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Trip Report: Solo travel to BiH and Croatia May 2025

I just returned from a 11 day trip, traveling as a solo female to Sarajevo and Mostar (Bosnia & Herzegovina); as well as Hvar and Dubrovnik, Croatia. Overall, the trip went off without any major issues. First off, I personally felt safe 100% of the time thought the trip. After years traveling in Latin America for years where I've been harassed on the streets by men, I was shocked and relieved that I experienced zero issues in this realm on my trip.

  • Sarajevo (3 nights): stayed near Baščaršija. Absolutely loved it, fav part of the entire trip. I could have spent a week based here, seeing more of the city and day trips to nearby areas. The multiculturalism to experience, museums, market were fantastic.

  • Mostar (1 night). I did a tour with Funky Tours from Sarajevo to Mostar, visiting Konjic, Jablanica, Počitelj, Blagaj, and Kravice Waterfalls. I stayed in Mostar rather than returning at the end of the day to Sarajevo. I liked the tour for the most part- it was a rushed itinerary - I could have spent a half day at Počitelj and Blagaj, but at the same time, was not prepared to rent a car myself and visit on my own, so this tour was a great option. 1 night was not enough to see Mostar. I feel like I only saw the main tourist area near the bridge. Stayed closeby to the bridge, which was convenient. My general impression staying for a short time was that Mostar is overly touristy (compared to Sarajevo) with folks coming for the day from Croatia wanting to "experience" Bosnia...

  • Hvar (3 nights). I took the bus from Mostar to Split, then hopped a quick ferry to Hvar. I chose Hvar because it is easier to get to in a travel day in transit between countries, and stayed in Hvar Town for the amenities as a solo traveler. I chose a Rick Steves recommended apartment/sobe with a fantastic host and great spot about 10 min walk from the old town. Overall, the nearby beaches and nature were incredible, and very relaxing. It was a planned respite during my trip after more intense site seeing in BiH. However, it was also culture shock to be in what felt like the White Lotus show with elaborate destination weddings for American fraternity guys or British citizens. But the swimming was incredible, and so enjoyable!

  • Dubrovnik (3 nights). Took the ferry which was seamless. Loved it! So much more enjoyable than taking the bus (I got extremely carsick on the bus from Mostar to Split :( ). The city buses in Dubrovnik were easy to navigate from the Gruz port and a plus for buying the Dubrovnik pass (as local buses are included). I chose a guesthouse inside the old city walls for the location-a single room with shared bathroom (since prices are high). Boy, what it a letdown from the accommodations I had in the private apartment/sobe in Hvar. It took some adjustment for sure. But...the location was unbeatable. Overall, through, I found Dubrovnik old town to be way too touristy. I didn't feel like I needed to be in the middle of it all, as the restaurants were all geared towards couples/groups for gourmet eating- that didn't work or appeal to me as a solo traveler on a relative budget. After a half day or seeing the old city and walking the walls (which was awesome), I branched out and went to more relaxed places during the two full days I was there- 1 day I went to Lokrum Island and the other day I went to Kolocep island. I was interested in swimming, experiencing nature and seeing sites on the islands. Both islands were perfect for it, with minimal travel time on the ferries. I debated doing a day tour to Bay of Kotor, but decided against it, as I didn't want to be stuck with a large group tour and minimal time to stop at each site, with traffic. Leaving, I took the private airport shuttle for a great deal (10 euro), which I highly recommend over a taxi (can be up to 70 euro).

Posted by
2830 posts

Thanks for sharing, and I'm chuckling at the White Lotus vibe.

Posted by
5358 posts

What a great trip - and observations I totally agree with! I have been to Sarajevo twice now (once for a week and once for 5 nights). I love the feel of it. And yes - Mostar is such a great place for more than a day trip (or even just one night). I haven’t made it to Konjic but it looks really nice - and definitely an afternoon for Blagaj! Hvar and Dubrovnik? With you 100%.

Posted by
17 posts

Thanks, all! Your comments are validating! I appreciated posting on RS also as I was shaping my plan.

Posted by
1505 posts

Enjoyed the report. I'll get to enjoy Sarajevo for the month of July. Safe Travels.

Posted by
32 posts

I think Sarajevo is one of the most underrated destinations in Europe. I love it and have been three times! Hey Rick Steves team, it deserves more extended treatment than it gets in the Croatia/Slovenia guide. A major omission is that it doesn't cover any restaurants outside the Baščaršija area, and there are some great ones. I love Mala Kuhinja. Thank you for your trip report!

Posted by
3117 posts

I enjoyed your report. I was in Sarajevo and Dubrovnik when it was still Yugoslavia. Sarajevo was first time I ever saw a mosque. I still have a silver tea pot I bought at market there and paid too much for according to my Turkish colleague. He said there is a 25% off sale every day! I just paid what the vender asked. Dubrovnik had hardly any tourists. We stayed in someone’s house in the walled city. We walked around the wall by ourselves.

I don’t think I could bear to go back to Dubrovnik now.

Posted by
17 posts

@Angie1010!!! Right on, I agree 110% with what you said! I'm not even a "city person" and I absolutely loved Sarajevo. Next time I'd base my trip staying there and doing day trips. Nothing else compared to it after proceeding with the rest of my trip, after venturing into Croatia. And yes, RS should do more with tailoring information for people's trips being based there. Same to @TexasTravelMom. And @BethFL, it's interesting to hear your experience! Cheers, everyone!

Posted by
13 posts

I appreciate the notes about the swimming! I try to swim as much as I can (or at least as much as my husband will tolerate) on a trip. We tend to go off peak, so I finally invested in a thermal jacket :) I will keep this area in mind for future trip!

Posted by
1182 posts

Great report! So glad to see everything went well! You had a great plan and I’m so happy to see it paid off for you. I’m off to Sarajevo next week and extra can’t wait after hearing you sing its praises!

Posted by
4240 posts

Thanks for the excellent trip report. I much enjoy BiH when I visited there 2 years ago. I have a plan for an extended stay in the country on my hard drive. I'm looking forward to pulling the trigger on doing it in the next few years.