I'm currently at Istanbul Airport waiting for my flight to Baku, Azerbaijan, for three weeks in the Caucasus. I just finished a 12-day trip in Turkey, my first time here. Since I think a lot of what I did duplicates the things most visitors to Turkey do, I won't do a full day-by-day breakdown. (If you're interested, I've done that in my blog -- link in my bio.)
I worked with a company called Turkey Insiders. I told them how many days I had, and they came up with an itinerary. I made a few minor tweaks, but mostly went with what they came up with. They were great to work with, very helpful, very accommodating, very quick to respond to my questions or concerns before and during the trip. They arranged all my in-country travels and hotels (except Istanbul, where I booked my own), and they booked all my tours, except for three free days I gave myself in Istanbul. They used some of their own guides for some of the tours, and in other cases they booked me on tours with other tour companies.
Next time I come to Turkey, I might do it all myself, but this was really stress-free, not worrying about anything. They told me what time to be where. I just showed up and they took care of the rest.
Istanbul
I arrived mid-morning (Turkish Airlines direct from Mexico City. This may be my new favorite airline.) I stayed at the Doruk Palas Hotel. Lovely family-run hotel with a great staff. Convenient location about 8 minutes walk to Galata Tower and the same to Galata Bridge, about 10 minutes to Karaköy Ferry Terminal. But the surrounding neighborhood was not really nice. Not unsafe or sketchy, just filled with a lot of uninteresting things.
I had the first day free, and I booked an evening walking food tour with Taste of Istanbul. We started at Karaköy Ferry Terminal and worked our way up to Istiklal Street (using the Tünel to avoid walking up the hill). I recommend them.
Next two days I had tours of the highlights of the city arranged by Turkey Insiders. I thought the Bosporus cruise that was part of that was a bit of a letdown. The boat was crowded and not comfortable, and I really didn't find the sights along the water to be all that interesting.
I had a Hamam experience at Kılıc Ali Pasa (recommended in RS Istanbul). Loved it!
The next day I had an all-day food tour that covered both sides of the Bosporus. This was with Culinary Backstreets. The guide was great, the food was interesting and varied, and the ferry across to the Asia side was more pleasant than the Bosporus cruise.
After we got back, I hit up Rustem Pasha Mosque and Suleymaniye Mosque, which weren't covered on the first two days' tours. Suleymaniye Mosque was a real highlight. If you're in Istanbul, this is one mosque I would not skip.
Next day I took a ferry up the Golden Horn to Fener/Balat and I walked around there for a while. Charming neighborhoods, very few tourists. From there I did the reverse of RS City Walls walk, including a stop at the Tekfur Palace Museum. I enjoyed this, though I don't think it's something to squeeze in on a short visit.
I did the long walk back, with a stop at Fatih Mosque. I don't think this mosque even gets a mention in RS Istanbul, but I loved it.
That night I went to the Whirling Dervishes and Rhythm of the Dance at Hodjapasha. Whirling Dervishes - I kind of felt like an intruder; it was weird to watch people "performing" a religious ritual. Rhythm of the Dance was fun.