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Winter Break in Sicily - with Ravenna and Venezia add-ons

To celebrate my older grandson’s last high school winter break (and the last time we could guarantee his and his brother’s holiday schedules align), we headed to ATL at 3PM on Friday as soon as school was out - he and his 16yo brother, their parents, my husband and I - our destination, Sicily! Other daughter took one for the team and stayed home with the dogs (but she also couldn’t take another week of vacation two weeks after her last one.) I’m the one who makes ALL the plans, and my family is that family who shows up at the airport and asks, “Now, where are we going?” As long as there are no death marches, not too many art museums, and plenty of good food on the agenda, everybody’s happy. I started taking my grandsons to Europe when they were ten, and they’re two of my favorite travelers. (And now they can carry MY backpack.)

I had been to Sicily once before, a girlfriends trip almost 20 years ago, when I drove coast to coast for almost three weeks. This trip was my family’s first visit. In a week you can’t see it all, so we split it between lively, gritty Palermo and a peaceful agriturismo near Taormina, overlooking Mt. Etna. Sicily in February has ideal weather, sunny and cool, like October in Atlanta. It would be nice to be here a little later in spring for the water activities, but summer’s heat and humidity are a hard no for me.

Palermo

Delta’s not flying direct to Palermo in winter, so we flew overnight to Rome, caught a connecting flight on ITA, landed in Palermo at 2:30, and met the van driver arranged by our hotel. Stayed at a lovely small hotel/B&B I found on Sawday’s - Il Giardino di Ballarò, in the heart of old Palermo. The massive wood hotel doors opened directly onto a tiny street a few blocks walk from both the Four Corners and the Cathedral. Very comfortable rooms, with TWO bathrooms! Breakfast was unusually good, and the front desk always helpful. Highly recommend, and it has AC. https://www.sawdays.co.uk/italy/sicily/palermo/il-giardino-di-ballaro/?term=Sicily.

I planned one tour for each of the next three days, and had a pocket list of other possibilities, but that’s as structured as it got. We walked a lot but never had a problem getting an Uber that fit six. First day, Sunday morning, we were at the Capuchin Catacombs soon after it opened. Weirdly fascinating.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/AttractionProductReview-g187886-d21069699-Capuchin_Catacombs_of_Palermo-Sicily.html

Heard there was a Sunday antiques market near the harbor, which always piques our interest. This one skewed more to fleas, and we brought home no treasures, but it was a pretty day to be out. The outdoor Ballarò street market was next. Colorful, and loud, with vendors yelling out their wares. Most exciting part was a street fight when a vendor wielding a giant soup ladle took out a guy who must have lifted something from him. Our organized tour was two hours with a private guide organized by Francesca Lombardo from the RS Sicily book. She covered the territory from the Opera House to the Four Corners to the Cathedral, where we stayed an extended time to escape the late afternoon downpour. Helped us get the lay of the land and a better understanding of Palermo’s history.

Started off Monday morning with an excellent No Mafia Tour with Claudio guiding.
https://www.addiopizzotravel.it/default.asp?p=vacanza&tour=17&hl=en. In the afternoon we took an Uber up to Monreale to see the Byzantine mosaic filled cathedral. There was also a small, high quality contemporary mosaic exhibit off the courtyard. Easy to get a taxi back to the city, passing again through modern Palermo, so different from the old city where we are staying.

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Tuesday we toured the Teatro Massimo Vittorio Emanuele, Palermo’s famous opera house, larger than Milan’s La Scala, and third largest in Europe. Lucked into a rehearsal for Dido and Aeneas which opens Friday night. They sneaked us into the back rows for a while to watch the full orchestra and divas on stage in blue jeans. Later in upstairs rooms tiny dancers in leg warmers were waiting their turns on stage. The entire tour was music filled and interesting. Even if you’re not an opera fan, you might recognize this opera house from the last scene of Godfather Part III, where the front steps were red-carpeted…and bloodied.

Tuesday night we booked a private wine and food tour with Streaty. Their street food tour is very popular, but nobody in my crew of foodies was remotely interested in a spleen sandwich, and we had already sampled street food at the Ballarò market. Our tour was a leisurely walk with restaurants, five or six stops, led by a great guide named Alessandro. All the food choices were good, some extraordinary, like the pork belly wrapped around green onions and grilled. I’m glad one of the pastas we tried was the iconic Sicilian dish with anchovies, raisins, and bread crumbs; and glad I never ordered a full plate of it. (An interesting taste, but a little was enough.) There was a lot of food, but stretched over four hours, and we saw newer parts of the city where we hadn’t walked before.

I haven’t mentioned restaurants, but it’s easy to find great food in Palermo for reasonable prices. We avoided the busy streets around the Four Corners, tried places recommended by our hotel, and found good places on tiny back streets. Of the names I can remember, La Galleria and Primi Piati were wins and Osteria Ballarò was beautiful, but disappointing. I was a little sad to discover Sicilians here do not eat gelato in the winter!

Palermo is a fun place to visit, a little gritty, like Napoli, but less intense. The architecture is distinctive, and street music in the city center is operatic. I understand a little Italian, but I never understood ONE WORD of Sicilian. I also heard not one word of American English the entire time we were there. My only previous experience with the city was a terrifying drive through the downtown at rush hour when I missed the exit to the airport. So glad I came back!

On the Road

We rented a massive 9-seater Mercedes van from Avis to drive to the east coast. We bought the CDW bring-it-back-in-a-bag insurance coverage, as always in Italy, but were not disappointed to see it was already missing one hubcap and scratched on every side. What more could we possibly do to it?

Well…the three rows of seats looked very close together and the space left for luggage seemed excessive. (We’re all tall, and the boys are both 6’5”) We needed more legroom, and the seats were on tracks, so we unscrewed them and attempted to scoot them back a bit. I wish there was a way to post pics because I have memorable ones of the three Avis guys who worked over an hour to fix our handiwork.

Before we left Atlanta I sent my son-in-law Cameron Hewitt’s blog post about driving in Sicily. (https://blog.ricksteves.com/cameron/2018/06/sicily-driving) subtitled “Just Go Numb!” I got a quick text back, “We’re driving in Sicily?” Actually WE are not; YOU are. All turned out well. (He’s an excellent driver and was previously unfazed by Paris.) We picked up our car at the train station far out of the center on our hotel’s advice, avoided the ZTL, and were on the autostrada in minutes.

The coastal road between Palermo and Taormina is a beautiful drive. Cefalù’s beachfront was a good place for a lunch stop, and Bottega Tivitti was outstanding. https://www.bottegativitti.it/en/seafront-restaurant-in-cefalu

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Taormina

I have never met an Agriturismo I didn’t like, and Agriturismo Galea was lovely, and the first in a citrus grove. Driving up the gravel road with rows and rows of lemon-covered trees on each side, I knew this was a good choice. They had a fine little restaurant where we ate every night. Our total price for 6 people, 3 nights, 3 rooms including breakfast was 820 euros. https://www.booking.com/hotel/it/galea-farm-house.html

Hyper-touristy towns like Taormina are what I usually avoid, but in February it was wonderful. Finding the public parking lot near the top was challenging on a long, narrow road, but keep following the signs to Lumbi. Once there, a free bus picks you up and deposits you in the center of town.

The Teatro Antico di Taormina is the ancient Greek amphitheater built in 3rd century BC and still used today as a concert venue. Viewing snow-capped Mt. Etna through an ancient arch is special. I can be jaded about ruins, but I’d count this one a must-see. It’s an easy and pleasant visit, in February; probably jammed in high season. https://aditusculture.com/en/esperienze/taormina/musei-parchi-archeologici/teatro-antico-di-taormina

The cobble-stoned pedestrian center of Taormina has its share of tourist shops and is almost too cute, but on this off-season winter day it was perfect. My son-in-law wanted a beard trim and visited Sauro the barbieri, who afterward sent us to the restaurant where he was having lunch when we asked for a recommendation. Osteria Liolà was fully booked with a tour group, but they fitted tables together on their very pleasant outside entrance area to fit us in. Good food and friendly people.

After we retrieved our car we drove uppa, uppa on narrow hairpin-curves to the village of Castelmola with its spectacular views. Saw a half-court soccer field on the edge of the world; somewhere in the valley below there must be a lifetime supply of soccer balls.

On our second full day we circled Mt. Etna through the vineyard route described in the RS Sicily guide. Scenery was great, and always changing. Towns were clearly working towns and not especially interesting. We didn’t see any we wanted to stop in until we reached the pistachio shop in Brione. The owner was helpful and gave us lots of samples. In return, we packed home a load of breakable jars in our checked luggage.
We walked to a place in town he recommended for lunch. The first item I read on the menu was a Cavallo Burger. I intentionally learn the word for horse meat in every foreign language I might encounter, so my dining experience was already tainted before we even ordered.

We still had a long drive home, but it was another beautiful day. Against the bluest sky we could see the snowy peak of Mt. Etna and close by, white plumes of smoke rising from lava fields of the last eruption. In my head I could see a great photograph, if I could just find a clean foreground. Nobody in my family, except my extraordinary SIL would have ever driven this beast of a vehicle on pot-holed one-track roads to try to find it for me! We got close but not perfect, but it was definitely a more interesting way home than the main road! (In hindsight, I would make a different plan than driving the vineyard route.)

Easy rental car return at Catania the next morning. Probably helped that it was a Saturday and traffic was a non-issue. Flight to FCO on ITA.

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Rome

We have less than 24 hours in Rome before flights home or trains onward, so we’ll just do some of our favorite things. A driver arranged by our hotel was the fastest, easiest way to the center. Staying at the Albergo dei Senato, with the Pantheon right outside our windows. I’ve always wanted to stay here but choked on the prices. In February it was a deal. A beautiful room, breakfast included, a rooftop terrace, and the view!
https://www.albergodelsenato.it

The CROWDS! It’s February! Maybe because it’s a sunny, perfect weather Saturday, but I was not expecting so many people, everywhere. We’ll do what we can.

Started with gelato at ll Giolitti. Rude as always, but if you can get past that, the gelato is some of the best. To San Luigi dei Francesi to pay our respects to the three Caravaggios of Saint Matthew. Also crowded, but organist was practicing, which made it more enjoyable. Through Piazza Navona and Fiori di Campo for a little side street shopping. Dinner reservations tonight at Trattoria Da Teo in Trastevere, my grandsons’ favorite restaurant in Rome. They both had cacio e pepe and a steak, bookended by starters and desserts. And we met Chef Teo. Making memories.

After dinner, the boys, their dad, and I took a taxi to the Colosseum. Walking home under the moon, past the lighted antiquities in the Forums was finally peaceful. The Chiesa del Gesù was still open late at night, dimly lit, with soft music and only a few people. The magnificent ceiling fresco was illuminated. What a way to end.

Sunday morning after breakfast they’re off to the airport, and Bob and I are at Termini to catch a train to somewhere new…

Ravenna

This walkable university town with eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites with the finest surviving Byzantine mosaics in Europe is delightful, in the off season. We booked a tour with the tourist office and there were only three of us. Our guide Marco was knowledgeable and a good communicator, and assured us that in a few weeks there would be hoards of students and tourists, and the guards would be moving people out of the popular sites after very quick visits. We stayed as long as we liked, everywhere, in the very uncrowded churches. Our tour took us to five sites, and we saw the last three on our own the next day. There is apparently a complicated scheduling process for tickets in busy season, but we didn’t encounter that. Seven sites are in easy walking distance; the Basilica at Classe is about 5-8 Km from the center. We took a taxi out, and a bus home. The bus stop is an easy 50 yards from the church door; the tricky part is figuring out where to get off back in Ravenna.

Our B&B room was probably the most beautiful of any I’ve found in many years of traveling. Casa Masoli was about two short blocks from the center of town, and I think the lovely owner gave us the best suite, on the ground floor. (Pictures in the link below.) This room was 180 euros, with breakfast, total for two nights!
https://en.casamasoli.it/galla-placidia-costanzo-suite

I think you could see most of the mosaic sites in one well-organized day, but we really enjoyed staying two nights and having one full day and half of the next for unhurried visits. Our favorite restaurant was Passatelli for dinner (https://osteriapassatelli.it ) and lunch at a tiny pasta shop called Stefy’s on Via Serafino Ferruzzi in the center. You read the notecards on the bulletin board to see what’s available from the glass counters of freshly rolled pastas, place your order, then collect your paper plate of wonderful a few minutes later.

The Mercato Coperto, the market hall, is a good stop to watch the pasta makers, shop for Italian delicacies, buy cookies for the train, and sit down with a drink.

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Venice

If I’m anywhere near, I will find a way to stay a few days in Venice. We had three nights at Hotel Al Ponte Mocenigo, a few steps from the San Stae vaporetto stop. I’ve stayed here before, and this time they upgraded us to a suite. This looks out of the way on the serpentine Grand Canal map, but it’s only an 8 minute walk to both the Campo San Tomà and the Frari Basilica. The hotel is in the same peaceful residential area as the Natural History Museum. https://alpontemocenigo.com

The Carnevale crowds were long gone, and Venice was sunny, cool, and uncrowded. Only a few people on the Rialto Bridge. I’ve been as cold in Venice in February as anywhere in Europe, and came prepared with layers, but never needed them. This was maybe my 20th visit; no checklist; just returns to some favorites: dinner at Taverna San Trovaso, the Rialto market early, lunch on the Giudica at La Palanca, the illumination from start to finish at St. Mark’s.

By our second morning, the fog had rolled in (creating a whole new set of photo opportunities!) and Bob’s respiratory allergies had layed him low. I had big plans to spend the day in art museums that could turn into death marches for my friends, starting with the Academia, then the Punta della Dogana , then hopefully Peggy Guggenheim’s. The contemporary art museum was what I really wanted to see, but started at the Academia.

I broke all my rules. I’m an artist, and I hate to see people glazing over in art museums because they’ve spent too much time in front of the wrong paintings.

[Pick the period of art you love most, and go there first. And leave before you’re not enjoying it.]

It’s been years since I’ve been to the Academia, and I still love the first room of golden altarpieces. And I love the massive Veronese Last Supper that they changed the name of to pacify the Inquisitors who were offended by the dwarfs and monkeys. And I didn’t love anything else…but I plodded onward. I have nothing against Venetian church art, but where did the glorious Canaletto landscapes go, the ones you stand in front of and recognize places you have just seen, with tourists in different clothes?

I was so thirsty; there was no drink service I could find; just an endless procession of B-level madonnas on every wall. (Being hyper-critical and showing a lack of knowledge of that particular period of art, but I was so over saturated.) I needed to find a farmacia for my husband and drink(s) for me, so I still didn’t see the Punta della Dogana. I think of myself as a hard-core art museum lover, but I really didn’t enjoy this one. Maybe you will; or maybe you can walk faster to get to the next one.

Salvaged my day with a good lunch with my husband, then sent him back to the hotel so I could shop a little and enjoy the Frari again for as long as I wanted.

Last morning, a thrilling water taxi to the airport in pea-soup fog. La Venezia never disappoints! Ciao!

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You are an amazing writer and I feel right there with you! (cracking up toooo, funny and so real)
So happy you were able to do most of it with family- how many perfect memories!
Thank you for this trip report!