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Trip report: Wengen Switzerland June 2023

We spent 5 nights in Wengen at Chalet Gerbera. We were 6 people and rented the attic apartment and 2nd floor apartments. Both were wonderful. The view from the balcony is breathtaking.

We arrived in Lauterbrunnen by van from Stresa, and had reserved parking in the garage at the train station. No problem parking a 8-seater full size van. Plenty of spots available.

We bought Half Fare Cards and Bernese Oberland Passes at the train station. We were given paper passes. This turned out to be a pain because the gondolas have scanners, but our passes would not scan. So we always had to get the attention of a worker to let us through the turnstiles.

On our arrival day, we stopped at the Coop right before our 6:30 reservation at the Eiger Restaurant. The Coop gets very busy right before closing. It has a good selection of bakery items for the next day’s breakfast, along with very tasty pre-made sandwiches right up front near the produce. And of course, wonderful chocolate! We found multi-packs of chocolate bars with beautiful mountain scenes to bring home for friends.

Dinner was good and we were smart to make a reservation for 6 outside. Meals were about 10 CHF more than we were used to paying in Italy. For example, a pasta dish that would have cost 16€ in Italy would cost 26 CHF in Switzerland. But grocery store prices were not that much higher.

Day 1: We had laundry facilities (both washer AND dryer - what a treat!) So we did some laundry in the morning. Weather was cloudy so we took the train at 10:42 down to Lake Brienz. Explored a little then took the boat to Hotel Giessbach for lunch. Took the boat to Interlaken OST, then train back to Lauterbrunnen. Explored town a bit, stoped at the grocery for some items for dinner, then returned to the apartment.

Day 2: Another partly cloudy morning. We kept watching the weather with hopes for making the trip to Jungfraujoch. Today was not the day. So we went down to Lauterbrunnen, then took the gondola to Grutschalp, then train to Murren. Then funicular to Allmendhubel. It was pretty much empty. We played in the playground (yes, 6 adults!) and stopped for hot chocolate at the restaurant. Explored Murren, took the cable car to Gimmelwald, then down to Stechelberg. Took the bus back to town, wanting to have lunch at the Camping restaurant but they were closed until 3. Stopped for lunch at the Horner Pub and had good burgers, ham & cheese pretzels. Then took the train to Grindelwald and the gondola to First. Did the thrill walk, then took the train back to Lauterbrunnen via Kleinne Scheidigg. Such gorgeous scenery. You really can’t be prepared for how spectacular it each. Each place gives you totally different views.

Day 3: Finally a clear morning with perfect condition at Jungfraujoch. We left from Wengenwald at 7:38, connecting on to first train to Jungfraujoch. Transferred at Eigergleisher, where there were different lines for reservations or no reservations. We did not have reservations. Everyone got on the train. Arrived at 9:11. Did the full tour, including a stop for hot chocolate at the “snow fun” area (20 CHF zipline rides available). Stopped in the gift shops, did a bit of shopping. Left on the 11:47 train. We were the only people in our train car. The trains coming up the mountain were almost completely full.

We had decided we wanted to return to First and ride the mountain carts, so I bought tickets while we were at the Jungfraujoch. We took the Eiger Express down to Grindelwald Terminal and put our cold weather clothes in a packable tote bag and checked it at the train station for 5 CHF. We took the train to Grindelwald, then the bus to First, although we could have walked from the train station.

To be continued

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We stopped for lunch in town. Then we took the gondola up to the station for the mountain carts and waited about an hour. During that time the clouds were rolling in. Right when we got to the front of the line it started to rain. Oh boy. Of course all our jackets were back in the Terminal station. It was quite an experience riding those carts down the mountain in the rain. I went very slow and careful, but I can’t say the same for my teens or brother in law (who flipped his cart!). Thankfully no major injuries. Just soaked and dirty from mud being kicked up by the tires. What a sight we were! We returned the carts and got in line to take the gondola down. That’s when the thunder started - and the gondolas stopped. And we waited. And waited. After about an hour they started up again. But by this time EVERYBODY was trying to get down the mountain. Since we were at a station mid-mountain, we had to fill any available empty seats in gondolas coming down from the top. It took a while.

Due to the delay, we had to take the train back to Lauterbrunnen instead of the Eiger Express as planned, since it was already past 5 pm. We picked up the bag we had checked at the station, picked up some sandwiches at the Coop at the station, and headed back to Wengen.

Despite the very long and tiring day, my sister and I made our way back to Wengen for the 8:45 folk music. It is held in a big tent behind the tennis courts. They had bread & brats for sale for 8CHF, I think, and some desserts for 4-5 CHF. Local crafters were making & selling lace ornaments. The Wengen yodeling group sang and someone played the big horn. It felt like a combination of both locals and tourists attending.

Day 4: rain was in the forecast so we went to Trummelbach falls. Took the bus from Lauterbrunnen. Took the elevator up to level 6. From that point you can walk up the stairs to see levels 7-10, or you can walk down to see levels 1-6. I chose the second option. My husband (who is afraid of heights) chose to take the elevator back down after starting the walk. It’s a bit scary, and wet. Kids under 4 are not allowed for good reason. The falls are incredibly powerful. Up to 20,000 liters per second! I’ve never seen anything like it. We returned to Lauterbrunnen by bus for lunch at Base Camp, including fondue (very good). We shopped a bit, then returned to Wengen to explore the village a bit. We really liked the Made in Switzerland shop. We had dinner at Da Sina and had very good (and reasonably priced) pizza and salads.

We did some more laundry and started packing for departure the next day. Leaving that balcony and those views was so sad. That will forever be one of my happy places. The train ride to/from Wengen has to be one of the most beautiful anywhere.

Day 5: we had a late checkout around noon and had a taxi pick us up to haul our bags up the hill to Wengen. The trains are pretty crowded in the mornings with people leaving with luggage. It wasn't too bad on the train around 12:15.

At the parking garage, our pre-paid ticket wouldn’t let us (in our big van) out of the gate. I had to go upstairs and get a different ticket from the cashier. But finally we departed and easily made our way toward Colmar. Along the way, we stopped at a little village where my 14th grandmother was born in 1553. That was very cool.

What we learned: Lauterbrunnen is very busy. Construction in Murren is very loud. Get up early and you’ll beat the crowds. Don’t underestimate the time it will take to get from place to place. You’ll be walking uphill a lot. A lot. You do not need alot of layers at Jungfraujoch if it’s sunny, not windy and in the 40s. We would have been fine with a sweatshirt, gloves and maybe a hat. Definitely sunscreen and sunglasses. Use the SBB app to find your transportation options. Grocery store prices are reasonable and they sell delicious chocolate.

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The Coop branded chocolate is excellent quality and cheap! Sounds like a very nice trip.

In the eternal Wengen vs Murren vs Lauterbrunnen vs Gimmelwald debate, did you have any regrets about staying in Wengen, or was it satisfactory compared to the other option?

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Hank, I have no regrets about staying in Wengen. The biggest issue with us is that we stayed in a chalet down hill from the train station. Down a pretty steep, 10 minute walk back uphill to town. So once we got back to the chalet, it was a real trudge back into town. Then our owner shared a tip: walk downhill to Wengenwald and take the train UP to Wengen. Game changer. A quick walk downhill (6 minutes) and a 3 minute ride up made it much better.

Wengen has lots of food options, is in a good spot so you can go up and over the mountain to get to Grindelwald, you can easily go down to Lauterbrunnen, the trains run later in the day, plenty of shops to explore, nice hikes right outside the door. The views of the mountains and the valley were stunning. There was a lot in the area that we didn’t see because we were busy exploring other areas.

Lauterbrunnen felt much more crowded and busy with all the cars and buses. Walking on the sidewalks, it was always very crowded. Lots of Instagram photos being taken with costume changes, etc. Not my cup of tea.

Murren would be my second choice, but not while the construction is going on. I relished sitting on my balcony enjoying the views in the morning and afternoon. That peace would be disturbed by the noise. But it has wonderful views and is flat! Definitely more steps to get to with the train to Grutschalp, or bus from Stechelberg then gondolas up. But the connections are easy.

Gimmelwald is just too tiny for us. Very few food options, no grocery. It would take more planning than we prefer. We tend to want to pick up something (drinks, snacks, picnic) at the grocery and that would be a negative for us.

Grindelwald felt more ritzy with a lot more high end shops. Lots more people and tour buses. Fabulous views. Lots to do. Lots of transportation options. That would be my third choice.

If budget were a big concern, I would look at Wilderswil. Closer than Interlaken. Cute little village. Easy transportation connections.

Interlaken was a mob scene, at least when we were getting off the boat and trying to get to the train station. I would NOT stay there, or try to get on the boat there. I would take the train to the next stop and get on the boat there.

Brienz would be a nice option on the lake, vs Interlaken. Cute town, lots of shops and restaurants. Lots of lodging right on the gorgeous lake. The Brienzer Rothorn station right there. 20 minute ride to Interlaken, then another 30-40 to Lauterbrunnen.

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What is being built in Murren?
GREAT trip report. Hope to get there some day.

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There’s construction on the Schilthorn gondola station. Lots of trucks and areas roped off. Work is going to continue until 2024, I believe.

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Glad you had a great time! Your report is good advice that one can never be certain how the weather might change during the day. Way to roll with it!

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I love the Coop stores and even more, the Coop brand chocolate. Once we found one that was dark chocolate with a truffle type filling. So good. Since then, every time I see a Coop, I go look for it!

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Great report on one of my favorite places. 😊

I added Da Sina to my trip notes for next year. I love Italian food and have always eaten at paste & more in wengen. I’m excited to add a new restaurant to my rotation.

Migros also has great store brand chocolate—Frey. I never liked white chocolate until I tried the Frey white chocolate bar.

https://www.migros.ch/en/product/100141100000

There’s construction on the Schilthorn gondola station. Lots of trucks
and areas roped off. Work is going to continue until 2024, I believe.

Construction is planned at least until 2026. Anyone interested can view the timeline and work details here:

https://schilthornbahn20xx.ch/en/Info/Planning_Schedule

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We stayed in Wengen last September. We loved it. Our hotel (Baren) was also downhill from the train station. It was tough going back up into town. We also thought the Made in Switzerland shop was wonderful. I went a little crazy with my shopping. The owner of one of the jewelry stores told us to go uphill to the Protestant church and we found the best photo op of the entire valley. It was stunning. We bought salads, cheese and sausage at the Co-Op. We didn’t have a refrigerator in our room, but it was cold and rainy out side, so we put our food items on our balcony table. (We had fabulous views our first day, but the fog obliterated our mountains for our final 3 days). I would stay in Wengen again. My neighbor is headed there in mid September.

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Thank you travel4fun. What a great trip report!
My husband and I are leaving in 10 days for Switzerland (first visit!) and are so excited. We have an Airbnb reserved for 6 nights in Wengen. I’m still trying to wrap my brain around all of the options for adventure. We have already purchased the HFC and BO Pass. Hoping that will handle our many transports.