Please sign in to post.

Twelve Days in Turkey

I'm currently at Istanbul Airport waiting for my flight to Baku, Azerbaijan, for three weeks in the Caucasus. I just finished a 12-day trip in Turkey, my first time here. Since I think a lot of what I did duplicates the things most visitors to Turkey do, I won't do a full day-by-day breakdown. (If you're interested, I've done that in my blog -- link in my bio.)

I worked with a company called Turkey Insiders. I told them how many days I had, and they came up with an itinerary. I made a few minor tweaks, but mostly went with what they came up with. They were great to work with, very helpful, very accommodating, very quick to respond to my questions or concerns before and during the trip. They arranged all my in-country travels and hotels (except Istanbul, where I booked my own), and they booked all my tours, except for three free days I gave myself in Istanbul. They used some of their own guides for some of the tours, and in other cases they booked me on tours with other tour companies.

Next time I come to Turkey, I might do it all myself, but this was really stress-free, not worrying about anything. They told me what time to be where. I just showed up and they took care of the rest.

Istanbul

I arrived mid-morning (Turkish Airlines direct from Mexico City. This may be my new favorite airline.) I stayed at the Doruk Palas Hotel. Lovely family-run hotel with a great staff. Convenient location about 8 minutes walk to Galata Tower and the same to Galata Bridge, about 10 minutes to Karaköy Ferry Terminal. But the surrounding neighborhood was not really nice. Not unsafe or sketchy, just filled with a lot of uninteresting things.

I had the first day free, and I booked an evening walking food tour with Taste of Istanbul. We started at Karaköy Ferry Terminal and worked our way up to Istiklal Street (using the Tünel to avoid walking up the hill). I recommend them.

Next two days I had tours of the highlights of the city arranged by Turkey Insiders. I thought the Bosporus cruise that was part of that was a bit of a letdown. The boat was crowded and not comfortable, and I really didn't find the sights along the water to be all that interesting.

I had a Hamam experience at Kılıc Ali Pasa (recommended in RS Istanbul). Loved it!

The next day I had an all-day food tour that covered both sides of the Bosporus. This was with Culinary Backstreets. The guide was great, the food was interesting and varied, and the ferry across to the Asia side was more pleasant than the Bosporus cruise.

After we got back, I hit up Rustem Pasha Mosque and Suleymaniye Mosque, which weren't covered on the first two days' tours. Suleymaniye Mosque was a real highlight. If you're in Istanbul, this is one mosque I would not skip.

Next day I took a ferry up the Golden Horn to Fener/Balat and I walked around there for a while. Charming neighborhoods, very few tourists. From there I did the reverse of RS City Walls walk, including a stop at the Tekfur Palace Museum. I enjoyed this, though I don't think it's something to squeeze in on a short visit.

I did the long walk back, with a stop at Fatih Mosque. I don't think this mosque even gets a mention in RS Istanbul, but I loved it.

That night I went to the Whirling Dervishes and Rhythm of the Dance at Hodjapasha. Whirling Dervishes - I kind of felt like an intruder; it was weird to watch people "performing" a religious ritual. Rhythm of the Dance was fun.

Posted by
1743 posts

My last day in Istanbul I went to the Cistern of Theodosius. I wanted to go to Basilica Cistern, but I heard how crowded it can be, and read that Cistern of Theodosius is much less crowded. There were only about 20 people in there while I was there. I think it's a good alternative. Not as big as Basilica Cistern, but probably similar. The light shows were very impressive.

Then I went back to the Grand Bazaar, which we did a walkthrough of on the first Turkey Insiders tour. This time I did the walking tour out of the RS guidebook. I really appreciated the context that provided, which I didn't get on the previous visit.

Time to board my flight to Baku, so I'll continue later.

Posted by
3183 posts

Thanks Lane, I will check out your blog, but I have to admit, I’m only interested in the Turkey portion of your trip, because the Caucuses don’t interest me and I know I will never go there. Unlike you, I want to see the “biggies”! I. e. Where everyone else is going!

Posted by
6733 posts

Thanks for the update (and glad you enjoyed flying Turkish Air, which I believe I suggested).

The Caucasus are high on my list (though right now are particularly challenging in some areas - as I'm sure you are aware; keep following the news and stay safe). I'll be following your reports.

Sounds like an epic adventure. Have fun!

Posted by
4540 posts

Lane, thanks for your writeup.

I love this comment in one of your Turkey blog entries: "No matter how many different sites I’ve been to on this trip, I’ve seen things that have consistently blown me away."

That's how I felt at every new exotic, ancient or personal encounter in Turkey. I'm so glad to read your enthusiasm for your visit!

Posted by
4540 posts

I was trying to think why I enjoyed my Bosphorus cruise adventures so much more than you describe. I came up with this.

I was on the Bosphorus cruises with the RS Best of Turkey and RS Best of Istanbul tours. Our first cruise was on the last day of the Istanbul tour, a change in the usual tour itinerary. By then, we knew our tour mates and were friendly with them. It was an outing with new friends enjoying sights we had visited as a group and new things we only saw from the water. We had the uncrowded cruise boat to ourselves and snapped photos along the way to remember new friendships as we chatted together about our experiences. It felt like the sunny afternoon ending to a great week together.

I reflect on my own comment and chuckle, since this is a realization I've only made in retrospect. And me, usually an avowed solo traveler ;-)

Posted by
1743 posts

I'm going to continue with the overview of my twelve days in Turkey, but first I want to respond to a few of your comments.

Tammy, I certainly understand wanting to travel to the "biggies." I still have some biggies left to visit, and I don't plan to skip them in favor of places that are not worth visiting. But I guess that begs the question, what places are not worth visiting? I just finished five days in Azerbaijan, waiting in the airport in Baku for my flight to Tbilisi. (The original plan was to go by car, but the land borders have been closed since Covid. Baku was never at the top of my bucket list, but after several days here, I can say this: it should be on everyone's bucket list. It's a fabulous city, a mix of old and new, subdued and brilliant, sedate and bustling. It has one of the nicest urban spaces I've seen anywhere in the form of a broad pedestrian space along the shore of the Caspian Sea. The walled Old City rivals similar places in cities I've visited all over Europe. (Actually, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia are generally thought of as being in Europe, which seems odd, since they are east of Anatolia, the Asian part of Turkey.) There is some spectacular scenery as you get away from Baku and into the mountains. And yesterday in Sheki I visited the most beautiful palace I think I've ever seen. Google "Sheki Khan Palace" and look at the image results.

David, the challenges (I think you are referring to the skirmishes with Armenia over Nagorno-Karabakh) are far from anywhere I've visited, and they have died down for the time being. The troubles predate the dissolution of the Soviet Union. I did spend a good part of a drive the other day stuck behind an army convoy that I think was returning from that region, and I have seen some signs that I think said something like "Never forget Karabakh." And in some villages I drove through there are large signs with portraits of soldiers who have been killed in the conflict. But there were no challenges in terms of it feeling like this is a war-torn country.

CWsocial, it does sound like your Bosporus cruise vessel was much nicer than the one I was on.

Posted by
1743 posts

To finish my report about Istanbul, I neglected to mention the Valens Aqueduct. I love finding aqueducts wherever I go.

Outside the food tours, I had some excellent meals. I'll just mention the restaurants I liked the best: Havuzlu (in the Grand Bazaar, recommended in RS Istanbul); Arada Endülüs, a Lebanese place near the Kılıc Ali Pasa Hamam; and Kadim Meyhane, in a narrow street near the Beyoglu end of the Tünel. Also, great cheesecake at Viyana Kahvesi, very close to Galata Tower.

From Istanbul I flew to Izmir and got a car transfer to Kusadasi. I'll pick it up from there next time.

Posted by
1743 posts

Again, I'm not here to share a day-by-day summary of my trip. Just want to mention things that are particular to my trip.

Kusadasi, Ephesus, Pamukkale

After Istanbul I flew to Izmir and got a ride from the airport to my hotel in Kusadasi.

I stayed three nights at the Ilaya Avantgarde Hotel (recommended in RS Istanbul). I agree with the recommendation. Breakfast room was really great, with a nice view of the Aegean Sea, and the location is very central.

The first day I did a tour to Ephesus, and the second day to Pamukkale. A lot of fuss seems to be made about the travertine pools in Pamukkale, but for me the real attraction there was the ruins of Hierapolis. We entered at the south gate and didn't have the opportunity to visit the necropolis, which was very disappointing. If you go there, get a tour that includes the necropolis.

I didn't eat any meals during those days that are worth mentioning or recommending.

After the Pamukkale/Hierapolis tour, I went back to Kusadasi for one more night, and then had an early morning flight out of Izmir the next day, to Antalya. It would have made much more sense to go from Pamukkale to Antalya by ground transfer, as it's about the same distance as going back to Kusadasi.

Antalya

I stayed two nights at the Elegance East Hotel, right on the edge of the Old City. Highly recommended. The Old City of Antalya is very charming. Because my flight was very early, I had almost a full day free to explore Antalya. It's actually a great place to have down time.

The second day I had a tour to Perge, Aspendos, and Side. I actually think these were some of my favorite ruins. Perge is smaller than Ephesus or Hierapolis, and less restored, which I appreciated, since many of the restorations elsewhere are less than accurate.

The theatre at Aspendos is remarkable for how well it is preserved, but since it is used for modern performances, things like lighting and stage fixtures get in the way somewhat. Side has impressive remains of a temple of Apollo.

One excellent lunch I had in Antalya was at Çıtır Balık - quick fast-food style seafood place. And I had a great dinner at Begonvil.

Cappadocia

I had another early morning flight, from Antalya to Kayseri, and had full days of sightseeing on that day and the next. One thing to be aware of is that Kayseri Airport is a little over an hour from all the different towns in Cappadocia, and there are shuttle vans that take you between Cappadocia and the airport. These can be very crammed and very uncomfortable, and if you're the last dropoff from the airport or the first pickup to the airport, you might have a long ride.

I stayed in Ürgüp, in a hotel I don't recommend, so I won't mention it. But the town is really nice. I stayed two nights. Had an excellent meail there at Apetito; very highly recommended.

The hot air balloon experience is not in any way over-hyped. It was spectacular!

I think I saw as much as you can see in two days. But I wish I'd had more time. I saw everything in organized tours. They were very small groups (three of us the first day, five the second day), which was great. I just wish I had some independent time while I was there.


I'm currently in Kutaisi, Georgia. Azerbaijan and Georgia have been amazing! As great as Baku was, Tbilisi was even more special. I have one more day here, then two days in Akhaltsikhe, Georgia, with a day trip to Vardzia, then four nights in Yerevan, Armenia, then a final day in Istanbul before I fly home, so I'll report once more on my last day in Istanbul.