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Two weeks in Paris

I recently returned from two weeks in Paris. Had a wonderful time. The Hotel Relais Medicis was clean, comfortable and pretty to look at, and the staff were helpful. The location (one block from the Luxembourg Garden) can't be beat.

Two small additions I would make to the Rick Steves Paris guide. I am going off the 2011 edition, so apologies if my comments are no longer relevant.

1: If you love churches, then see Saint Eustache! It's easy to get to (right by the Les Halles metro station), and spectacularly beautiful both inside and out ... in my opinion it's just as much worth seeing as Notre Dame. It has a warm, colorful atmosphere that I did not find in any other church. Also, it's not crowded at all. And there are free organ recitals, just as at Saint Sulpice.

2: In the 2011 Paris guide, Rick suggests that the Treasury at Notre Dame is not worth the price of admission. I disagree. I thought it was well worth 5 euros, especially because it gives you the chance to see some stained glass up close and personal.

Posted by
359 posts

I'm going to Paris in June and St Eustache has been on my list for awhile. Can't wait!

Posted by
15035 posts

Thanks. I'm off to Paris in a week and getting very excited, even though it's my umpteenth visit.

When are the organ recitals?

Any other out-of-the-way things to put on my ever-growing list?

Posted by
6 posts

Chani, the organ recital I heard was at 5 or 5:30 PM on a Sunday. I don't think there is a regular schedule, though I could be wrong. There are some nice ladies in the information booth who will be glad to help you out. You could stop by early in your visit to find out the schedule, and then again for the recital. St Eustache is certainly worth seeing twice.

As for other out of the way places to see ... you probably know more than I do, since this was my first visit, and it sounds like you have been to Paris many times. But I made it a point to see some of the lesser-known churches. St Sulpice is very much worth seeing (though more somber than St Eustache IMO), and also has organ recitals after Mass on Sundays. The La Madeleine church was different and interesting, with some beautiful statuary. Finally, at St Germain l'Auxerrois (right next to the Louvre ... not the St Germain on the Left Bank), I happened to walk in as a Gregorian Mass (seemed to be 100% chanting) was underway, and that was mystical and moving. Really, from my experience, you can't go wrong just wandering into random churches.

Have a great trip.