Trip Report The Austro-Hungarian Empire, Advent season

We were booked at the Medos Hotel, very near the Oktagon/Andrassy Ave. It’s not a fancy place, but rather “respectable”, in a great location. We had booked one of the top-floor suites and it was perfect. We had a huge balcony, and I immediately spotted the Parliament in its illuminated state, and the dome of St Stephen’s Basilica. Other comforts included a ton of windows (corner location), a giant soaker tub, and a rudimentary kitchen with fridge, microwave, bar sink and dishes. We dropped our bags and headed out for some food. We had Menza restaurant on our list, and the front desk also recommended it—and it is literally across the street from Medos. It was a great start. Busy on an early Saturday evening, but we started at the bar with cocktails, then got a table before we had time to order bar nibbles. I love a spot that has locals, and this place had probably a majority speaking Hungarian, with enough English that our already-confused brains weren’t further taxed. Great Hungarian staples (goulash and salad to start, and I had a lovely duck breast, Ron a great schnitzel), nice service, absolutely perfect for us. We were back in our comfy room, asleep, by about 8:30.

Sunday morning we took it easy on ourselves. We wandered out in time for lunch, another delicious bowl of goulash and other good things at Ket Szerecsen, then we mostly wandered. I have been to Budapest but Ron had not and I wanted to show him how beautiful this city is. So we wandered. And Budapest was her beautiful self. Also, side note, now that we were awake and not so stupid, we quickly got used to the excellent public transit system in Budapest. Ron qualified for the free access for seniors and I bought a pass on my phone. We went through checks only a couple of times at subway stations, where I showed my pass on my phone, and I waved in Ron’s direction and said “65”!

By early evening, we were on our way to meet up with Mr. É for a drink at Tadarka, a wine bar he favoured. Mr. É had been super helpful with all my many questions in the Hungary forum, and we wanted to buy him a drink to say thank you. We planned to part company and find ourselves dinner afterward. Well, sometimes conversation (and wine) flow, and we came pretty close to closing the place. Thank goodness they offered a small menu of food! The excellent sommelier kept bringing us great wines, and we kept drinking them. Thank you again Mr É for a great evening!

For some reason on Monday morning we were not super energetic. ; ) We again wandered, had a look at the ruin bars, took a tour at the Doheny Synagogue, and discreetly admired all the local dogs in their winter gear. (Weather was dry and cold, very nice for late November, but All The Dogs Wear Coats. Canadian dogs don’t need coats for that kind of temp! But there were dogs in coats everywhere we went, Hungary, Italy, Austria, Germany.) We found the Danube and the Christmas market at Vorosmarty Square and got our first gluhwein. The market was pretty, but for vibe no one holds a candle to Bavarian markets in my opinion, and honestly, we weren’t there for the Christmas market. We had a lovely stop at Gerbeault Café (where cake and coffee was more than any meal we had in Budapest, but absolutely worth it), and then took a river cruise. Beautiful Budapest lived up to its reputation again.

Tuesday morning we went to the Szechenyi baths, around 9 am. It was an absolute highlight. I expected to hate it, and feel self-conscious, and cold, and otherwise uncomfortable. It was so relaxing and pleasant. We played in the not-so-lazy river pool, then found our bliss in the big outdoor relaxing pool. It was 6c outside and the water was wonderful. The inside was “faded glory” elegant, with lots of tile and dark wood changing cabins. We spent some time in the indoor pools too, but the outdoor pools were best. There were lots of tourists, including the Instagram crowd with their phones in waterproof neck-bags, recording the moment, but also lots of locals, and it was a pleasure to join their contentedness. I never considered visiting thermal baths before but now I get it, and will take any opportunities that present themselves in future.

After that on Tuesday and Wednesday, we ate good food, drank good coffee, with little more of note. Found some very fresh and yummy langos where we were the only English speakers. Spent a lovely hour introducing Ron to some co-workers whom I hadn’t seen since 2018. Saw the Basilica Christmas market. Coffee and cake at the Central Café. Ogled gorgeous buildings. Enjoyed the terrace of our hotel room with good wine. Took the #2 tram and wandered around the Parliament, and along the Danube at sunset.

There were lots of things on our list we didn’t do. But we loved our time in Budapest, and we left reluctantly, but relaxed and happy.

I’ve always loved train travel, even when it’s exceedingly prosaic (which it generally is, if you don’t do the super luxury trains, which we don’t). When we were cobbling the trip together, we decided to connect Budapest with the rest of the trip with a night train. It’s not fancy, it’s not new, but we were excited to book a sleeper from Budapest to Munich. Because we had the sleeper we started our Wednesday evening journey in the business lounge at Keleti Station, which was peaceful and not overwhelming as train stations can be. We boarded our car around 6 pm and were rolling by 7. Our sleeper had a weird little sink, but the bathroom was down the hall. The beds were made when we got there and we had a lot of laughs figuring out how to be comfortable, stow our luggage, yet still access toothbrushes and night clothes and the like in the tiny cabin. We turned in early as breakfast was coming at 5 am prior to a 6 am arrival in Munich.

We got about as much sleep as you would in economy on a transatlantic redeye, albeit with more privacy and a “lay flat” space. I really like the feeling of the swaying when the train is rolling and was thinking it would lull me to sleep. Unfortunately the train was stopped as much as it was going, and every time we arrived at or left a station or siding, the change woke me. But hey, I didn’t miss much of the “experience”! I woke around 4:30 and gave up, as our breakfast was scheduled for 5. I was paranoid we wouldn’t be ready to bound off the train in the short Munich station-stop. (I believe the train terminated in Stuttgart, so it had a way to go after our stop.) Breakfast was a portable affair, some coffee in paper cups, a couple of slices of white bread with some salami and cheese, and some juice. Then we hauled the bags out of the ceiling-level racks and waited for Munich.

That’s enough for one read, and if you got this far, congrats! I’ll return with our next leg, our first visit to Italy, as soon as I get a chance to chronicle it.

Lovely trip report, JoAnne! I'm planning to visit Budapest in the fall of this year, so it was great timing! And how nice that you got to meet up with Mr. E! I'm looking forward to the rest of it!

JoAnne, I am absolutely loving your trip report. It's great that you were able to share Budapest with your husband.

Good for you taking the night train !

Can't wait to read the rest.

Great report - Keep going!

But we loved our time in Budapest, and we left reluctantly, but
relaxed and happy.

That is how you should leave.

Your sleeper train experience. I took one back in 1980-something but not since and have few memories of that one. Then last week I had to ride two sleepers. I gotta tell you, it was an experience ... one that I many have to repeat .... but only if there is no other option. But it was fun from the point of view of novelty.

G-d bless and keep you safe. See you on your return.

JD

A wonderful adventure so far! I am glad you were able to squeeze Budapest in with this trip, after all your planning earlier!