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UK Trip Report April/May 26 - Part 5 London and Heathrow

UK Trip Report April/May 26- Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4,

London- 1 night

Hotel: For our final night in the UK, we stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn near Heathrow. Its proximity to Terminal 3 made it a convenient choice before our flight home. The hotel suited our needs well for a one-night stay, and we enjoyed dinner in the rooftop restaurant, although the prices were decidedly airport-hotel level.

Food: Our only food experience in London was afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason.

Highlights: London Canal Museum is a small but jam packed museum about the history of canals in the UK. This was a great conclusion to our canal-themed travel. Another unexpected highlight was a bus ride across London from the Canal Museum to Fortnum & Mason. The journey took about an hour and gave us a wonderful window into the city. We saw neighborhoods, landmarks, and everyday London life that we would have missed had we traveled underground. Another positive: We stored our luggage at a Stasher site right near King’s Cross and it worked very well.

Challenges: As I have mentioned (probably more than once), we are not city folk. The pace is not enjoyable for us. The main reason we decided to spend a day in London was to go to the British Library. While researching about Lindisfarne, I came across references to the Lindisfarne Gospels. This is an illuminated manuscript from around 700AD. Since we had missed seeing the Book of Kells during an earlier trip to Dublin, I was especially excited to view the manuscript. However, the manuscript is not at Lindisfarne but in the British Library Treasures collection. Some quick research revealed that the British Library is very close to King’s Cross station where we would be arriving from York. It is free and the Treasures collection had some other things of interest to us from Beatles to Beowulf. A plan was hatched to spend our final day in the UK in London at the British Library, the London Canal Museum and having afternoon tea at Fortnum and Mason. However when we got to the British Library we discovered that the Lindisfarne Gospels was on loan in Scotland. Despite our disappointment, we did really enjoy our time in the Treasures room. Our lovely bus ride across London was preceded by a less pleasant transportation experience. We attempted to use the FreeNow app, which cycled through dozens of drivers without anyone accepting the fare. Eventually we gave up, walked to a bus stop, and headed on our way—only to receive a message later saying “our driver” had arrived. We never connected with the driver but were charged anyway. Another challenge was not so much a challenge but a slight disappointment that the Afternoon Tea at Fortnum and Mason did not live up to our expectation or the reviews we had read. The services and surroundings were splendid but it really wasn't worth the cost compared to other afternoon teas we had enjoyed. The final challenge in London was returning to King’s Cross. We decided to take the “step-free” tube line, which ended up having stairs and was super crowded. Give me the bus any day. And then there was Heathrow…that story doesn’t bear repeating. Just a little sliver of it was 3 hours trapped sitting on the plane waiting for a fuel pump to be replaced before taking off for an 11 hour flight. We had upgraded to Premium Economy, so after all the hassle at the airport and the delay, we had a comfortable flight home.

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Final thoughts: Despite a more challenging end to our trip, it was wonderful, adventurous, instructive, and satisfying. We came away with such warm feelings towards people, places and experiences. We have no regrets—and we are already looking forward to our next trip. (Flights booked for May 3, 2027)

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12627 posts

Katie, sorry about the FreeNow app. Have you tried to contest the charge? I would consider doing so if you haven't. FWIW, I used them in Edinburgh in 2023 and didn't have any problems, but you never know what will happen.

That's also a shame about the LIndisfarne Gospels. Did they happen to mention where they were in Scotland? And how long they will be there for? I will be in Scotland next year, and would love to see them.

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I wonder if you got accurate information about the Lindisfarne gospels. Was there anything “official” like a notice about that, or was it just something someone told you? One would think that if this treasure was lent to somewhere in Scotland, or anywhere else, that it would be on display (or about to go on display) there and this would be well publicized— but there is not a peep anywhere online that I could see that it is anywhere other than at home in the British Library, and while it is occasionally lent, this last appears to have happened in Newcastle in 2022. Perhaps it was temporarily removed from display for conservation or to make room for something else in that fairly small gallery?

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Slate - It may have been inaccurate. It definitely wasn't there and when we ask in the Treasures Room, they didn't know why it wasn't there. When we ask at the information desk, they "thought" it was on loan to Scotland for some anniversary. If it was accurate, maybe something to do with Iona?

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Mardee- No, I didn't contest the charge, about £8.

See my answer to Slate about the Lindisfarne Gospels. Maybe I will do a little research and see what I can find.

Edited: I found that there "may" be a rest requirement for the manuscript and there "may" be a 7 year rule about travel which would mean it can't travel again until 2029. But this is from AI so who knows what's true.

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12022 posts

I don't know about the original Gospels but there is a facsimile copy (one of 6 in the world) currently at Haltwhistle for anyone in the area- on show at the Community Room of Haltwhistle Hospital 1030 to 12 noon on 8 July , Greenhead Village Hall 10 July 1430-1700 and Knarsdale Village Hall 11 July 1430-1700.
Free entry to each event.

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Katie, I emailed the British Library as I was curious, and here is their response. It sounds like they have not been on loan. But according to the email, they have been pulled from being displayed (resting process) and won't be back until October of this year. So AI was correct about the resting and about the next loan period.

..........................................................

Dear ___________),

The Lindisfarne Gospels are currently at the British Library in London and are not on loan. They have been rested from display here since April this year and will next be exhibited in our Treasures Gallery in London from October 2026 until March 2028. After that, the manuscript will again be rested from display for six months.

The Lindisfarne Gospels are available for loan not more than once in every seven years. The most recent loan was to the Laing Art Gallery in Newcastle from September to December 2022, so the next loan will be at least seven years after that.

The whole manuscript is digitised online. Click on the thumbnail image within this link to view the images:
Cotton MS Nero D IV - British Library Archives and Manuscripts Catalogue

Best wishes,

Zoe Stansell
Manuscripts Reference Service

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Mardee- Very interesting! That is what I had concluded based on responses and my research. Maybe someday my timing will be right :) Thanks for following up!

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After spending the night on Holy Island (Lindesfarne's location) several years ago, I was eager to view the Gospels at the British Library, and I was able to do so.

I love visiting the treasures at the British Library - I'm glad you were able to see other items that were of interest to you!

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Wonderful that you were able to see the Lindisfarne Gospels. I hope to see them one day. Maybe I will get a chance on my May 2027 trip although it might be difficult to persuade my husband to return to London.