Istanbul

I don't know; I wasn't in Istanbul 12 years ago and don't remember much about the bazaar from my one earlier visit about 40 years ago. Also, my memory is a bit confused by having been to Marrakech after my first visit to Istanbul.

I assume you are referring to the Covered Bazaar. As of now, it is very much a going concern. I don't know how prices compare to little shops selling similar things outside the bazaar (of which there are in most cases many). What I did observe on my trip through the bazaar last month, in the afternoon, was that the environment was quite smoky; I found it unpleasant. It's a non-smoking area, and the shoppers seemed to be adhering to that rule; the shopkeepers were not. The bazaar is really large and has openings only at the outer edges where streets emerge into the daylight. There's not great air circulation inside. Anyone who is bothered by cigarette smoke should endeavour to go to the bazaar early in the day. I imagine conditions would be more pleasant then.

I don't know how it was 12 years ago because I missed it on my first trip to Istanbul, but I enjoyed it a lot in 2017 and 2021. When I was there in 2017, I took the equivalent of $100 USD in cash, and told myself that I wasn't leaving until the cash was all gone. Sure, it's touristy and overpriced, but I have never had so much fun spending $100 (mostly on scarves).

Visited the bazaar in 2009 and also last month (September 2023). Was there to browse with a friend. It was packed with people. Easy to navigate. Very clean. I found the atmosphere pleasant, the people welcoming, and the choice of merchandise overwhelming.

I’m currently in Istanbul and was in the Spice Bazaar 2 days ago. acraven’s comments above about second-hand smoke there are spot-on, I noticed the exact same things.

FWIW Istanbul is probably the “smokiest” city I’ve ever been in. It’s hard to get away from cigarette smoke anywhere in the city, in restaurants (the “no smoking” sections are just less smokey than elsewhere), in the streets, everywhere. It’s an amazing, wonderful city full of great things and I love being here, but my lungs are very ready for a break.

It's pretty horrifying how many young folks you see smoking. I wonder whether the country is doing much to discourage it.

I haven't had significant issues in restaurants, but I tend to eat early, before restaurants are full and have often been seated in the back of the restaurant. It has been very warm here, so most restaurants have their large windows (often sliding doors) open, and there's really no barrier between the smokers outdoors and the interior of the restaurant. There are some narrow streets off Istiklal Caddesi in the New City that are one restaurant after another, all with awnings that nearly meet in the middle of the street. This creates a semi-enclosed environment that is best avoided if you're sensitive to smoke. It's not as bad as the bazaar, but it's unpleasant.