We spent 3 full hot but amazing days in Istanbul at the end of August.
*Temps were low to mid 90 and humid. After about a half hour walking, I was pretty sweaty, anyway, so the strategy that worked for us was to shower in the evening, wake early and get out on the town sans make up or hair styling, but with sunscreen. Fancy primping, not that I’m much of a “primper”, is pointless. I love Trader Joe’s facial sunscreen for all over. It soaks in and doesn’t leave a sticky film. Some say it is similar to Gwenyth Paltrow’s expensive stuff.
My fave outfit for Istanbul days that included mosques was a lightweight, cotton, full, breezy, mid calf skirt. Tops were cap sleeved. I carried a scarf. Uncovered lower legs seemed to be fine and bare arms, as well. Not bare shoulders. The mosques seemed to be accepting hats for women. I carried a linen scarf. I was quite hot in the mosques. I recommend looking for the thinnest possible silk scarf, instead. I wore canvas sneakers with no show socks so I wouldn’t have to walk around barefoot.
We got to the Hagia Sophia and the palace about 15 minutes before opening. Highly recommend! Even an hour later was nuts, with long entrance lines. Go in the Hagia Sophia at opening, take photos and go back to the beginning to listen to commentary.
For the palace, again go at opening. See the treasury, relics, and harem, first, probably in that order. Retain your ticket, you need it to get into the harem (there’s a story there)
Chora church,/kariye mosque is open. We went by taxi to arrive at opening. It gets more busy as the day goes on, but not crazy. They are now charging 20 euro, extra for coverings, if needed. It is so beautiful! No mosaics or frescoes are covered, but those in the sanctuary have shades they must pull for prayer time.
We walked back via Balat neighborhood and Suleyman mosque. (A lot of uphill to the mosque!!!) I would call Suleyman a don’t miss, as well as the gorgeous Rustem Pasha mosque. From Suleyman we walked to the bazar.
We went to the Blue Mosque around 6pm, busy, but no line. It was prayer time, but they still let tourists in (same with Suleyman)
We did like the Basilica cistern. It’s unique and interesting. I would agree it is over priced. I can’t remember exactly, but I think about the equivalent of 25 euro. We were surprised that it costs more at night. That, we would not have paid.
We purchased bottled water, ridiculously cheap. Once it was about a half euro for two bottles. I was very careful. I only drank bottled water, had no ice (so no cocktails) only beverages that came from a can, mostly iced tea. Because of the heat, wine was unappealing and I don’t drink beer. The first time I brushed my teeth, I forgot and started to use tap water. I quickly grabbed my mouthwash (antibacterial, etc., that I have for canker sores) and rinsed my mouth and toothbrush. My son who has a PhD in such things said this was a good spur of the moment idea, but that I probably would have been fine. In the end, I was fine, my husband was not. The only thing different that he did was to drink breakfast juice that was probably reconstituted and had ice. I had medication for him and after an unpleasant night and a day of sleep, he was ok. We both had done the probiotics and pepto bismal regime. We didn’t use the activated charcoal because it concerned our pharmacist who thought it could impede the absorption of medications. In retrospect, my husband, who doesn’t take any meds, could have used it.
Make sure to walk around the Blue Mosque/Hagia Sophia area after dark. Gorgeous! There were colored lights on the fountain. Close to the fountain, by some baths was a restaurant that had a “whirling dervish”. Since the actual site by the Galata tower is closed, it was nice to catch a bit of it.
Thank you to the folks that helped me plan our time in Istanbul.