Like most years I visit France and like to explore places mostly overlooked by others. Compiègne north of Paris is such a place, passed it many times and driving once through it on the way to nearby Pierrefonds but never payed a visit before, so last week time for a closer look. So does this place has something to offer for the interested visitor?
Last Monday April 23rd
Before arriving in Compiègne, about halfway from my home in the Netherlands I drink a coffee in Arras. After two hours driving ideal for a break. The town is a bit quiet this time of the year, but the weather is exceptionally good for April and the two main squares are simply stunning there, it makes me feel already in a completely different world. The real holiday feeling starts here! Compiègne is just 1½ hour driving further and the car park in front of the palace there is free, so no worry about time and tickets.
“Palais de Compiègne” is not only “Royal”, but also “Impérial”, meaning it was also in use after the French Revolution during the reign of emperor Napoleon III, cousin of illustrious emperor Napoleon I. It’s neo-classical architecture is not so flamboyant as the more famous châteaux, however the building is impressively big and the interior offers more than enough for a few hours enjoyment. It looks that too few know that, I had almost the whole building to myself....the hall of mirrors completely empty, well except me and two attendants. The rooms decorated in different time periods are as good as any other palace in France. Finally in the basement there is a little car museum to wonder and behind windows a big poorly lit storage completely filled with some fifty sleeping beauties covered under a thick layer of dust, not cars but all kinds of horse carriages....
Compiègne itself is a very nice place with a pleasant laidback atmosphere, perfect for wandering around. It is far from touristy, so most visitors are locals like those savoring a drink in the sun. There are almost no modern ugly buildings spoiling the beauty of the place, Compiègne is as quintessential French as it can be. Perfect for me, likely it misses something spectacular that can draw the crowds, so it remains under the radar for most, but to be honoust I don’t care, this is the way I like it. Before going back to my car I have a quick look inside gothic “Eglise Saint-Jaques”, still in use as a real church so still having it’s sool that makes a church a church. Finally have a scenic drive through the palace’s park before moving further.
Actually Compiègne is most and for all famous for the WW1 Armistice, signed in a railway carriage hidden away in a clearing in the palace’s forest. It’s a special place, I can’t describe how but it reminds me somehow to the tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the base of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. A moving monument there is the one of August Trébuchon, the last French soldier killed just 15 minutes before the armistice of WW1 came into effect, poor poor man! The railway carriage looks exactly the same, but replaces the original one that was destroyed by the nazi’s after showing around in Berlin as a spoils of war for their propaganda, it was the place the French were forced to sign their defeat in June 1940.
Before going to the campsite near Chantilly I really need to make a detour to Pierrefonds. It’s for the third time and even the castle is not so original, it’s a 19th century rebuild, I can’t help it but can’t get enough of this place, so beautiful!
My visit to Compiègne was actually too brief to do it justice, I could have stayed longer, but what a place to enjoy. If, for once, you don’t care about a spectaculair site and looking for a nice place to visit not too far from Paris, Compiègne especially combined with Pierrefonds can be a worthwile daytrip!