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Trip Report: Two weeks in France: Paris-Lyon-Chamonix

It was a birthday trip for my wife, so we didn’t scrimp. But there is significant discussion on the forum about costs. I have never seen the exchange rate between dollars and euros mentioned. When I started booking the trip the exchange rate was 1.06 dollars to the euro. And our last expenditures cost 1.25 dollars to the euro. Ouch! People have different travel styles so absolute costs will rarely be comparable for different sets of travelers. I tallied costs for the trip in dollars (although some miles were used) and I think the results for the trip (+/- a percent or two in each category) were interesting: TRAVEL ~ 30%; HOTELS ~ 30%; MEALS ~ 15%; ACTIVITIES (tours/passes/bike rentals) ~ 15%; EVERYTHING ELSE ~ LESS THAN 10%. Currency exchange fees and phone roaming fees are included but were insignificant in cost compared to having nice wine with dinner.

We began in Paris seeing the last day of the Tour de France... then a selection of museums of course... and the cleanest building in Europe, Notre Dame. After all, no one cleans a 780-year old Cathedral of candle soot and city grime unless they must. The outside is gorgeous, and the inside is absolutely resplendent. The Rue Cler neighborhood remains a wonderful place to get a comfortable hotel stay with many excellent restaurants. We enjoyed the Hotel Beaugency. To Rick’s restaurant recommendations I would add Le Campanella three blocks northwest on Rue Ste-Dominic, and the seafood restaurant at the La Sablaise fish market on Rue Cler. Our next stop was Lyon where we stayed near Place Bellecour at the Hotel des Celestines and did food, wine, and bicycle tours (all Lyon specialties). Restaurants to add to your “must-visit” list include La Mere Lea/Maison Lea on the Quai des Celestins and Café Le Terroir in the same area on Rue Montcharmont. Then we went on to Chamonix for the Aiguille du Midi of course and the Mer de Glace (now regrettably reduced to the Mer de Roche (rocks) from climate change). The Hotel La Sapiniere was very comfortable with a great balcony and terrace with a view down the valley. The Brevant ski gondola in town ferries Paragliders up in the summer too. It turned out that Paragliders use the open area of the baby ski slopes at the edge of town as their landing zone. Our hotel looked out over those beginner slopes so we could watch it rain paragliders coming into land as we sipped our drinks. An absolute “must-visit” restaurant in Chamonix is on a back street south of downtown across from a construction site that hasn’t moved a brick in eighteen months. Bizes at 64 Rue du Lyret. It had outstanding selections on a riverside site. There are of course buses from Chamonix to the Geneva airport, but there are also several shuttle van services from door to door. This was a bit of a “moving about” itinerary, but it had the advantage of having a non-stop flight from the east coast to Paris, and a nonstop flight back from Geneva. I think she had a wonderful birthday.

Posted by
3162 posts

Sounds great, thanks for sharing. Tell us about a favorite meal in more detail. Lyon, esp.?

Posted by
1012 posts

https://lamaisonlea.fr

We can recommend the Sliced Veal Liver in a balsamic sauce and the 7 hour cooked leg of Lamb that is presented in a a pressed cylindrical stack with "Mac and cheese" (of extraordinary taste) side dish. I wanted to try the Quenelle, but its sauce is made with crawfish - which I can't eat. The Menu Bellecour is can excellent value with starter, main and dessert) but the dishes change daily.

https://www.cafeterroir.fr

The Cafe Terroir comes in two varieties - the "Cave" which is formerly a double garage space and the Restaurant itself. One is around the corner from the other. The menu is the same at both. When we found "La Cave" we had been on a wine and food tour earlier in the day and settled for the three Entrees and a nice pot (50cl) of wine rather than a full meal. On our second visit we had a rotisserie selection - the roast Pistachio Sausage with red wine sauce. If you intend to have a rotisserie meal - skip the starters. And a bottle of nice Beaujolais of course.

Everything we ate in Lyon paired well with a Beaujolais or a Cote du Rhone.

You didn't ask about Chamonix, but:

https://www.bizes.fr

Lamb Shank and Stuffed Portobello Mushroom.

You didn't ask about Paris either but:

https://lecampanella.com

https://la-sablaise.wheree.com

Posted by
16030 posts

Thanks so much for your Trip Report! I've walked by Le Campanella dozens of times but have never stopped in. Good to know you enjoyed your meal there.

"Currency exchange fees and phone roaming fees are included but were insignificant in cost compared to having nice wine with dinner."

This made me laugh! True for me too....yep, I'm just gonna get the dang Verizon international plan because it's easy and overall does not really impact the cost of my trip!

Posted by
603 posts

Nick,

I've bookmarked your thread since I'm taking almost the exact same trip in April (swap out Chamonix with Dijon, but we're taking a day trip up there) and your suggestions are most welcome.

Thanks!

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
3162 posts

thanks for the good info -- in that area of Paris it looks like another option apart from Le Roussillon is Campanella. Will take note.

Posted by
3 posts

Nick, is there a food tour in Lyon that you would recommend? We’re looking for a half-day tour that would end in time to catch a 3:00 train!

Posted by
1012 posts

I have had tours in Lyon through both Viator and Tasty Lyon. All of the guides have been excellent. Vieux Lyon seems to be the most common food tour location. There are so many possibilities though (location of tour, date availability, length of tour, focus of tour) that you will have to browse the selections, pick early and see what is available based on how many people you are, on your timing and on your price point. I wish I had five friends to gather to take a full day Burgundy or Cote du Rhone tour with our own private bus, but alas that has never been one of my choices.