Balat and Fener Neighborhoods

It's hard for me to admit that my 2022 visit to the area is no longer "recent" in travel terms, but it's not for lack of wanting to go back and wander slowly through the colorful and tempting area that we visited during our Best of Istanbul tour. My photos from there are among the most colorful of my first 3 weeks in Turkey.

Gotta admit that it has been a while for me, too. I enjoyed it when I was there in late 2021.

The steep hills and the brightly colored houses of Fener remind me a lot of Haight-Ashbury in San Francisco, and it has a touch of a bohemian vibe, too. There are several Greek Orthodox churches in Fener, and it remains the seat of Patriarchate of Constantinople, even though there aren't many congregants left. Several of the churches are open by appointment only. We hired a private guide, and he was able to arrange for us to go inside. Gul Mosque, once a Byzantine church, is also worth a visit. If I recall correctly, Gul Mosque is also open only by appointment.

I didn't find Balat quite as interesting as Fener, maybe because I was just getting tired. The synagogue is not open to the public for security reasons.

Thank you both for your replies. I admit that it's the color of the neighborhood that attracted me. Since I lived in San Francisco for 6 years, I might feel at home in that area.

Someone suggested walking around the Cihangir neighborhood close to Taksim Square. If you've been to this neighborhood, should I prioritize this area over Balat and Fener? Cihangir didn't seem as unique as the other two; I only used Google Maps street-level pictures.

If you love "Antik" shops (really antique stuff) then I would suggest Cihangir. Otherwise, my preference would be Balat/Fener.

Marie, do you recommend your guide as knowledgeable of these neighbors and their Byzantine history.
If so, contact name and approximate cost is appreciated.
Thank you

@Jpost, yes, we were extremely pleased with our guide, Serhat Engel. Byzantine history is his specialty. His contact info is on his website -- https://istanbulclues.com. His website has a lot of good (and accurate/current) info, too.

We hired him for a full day plus a half day. If I recall correctly, we paid 150 euros for a full day and 75 euros for a half day. We gave him a good tip, too. Of course, inflation is high in Turkey, and his rates are likely higher now. He does not have a car (or he doesn't bring his car over from the Asian side), and so he would meet us in Sultanahmet. We used a combination of streetcars and taxis to get to Fener.