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Trip report Venice, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Spello and Rome

Thanks to everyone on this forum who helped me plan our trip.  We had an absolutely wonderful time! 
My husband & I, 66 & 65, took Osprey Porter 46 back packs which worked fantastic!  I only had 3 pairs of pants, 3 long sleeved turtlenecks & 1 sweater but every time we saw people with big suitcases, we were so happy for the decision.  We each did have a cinch sack.  Our packs weighed around 20 pounds. If you decide to do this, leave plenty of time to pack, weigh your pack, take things out, put other things in, weigh again and repeat 10 times!  LOL 

Venice  We had 5 nights in Venice which was perfect for us (jetlag at first). Thank you Lola for recommending Views on Venice!  They were amazing! We took a water taxi (Loved it!) & VOV had someone met us to take us to the apartment and get us orientated.  They were so incredibly helpful and we loved the apartment we stayed in!  We would highly recommend them.  
We walked every where we went for the first 4 days (really saw the charm of Venice) and took Rick Steve's tour down the Grand Canal on the 5th day. We loved the Fondaco Dei Tedeschis Rooftop Terrace.  We did the Secret Itineraries tour at Doge's Palace but was not crazy about the tour.
Restaurant - Al Vecio Marangon - Ossobucco was delicious 

Varenna (Lake Como) We took trains everywhere we went and we thought Italo's trains were much nicer than Trenitalia.  I had read a lot about validating tickets but all of ours were already validated. (Note: We did have to validate the buses in Rome.) I did use both train apps (easy to use) but also had screen shots of our tickets and paper copies because I am a type AAA. I purchased all our train tickets in advance.  I had read about being careful when buying the tickets because of the time zone differences but I just thought in 24 time and no problems.  
So many of you recommended Hotel Albergo Milano.  We stayed in their Casa Rosa Mezzanine apartment and the view was to die for!  We rarely left our terrace and so we never left Varenna!  Our view and the weather were perfect! 

Manarola (Cinque Terre) 
Our Airbnb host did not meet us but just sent us directions.  As google maps does not work there, I would make sure your host meets you. We got lost and that didn't make for the best start with 20 lb. packs!  It would have been helpful to have a little direction and personal contact.

We didn't encounter a lot of crowds as we went out in the morning and evening.  We did feel like the hype is a little overdone

but that might be as we were coming from Lake Como where we had a private, gorgeous view of the lake and mountains.  The steps and climbing are a lot so be prepared for that if you are staying in one of the CT towns.

We loved Cappun Magru in Manarola.  Family owned and the shrimp sandwich was amazing! We also ate at Trattoria Dal Billy
and had a beautiful view.  

Spello
We took 4 trains to get to Spello and it all went well. Thank you Shelly for recommending Spello!  The town is absolutely beautiful and charming. 

We stayed in an Airbnb which is a nunnery and had an amazing rooftop terrace.  Absolutely beautiful!  The Airbnb host was wonderful!  His 84 year old mom made us a delicious meal, one of the best of our trip!  

Rome
So many of you recommended Hotel Smeraldo and we found it to be super clean, updated rooms and a wonderful staff.  The location was great!
Someone recommended Pizza Time by Smeraldo. I think it is the best pizza I've ever had!

We did find an amazing surprise when walking from the Panathon to Trevi fountain, Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola.  It was gorgeous and free. 
We took a Vatican tour but it was so long we didn't get to St. Peter's Bascilia. If you run out of time, I would choose St. Peter's.

Thank you again for all the help planning!

Posted by
426 posts

Fun report! Thank you for taking the time to share and comment on where you stayed and where you ate. Well done. We stayed at Hotel Smeraldo our first time in Europe - loved it too. So glad they are still doing well. Book marking for future reference.

Posted by
1356 posts

Hi Pam, so glad you had such a great trip! We are headed back to Italy in November and haven't been to Venice since 2013. Can you tell me why you didn't like the Secret Itineraries tour at Doge's Palace? It gets pretty good reviews here and I was thinking of booking it.
We also booked our apartment through Views on Venice and I'm looking forward to it even more now given your great feedback.

Posted by
168 posts

Sounds like a great trip! Thank you for sharing. I think I'll always be ready to go back to Italy. The nunnery Airbnb sounds really memorable.

Posted by
13 posts

@ KC, thanks so much for your encouragement. I typed my trip report on word and then when I tried to paste it into the trip report, I realized it was 3 times the given length! I had to cut out all my humor out so you all were spared my bad jokes! LOL

@pbscd-The nunnery was amazing. If you are ever looking for a peaceful, true Italian experience, Spello is the place. (Of course this is our 1st Italian trip so my experience is very limited!)

@Celeste - We weren't crazy about the tour because first of all, my husband and I are not super history buffs. Secondly, the tour took us through a lot of the prison and through where they tortured prisoners and so it was a little too heavy for us. After the tour, I said let's just look at things on this floor before we go down the big staircase. What a mistake! Once we went around the floor, they was not way to go down the big staircase but we had to spend about 20 minutes walking back through the prison again!

Posted by
1 posts

I discovered that it was three times longer than anticipated! I had to remove all my jokes so that you wouldn't have to endure doodle jump my terrible humor!

Thanks, Pam, for such a detailed post! I also plan to visit Lake Como and Cinque Terre. Based on your experience, if you only had 3 days to choose a relaxing resort, would you choose Granny Game Varenna or Manarola?

Posted by
13 posts

benedictwinifred.jade,

We loved Varenna more than Manarola. Varenna was so charming and we were there when it wasn’t very crowded. I felt under pressure in Manarola to get out in the morning because so many people visit these little towns so that didn’t help. Also we loved our accommodations more in Varenna and that makes a big difference for us. We had an amazing view of Lake Como and the mountains whereas in Manarola, we could see some of the water but had a tiny patio and we like to sit outside in the morning for our daily devotions. If we would’ve had a large patio with a great view, maybe we would’ve felt differently. Also, getting lost at the beginning, didn’t help so if you go to,Manarola make sure your host meets you. Let me know if you have any other questions. Hope this helps!