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Why I love southern Italy...let me count the reasons....

The reasons are uncountable, and this is why we keep returning, at least once a year. Last week we were in Matera for the (I think) the fourth time, staying at our now-favorite hotel at the bottom of the sassi.

I wanted do do some food shopping. There are three main routes to get to the upper town from the sassi and I chose the most direct one, but the one with many, many steps. Once I got to the Upper Town (do not neglect this on a visit to Matera..the city is not only about the sassi), I had another long trek to the supermarket....

The array of Lucanian produce at SuperEmme (Via Ridola, 77; there are other locations in Matera) was astonishing, so I went all out. I reached the check-out with enough to fill three very large, and heavy bags of fried peppers, crapiata (oddly named local bean soup), bags of peeled fava beans, bags of cicerchie...salted and fried fave....taralli...
all the while I was wondering how I would make it back to the hotel with all this STUFF.

At the check-out, I asked the cashier if they would deliver to my hotel but, after much back and forth with the manager, the user was an apologetic "No, Signora...not possible today..."

Now for the miracle. The woman standing in line behind me, a resident of the sassi, told me not to worry, that she would help me. And help me she did. We walked to the garage where her car was parked. We loaded all of our purchases. And Victoria proceeded to drive me on a tour of both the main city and the sassi..all along relating the story of her life and her re-location to Matera from Lecce as a child........she pointed out landmarks, shared comments about living in Matera, and we even exchanged recipes....and phone numbers..

After about an hour together, she dropped me at the entrance to my hotel......what a lovely experience, yet another of so very many reasons why I keep returning to the South.... Added plus: Matera has some of the best restaurants, at tremendous values, that we have found in the South...

I will add one more.....this happened minutes ago.

I noticed a man delivering produce to our hotel in Puglia...he was delivering a lot of cherries, just coming into season...he asked me if I liked cherries and I told him that these were among my favorite of all fruits...... An hour later, I returned to my room. On the little table near the sofa: Two gigantic bowls, overflowing with juicy, red, delicious cherries....a lovely gift...

Posted by
614 posts

Thank you so much for posting your experiences. What wonderful memories for you. And, I agree about the restaurants in Matera. Buon viaggio.

Posted by
6910 posts

Wonderful! Reminds me of my walk through the countryside outside Alberobello, when a couple began plying my husband and me with cherries from their tree.
I have the sense of humor of a 12year old boy, so la crapiata has caused a lot of laughs over the years, but the one served at the visitor center of the park at the gorge is truly delicious. A salve for a mostly vegetarian on vacation!
What will you do with your cicerchie? I ordered some from Gustiamo, and I think I’ll puree and top with grilled squid.

Posted by
615 posts

Lovely story! Thanks for sharing it. Do you speak Italian? I was wondering if the woman who drove you was speaking her native tongue or if she spoke English.

Posted by
9913 posts

Ekscrunchy, I love your story, especially being in the general vicinity together in Puglia and hearing you’re having those special moments that make the trip so very special! ”No, Signora...not possible today..." Anything is possible in Puglia! ; )

Have a great time in Italy! (I’m in Rome now. Republic Day tomorrow.)

Posted by
1726 posts

Val: We will have to exchange recipes for the cicerchie; I bought a bag or two in Abruzzo a few years ago and used them in soup, with beans....excellent. But your idea sounds even more delicious, and more ambitious..

Jean and I passed each other a few times--we were so close but will have our meeting in person next time!

I speak Spanish and so get by with Italian although speaking it is difficult for me, people seems to understand my dull attempts..I NEED to enroll in a class somewhere in Italy...there is a lot of info about that on Fodors....would love to hear about personal experiences..

Last night, another astounding experience unfolded: I knew that there was a Festival in the town of Fasano but no one had any solid information. so I booked a table at a restaurant in that town that I think might be the best of several good ones: LOCANDA D'MARTUMÉ. Streets were filled with people on costumes and band music filled the air......I was in a very high state of excitement (unfortunately not shared by my three companions)..

Large parade through the narrow lanes of the historic district.....men wearing hats with white plumes and women in folkloric (??) dress... stands set up selling grilled meats, bombette, sausages, etc...everyone is a festive mood....I lose my companions on the way to MARTUMÉ, and ask a woman to direct me.of course she walks me all the way to the front of the restaurant!! But I did not enter because the parade was passing by....so I follow that and get lost again. This time, two very modern girls in high black boots and very short skirts again, lead my by the hand(!!) to the door of the restaurant......

After the (wonderful) meal (we joined two ladies who we met at our hotel)....I stumbled on the piazza where a performance of "pizzica," the dance whose origin is thought to stem from a practice meant to expel the bite of a tarantula, or "the devil." had just begun. That was absolutely one of the very best travel experiences I've ever had..a troupe of costumed dancers engaging in intricate steps and then the "afflicted" girl in a white nightgown began throwing herself around feverishly,, finally collapsing to the ground.... I just don't have words to describe all of this....

And as far as I could tell, the onlookers standing around, filming videos, and sitting on the bales of hay placed for the audience..--were all locals....we certainly did not hear anyone speaking in a language other than Italian, so it felt "authentic" rather than a performance staged for tourists (I think some of those take place during august in Salento) .... we found out only that there would be a "small" festival that night in Fasano only by a chance conversation with one of the "Fasanese" servers at our hotel...

I will post some photos on the Fodor's site, where I have a trip report in progress..

I will never forget last night...1 June, 2006....and there we have yet another reason why I love Southern Italy!!

Posted by
243 posts

What wonderful experiences! Have to ask - what is the favorite hotel in Matera?

Posted by
1726 posts

There are so many excellent hotels in Matera; our last few visits we have stayed at the SEXTANTIO LE GROTTE DELLA CIVITA.

It is a glorious hotel (not very kind for people with limited mobility, though, and the prices have risen to a really extreme level in the past few years...)

. My partner had to move about very slowly...rooms are generally dark..... if you stay there, or in any of the "cave hotels" a flashlight would be a good thing to bring along......). None of that mars the experience of spending a few nights there....bt it is far from the only great option...

We adore that place but it is quite expensive and there are many other options including lovely B&Bs.. For some, a stay in the Upper Town might be best, as from there you have the iconic views over the sassi and can walk down there when you wish....

Yet another example of the kindness we have encountered:

Last time we stayed at the hotel (2023) I was overcome with the deliciousness of the "crostata di amarena.." a black cherry pie.
After our first night there on this trip,, I was sad because we arrived late to breakfast and all of that cake was gone.

I mentioned this to one of the lovely female servers....

The next morning, a large, wrapped box waits for me at my place at the breakfast table..it contains an entire black cherry crostata...all wrapped and ready to sustain us for many days after that....this is the kindness that I speak about...

Posted by
693 posts

You put southern Italy on my radar. Thanks for sharing.
I’d love to do a language immersion in Italy someday.