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Yellowstone and Beyond: A Journey

On the Road. An incredible Northwest excursion. From our Seattle home we first ventured to Coeur d’Alene ID. We dined at Satay and enjoyed a good meal there. The next day, we rode bikes 15 miles out and back (30 miles RT) on the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes. Lovely paved bike trail along the lake and then upstream along the river. Saw magpies, geese, ducks, and moose on our ride and pheasant and wild turkey while we drove through the area. Overnight in Missoula - enjoyed dinner at Plonk where our burrata salad was graced with balsamic pearls - a new dining experience.

On to Yellowstone. Neither of us has visited, before. My goodness, there’s so much to this park. The entirety of the park is about 40 miles by 45 miles. The Yellowstone caldera must be about 22 to 30 miles across. There are a variety of geothermal sites scattered widely throughout the caldera and beyond. And those features are diverse, from bubbling steam vents that bring up sulphur, silica, and other minerals from below ground and that build new travertine deposits, to bubbling mud pots, to low bubbling water on muddy ground surfaces, to holes in ground that vent steam, to roiling cauldrons of muddy water and colorful steaming and gurgling pools. Some of the sites are desolate, others are fringed with new grasses and other plants. Two days of these sites, as well as grasslands, mountain meadows, pine forests, the Yellowstone River Canyon and Yellowstone Falls, plus a herd of elk at Mammoth, a couple of herds of bison, in Lamar and Hayden valleys, and a family group of pronghorn … and this is before we venture to Yellowstone Lake and on to the Old Faithful Geyser area.

We stayed at Canyon, in a cabin that was a 20 minute walk to the North Rim.

We’ve walked and hiked. The boardwalks through the Travertine formations at Mammoth, Tower Falls overlook and down the trail nearly to the Yellowstone River, out though the forest and meadows towards Cascade Lake, and along the south rim of the canyon just below Yellowstone Falls from Artist Point to Lily Pad Lake.

More hikes the next day, on the way to the Old Faithful area. Boardwalks around Mud Volcano with its numerous and diverse features, and later to Natural Bridge, a mile in from Bridge Bay on Yellowstone Lake. All have been short hikes from just over a mile RT to 3-1/2 miles, but we covered about 16 miles.

All this in our first 48 hours, before our arrival at Old Faithful Inn. Just about 48 hours into our Yellowstone visit we see Old Faithful erupt. And we have three nights - two full days - in the OF area to explore the geyser basins and more. We stopped in at the Visitor Center. Two days earlier, a ranger at Mammoth insisted that it was unsafe to ride bikes anywhere in the Park and had my wife promise we would not. Here, a couple of rangers were entirely perplexed with that advice, so my wife is willing to give it a go.

Around the upper geyser basin area, we see Old Faithful erupt again, bike two miles out and two miles back through the upper geyser basin and tack on another 2 miles hoofing it along the boardwalks past more pools, geysers and springs. Are those bison foot prints out in the dirt and grasses beyond the boardwalks? One sad sight was the sign at Morning Glory Pool with the Fading Glory headline due to damage done by people throwing objects into the pool, clogging the vent, lowering the pool temperature which allows algae to thrive and is slowly turning the water from vivid aqua blue to a murkier greenish brown. We remember how pristine Croatia’s Plitvice Lakes NP was when we were there.

Continued in my first reply, below.

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After a picnic lunch, we drive about 2-1/2 miles to take a 2.4 mile bike ride out to Lone Star Geyser … and we manage to catch it erupt. Not Old Faithful, but a good 10 - 15 foot high blast of hot water for 2 to 3 minutes. The trail out and back runs through the forest along a lazy stream. We ride a couple hundred yards past where we parked the car to turn the corner for Kepler Cascades and see that lazy stream rush down a series of falls through a narrow canyon that quickly grows to a depth well in excess of 100 feet. My wife is fine with breaking her promise to that first ranger - that we not ride our e-bikes anywhere in the park.

Our second full day in the Upper Geyser Basin was just gorgeous. I saw Old Faithful erupt for the third time. Once again, we had great weather, this time for a 3 mile bike ride along Fountain Flat Road (closed the cars), followed by a 3.5 mile hike (RT) to Fairy Falls, then a very short bike ride and hike to the Grand Prismatic Pool Overlook and finally a 3 mile bike ride back to the car for a 20 minute drive back to Old Faithful Inn. The Grand Prismatic Pool was spectacular. Deep aquamarine blue fading to turquoise near the edge, yellow at the edge and wet, rust colored soil around the pool, with wisps of white and grey steam rising from the pool’s surface. On the drive between the Old Faithful area and Fountain Flat we saw a herd of bison, both coming and going, but herds of bison have become old hat so we took no stop nor more photos of them.

In our 2 full days at Old Faithful, we’ve seen over 2 dozen cyclists, most e-bikers, including one organized group tour of 6, plus a guide. (On our way to OF, we had seen another 8 non-e cyclists between Fishing Bridge and OF.)

BTW, a couple from the Netherlands told us that a 12 month pass for foreign visitors is now $250 for a year, up from $80, a year ago. Later we see signage re the $100 entry fee for foreigners and 250 for their annual pass.

Ranger Staffing. Unlike our experience in Yosemite in 2025, Yellowstone seems to be well staffed with a pretty full complement of rangers, at least in and near major centers like Mammoth, Canyon, Fishing Bridge and Old Faithful. They have ranger naturalist programs and we attended a couple of those (at Artist Point & Fishing Bridge). Last year, Yosemite had zero ranger programs and the private Yosemite Foundation could only partially fill that void. Rightly or wrongly, I suspect political decisions in Washington explain why Yellowstone is well staffed and Yosemite is not.

Yellowstone Tribal Center. Rose Abrahamson, descendant of a chief who was Sacajawea’s brother; Sacajawea’s great-great-great-grand niece. A lifelong story teller and teacher, from Kindergarten to University lectures.

Respect the land, home to our ancestors. Respect the waters. Respect our elders

Stories we learn from. Here’s one …

A mother who set her baby down so she could help others grind seeds. A beautiful butterfly flew by. She followed it, miles into the woods. She falls asleep. When she was awakened by sunlight, she saw the butterfly had become a beautiful man. He led her to the land of butterflies and told her to keep holding his hand and not to let go as there were other more beautiful butterflies, but she did and went off with yet another butterfly. Later, she ended up old and alone.

We are left to imagine that the others who were grinding seeds took in the baby.

Rose shares a modern day lesson from the story. By analogy, drugs are butterflies. Alcohol is a butterfly. Hold on to those who are dear and precious, your spouse, your child. Don’t go chasing butterflies.

Journey report is continued and concluded in my next (corrected) two replies.

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On to the Tetons. Nice drive from the Old Faithful area to Jackson Lake, with brief stops to look up at Lewis Falls, another stop at an overlook to see the Lewis R. canyon, and finally for a picnic overlooking the Tetons across the lake. After we checked in to the lodge, we headed to Jenny Lake and had time to walked 1.1 miles out and back on the lakeshore trail. Dinner back at Signal Mt. Lodge was probably enough to give my cardiologist a heart attack, but we don’t eat steak very often and I still believe in the French paradox, despite all evidence to the contrary. Enjoyed a nice Côtes du Rhône. Skipped dessert.

Biking Day! We cycled from Moose to Jenny Lake and part way around to the Jenny Lake Lodge for lunch. Classic views of the Grand Teton range mountain scape rising out of the western sagebrush valley floor. As we head up the bike path, we see pronghorn grazing on the brush, right alongside the path. 9 miles from Moose to Jenny Lake and another 1-1/2 miles to the Lodge for lunch. Unfortunately, by the time we arrived I was wiped. It wasn’t the ride so much as progression of the upper respiratory infection that had been developing. Lunch was fine, though I felt bad being symptomatic in the not-too-crowded restaurant. The view of Grand Teton and Teewinot peaks from the chairs on the lodge porch is stunning, but I am too tired to take my iPhone out of my pocket to take the photo. Still, I decide to ride 10.5 miles down the valley back to Moose, rather than have M pedal back alone and return to the lodge to pick me up with my bike. Rather than heading into Jackson as planned, M drives us back to the cabin. I’m exhausted. For hours. M is concerned I may have COVID, so we head to Jackson with the plan of going to urgent care, but it would be closing as we arrive, so we go to the ER, instead. Just an upper respiratory infection after all; not COVID, not flu and not RSV. Phew. Rx of rest, tylenol and acetaminophen plus hot showers. So our last day (before we head home) is one of chillin’ at Signal Mt. Resort, dining out of the cooler.

Dining. Since we “knew” from past experience in national parks that Yellowstone eateries would not be satisfactory, we planned to avoid dining in the lodges and aim for dining from our cooler and more modest restaurants. The forum solidified that resolve. Experience in the park was different.

We merely surveyed the Canyon eateries on our first night. The cafeterias looked unsatisfactory but the bar & grill looked adequate. The next night we found the food there to be just that - adequate. At Old Faithful, we heeded forum advice to dine at the Snow Lodge’s Obsidian Room the first and third nights and quite enjoyed dinners, incl. an excellent beet salad with chèvre and candied pecans, trout with rice and a creamy curry sauce - pretty good, duck leg (duck was good, sides were meh), one less than good dessert, but a Basque cake for dessert the other night that was wonderful. Once, we ate at Old Faithful Inn’s dining room. Nice room, pretty good mixed Greek appetizer plate (the baba ganouj was the excellent) followed by shrimp served with creamy-cheesy grits and vegetables. Mixed verdict: grits were excellent, shrimp was tough.

Breakfasts were sometimes out of the cooler (granola, yogurt, and fruit) plus coffee in the room. We had pretty marginal “croissaint” breakfast sandwiches at Old Faithful Inn one morning. The sit down breakfast at the Obsidian: the buffet looked just “OK,” so we ordered breakfast, which was pretty good - just don’t get the “home fries” which must come straight out of a plastic bag.

One big surprise was the number of servers and other hotel staff from places like Albania and Slovakia, as well as many states. One server from Eastern Europe is just here for this summer; we didn’t ask too many questions, so we don’t know how she landed a paying job with a private company in a US National Park in 2026, under this administration.

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Lodging. This was the big ticket item. 2 nights at Yellowstone’s Canyon Lodge, close to $500 a night. Nice enough, roomy cabin. 3 nights at Old Faithful Inn, the old, grand lodge in a newer (1927) wing, over $600 a night. Neither of those lodgings had mini-fridges, so we added ice to the cooler every day. Signal Mountain Lodge in Grand Teton NP, in a lovely old log cabin on the shore of Jackson Lake with peek-a-boo views of the lake from our particular cabin, close to $500 a night.

Sure, we could have stayed outside the parks in Gardiner, West Yellowstone and Jackson for a lot less. But there is a certain magic to being in the parks and we have more time “being there” and less time driving in and out and in and out, day after day. And, M much prefers camping with a number on the door since our son graduated from high school, 25 years ago.

A final note of thanks Pam from Coeur d’Alene and others of you on the forum gave lotsa good advice about where to go, what to see, where to eat and the importance of a well packed cooler. Much of this we followed, some of this we rejected - like the advice to absolutely not bicycle anywhere in Yellowstone.

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Fred! I am so glad you all had a wonderful time in spite of your upper respiratory infection. Obviously you all got home safely!

A few comments: Lodging prices...the less expensive lodging choices for Yellowstone are snapped up a year ahead although with diligent checking of the Xanterra website you can occasionally snag cancellations. Our rooms at Snow Lodge in Early June were about $400/night which is more than I like but I had family members with me so that is what we did. I prefer the OF Lodge cabins which are $200/night. And yes, definitely I am an in-park gal. I want to be able to walk out of my room and be IN the park!

Foreign workers: Xanterra has always had a strong J1 visa program to import foreign workers for its multi-park locations. That was suspended for a while when the foreign worker visas were cancelled, then Covid. For years the concessioners in Yellowstone have been terribly understaffed. There are just not enough folks in the US who want seasonal work in a remote location for peanuts. This kind of job used to be taken by college students but they definitely are doing other jobs now and not wanting scut work in the hospitality industry. Right after Covid when they started issuing J1's again all the housekeepers at OF Lodge were from Thailand. I chatted with a group of them one day (while waiting for a chipmunk wrangler to come remove one from my cabin, lol) and they were so nice. All had university degrees. All were trying to improve their English. Most were going into hospitality.

Food: I'm glad you had fairly good meals at the Obsidian Room at Snow Lodge. And yes, cooler back up is necessary. My decadent go-to at Signal Mountain are their nachos. They are too big for one person and do NOT hold over well, lol.

Cycling: I'm glad you had a good experience there. I suspect the advice from the Mammoth Rangers was based on their knowledge of Mammoth. They may never have actually worked at OF. The current North Entrance Road used to be a dirt road that was bike friendly-ish but that changed when they had to quickly pave it after the 2022 flood washed out the main access road (and water/sewage pipes!).

Thank you for the kind words! I am so happy things worked out for you. Time to plan another visit, hahahaha!!