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Ystad, Sweden

At the conclusion of my RST of Scandinavia I traveled to Ystad to walk in the footsteps of Wallander. Our tour ended in Bergen, Norway. My flight to Copenhagen was at 6:00 am. I shared a taxi to the airport with a tour mate. There was a less expensive bus service with a pick up stop 2 blocks from the hotel, but we decided on a taxi due to the time of day. The airport was easy to manage and I was able to use a mobile boarding pass from the SAS app. (I was not able to use a mobile boarding pass on my flights to and from Europe). It is a short flight to Copenhagen. I must admit that I was quite anxious about getting to Ystad without the safety net of Asa, the tour guide. I did need to ask a shop attendant how to get to the airport train station. I was unable to get a ticket from two different kiosk stations. Another traveler (Spanish maybe?) and I tried to work together. I finally noticed that someone was able to get a ticket using cash. We both had some DKK and that worked. Right then an attendant came over and told everyone that the credit card system was down and only cash would work. I had to transfer trains at a Malmo station. I chose Hyllie (Hoo-lee-a). Police were conducting passport checks there and an officer helped me find the correct platform to continue to Ystad. I was able to buy a ticket for the entire journey at the airport. It was under an hour ride to Ystad. I did enjoy the scenery once we got away from the city into the countryside.

It was raining in Ystad when I arrived about 9:30 am. I was familiar with the layout of the town and walked fairly directly to my hotel, Sekelgarden Anno 1793. I was planning on just dropping my bag but the receptionist said that there was one room that was ready and offered to show it to me. It was #25 Fru Ottergrens Sykammare (Mrs. Ottergrens sick chamber). I knew that this room was given bad reviews on Tripadvisor because it opens into the breakfast room. But, after I saw the room which was spacious and airy I decided to take it. So, I was able to dry off and do the last bit of laundry that I would need to get through the rest of my trip. I was very happy with the room. I am an early riser, but I was not able to hear the breakfast being laid out or the other guests. I did have to ask one diner to move his chair so I could get out of my room on the second morning. In addition to the early check in, the receptionist offered me breakfast which was appreciated. I hadn't eaten yet that day due to my anxiety and getting up so early. I chose the hotel due to its connection with Wallander. I later learned from Peter (owner or host) that Krister Henrickson drank champagne in the courtyard where I ate breakfast.
I believe that just about everyone would be delighted by Ystad even those that have never heard of Henning Mankell . It is a medieval town full of half-timbered houses and brick streets. I had a full day wandering the streets and visiting sites from the Wallander movies. I got a guide from the tourist information service with a map of the sites. I had tea and cake at Kurt's favorite bakery and ate dinner each night in a restaurant from the shows. It was great fun. I also visited the Cineteket museum and was delighted to try on a police leather jacket from the show. There were displays from some of my other favorite shows as well.
On the second morning I planned a trip to Ales Stenar. The site is 25 km from Ystad. It is a stone Viking ship with stones aligning with the solstice sunrises. In this instance my internet research let me down a bit. I read that there was no bus service on Sundays. I did have a number to a taxi company that would take you, drop you off, and then pick you back up in an hour. Peter from the hotel called them for me but could not find anyone to take me because they were booked. Peter said he was on his way to his summer house so he and his wife Annika dropped me in Kaseberga and was able to arrange a taxi to bring me back.

Posted by
1068 posts

The Ales Stenar site is beautiful. The grounds were being manicured by a flock of sheep. It is also right next to the sea with stunning views. My internet research let me down because just as I got in the taxi I saw the bus heading for Ystad. But then I would have missed the time I spent with Peter and Annika.
The rest of the day I spent at the beach, the marina and the Ystad Abbey gardens and museum. Two days and two nights was the perfect amount of time. After breakfast I headed to Ystad station to go back to Copenhagen. My Capital One Visa chip and signature did not work to get a ticket at the unmanned station. No cash option either. Here, my research paid off as I also have a Capital One 360 debit card with pin. This got me a ticket. I spent the rest of that day in Copenhagen and flew home the next morning.
This was a perfect relaxing and solitary end to my trip. I had an agenda but it wasn't on a timetable. I recommend Ystad to anyone in the area especially Wallander fans.

Posted by
1426 posts

I too have visited Ystad and Ales Stenar - both wonderful stops. Unfortunately I had not read any of the Wallander books when I was there - love Wallendar! I will need to go back. Ystad is a very beautiful little town.

Posted by
12882 posts

Ystad is also a ferry port, from which you can go to Poland.