Trip Report Siracusa (Ortigia), Sicily - June 2023 - Part 4
DOING
Duomo di Siracusa (Cathedral of Siracusa)
The stunning Duomo di Siracusa was originally a Greek doric temple dating back to the 5th century BC. Some of the original columns (which can be seen outside and inside) were incorporated into the walls when the Duomo was rebuilt and, for this reason, it is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. The building was converted into a mosque in 878, then converted back when Norman Roger I of Sicily retook the city in 1085. Do visit this beautiful, serene, and historically important place.
Entrance costs €4 per person.
The Burial of Saint Lucia by Caravaggio (map)
In the Basilica Santuario Santa Lucia al Sepolcro there is a painting by Caravaggio that is more than worth the 20-minute walk from Ortigia Island.
Santa Lucia (Saint Lucy) is the patron saint Siracusa. Legend has that Lucy came from a wealthy Sicilian family. Spurning marriage and worldly goods, however, she vowed to remain a virgin. An angry suitor reported her to the local Roman authorities, who sentenced her to be removed to a brothel and forced into prostitution. This order was thwarted, according to legend, by divine intervention; Lucy became immovable and could not be carried away. She was then condemned to death by fire, but she proved impervious to the flames. Finally, her neck was pierced by a sword and she died in 304 AD.
Caravaggio had escaped from prison on Malta in 1608, fleeing to Siracusa. There he got a commission to paint this altar piece to honour Santa Lucia.
There is no fee to enter but don't be confused by the ticket office which is only for those who want to see the catacombs, never worth it in my opinion. However, I do suggest making the €1 donation to illuminate Caravaggio's painting for four minutes!
Archimedes & Leonardo da Vinci Museum
Eureka!! This little private museum is a very nice place to spend an hour or two, especially to escape from the midday sun.
Archimedes is without doubt the most famous son of Siracusa and, of course, considered the greatest mathematician of ancient history, and one of the greatest of all time.
In this museum his discoveries, insights, and inventions (and those of his admirer Leonardo da Vinci) are bought to life with interactive models and tactile exhibits. He was a busy man... you will learn a lot.
Tickets cost €7
City of Noto
The city of Noto is a 40 minute drive from Siracusa. It is a beautiful baroque town (UNESCO listed) and a lasting reminder of Spain's impact on the history, culture, and architecture of Sicily. If you have the time, I highly recommend that you spend a few hours, the vision, passion, and commitment to build this city is awe inspiring.
Renting a car in Siracusa costs about €80 - €100 per day.
A quick recap on parking in Italy. First thing is to look at the colour of the lines on the road:
o White lines - parking is free
o Blue lines - you need to pay for parking and there will be a meter near by
o Yellow lines - you need a permit to park, so don't!
City of Modica
The city of Modica is a 60 minute drive from Siracusa and can be nicely combined with a trip to Noto. Modica is also a beautiful and important historic town and, like Noto, rebuilt by the Spanish following the devastating earthquake of 1693. I was not able to spend spend much time here but did visit the stunning Duomo di San Giorgio in Upper Modica.
One thing you must do, however, is buy some of the famous chocolate of this city which is still produced with an ancient and original Aztec recipe. It's extraordinarily bitter and quite unlike any chocolate I have tried before. Can't say that I really liked it - much more of a milk chocolate person myself :)
The famous Sabadi chocolate shop is just next to the Duomo di San Giorgio.