

We stopped at one of the many roof tops that dot this town, went up in a lift and had a glass of Sauvignon Blanc each with views of not just the tower viewing platform, but the surrounding city and water too. Much better value at less than €20 and no climbing.

That evening we went on a VIP Dinner Cruise on the Bosphorus. We rarely do cruises that involve food, but this got great reviews, we want to see further up the strait by night, and as it was a three-hour long cruise, it was just easier to combine it with dinner. There were also Turkish music and dancers.

We did enjoy the cruise, although sadly it didn’t sail past many things that were worth taking photos of. The food was not bad, as usual far, far too much of it though.

We started with ten mezze dishes, of which we managed two. Then came a hot starter of shrimp, which I don’t eat, so G some of that. For main course we shared it all, so we had grilled sea bass, lamb skewers and meatballs. Whilst none was as hot as I’d like, the lamb in particular was simply melt in the mouth tender, and all was very good. Dessert was baklava and fresh fruit.

The first part of the entertainment was enjoyable but then there appeared to be a big number of Russian dancers and I have no idea what Russians have to do with Istanbul as well as a very in your face belly dancer.

It was a change though after three weeks of restaurant dining.

I was surprised that in such a big city we couldn’t drink the water anywhere, although bottled water was very cheap. It is a nuisance though always making sure that you have enough. Again, very much like Asia.

A bigger issue for us in both Greece and Istanbul was that you could not flush toilet paper in either country. I simply can’t work out why people who created so much history over millennia cannot improve their sewer system, but it seems that they cannot. Maybe I’m picky, but this alone would be likely to stop me from revisiting.

It is really quite unpleasant just using rubbish bins, particularly with gastro illnesses.

Friday 31st October

This morning, we started our final full day.

I was very impressed with kind the vast majority of people have been. Of course, there were the arrogant tossers who push in front to get on the tram, but most local people were lovely.

Strangely, most kindness was been around toilets, which with a very weak bladder are a regular haunt for me. The first time I had no Turkish coins to pay, and someone insisted on paying for me, on the dinner cruise I went once and it was down the flights of steep steps. Our waiter asked if we were enjoying ourselves and I said I’d prefer an upstairs toilet and showed him my still very swollen ankle. Next thing he’d called the staff together, instructed them to clean the staff toilet and then to leave it free for me all evening, and that’s exactly what they did. This toilet was behind the serving area but on the top floor where we were seated rather than down in the bowels of the boat.

In the Grand Bazaar I needed to go and couldn't find anything anywhere. In desperation I asked a money changer, who I figured would speak English. He did, and before I knew it he’d called over another man who escorted me upstairs to a beautiful rooftop garden, where there was a spotlessly clean toilet for me to use.

Originally, we’d planned to visit the Topkapi Palace today, but it is a huge complex, and we’d have had to start super early to get there on time, plus we were told it takes a minimum of half a day, so we had cancelled or reservation.

Instead, we had a lie in then a leisurely breakfast. We took a very slow walk over the Galata Bridge, which spans the Golden Horn and is lined with fishermen.

We then visited the Spice Bazaar, which smelled amazing, as well as the Grand Bazaar, supposedly one of the world’s oldest and largest.

As a devout non-shopper, this was nowhere near as bad as I expected, and surprisingly not terribly crowded. I didn’t buy anything, but it was interesting to see the wares and people trying to convince you to buy a Turkish rug on the spur of the moment.

We then stopped for Espresso Martinis at the hotel we’re dining at this evening, so we’d know where we're going in the dark. Dinner will be on the roof top terrace, but the cocktails were enjoyed in the downstairs bar. Next, we caught the tram back to the Galata Bridge, but this time we went down to the second level which was lined with fishing boats and restaurants. We had to try the famous balik embrek, which was a grilled mackerel fillet served on baguette, with lots of shredded salad vegetables and a sort of pomegranate sauce. It was a very tasty lunch indeed, and G appeared to finally have his appetite back, thank goodness.

Our last stop for the day was Gülhane Parki, once the private garden of the ruling Ottomans who lived in Topkapi Palace, but now are public gardens for the whole city to enjoy. It was lovely to stroll through some green space amongst so much noise and chaos.

Our final dinner in the Loti Roof Lounge was lovely. The views over the lit-up mosques were beautiful. We started with our customary Negronis, then shared a beef and lamb platter with salad. All the food was very good. I had a chocolate soufflé for dessert which was the perfect finish.

Saturday 1st November

On our last morning we rose early, had breakfast then packed up and checked out. The hotel held our bags for the three hours we had to kill before our transfer. We walked for a little while along Galataport, where there was yet another cruise ship in port, this time a Carnival one with over 3000 passengers.

Needless to say, things were busy, so we found yet another rooftop terrace.

Rooftop bars and terraces are literally everywhere, I suppose it makes sense when the views are so good and ground level is so crazy with people. We had lunch up there, a seafood linguini for G and a lamb kofta with a smear of mash and a green salad for me, along with a glass of Malbec.

Our transfer from istanbulairporttaxis was spot on time. They had to pick us up at the Peninsula due to the construction near our hotel, but the staff helped us over there with our luggage. Our driver drove us through the never-ending cacophony of hooting horns and mad drivers to Istanbul Airport.

Thanks so much to Enigma, Robert, Asif and other posters on here for their help in answering my questions.

We ended up very much enjoying our stay in Istanbul, and my advice to first timers would be to not visit Sultanahmet on the first day as we found it so intense. I am very glad we chose to stay in Karakoy, rather than in the old area with all the touts and tourists.

Your trip report really spoke to me because it was so down to earth describing both the good and the bad.

If I ever make it to Istanbul, I hope that you will be available for questions beforehand.

We were in Istanbul at the same time period. Agree with some of your observations. I am planning on doing a trip report in a few days when I can get myself together.

Was I glad we’d come, yes absolutely, but many on the TA Istanbul Forum and other forums said it would steal your heart like Paris does. Not in a million years.

Dab, I'm so sorry to hear that. I was in Istanbul in 2007 and fell in love with it. It's probably my second favorite city in the world (London is first). 😊 It really did steal my heart, but I have not been there in recent years. So I would imagine that the crowds can be insane. And I find it especially interesting that you were there at the end of October, which seems to be on the very outside edge of shoulder season. I'm not sure when you have to go to get away from the crowds. I keep thinking I would like to go back, but I'm worried that it will color my wonderful memories I have of that incredible city.

I'm not sure when you have to go to get away from the crowds.

I went in August, 2024. It was my second visit and I didn't go back to the Hagia Sophia or Topkapi Palace or the Galata Tower. I visited the Blue Mosque, where the lines were moderate, but moved very quickly. And it wasn't insanely crowded inside. Crowded yes, crushing not at all. The square around the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia was pleasant with visitors, not jammed. The evenings in that area were lovely, with a lively but hushed buzz. Trams to go downhill were crowded; I walked, shopping along the way of course!

I walked right into the evening session of the Basilica Cistern, with no line to buy my ticket onsite - you couldn't buy evening tickets online at that time. There might have been a dozen (2 dozen?) other people. No tour groups.

The Spice Market was busy, but not insane.

I was one of very few visitors in the Çamlıca Mosque, across the Bosphorus. There were perhaps 3 of us in the upstairs galleries; most were there for prayers.

The public transit ferries weren't overcrowded and I always got a nice seat to watch the views. Wandering the neighborhoods of Beşiktaş Ortaköy, Cihangir and parts of Üsküdar, there were tourists by the water, though I still got a prime table for viewing at lunch time. There were far more locals going about their daily business as I walked away from the ferry stops and into the nearby streets.

As DebH points out, the "when" of crowds are influenced by the cruise ships, especially near top attractions reachable during their daytime visits. As I moved away from those attractions and those areas, there were fewer crowds, less English, and more locals (or semi-local tourists) doing their shopping or meeting up with friends and family.

It sounds like you both weren't feeling that great for this trip. I wonder if you went back when you were both feeling better, if you might have a more positive impression.

Istanbul is a city of over 15 million people. I don't think that you will ever get away from the "crowds" because there are just so many people there. However, as mentioned above, moving away from the very popular sites can relieve some of that pressure. One of my favorite stops was the Mehter Band Concert at the Military Museum. There was a big group of people, but it was primarily locals who were celebrating their heritage.

Istanbul estimates that it receives between 50,000 and 60,000 international tourists on a daily basis, with some days exceeding 160,000 and reaching over 200,000 in July. Say that up to 5,000 of those 50,000 might have come from a cruise ship. That leaves the other 90% or more of the crowd coming from elsewhere such as yourself. I think the reason that tourists from cruise ships may seem more obvious is they are often moving in shore excursion groups that suddenly can make the line seem much longer.

Sorry you had some disappointments in Istanbul. It looks like it was at the very end of a long trip and I agree Istanbul takes a bit of fortitude to absorb it really is so busy and bustling with big city energy. Even starting a trip there can be overwhelming. It's great that you found respite on the rooftops - they sure are a good perch to get away from the hubbub. I hope you had safe travels home and the good memories will outweigh the hiccups.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Bostonphil, you will find me somewhere, I am planning next year's trip to France, my happy place, so I'll be there and will be happy to answer any questions.

Barbara, I look forward to reading your trip report too, there are never enough trip reports for me.

I think there is a lot of truth that is was at the end of a trip, but we'd only been gone for three weeks, so that's normal for us. Having a sore ankle isn't bad, but I've had worse on trips. For G, my husband, obviously feeling better would have helped.

Many of our friends have visited Istanbul and loved it and their descriptions were vastly different to my impressions. All of these people though visited ten to twenty years ago. I strongly suspect things have changed a lot since then, and it appears not in a good way.

I visited Istanbul last June. It was a solo trip so I could do what I wanted, when I wanted without having to accommodate anyone else which makes things a lot easier. It was my first visit and I concluded that it isn't one of my favourite cities.

The crowds were large but not excessively so, other than the Spice Market. I had Get Your Guide tickets for both the Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern, both of which were skip the lines, and they moved pretty quickly. Neither site was overcrowded but they were certainly busy but not beyond what I was expecting.

My food experiences were generally disappointing which was a surprise for me as I was expecting better but I blame myself for not doing enough research and for opting for convenience in places catering primarily for tourists. Generally I make food an intrinsic part of my travels but for some reason I didn't in Istanbul. If I were to return then I would focus more on this aspect.

The smoking was a big negative for me despite being an ex smoker. I haven't smoked for twenty years and I find the smell and breathing in smoke obnoxious (I apologise to everyone who I inflicted it upon in the past!).

Istanbul certainly doesn't make the list of my favourite cities, (the top accolade for me goes to Rome) and I don't envisage returning any time soon however I can see why it does top the list for some people. Personally I have no desire to return to Paris whereas others absolutely love the place. Everyone is different which is why I don't worry if my feelings towards a place don't align with others....each to their own.

JC, finally someone who agrees with me, except Paris, which is my favourite.

Like you, I have no plans to return, but I didn't hate it either and am certainly glad I have visited.

It's funny how you said that the Hagia Sophia wasn't more crowded than you expected, but the Spice Market was. For me it was the exact opposite.

The HS was simply crazy, no wonder they keep putting up the price with that many people willing to pay.

I was dreading both the Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar, as I really don't like shopping. My husband however, does. Weird I know. I expected complete chaos at the Grand Bazaar, but it and the Spice Bazaar were very quite, no-one hassled us as they did around the mosques, and it was actually relatively enjoyable.

I think it was the first time my husband has wanted to leave a place designed for shopping before I did.

I find DebH's report very down to earth and real.

Her trip was not perfect. I could relate because my trips are also not perfect.

I will join others in saying I found this to be a helpful and useful report. I appreciate its honesty and sincerity. Things don't always go perfectly on a trip, and its kind of cool to read an authentic report of this. Thanks for the trip report, DebH.

Thanks for posting your report. I’ve bookmarked it for future reference.

Deb, thanks so much for your thorough and detailed trip report. To me a "Trip Report" is just that...a personal account of one's own trip including opinions that others may not share. I appreciate the time it took to put this together.

I have not been to Istanbul but I totally get what you said about crowds. I have a low threshold for lots of people, living in a state with lots of unpopulated space, lol. I love Paris and even I, by my last day, had to skip another visit to the Orsay because I did not think I could deal with the possibility of being jammed in with humanity, hahaha!!

I hope your ankle has mended and that your husband has recovered as well!