We spent 19 days in Southern Spain: Cordoba, Granada, Malaga, Ronda, Seville and Madrid. We traveled by trains and buses. Pre-purchasing all tickets online before we left to avoid the step at the station: Renfe, Damas and Alsa. We stayed in mid price RS hotels (with the exception of Malaga where we stayed at the AC Palacio Marriott). We visited all the normal places and ate at restaurants recommended in the RS book and from different forums. We traveled October 23 to November 10 and had perfect travel weather: 60’s and 70-’s with one day of wind and rain (Ronda) and LOTS of blue sky and sunshine.
It was a wonderful trip (our 4th trip to Spain). I think Southern Spain is my favorite. I am only going to comment on the exceptional, new or perhaps not so known.
If you are traveling to/from a Renfe train to a Cercanías (Commuter) train you know longer have to get a separate ticket just scan your QR code. We took the Cercanías from Terminal 4 to Atocha. It was faster and a bit easier than we expected. We took a taxi from Sol to the airport on the return for 30E.
Cordoba: The Hotel Hesperia (across the river) rooftop bar at sunset was perfect to see the bridge and city lit up.
Granada: We had an exceptional tour/private guide Alberto from Alhambra Tours (RS book). Great tapas experience at Les Diamontes. We also enjoyed the arab baths and massage at Hammam Al Andalus Granada which we booked prior to the trip for a better rate.
Malaga: We spent two nights which was lovely. My husband thought perhaps his favorite city. We took a sunset cruise with Fly Blue (15E) that I recommend. We had the best meal of our trip at El Tapeo de Cervantes. The tuna literally melted in your mouth. We had delicious tapas at Casa Lola. Two in our group experienced the Caminto del Rey which they enjoyed.
Ronda: I reluctantly paid the 9 E for the bull ring and found it fascinating. The museum far exceeded our expectations and looked recently updated. The Ronda guitar concert also far exceeded our expectations. A master guitarist and performer.
Seville: The one hour flamenco show at La Casa del Flamenco was excellent and in a lovely courtyard. We went to La Carboneria Bar the night before but it felt like a cross between a German beer garden and a frat party (our group was 68. 62, 40, 38, & 36 though). At the Alcazar the audio guide (download from QR) is no longer free but 7E. We just followed the RS tour which was challenging with the signage and perhaps should have purchased the audio guide.
We had two nights in Madrid (we spent time previously) one of which was May 9th which made for a quite a parade of the Virgin of Almudena through town to the cathedral and all of its celebrations. But it was also madness on the streets with the crowds (holiday for Madrid).
Posted by
Cleveland
160 posts
Great report! Thank you for sharing.
Posted by
Idaho, USA
7294 posts
Thank you, Renee, for sharing your trip report! We will be back in southern Spain & Madrid early next year. Rondo isn’t on our itinerary but glad to hear the wonderful guitar concert is still available at Paco Seco’s guitar shop!
Posted by
United States
68 posts
We had a very similar itinerary for our trip Oct 15 - Nov 2, but unfortunately our weather was not as good as yours -- we had several overcast and rainy days, which probably affected how we felt about Seville.
In Cordoba, we stayed in an apartment in the building right next to Hotel Hesperia, and we LOVED the location. We had views of Cordoba from our main bedroom and a small terrace off the living room and never tired of the view. It was such an easy walk across the bridge, too, and we got to see lots of birds.
We loved Malaga also, which was a nice surprise. Stayed 3 nights, as we were flying home from there early on our last day, with a connection in Madrid. Charming city, and we opted to stay in an apartment across from Malagueta beach, which ended up being a great location.
Posted by
OP
Tacoma, WA, USA
519 posts
Milgreen2– Thank you for your report.
We are thinking of going back to Malaga and spending a month (2025) while we avoid our Washington grey, rainy winters. Would you be willing to share your apartment information?