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Twenty-one Days in Scandinavia Trip Report

My sister and I plan a trip together every year. In May, we finally were able to take our COVID-delayed trip to Scandinavia. Basically, we went from Stockholm to the west coast of Sweden to Copenhagen and ended in Norway. During our trip, we traveled by plane, train, bus, auto and ferry and stayed in 10 different hotels. It was a fabulous time.

Every year, when we get home, I always plan to make a trip report but somehow, it never gets out of Word. This time, I'm going to try typing it directly into the thread and break it up by segment. Hopefully, I get to the end of the trip this time. Here we go!

Icelandair Flights:

We left Denver on a Friday night and flew on Icelandair to Stockholm. We'd never taken them before and overall, it was a great experience. One of our requirements is that our first leg takes us out of the USA. Check. We also returned from Bergen, NO which worked very well logistically for us. We booked in November and got extended legroom seats. Next time, I will definitely look into Saga Class. Not knowing what to expect, I also pre-booked meals on each leg. We checked bags which worked well for us. Note: The airline was extremely picky about carry-on sizes/quantity in Denver and many people were forced to do a gate-check. It didn't seem as stringent on the way back.

This flight had good timing and left around 5 pm directly to Reykjavik. I even worked part of the day before leaving. The seats were worth it. On each leg, they brought the meals very soon after takeoff. We probably could have done without meals on the shorter segments but they were all good. The 7+ hour flight was comfortable and the movies interesting. As a side note, most of the bathrooms are in the back of the plane. We were in the front and nobody gave us a hard time for using the bathroom in First Class. My sister was pleased. The flight was completely full going out but much more comfortable coming back.

The transfer in KEF was not exactly what I expected. Ours were tight in both directions. Honestly, I hadn't expected bus gates instead of jetways. Be aware, there will be stairs to get on and off the plane. Make sure you can manage your carry-ons. When you jump off the packed bus, expect to walk for a long ways in a herd of people. There weren't a lot of bathrooms in the airport. Going through immigration was chaotic. My advice is to pay attention, listen up and look out for an advantage to get into a shorter line. It worked for us. Even though we barely had an hour to transfer, it all turned out fine.

The leg to Stockholm was less than three hours and passed quickly. It was a 7:45 am flight and hardly anybody was on it. Landing and picking up our bags went very smoothly. On to the city!

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Stockholm was amazing! It was clean, bright and convenient. Our grandfather was Swedish and it felt...comfortable. We look Swedish enough that everybody would speak to us in Swedish but we're not Swedish enough to actually speak Swedish. We'd say, "Sorry, American." and people would switch languages mid-sentence. After being there, I understand now why I really dislike braggards, despise line-jumpers and need a plant on every sunny windowsill. My urge to jaywalk is all-American.

Food was interesting but not memorable. We did a lot of daily specials of meatballs for lunch. Our go-to was the MAX burger across the street from the hotel to pickup a late meal. Their selection of beef, chicken and plant-based burgers was great. I love the haloumi cheese sandwich.

Upon arrival, we took the Arlanda Express. It was fast and comfortable. Our hotel, The Frey, was very close to the Central Station. We're always doing the calculus on close to transportation v. close to attractions. On this trip, getting hotels close to the stations won.

The Frey is a family-owned hotel just a couple of blocks from the train. We booked early and for five nights which gave us an advantageous price. We stayed on an upper floor with a balcony. The room was big and we had a "kitchenette" area with a mini-fridge, microwave and second sink. It was bright, airy and quiet. I never found any climate-control in the room and we used a fan most nights. The staff was helpful and the breakfast good. The hotel restaurant wasn't appealing or friendly and we didn't like the Belgian beer. Hence, MAX Burger.

The mid-May weather was mixed. We had a couple of hot days, two drizzly days and one that was very comfortable. We were happy to have closed-toed shoes and raincoats.

On our arrival day, it was very hot. While we wait to check in, we walked around trying to find Gamla Stan. It was a bit of a walk from the hotel but there was interesting shopping, the river and government buildings. Somehow, we just never got to Gamla Stan proper until one day, there it was!

We bought Stockholm passes for this part of our trip. I can't say if it was a great deal but it was convenient. I wish they had the hop on/hop off option for each day of the pass. We walked a lot and only bought transportation passes for one day.

Our first full day was a beautiful Sunday. We bussed to Skansen which was buzzing with special happenings. There's no better way to get over jetlag than a lot of walking and interaction on a sunny day. We really enjoyed it.

The next day was supposed to be the last sunny day and we wanted to catch a boat to Vaxholm. Alas, there were engine problems and the trip was cancelled. That had to keep for another day when it was cold, rainy and we felt trapped on a closed up Vaxholm. (Okay, it was beautiful but we were there way longer than we wanted to be.)
However, on this day, we ended up at the Vasa Museum which fulfilled our every expectation. We did the naff Viking Experience but skipped the Spirits Museum.

Tuesday, we visited the Royal Palace. The Vasa to Bernadotte exhibit was very interesting. Walking out, we happened into the changing of the guards and finally found the real Gamla Stan. After lunch, we took a canal boat tour.

Leaving the boat tour, we walked into Kungsträdgården park where we found a big crowd of people waiting around a stage. As we didn't have any place to be, we decided to stick around. Waves of Swedish from the stage flowed over us while everyone waited. We didn't have a clue what was happening. Finally, a woman came out, sang a song and everyone dispersed.

Later that night, we went to the Ice Bar. I showed them a picture and the barperson was so excited. She said that was the Loreen who had won the Eurovision song contest for Sweden...again.

Stockholm was wonderful but we had to go to our next stop: West Sweden.

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Thank you for sharing this, it's interesting to read about your impression of Scandinavia!

We look Swedish enough that everybody would speak to us in Swedish but
we're not Swedish enough to actually speak Swedish.

Sorry to break your illusion, but this is Sweden, we will speak to anyone in Swedish unless we have a good reason not to…

Food was interesting but not memorable. We did a lot of daily specials
of meatballs for lunch. Our go-to was the MAX burger across the street
from the hotel to pickup a late meal.

You should have bought a can of surströmming, then the food would have been really memorable :) But MAX is not a bad option to be honest if you just want some quick food.

It was a bit of a walk from the hotel but there was interesting
shopping, the river and government buildings.

To be nitpicking, there is no river in Stockholm. The city is built where lake Mälaren meets the Baltic sea.

We bussed to Skansen which was buzzing with special happenings.
There's no better way to get over jetlag than a lot of walking and
interaction on a sunny day. We really enjoyed it.

Sounds like a great way to start your stay in Stockholm. Although I'm a bit confused about the word bussed. The easiest way to get to Skansen is the tram in my opinion. Or ferry, if you're coming from Södermalm or Gamla stan.

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CT, thank you for starting your informative trip report. We’re heading to Denmark and Norway (but not Sweden) in September, and I’m looking forward to reading about your visits there.

May … was this a bit off-season, before the high season of summer? Did you find things with restricted hours, or even not open, because it wasn’t July? Did that. influence or affect your trip planning, and/or your experiences once in Scandinavia?

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From Stockholm, we trained to Gothenburg/Goteborg and the West Coast of Sweden.

Booking this train journey gave me more trouble than any aspect of the trip. For weeks, everytime I tried to nail it down, I got a message that the schedule wasn't sorted yet due to track maintenance. Badger solved this mystery by explaining that track maintenance is often done over the Ascension Day holiday. Travel lesson learned: check the local holidays. Eventually, I was able to get the train I wanted which was packed.

During the COVID lockdown, I started looking at the Bohuslan Coast and was struck by the beauty of it. The area reminded me of parts of the California coastline. It called to me.

Our first step was to rent a car in Gothenburg. We don't usually do cars but public transportation didn't seem to be the best option for this leg. We picked up a car, a newly-new Lexis, at the Central Station. Once we got the GPS programmed for English, it was smooth sailing. Since it was a public holiday, there was blessedly little traffic. I drove and once I started breathing, it was a beautiful drive. The roads were well-maintained and the bridges spectacular. Watch out for the speed cameras and roundabouts!

Our destination for three nights was the Salt & Sil Hotel in Kladesholmen. This floating hotel intrigued me during my research. There were pluses and minuses. It was a bit remote and some things hadn't opened yet. There's no nightlife and only the hotel restaurant. We learned later that most people generally stay for only one night while touring the coast. Good boat mooring, though.

The rooms are small, clean and serviceable with a view and fridge. Kinda like a boat cabin. The restaurant was very good and there was a bar. Everyone who worked there was helpful and friendly. The breakfast was plentiful. We got a room rate that included a 4-course meal one night and a picnic lunch the next day. Both were excellent. You can book the floating sauna. The sunsets from the rooftop were wonderful. Parking is a little distant but it was quiet. It had a nice feel.

We drove into Uddevalla one day. I'll admit, we didn't plan this part with our usual detail. We went to the Skalbank (Shellbank with prehistoric shell deposits). My feet hurt and we didn't walk far enough to find the best of it. We drove around town a bit. At the Bohus Museum, we had amazing open-faced shrimp sandwiches. So good. We found a market, got some supplies and headed back.

The next day, we were the first people into the Bohus Fastning. We really enjoyed walking around there. It would be great with kids. I wasn't brave enough to get a raspberry-licorice ice cream. On the way back, we went to Tjorn which also would have been a nice place to stay.

At a cafe/garden center on some out-there crossroads, we stopped for lunch. The cafe owner was a lovely woman who introduced us to beet salad on a cold meatball sandwich. They were tasty and we had a nice chat with her. She loved that my sister is from Alaska. On the way out, she gifted us with some delicious, homemade cookies. It was the best part of the day!

Our time on the coast was a slow, restorative experience. I had started the vacation tired and stressed out from work and a busy life. Five days in Stockholm was great but not exactly relaxing. It was on the Bohuslan Coast that I finally unwound and found peace. It made me understand the Swedish concept of getting away into nature for 72 hours to lessen stress. It certainly worked for me.

How we did the coast might not be for everybody but we loved it. We didn't do a ton of sightseeing nor ticked every box. We didn't get to Marstrand which would be a good reason to go back. It would have been fun to go farther north. However, it was beautiful and just what we needed.

Rested and ready for more, on a Sunday morning, we drove back to Gothenburg. Once again, no traffic!

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Getting back to Gothenburg on a Sunday was fast. I'm glad we drove in and out of the town during low-traffic periods as there were a lot of confusing construction and detours on the streets around the station. Even our GPS got screwed up. It would have been nerve-wracking on a regular business day. There were no issues with the Sixt rental car.

For our two nights in Gothenburg, we stayed at the Hotel Odin which is part of the Clarion brand. Although visible from the station, it was a 3-4 block walk passed several other hotels including another Clarion. We were pleasantly surprised. I'm not going to say that this was a charming hotel with a lot of character. We've stayed at plenty of those. However, it was surprisingly nice, affordable and very functional.

What set the Hotel Odin apart were the amenities. The lobby is a huge, airy place in the center of the building. The other floors look down on it. There is a bar to order something cold, easy chairs for lounging and lots of tables for meals with access to a courtyard. A full breakfast AND dinner were part of the rate. The dinner was far better than I ever expected. One night was manicotti and the next, yoghurt-marinated chicken. There were salads, side dishes and bread to accompany it. Fika, in the form of some sweet treats and coffee, was available between 3-5. Our room, though dark, was very large with a full but unstocked kitchen. A Coop Market was on the corner. It was a quiet and comfortable hotel. If we'd known, we could have booked a time to do our laundry. Opportunities missed and we continued our sink-washing routine.

The big Nordstan shopping district was steps away. It's a real shopping center and doesn't have much in the way of tourist things. On a Sunday, it was cheerful and busy. With all the walking, my big toe had become a misery and I bought a pair of walking sandals here. As people who travel with only the shoes on our feet, this was a big step but saved the trip. Yes, I was that tourist in the clunky, walking sandals and I have no regrets!

If there is one thing I will remember about Gothenburg, it is the smell of lilacs. We chased spring through Scandinavia and this town was bursting with it. The lilac bushes, in many colors, were in bloom everywhere. The scent was pervasive. I never thought that such a big town could smell so good. Both of our days there had perfect weather that was on the warm side.

We spent the our time meandering around the town. We walked through the park, by the river, passed the opera house and down the leafy boulevard that led to the Haga. We got to the Haga on a cruise ship afternoon. There were tables set up selling ginormous cinnamon rolls. There was no sign of these tables the next day! We did have an excellent hazy IPA from the local Odd Island Brewery at a chain pub.

On our full day, we did the fun Ocean Bus tour. I've done these in other places and they provide a different view of a city. We drove passed landmarks and then plunged into the water to go past the shipping areas. It was only an hour and a bit pricey but enjoyable. The guide was humorous.

As this was our last day in Sweden, we set off in search of another shrimp sandwich. The Fish Church is temporarily closed and the other food market didn't appeal.
From the Ocean Bus, I'd seen what looked like a "food trucks" and that seemed like a good bet. We walked up the hill, clear to the statue of Poseidon but never found them. Eventually, we ended up at a small French restaurant where we had a delicious shrimp salad. It was worth the walk.

Somehow, we never figured out the bus and tram system but put in plenty of steps. It's a pretty town. If we'd had another day and more ambition, we would have made our way to Marstrand.

I'm not sure we'd target Gothenburg as a destinate again but it was a good gateway to a lot of other places. It's a thoroughly nice town.