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Undiscovered Spain – Alicante, Valencia, Matarraña Roadtrip 2023

Hi all this trip report has been a while coming, but wanted to set something down before I forget some details. Back in June 2023, I went on a roadtrip with some friends to some of the lesser known parts along Spain’s Mediterranean coast.

We started in Alicante, and it was a non-stop party town for a week; at the end, you ran out of aspirins. Going north by the coast we liked the coastal town of Javea. Valencia it is now our new favorite large city in Spain. Most recommended. The visit to the lesser known Matarraña region was a breath of fresh air that confirms inland Spain is well worth exploring.

Itinerary and impressions:

Alicante (9 nights)
We found Alicante to be a vibrant city full of life, its picturesque old town buzzing with activity and the modern beachfront lined with restaurants and bars. We were there during the week-long San Juan festivities, the city came alive with parades, music, and fireworks until 4 am each day. Mostly was local Spanish with a smattering of wide-eyed foreigners. The city was turned into a living art gallery with over 80 sculptures, each unique and intricately designed, lining the streets.

After days of festive merriment, these works of art were set aflame, an unforgettable sight that lit up the night sky. The traditional clothing of the Alicante dames was a sight to behold, adding an air of elegance to the festivities. The citywide fireworks contest was a daily treat, with each neighborhood outdoing the other in a dazzling display of lights at midnight.

We also we also used Alicante as a springboard to visit several nearby towns:

Jijona (Xixona in Valencian): Famous for its traditional Spanish nouga, Turrón, Jijona was a sweet escape from Alicante's hustle and bustle. We got to tour some of the turrón producers and learned about the age-old methods of making this almond nougat.

Alcoy: Alcoy was a charming town nestled between two natural parks, making it a great spot for nature lovers. We walked its historical routes and enjoyed its unique Modernist architecture.

Benidorm: We stepped by Benidorm out of curiosity more than anything else, it’s known for its skyscraper-lined beaches and vibrant nightlife, Benidorm offered a different more touristy experience. We enjoyed seeing all the crazy architecture, apparently Benidorm is on par with New York in terms of skyscraper density.

Xabia (Javea): A quaint seaside town, Xabia had an old world charm that was captivating. Its old town, with gothic style architecture and narrow streets, contrasted beautifully with the sandy beaches and turquoise water of the coast. Excellent seafood. Had a nice time visiting with friends who lived in the area.

Valencia (3 nights)
In Valencia, we discovered a fusion of historical and contemporary Spain. The city's futuristic City of Arts and Sciences was fun to explore, especially for an architecture nerd such as myself, while the old town, with its gothic cathedral and bustling central market, was nice to sit back and relax with an Horchata (originally from Valencia not Mexico) in the evening hours. The Valencia Opera House, a masterpiece of modern design, was a surreal experience to visit and see a performance of Carmen by the Spanish National Dance company.

Valencia felt like Barcelona did 20 years ago before mass tourism ruined much of that city. Clean, welcoming, safe, vibrant. I suggest Valencia to all who are looking for the “Barcelona” experience without the downsides.

We only did one day trip:

Castellon: Our least favorite day trip, very work a day, we explored the compact old town and the seaside area of this city. The highlight was the Mudejar bell tower, El Fadri, which provided panoramic views of the city.

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Matarraña Region (6 nights)
Leaving the coast, we journeyed to the Matarraña region, often referred to as the “Tuscany of Spain”. This is where we truly experienced the joys of deep Spain with its sprawling vineyards, olive groves, and ancient stone villages. The unspoiled Matarraña region is located in the province of Teruel in southern Aragon, here they speak a dialect of Catalan.

Matarraña is characterized by its verdant landscapes with wild rivers winding through. Rolling hills, deep gorges, and forests make it a prime destination for nature lovers and hikers. In our entire time in Matarraña, we never ran into a foreign tourist, everyone was either a local or a Spanish tourist, even being the height of the tourist season in Spain

Our home base, Beceite, was a small village with rustic stone houses and narrow cobbled streets. We stayed in an apartment called Casa Ronda, rented thru booking.com. With a car it was easy exploring the surrounding natural park with its rocky landscapes and crystal-clear rivers. We had a great time swimming in the emerald green wild rivers and lakes around Matarraña, very refreshing on a hot day.

We also visited:

Ancient Iberian Village of San Antonio de Calaceite: This site offers a glimpse into Spain's ancient past. Over two millennia old, the pre-Roman Iberian archaeological site is nestled amidst sprawling olive groves that add to its serene ambiance. The remnants of houses stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, and the intricate details on some ruins hint at the civilization's skilled craftsmanship. We had the whole site to ourselves!

Valderrobres (Vaderobles): This charming town, often considered one of Spain's prettiest, is dominated by its imposing medieval castle perched atop a hill. Cobblestone streets wind through the town, with Gothic and Renaissance architecture adding to its historic appeal. The Matarraña River flowing through the town adds to its picturesque charm.

Parrizal de Beceite: This natural wonder is a gorge that the Matarraña River has carved over millennia. With its towering rock walls, unique rock formations, and the gentle river flowing through, it's a favorite spot for trekkers and nature lovers. The trails leading through Parrizal offer varying levels of difficulty, ensuring there's something for everyone.

Charcas de la Pesquera: These are natural pools formed by the river, known for their crystal-clear waters. Surrounded by rocky outcrops and lush greenery, the Charcas was our favored spot for a refreshing dip, especially in summer. The waters are calm, making it suitable for families and those seeking a serene swim.

Calaceite: An embodiment of Matarraña's medieval charm, Calaceite is a town of narrow alleys, stone houses, and rich history. Its well-preserved historic center incorporated elements from its Iberian, Roman, and Moorish past. The town is also known for its cultural events and festivals that celebrate its diverse heritage.

Cretas: Another gem in the Matarraña region, Cretas is known for its historical architecture and scenic beauty. The town square is a lively hub of activity, surrounded by ancient structures. Just outside the town, one can find ancient rock paintings, a testament to the area's prehistoric inhabitants.

Transportation:

Our journey began with a smooth and comfortable ride aboard the high-speed Euro med train that whisked us from Barcelona to Alicante in no time. The scenic views from the train were just a teaser of what awaited us. Upon reaching Alicante, we quickly transitioned to our primary mode of transportation - a rented car through Alamo. This not only gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace but also allowed us to unearth hidden gems on our route. Handing the car back in Barcelona was seamless, making the entire transportation experience hassle-free.

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Weather:

Just a heads-up: the summer heat isn't a joke. Spain's summers have undeniably transformed. The days of just pausing for hydration and shade, are long gone, the current climatic conditions require stricter precautions. The once manageably warm summer days have evolved into scorching heatwaves with temperatures frequently breaching the 100+ F mark. Especially between 11:00 am to 5:00 pm, the sun's intensity is palpable, making it advisable to seek indoor activities. Among all our stops, Alicante bore the brunt of the sun, making it stifling, with Valencia trailing close behind. Matarranya was more comfortable, especially with all the swimming we did.

Food and Drink:

Our gastronomic journey was a bit of a roller coaster. The Vermut Alicantino, which quickly became our go-to aperitif while in the city.

In Alcoy, Restaurant Arrels took our taste buds by surprise. Their rendition of “Spanish Dim Sum”, which comprised of Salmorejo soup enveloped in delicate pouches of Iberico ham, was a revelation. Though it may not win a beauty contest, the explosion of flavors with every bite was unforgettable.

In a region celebrated for its rice dishes, our experiences in Alicante and Valencia were slightly underwhelming. Perhaps my tastes, having grown up with the Paellas of Barcelona, expected something different. However, our faith in rice dishes was restored in Tarragona at El Llagut, an excellent arroz caldoso con bogavante or creamy lobster rice.

Another addition to our list of favorites was Pericana, a traditional tapenade from Alicante. This blend of dried peppers, olive oil, and other ingredients smeared on freshly baked bread was pure bliss.

Conclusion:

If you're thinking about where to head next in Spain, don't just stick to the big names. Give places like the Matarraña region or Alicante a shot. It's not all a Disneyfied theme park, like some other parts of Spain, but it feels real, beautiful, and packed with stories waiting to be discovered. The best part you won’t be surrounded by foreigners waiting in lines all the time, but you’ll be experiencing Spain as a local with locals, the way it is meant to be. Don't be afraid to take the road less traveled!

Photos:

Here are some of my pictures from our roadtrip - https://photos.app.goo.gl/sMsd6Wz2fydGKYtr5

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Wow, thank you so much for this write-up -- I have bookmarked it for future travel! These places sound absolutely right up our alley.

I love the photos, especially of the festivities in Alicante. Beautiful!

Tell me, do you think traveling in Matarreña would be difficult for someone who does not speak Catalan? I speak Spanish well enough to get by and feel very comfortable off the main tourist drag in Spanish-speaking Spain, but no Catalan in my language library.

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Hi DebVT, thanks for your compliment! The locals in Matarraña or Matarranya (in Catalan) are equally bilingual in Spanish and Catalan.

Even in the most remote corners of Spain, Castellano will be the lingua franca, even if it's not habitually spoken by locals.

English however is another story, especially outside the main tourist zones.

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Definitely a bookmark for this report. And the added pictures just put it over the top, especially the picture of the jamon. It made my mouth water. I never ate ham that tasted as delicious as in Spain. It has ruined me for local ham, even Italian prosciutto.

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TexasTravelmom - I'd say late April and May to early June would be ideal :)

Barbara - yes once you try Jamon Iberico you can never go back lol! The best Prosciutto is like a mediocre Jamon, sorry my Italian brothers!

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Carlos, this trip looks fantastic. Thanks for the report. I love visiting small towns in Spain and I was unfamiliar with this area. I also went to visit Alicante and Valencia in late May. i was very impressed with Valencia.

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Great report and photos -- I'm glad you included the images with the banners of the confraternities that participate in the processions and provide the funds and talent to make the statues; this aspect of Las Fallas in Valencia and the equivalents in other cities like Alicante is important for a broader understanding than all those tourists who just drop in to see the fireworks and the burning.