Trip Report: Seymour Travels Orkney and Shetland plus Edinburgh

The tours are also quite active. I felt Orkney had more uphill climbing and it certainly had crawling to enter the Cuween Chambered Cairn. (Not everyone did the crawl into the cairn.) Shetland was still very active but in a different way. Both tours have you going from 830-9A to about 5P with an occasional evening meal provided by the tour. I’m pretty sedentary at home and managed (barely on the Rousay day, lol) but to get the most enjoyment from his tours you would want to be fairly fit for a traveler. Sometimes climbing in/out of the back seat of the van was the challenge, hahaha! We also go no matter what the weather so everyone was prepared for wet and chilly although not all of us were prepared for “heat” and sunshine, hahaha! Mark was pretty successful at being able to dodge the big bus tours from the cruise ships visiting both Kirkwall and Lerwick.

Mark is a natural storyteller which makes it much easier for me to remember things! Here is an example of his storytelling from his FB page:
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/16tjPk5x8v/

Edinburgh days on my own: I arrived 3 days before my flight to Orkney. I spent the 2 full days doing the Museum of Scotland to see the Neolithic and early Scottish galleries, the Scottish Museum of Art and Holyrood House. I enjoyed the gardens and sat next to Paddington Bear and his marmalade sandwich. I allowed 2 nights at the end back in Edinburgh to allow flex time if there were hiccups in the return flight from Shetland. I honestly did not do much on my full day. I planned to go to the Botanic Gardens but it was rainy so I just walked to Waterstone’s bookstore and tried to stay out of the masses of folks on the sidewalks.

Orkney days on my own: I spent 4 nights in Kirkwall ahead of the tour. I did a private wildlife tour with Raymond Besant, Orkney Nature. He is a wildlife photographer but also does general wildlife tours. The day I booked for this was pretty awful, weather-wise lol. Sustained wind of 37mph with gusts of 47-52! Needless to say we did not see much for bird life as they were all hunkered down! We hiked out to see nesting Fulmers and Kittiwakes. Raymond is an excellent general naturalist as well and talked about the flowers we encountered. Because it was a warm, sunny spring many flowers had already bloomed but he found us a few orchids along with others. He was very easy to spend the day with and quite enjoyable in spite of the weather. I recommend the movie The Outrun with Saoirse Ronan which was filmed on Orkney. Raymond was the underwater cinematographer for it! I also spent time at the Orkney Museum which is quite good as well as time at the Saint Magnus Cathedral. I did a graveyard tour with a cathedral docent one afternoon which was interesting. After I moved out to The Sands on Burray I went to the Fossil and Heritage Center which was also an interesting eclectic mix. Excellent cafe there with surprisingly elevated food!

Continued...

Orkney: Oh WOW! To both a return to Orkney AND a second Seymour Travels tour here. I was here in 2023 with Mark’s tour and loved every second. I felt I wanted to come back while I was still agile enough to crawl on hands and knees into chambered cairns (igloo like structures that might or might not have been used for burials but were not necessarily purpose built burial tombs). Mark’s level of knowledge is both deep and varied. He is really exceptional with Neolithic age sites and “just merely” excellent on everything else, hahaha! I am like a sponge around him and am always eager to listen to his storytelling. He excels at putting what you are seeing into context both with the wider world at the time and geographically. Yes! to seeing 2 locations where standing stones in the Ring of Brodgar came from! You can see how the Devonian rock layer is tilted in both areas making it possible to split off a large chunk appropriate rock for a monolith but the mind boggles at how they transported them the 30 miles (less by sea) in ~2250 BC. And yes, we had time alone to ponder these things!

We saw the main areas in the Neolithic landscape including Skara Brae, Ring of Brodgar, Stones of Stenness, Barnhouse Settlement and Maeshowe chambered cairn. It was wet and muddy but I crawled into Cuween Hill Chambered Cairn this time and it was outstanding. New this time was a day trip on the ferry to the Isle of Rousay to see the Neolithic and Iron Age archaeological sites there. This was our worst weather day so we only got to 4 of the sites before we were all pretty wet and chilly and Mark and Paul headed back to the ferry. New also was a walk out towards Hoxa Head on South Ronaldsay to see the WWII fortifications that defended the entrance to Scapa Flow which housed the Royal Navy in WWII. We also walked the cliffs at Yesnaby and walked the tidal causeway over to the Brough of Birsay to see the Viking and earlier ruins along with Puffins! Saw the Iron Age Broch of Gurness and it was fun to look across the Eynhallow Sound to Rousay to see the Midhowe Broch area from the other day. Our hotel, The Sands, is located on the isle of Burray so we drove across the Churchill Barriers daily. We also visited the Italian Chapel, built by Italian POWs in WWII with stunning trompe l’oeil on the walls and ceiling. Oh yes, visited Scapa whisky distillery for a tour and tasting.

Shetland days on my own: We had 3 “days off” in between the 2 tours. I opted to go up to Shetland on the tour end day while the rest of the continuing travelers spent more time on Orkney. I spent a lot of time at the Shetland Museum and walked out to The Knab past “Jimmy Perez’ house”, hahaha. I also just enjoyed not doing much to give myself a rest from go, go, go before my next tour.

Shetland: My word….so excellent! We did so much, saw so much and learned a lot! Toured the Shetland Museum with a guide, walked the Cliffs of Eshaness, saw Dore Holm (a rock arch that looks like a horse drinking water), Drove up to the island of Unst (Iron age, Vikings, Medieval), Jarlshof (Neolithic, Iron age, early Scots, Viking, Medieval and 17th century layers unearthed by archeologists on the same site), St Ninian’s Isle, did a boat trip to see seabirds and seals, did a boat trip across to see Mousa Broch (tallest complete Iron Age broch in the world built about 300BC), had a picnic lunch on the side of another Iron Age Broch (Clickamin in the middle of Lerwick), visited the Croft house museum, visited the textile museum, the Scalloway Museum for the Shetland Bus exhibition AND saw the adorable Puffins up close on Sumburgh Head. Sumburgh Head was our last day and it was so foggy most of the flights in/out of the airport were cancelled. I tried not to be anxious about our flights the next day but we watched the fog lift while we were eating our farewell dinner and it stayed lifted for Friday. This unpredictable weather, after DAYS of sunshine, is why you need to plan some flex time before and after visits to Shetland and Orkney.

General Packing: Outbound I carried on my Osprey Ozone 21” suitcase, had an old LIteGear day pack for my personal item and a very small cross body bag. On the way back I made an executive decision while waiting for the Edinburgh check-in desks to open to check my suitcase on the way back home. I had been worried about making my Spokane flight coming back in thru Seattle if I had to wait for my bag but some flight times had shifted and I had nearly 2 hours transit time so thought I’d risk it. I was not in Delta One but was in Economy Comfort, have Global Entry and made it with lots of time to spare. I also packed my regular Baggallini purse to use in Edinburgh and on my independent days in Kirkwall and Lerwick. That was a good decision as I used it quite a bit.

I had too many hard sided things in my day pack for the flight over. I need to go for more squish. For some reason I felt I needed a small kit of art supplies, went back to a small travelon cube for my tech cords/chargers/adapter plug, had a bento box of snacks plus my binoculars in a hard case. The bento box was a disposable Glad one. (And yes, I threw away my remaining carrot and celery sticks on the plane so no raw veggies into a foreign country!) I did wind up chucking the Bento box at the end of my Orkney travels. I “thought” I might get salad on days we had picnic lunches but that just wasn’t practical.

Timeshifter. It worked pretty well this time. My other trips have been with the international leg from either Seattle or SLC so I have a longer flight to Europe. This time I was routed thru ATL so had a 4-hr flight Spokane to ATL, a 3 hour layover and then a 7 hr flight to Edinburgh. The plan said I was supposed to sleep some on each flight which I tried to do but only got about 3 hours on the longer flight. I did wind up napping in the afternoon of arrival day in Scotland. Some of that sleepiness COULD have been due to having a huge Afternoon tea after my noon-ish arrival, lolol. I did fine the day after arrival so I guess it worked. Or perhaps the strategy is to have a ginormous Afternoon Tea about 3P on arrival day which sets you up for a circadian adjustment, haha! Coming back home…well, I traveled yesterday and feel fine today even though I did not get more than about 3 hours on the plane back from Amsterdam to Seattle. I was not tired at all last night and managed to stay awake to 930 or so (regular bed time) after a 630 PM arrival back to Spokane. All seems OK today.

Silicone ziplock bags: Somehow I got seduced by various travel bloggers and purchased small pill-sized ones as well as snack and quart sized ones. These were not workable for me. I started with the small pill sized ones to replace the small ziplocks from Michaels I’ve used for years. They tend to eventually wear out at the bottom so I thought the silicone ones with the slider closure would be better. Well, so far the sliders have all slid off and then I couldn’t get them to open after I put the sliders back on. Pried them open, then the sliders worked but they are a pain. I’m going back to the Michaels tiny ziplocks reinforced with tape across the bottom. The regular and freezer ziplocks have a lot more “give” and are lighter weight so returning to those too.

Capsule wardrobe items: I took my basic 4 short sleeve tees (hot pink, cobalt, black, white) and 1 long sleeve (well, ¾ sleeve) tee (navy/white stripe). I could have used another Long sleeve tee and 1 less short sleeve tee for Orkney but I was going thru short sleeve shirts in Shetland like nobody’s business. . I had my 2 long sleeve dri-fit quarter-zip shirts (black and gray) to layer and also had a long sleeve denim shirt which I wore on the planes (medium blue). I had 2 pr jeans (medium denim color and gray) and a pr of 32 Degree brand knit pants (black) which I wore a lot for breakfast and dinners and also had to wear them as a lighter weight option during the heat. I took 2 pr of Altra brand athletic shoes - 1 waterproof, one not. 1 pr flip flops which I wore to breakfast and any time I ate dinner in the hotel.

Outerwear: Columbia Arcadia jacket, Columbia Omnitech rain pants which ARE waterproof, a 32 Degree brand puffy vest, an Outdoor Research waterproof ball cap, a knit beanie, Smartwool glove liners. With Mark’s trips you go, go, go regardless of weather. Of course you could opt out but I have terrible FOMO (fear of missing out!) on his tours so I want to be ready for anything. This range of items allowed me to do just that! I also had sunsleeves which I wore a lot on Shetland.

Clothing Use: Yes, I wore everything in my bag. The big failure was my Columbia Arcadia waterproof jacket with “Omnitech” fabric. It wasn’t. I’d worn it in France last Fall and clearly never encountered the steady downpours of Orkney. While I was not actually wet, I did get very damp. It did block wind pretty well. It’s also a light blue so was very stained after crawling thru mud to get into one specific chambered cairn. A friend who is expert in technical clothing explained why it was not really waterproof so I will have her suggestions onboard when I buy a new jacket! I wound up leaving this in Edinburgh. I am not one to leave my cast-offs in foreign climes, but I just could not see bringing this back home. I checked with the hotel and yes, they would donate to charity if noone on the staff wanted it. BTW, tried to get the dirt stains out with hotel body wash and they did not budge.

What I needed: A dang sun hat! I left it out because I thought surely not! Not needed on Orkney. For sure needed on Shetland! Also needed at least 1 pair of capris. It was too hot for jeans! I wound up wearing my “go to dinner in the hotel or just lounge around after a long day” pants a few touring days because they are lightweight. They are the 32 Degree brand knit pants.

Weather: Most days on Orkney were 53F to start, with a feels like of 43-47F depending on the wind. I’m fairly cold hardy but even I needed my puffy vest under the rain jacket most days. I did wear the rain pants a couple of days and always had them in my day pack. I needed my Smartwool glove liners a couple of days, including the day I decided to have ice cream and sit on a bench outside the cathedral in Kirkwall, (insert eyeroll here!). I had an Eagle Creek compression cube that fits standing up in my day pack so I had all my layers and extra clothing with me every day in the van.

Shetland weather was a shock. We hit record high temperatures and sunshine. It was up to 68 some days with bright sun. I seriously thought I’d roast, lol. I did not pack for sun, bright skies and “heat”. I packed for the weather I encountered on my 2023 trip to Shetland which was the same weather I experienced on Orkney this trip - wind, rain, clouds.

Hotels:
Edinburgh - Ibis St Andrews Square. Mardee steered me to this hotel and I liked it a lot. I loved the location, it was very quiet but there were excellent restaurants right on the square. Room was very small even by European standards. Breakfast buffet was very nice including some hot dishes like scrambled eggs, porridge, bacon and other “meats” (haggis? blood sausage? Not sure and did not inquire, hahaha!). Staff was very nice and helpful! I would stay here again. Book on the Accor app. I had booked a room here online and knew it was a refundable rate. When I started looking at my CC charges a few days later I saw a charge for 399GBP for "fees" AND an immediate charge for the entire stay. I contacted the hotel and they said "it's from your travel agent". Uh, no, no travel agent. I had inadvertently gotten onto a 3rd party hotel booking site instead of the Accor site. I cancelled, all money refunded immediately (well, within 24 hours) including the "fees". I let things rest for a few days and then rebooked via the app on my phone with no problem. I'm usually very careful when booking so am not sure how I got on the 3rd party booking site but at least I was able to undo it without any financial loss to me.

Kirkwall - I stayed my pre-tour days at the Ayre Hotel and booked a harbor view room. This is an older hotel, huge rooms. The harbor view also had a view of the main street alongside the harbor so there was a good bit of street noise until later at night. I did become familiar with a guy driving a bright blue car that needed a muffler who seemed to drag up and down the street a lot…in the US I would think he was a 16-year-old looking for girls but here I suppose he was 20, hahaha. This hotel was convenient to everything in Kirkwall and it was here I drank my first rhubarb gin which was delicious! Morning buffet was pretty boring but I would stay here again. There are not a lot of choices in Kirkwall for hotels!

Burray - The tour hotel was The Sands on the island of Burray (connected to the mainland by the Churchill Barriers). I stayed here in 2023 and went out a day early. This is a wonderful hotel with a very good restaurant. You would want a car if you stay here. There is bus service hourly but it can be a long wait. It’s right on an arm of the Scapa Flow so all rooms have a waterview. The rooms are huge, the food portions are huge, the welcome is huge!

Lerwick - On my own before the tour start I stayed at Varis House, a small hotel. It was inexpensive and was fine. Room was small but comfortable. Breakfast was basic, packaged oatmeal, instant coffee, fresh fruit salad in the fridge along with cheese and cold cuts, home made banana bread and blueberry muffins both of which were delicious. The location was good. There is not much choice in Lerwick.

Scalloway - The tour hotel was The Scalloway Hotel in Scalloway (just across the narrow peninsula from Lerwick. The room was very nice, hotel pub was filled with interesting characters and was definitely a local hang out. Food was pretty good in the restaurant. My room faced the street (and harbor) and overlooked the outside picnic tables for the pub and the public picnic space across the street. I thought it was going to be loud but at 10P the noise stopped and everyone went home, lol.

Edinburgh - Stay at the end of the trip was at Parliament House Hotel. I think this is a hotel RS tours sometimes use but it is probably more expensive than the regular ones. This is an elegant older hotel and just lovely BUT BUT BUT....the elevator was out and I was on the 3rd floor (British numbering so their 1 is our 2, etc) and had 73 steps to get to my room. The reception person carried my bag up but I brought it back down at my departure. Staff here were also very nice and helpful. I only ate breakfast once. The continental array was much smaller than the Ibis. I opted for a cooked breakfast which was delicious especially since I'm not a breakfast eater nor am I usually an egg/salmon eater, lol. My room faced Waterloo Place and was fairly noisy from the outdoor tables at Howies Restaurant which I was right over plus the bus stops across the street which sometimes had folks playing loud music. It also had a lot of foot traffic after the pubs closed so quite a bit of drunken yelling and singing. The room was enormous, bed was great. There is no AC so I had the windows open as far as allowed (about 5 inches?) but it was not a lot of air circulation. I noticed when going in and out when the housekeepers were busy that there were lots of small fans out in the halls. I was not ever hot enough to need one but they were apparently available. I suspect it would have cut down on the noise if I'd been able to close the windows.

Random bits:

Had to stow the tiny cross body bag I always wear on the plane when boarding in Spokane. 1st time ever! It is about 7”x5” and it’s just big enough to hold my passport, my phone and my change purse with my money and cards. I like them on my body on the airplane, especially the overnight portion, since I’m a solo traveler. It was under my denim layer shirt so had to take that off at the boarding gate and stow the small purse. Plenty of room in my day pack so not a problem, just shocked. I was doing carry on so had my Osprey 21” and a day pack in addition to the tiny cross body. I am not a person who thinks she is entitled but this was a surprise.

I didn’t know they make Delta colored Duct tape which was apparently holding my monitor in place during my Spokane to ATL flight.

Chatty people: I have encountered more chatty people on this trip than I think I ever have. Not sure if it’s Scots in general or Orcadians/Shetlanders specifically but they all want to talk! In my first Edinburgh hotel the night desk guy stood at the door with me while I waited for a taxi and told me stories about working overnight in a hotel. Even on the bus from the main Shetland airport to town 3 people chatted me up and the bus was not crowded! At breakfast the first morning in Shetland the other B&B guests were quite talkative! Really, it was quite fun!

In conclusion..I had so much fun! Mark’s tours are worth every penny to me. I have superb guides, excellent traveling companions, itineraries that see the big sites plus a lot of out of the way sights, as well as experiences with locals. I am so happy it will be weeks before the smile can be wiped off my face, hahaha!

Ask me questions!

this sounds like a great trip! i have only done a short trip to Orkney with Rabbies. Your tour guide Mark sounds fantastic! I would also like to go to Shetland too. Fan of the show and love neolithic sights.
Sounds like a good plan to split up the tours by island what with the changeable weather/issues with flights. Amazing that the weather was so different on Shetland vs. Orkney - i would have thought it would be warmer on Orkney since its farther south.
your description of the trip is really making me want to book something. Thanks for sharing!

Pam, I’m so glad to see your trip report and loved all of your details & stories! Let’s meet for a cup of coffee soon, so I can see that “travel smile”! : )

Welcome home Pam and so glad you had a great time. Excellent trip report as always.

You know I love a good long trip report, thanks for sharing Pam! Sounds like a wonderful trip, despite the "heat" (as you know PNW people wear sandals and shorts when it cracks 65...warm!). Sorry your jacket didn't work out, that's a bummer. Hopefully your jet lag continues to be minimal.

@ Annemargaret - thank you for the kind comment! Mark's tours are made for me, lol!!

@Jean - Yes! Give me a few days to make sure I haven't picked anything up. I'll text you!

@Leslie - Thanks, good to be home! You won't be able to shut me up at the meet up!

@CL - Hahaha. I'm not sure why 68 felt so dang hot. Maybe the humidity??

AND....I forgot. I was SHOCKED in the Edinburgh Airport that there were signs saying containers of up to 2 LITERS of liquid are allowed. Here's the quote from their website:

"When it comes to liquids, you're not limited to just one bottle - you can bring multiple containers of up to 2 litres."

https://www.edinburghairport.com/inside-edi/for-passengers/preparing-for-security-liquids-and-electricals-can-stay-in-your-bag

Pam, this trip sounds SO wonderful. However, when you say crawl do you literally mean on your hands and knees to get into the cairn? I ask because I have two replacement knees and I'm not sure I could do that part. Maybe I could buy 2 of those knee pads you get for gardening????

@Laurie Beth, yes, literally crawl on your hands and knees because the opening is too low to get in any other way! The larger tomb, Maeshowe I can get into by just bending over to get in. No one HAD to go into this particular tomb but I wanted to go in. Last time I went it had rained a lot and had standing water at the entrance so I didn't do it. This time I was ready for mud and while there were not puddles there was mud. The other tour member who went in with me used a grocery bag and skooched in on it to keep her knees from getting so dirty. You could use knee pads if you felt like you wanted to go in. Of the 8 of us, only 3 went in. The other gal and I spent a lot of time in there. There are 4 chambers off the main one and she managed to crawl into one of them as well. Here's a website that shows the entrance tunnel.

https://www.orkneyology.com/cuween-hill.html

Wow, really excellent TR, Pam and so glad everything worked out so well! I remember your trip with Mark to France last year and all the new place names I learned, (I really had no idea there were so many neolithic sites in France.) And this trip is really even more of more. Fabulous. SO glad the Timeshifter app continues to work well for you, I have to say it's only as good as the operator (me) who sometimes just can't get up earlier and earlier before departure. Huh, all that sunshine, how dare they??

I wanted to ask about down time - I saw you may only have had one day where you really didn't DO much? This sounds like basically a MONTH away from home, go go go. And you really did visit a lot museums that added to your understanding of the neolithic era!!! It actually makes me feel better about our upcoming December trip to Pompeii. I've been slightly chagrined at just HOW many ancient Roman and Greek sites I want to see. HUH. There is no such thing as too much of something you love when you travel as long as it's not caloric?!
Dang, forgot to ask, where / when did you do your amazingly muddy laundry? Sink washing?

Thanks again, it was a bit too early in the day for popcorn, but as soon as I saw this report, I knew I was in for a treat!!

Pam! I've been eagerly awaiting hearing about this trip and it didn't disappoint!

I recommend the movie The Outrun with Saoirse Ronan which was filmed on Orkney. Raymond was the underwater cinematographer for it!

Holy cow! My giant eyeballs when I read this!

I had too many hard sided things in my day pack for the flight over. I need to go for more squish. For some reason I felt I needed a small kit of art supplies ...

Omg this made me lol

I needed my Smartwool glove liners a couple of days, including the day I decided to have ice cream and sit on a bench outside the cathedral in Kirkwall, (insert eyeroll here!).

A woman after my heart! One of the smartest things my mom ever said is that it's never too cold, and you're never too full, for ice cream

I thought it was going to be loud but at 10P the noise stopped and everyone went home, lol.

My kind of people lol

I have encountered more chatty people on this trip than I think I ever have. Not sure if it’s Scots in general or Orcadians/Shetlanders specifically but they all want to talk! ... Really, it was quite fun!

I bet they felt the same --you're so fun!

I am so happy it will be weeks before the smile can be wiped off my face, hahaha!

I'm so happy you had such an incredible time!!

Wondered why it was quiet from the “Pam side” of the forum!
Such a great report, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.
Thanks!
I bet you’re already planning to go back…..!

Great report as usual! It makes me want to go, but I just can't plan that far in advance for Mark's tours. But, I think I'll look again now...

Welcome home Pam!
Wow what an amazing trip!!!
Excellent trip report....love your writing with all the details.
You are such a trooper to keep on going through all kinds of weather!
Sorry you had bad weather for your birding trip.
Glad you had such a fabulous time.
And glad you're home safely.
This forum has been pretty dull without your posts.....good to have you back!

Wonderful, fun trip report, Pam! Welcome home!

Pam, what a great trip you had! I hope you didn't stumble across any murders in Shetland.

And 2 liters, did you bring home some rhubarb gin? Thanks for sharing.

I thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, Pam! You continue to delight the travelers, and those who travel vicariously through your trip reports! Thank you!

Welcome home, Pam!
What a wonderful report- you are inspiring! And I think Scottish tourism should hire you :). Your walking trip was the impetus for me to go, this fall.
I especially appreciate that you don't ever let the weather stop you, and what a positive outlook and attitude you have! Thank you!

Pam, I am writing this from Salt Lake City and loved, loved, loved this report! First, I'm so glad that the hotel worked out! But it sounds like the whole trip was wonderful! I am sorry you had to stow your crossbody bag, but they are really getting militant about it! On some of my flights, they make announcements ahead of time, saying that you MUST stow any additional bags, no matter how small.

I loved the info about the tours. How could they not be bad with Mark at the helm—he makes me laugh just reading his Facebook posts, so I can only imagine what he's like in person. And I love that he is so flexible with the itinerary!

Really, there was so much great information here, and I am parking it away for when I get to Orkney and Shetland one of these days! Thanks for the extremely thorough report! And kudos to you for whipping it out so quickly! I am impressed!

You always sounds like you have a delightful time on your travels, Pam!

so I just walked to Waterstone’s bookstore

Ha! This sounds like me.

walked out to The Knab past “Jimmy Perez’ house”

I love this!

Had to stow the tiny cross body bag I always wear on the plane when boarding in Spokane. 1st time ever! It is about 7”x5” and it’s just big enough to hold my passport, my phone and my change purse with my money and cards.

Is that the ORI London? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSYX8GM1/?coliid=I1CGL722FWYOI8&colid=3FU0V9NF77KSN&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1&psc=1

I love reading your trip reports. Obviously, you had a wonderful time! Thanks for sharing!

I loved reading this! Brought back some fond memories of Orkney. No such thing as too long of a report when it is well written!

Oh, I forgot...

PRO-tip: DON"T tie your scarf in a fancy knot when you get cold on the airplane because you might get flustered coming back thru security and not be able to get the dang thing off. The security folks just waved me thru when they saw I couldn't get it undone. (insert a couple of eyeballs here!!) It was a smaller silk scarf.

@Sandancisco - Timeshifter has worked well this time even though I was a little lax and did not get as much sleep as they suggested. I did wear sunglasses in the airport on Sunday and decided I would never see any of those people again in my life, hahaha!! I almost messaged you on the day I was leaving because I felt like I had jet lag BEFORE I left with those 2 early to bed and early risings! hahaha!!! I had some easy days at the start, then 2 easy days in between the tours with just very light activity. The tours are pretty active. On Shetland there was one long driving day (going up to Unst) where I did not get my exercise and movement circles closed on my Apple Watch but that was the only day! I had terribly muddy knees after crawling into the chambered cairn. I had planned for that with 2 pr of jeans so....I waited for the mud to dry. Then took them outside and used the nail brush in my "shoe kit" to brush the mud off. They were actually clean enough that I wore them again the next day in case we encountered mud on those activities. I did then do a wash in my ziplock washing bag. And...laughing about the popcorn!

@Hannah - I did have an incredible time. The group really was laughing the next day about how quickly things quieted down. The positive part about staying in a small town where there are few tourists is that all the locals have to go to work the next day!

@SJ - Hahaha....well, I am back and rarin' to go!

@Wray - yes, that is a real "problem" with his tours. They fill so fast and it's very difficult to plan ahead. He was talking a little about 2028 and I just can't think that far ahead, hahaha!!

@Rebecca - you are so kind! I am now looking at my France trip for the fall and allowing myself to think about the East Anglia trip I'm going on next Spring! Like how much time in London before to spend adequate time at British Museum in the Sutton Hoo exhibition, lolol!!

@Cathy - Thank you! See you soon!

@jeanm - Hahaha...they Shetlanders all laugh about that. They had just finished filming a couple of weeks before we arrived. I did reminisce about Jimmy Perez while in Lerwick, lol! I did not bring back any Rhubarb gin! It was SO good. THEN a friend discovered Rhubarb and Ginger gin which was even better!

@Wishin - Gosh, thank you for the kind words! I love to travel and I love to talk about travel to those who also like to travel too!

@BonVoyage - Thank you so much! Well, somehow I let weather stop me here at home but when I am on one of Mark's tours I never want to miss a minute! Sometimes he will throw in an extra walk....At the end of one day on Orkney he said...I'm going to go walk on the beach, who wants to go? 4 or 5 of us went and just walked along the tide line looking for shells, casually chatting and enjoying the late afternoon.

@Mardee - I've loved your hiking photos in Utah but how in the world could you stand the heat in Moab mid-summer? Yikes and sunhats off to you! Interesting about the announcements you've heard. I don't mind them enforcing the rules but it needs to be done with the oversize carry ons too! I loved the location of that Ibis. The first afternoon I had a huge afternoon tea at The Ivy which faces St Andrew Square. For dinner the next night I went to Dishoom, just a few doors down. For my last night after I got back to Edinburgh I went to Amarone on your recommendation and also on St Andrew Square even though I was staying a few blocks away. Yum, SO good! For all those recommendations, I am grateful to you!

@Mardee...continued - OH! I forgot I saw the Roka Chelsea bags in a shop in Lerwick. They had at least a dozen colors so I could not decide which to get and thought I'll just pick it up in a couple of days when we are back in town. Wouldn't you know it?? The shop was closed, apparently for the day (no sign and their website indicated they would be open) so I did not get one. Hot pink or purple was the decision, hahaha!! I saw SO many Rokas all over Orkney, Shetland AND Edinburgh!

@Mary - Hahaha!! Jimmy's house unfortunately has scaffold on it so the pictures did not come out as well, lol. The small purse I have is a "no-name" from TJ Maxx BUT as mentioned above I saw the Chelsea from Roka/Ori and would have succumbed if the shop had been open!

@Ginger - Thank you so much! I did have a fantastic time! Still buzzing from my travel high!

@Acher - Thank you! I really, really love Orkney. I love Shetland too, but Orkney gets the edge with the Neolithic landscape!

ALSO...if anyone is still reading. One thing I noticed is that there are terrible staffing issues on both Orkney and Shetland. Shops and restaurants are sometimes closed when you think they will be open and sometimes no notice is given. I had been following one coffee shop in Lerwick on FB, supposedly open daily, and it was only open 2 of the days I was there or in town! The adjoining shop is also the one that I wanted to go back to but...it was closed. I felt bad that the establishments are not able to get staff. They do tend to be open the days cruise ships dock.

Thanks again Pam. A terrific trip report. Great detail and vivid description. It captured my imagination and brought back memories of a previous Seymour Travels tour that I took several years ago with them. We had a fabulous time and will try and signup for their Nov tour to the Yorkshire Dales. It looks like a fascinating experience.

Terrific report Pam! I’ve bookmarked this for sure. Your report gave such practical info about not just the tour but hotels etc. thanks!

Ah, Ok, let mud dry first! Good idea. I've not tried the 'ziplock laundry bag idea, it's on my list, thanks. UGH having jet lag the day of departure because you got up so early, no wonder you could sleep 3 hours en route!

Just such a fun trip report, thanks again!

Pam, we did the hikes either in the early morning (Canyonlands) or evening (Arches). And the hike in Salt Lake was also in the evening after dinner. The temps are usually down to the low 70's by then and at Arches there was a nice breeze. Plus it's a dry heat, lol!

So glad all the restaurant choices worked out! And nuts to the Roka shop being closed! I've decided I've definitely going back to the UK but I want to wait till the Bayeux Tapestry gets there in September of next year. So maybe spring of 2027 will be my Orkney/Shetland visit, and I can check out the shop then. Thanks!

It was so fun reading your report, Pam! I loved your itinerary with all the time on your own before, between, and after your tours. How I would love to go back to Orkney and Shetland. But I have so many places on my list, I just don’t know…

I am very impressed you got this written so quickly. I still haven’t gotten around to writing about my trip two years ago. Which of course means it isn’t going to happen. Bravo to you! And thank you!

This was a fun read! Very interesting trip. But I must admit the cold wet weather might be hard for this Florida girl to manage. I give you credit.

Pam, thank you so much for your excellent trip report. It is my dream to be able to take these tours of Mark's. How I would love to go !!

Pam, thanks for the very informative trip report. What a dream trip!

@Gerry - Mark is really excited about the winter trip to the Dales! They had previously tried to work out a trip on Raasay but the accommodations did not work out. They came up with this one and have lots of cool surprises! If you are interested, book quickly as I think most of the people from the Raasay trip have signed up for this one!

@ncangelose - I am glad the information seems helpful!

@sandancisco - I've used the zip lock laundry bag for at least 10 years. Not the same bag, hahaha as they do get worn out after 2 or 3 trips!

@Mardee - I, too, am looking forward to seeing the Tapestry at the British Museum!

@Carroll - Well, I started writing it on one of my "down" days between the tours. I realized I might forget stuff from the Orkney tour once I started on the Shetland one.

@BethFl - As a former FL gal, I understand! You have to have the right clothing which I NEVER had when I lived in FL! Visited London in winter twice flying out of Tampa and thought I'd freeze even with a winter coat!

@Kim - You'd have loved it, especially since you are familiar with Orkney!

@Andrea - Thanks for the kind words! I'm not sure how I can love Orkney and Shetland so much when you know how much I love Paris, hahaha!!

Welcome home, Pam!

What an amazing trip, and what a wonderful time you had. I am amazed at how soon you managed to get your trip report posted; it would have taken me days, if not weeks!

Shetland weather was a shock. We hit record high temperatures and sunshine. It was up to 68 some days with bright sun. I seriously thought I’d roast, lol.

Now, this made me laugh and roll my eyes. You had posted on FB about the record high temps, so I looked up the weather for the weeks you were there, and had decided that one of us had lost her mind. 68?????? Good heavens, I would have been adding layers like crazy!

Thanks for a great report; it definitely makes me excited for, and yet a bit apprehensive about, our upcoming Seymour tour this fall. I'm hoping that taking a Rick tour in the time leading up to the Seymour tour will get us in shape. Here's hoping!

Enjoyed reading your report as it brought back great memories of my own trip there. Eshaness in Shetland and the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney are two of my favorite places in the world. Thanks for sharing your trip, hope it inspires others to go to these wonderful islands.

Now, this made me laugh and roll my eyes. You had posted on FB about the record high temps, so I looked up the weather for the weeks you were there, and had decided that one of us had lost her mind. 68?????? Good heavens, I would have been adding layers like crazy!

Jane, this made me LOL. (For the record, I stand firmly in Pam's camp, miserably roasting!)

I really enjoyed reading your trip report, Pam. Even though I've heard Seymour Travels mentioned here on the travel forum many times, I finally went and checked out their website after reading about your great experience with them. I'd love to go to Scotland and am searching for ways to travel there without having to rent a car.

Thanks so much for sharing.

Pam, so thankful you had a great trip! When you said long trip report, I was actually expecting much longer. Regardless, it sounds like you had a wonderful time, and I'm glad you're having these good experiences with Seymour Travels. I've looked at his site, too. All the sites sounded interesting.

Outstanding TR Pam! Your information retention is amazing- I don’t know how you do it.
There’s not much left to say that has not been said, but I do have to say lol at the stumbling across murders in Shetland comment from someone ha ha!

So much to talk about, I can’t wait to see you! Your pictures were fabulous and I’m so looking forward to hearing more in person. I’m also going to be looking here for some rhubarb gin ha!

I really want to get to Orkney and the Shetlands!
I'm impressed with all you managed to see. I'm not really a tour group person but this one, wow.

I agree about light blue! It gets hopelessly dirty so fast, and looks worse than other colors once it's gotten dirty. As bad as white, or maybe worse.

I've had FA's ask me to pack up my crossbody before. I always pack with room for it at the top of my daypack/personal item. By the time I get on the plane I have tucked it away and am good to go. (That reminds me, I'm trying new bags this time. I should do a trial pack to see how it goes. )

@Andrea - Thanks for the kind words! I'm not sure how I can love Orkney and Shetland so much when you know how much I love Paris, hahaha

Pam, it’s possible to love multiple places of varying sizes. I need a mix of city and smaller places with nature. I’m looking forward to seeing you in Paris!

@Jane! - I thought about you every day when it was both "cold" and "hot". There is no shade on Shetland (or Orkney) and we were outside the whole time, mostly. It made me worry about SW France in October and if I am up to the heat! I have already staged a sunhat for that trip! I also had a huge fail on this trip. On the wildlife tour we were walking out to see some nesting birds and it involved climbing over a stile. The bottom step was broken on the near side so the first step was about 2 ft up and I could not do it. Raymond got me thru a barbed wire fence which was easier and I've done that maneuver many times, lol. ALL the stiles we climbed with Mark were in better shape and he and Paul were on hand to help if needed. One of the guys had had a knee replacement about 3 months ago and it was still a little gimpy so he was a little slower going but managed quite well. Meanwhile I am going to work on step-ups both on the stairs (2 steps at a time) and I realized getting into Roger's pickup is a challenge so I can work on stepping into that. I think you all will be just fine.

@Beth - Oh gosh. I love both of those places. I particularly loved thru the trip when Mark would halt us and say...this is where one of the Brodgar stones came from. WHAAT?? I would think. How in the world....

@Hannah - hahahah.....Temperature is so relative isn't it?

@Christine - I'll add that I am not on Mark's payroll either, lol. I just truly enjoy travel with his company. It's just right for me as I like a more in depth experience. If you have questions, I'd be happy to answer them either on the forum or via PM.

@pbscd - Well, I reined myself in a bit, hahaha!! And thank goodness we can't add pictures!

@Rocket - Well, I'm not sure any of our regular coffee places are serving rhubarb gin, hahaha!! I want to discuss my next rain jacket purchase and this time I will write down what you tell me about fabrics and waterproofness!

@Wanderbug - We saw a lot. Well, on all the tours I've been on with Mark we've seen so much. He and his business partner Liz are extraordinary at planning and he has so much back up stuff that you'd never run out of things to see and do if something is unexpectedly not available. You should see his tour matrix for day to day, morning to afternoon, etc. The last day especially, he was trying to fit in a couple of cultural experiences that we had not had time for during the week and we saw them. Still, you don't feel like you are running 90 to nothing and not getting to actually experience what you are seeing. Does that make sense? For instance that morning we stopped by the Tesco supermarket to pick up lunch stuff then started at Jarlshof which is the site on Shetland with Neolithic to 17th century ruins. He did an intro talk then set us free to explore what was of interest to us and gave us about 2 hours. We then headed by van up to Sumburgh Lighthouse for the view (none due to fog, lol), puffins and the history. We had about 1.5 hours there to see what's what and eat our lunches when we wanted. When we got there the power was out and bathrooms were closed so he took those who needed it down to the nearest bathrooms (airport, hahaha)...this took about 20 minutes total but we still had plenty of time to see the area. After we regrouped at the vans, we headed to a beach where he did a short discussion on migration pathways to Shetland and he could draw in the sand, lol. After that we headed to the Croft House museum, spent about an hour here and then had time to zip up to Lerwick to the Textile Museum by 330 before their 4P closure. The ladies in the museum were still knitting and chatting so we had a wonderful time with them. One of the group members was particularly interested in wool and textiles so he wanted to work this in for her although the rest of us enjoyed it too. After that we headed back to the hotel for down time/drinks/farewell dinner.

@wanderbug - continued.....And yes, do the trial pack with your new personal item! I'm already thinking about my packing for my trip the end of September. I like to have that small cross body out so I can immediately stow my passport after boarding, then I know where it is. I've walked onto the plane before with it in my hand, then laid it on the seat while I stow stuff in the overhead and am paranoid that I'll misplace it! And SO true about the light blue color...it was very pretty but totally impractical and I had no idea when I purchased.

@Andrea! - I'm counting the days!

Hi Pam. What a great and thorough trip report. I enjoyed reading it and need to go back and read it again!
Welcome home. It's time to plan the next one!

I have been saving your report so I could savor it. I love the detail! I REALLY need to just buckle down and get to Orkney and the Shetlands but it may have to be 2027.

Hi Pam
Did you also use the Lite Gear day pack for your daily walks on Orkney & Shetland? Is it waterproof? How many liters? What did you carry in it each day? Could it be squished and packed into the carryon bag? I am looking to replace a sea to summit bag that I don't like.

Like you I love Orkney and am planning a return visit for next fall. It's a truly wonderous place!

Thank you for the splendid trip report!

I REALLY need to just buckle down and get to Orkney and the Shetlands but it may have to be 2027.

You and me both! I'm thinking spring or early summer of 2027.

TxTravelMom and Mardee - You’ll of course have the most daylight around the Summer Solstice. I’d probably aim for mid to late June if you can. Start following Orkney Nature (Raymond Besant) for photos as well as Orkney Uncovered (private day tours) on FB. Lodging is really tight on both islands. I didn’t book until Feb for June and almost didn’t get anything. I did check back at the hotel I picked in Kirkwall about 60 days out and was able to shift things around and pick up 4 nights at the same hotel. I realized after I got there that they have a number of bus tours stay there so 60 days out is probably when they do their final cancellations!

There is a very cool chambered cairn that has been closed since Covid that is to reopen in Sept. It’s the Tomb of the Eagles on S. Ronaldsay. I chatted with the son of the man who found it who said the reopening is Sept. He’s not pleased his sisters have turned it over to community to run (eyeroll).

@Diane- I didn’t really take my pack on our walks. We were generally just away from the van for a couple of hours so I mostly used it just to contain my outerwear. I had a sling holder for a water bottle. It is an old LiteGear day pack. I thought the company was out of business but I found this description which is accurate. It is not waterproof.

https://litegearbags.com/product/mobile-pro/

Thanks Pam for your reply & link to Lite Gear.

I had found the link but thought your older pack might be smaller & with a sternum strap if you actually used it for the walks. Guess I imagined that the Seymour walks might be 3-4 hours before returning to the van. I do use a day bag to carry STUFF I don't want to wear yet still be prepared for Scotland's wonderfully fickle weather. I need to reevaluate.

Thanks again!

I have hiked here at home with this pack and you are correctly that it doesn’t have a sternum strap so is not completely comfortable. As I age my shoulders slope and straps tend to fall off. I have a Chico pack that has a sternum strap that is very lightweight and more comfortable. It’s slightly smaller which is why I took the LiteGear.

I’d say the longest hikes were The cliffs of Yesnaby and Broch of Birsay on Orkney and Eshaness on Shetland. Probably 2.5 hours max with the group branching out with different paces and different interests. For instance At Eshaness I knew from my prior visit that there were remains of an Iron Age broch so I hightailed it there. Others walked around the cliffs or the lighthouse. I mis-timed my walk back so was back early, lol. It took me 45 minutes out and 15 back, hahaha!!

I’ve been using the LiteGear Mobile Pro backpack as my personal bag for at least 8 years, probably longer. I wanted to get a new one a couple of years ago because a zipper was starting to stick. The website had it on sale for $35, reduced from $99. I bought 2 so now I should be set for as long as I’m able to travel. I really like how it is organized and it even expands like a suitcase does if necessary.

"I have hiked here at home with this pack and you are correctly that it doesn’t have a sternum strap so is not completely comfortable."

This is probably well known to experienced travelers but it was a surprise to me.

I had a pack I'd bought as a replacement in Venice for one that had torn. It just had two shoulder straps. I assume you mean "sterum strap" as something that goes between the two shoulder straps and keeps them from slipping down?

I ran into that happening with that pack I bought until I noticed that I'd bought a nylon web strap (one, two(?) foot long) with buckle from the AAA Travel store. I used it to attach my smaller item to the top of my rolling suitcase so I could pull both. That turned out to be just the right length to loop around my shoulder straps on my pack and provide the "sternum strap" I think you are talking about.

It made the pack a lot easier to wear.

@Andrea: Oh gosh, that is funny that you have 2 of them. I have to hold myself back from expanding this day pack, lol or I can get it too heavy to lift. Even pretty fully packed (but unexpanded) it easily fit under the seat on Delta's Economy Comfort seating.

@Robert: Yes, that is exactly what we are talking about. The suitcase strap used as a sternum strap is an interesting idea. Would have to see how that "rides" across my female chest, though, hahaha! Thanks for the input, though!

Oh Pam, I’ve so enjoyed reading your TR. It sounds like such a great trip for you and you have my total admiration for crawling your way into all those Neolithic caverns. You go girl! I love all the scenery from Vera and Shetland and I’ve no doubt it was really gorgeous in the way north.

I did also chuckle along with Jane about you roasting at 68. I’m visiting kids and grandkids in Fairbanks now; flew in yesterday all layered up for sure to experience ‘summer’ in Alaska. 68 degrees to me means don’t forget the wool socks!

The one thing I also just marvel at is knowing those standing stones get moved those amazing distances. So incredible. And being with a great guide must really brings that alive. You communicate that so well.

I’m sorry the dates didn’t align for us to meet up again this Oct. in Paris.

New this time was a day trip on the ferry to the Isle of Rousay to see the Neolithic and Iron Age archaeological sites there. This was our worst weather day so we only got to 4 of the sites before we were all pretty wet and chilly and Mark and Paul headed back to the ferry
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When on Rousay did you walk down the steep hill to Midhowe Chambered Cairn & Broch? I have read that it can be very slippery walking if it's wet. Did you have walking sticks for this walk?

Our 1st visit to Orkeny was short and tailored to DH's walking ability. He's not so steady on his feet so no cliff walks or the like. This next visit will be a walking holiday for me. I'm in training. LOL

Have to say Orkney's 'big sky' rivals that of Montana. It's like being in a snow globe with the sky wrapping around you. Such a special place!

Pam- jealous you got to go again. I took Mark’s first Orkney/ Shetland in 2022. We had a blast. Great sites. My first time was in Shetland in 2010 for Hamerfarin to meet and trace my ancestors. Then o. Facebook I found who was suppose to be my RS guide for So England during covid. Then he posted about Orkney/Shetland. Booked it immediately and ran to tell DH were we were going . lol. He loved it too! I would go back in a heartbeat! Off in about 35 days for Greece ( RS tour and Seymour tour (with Liz and Anastasia. Plus I am going solo! David took this year off from Travels.

I never got around to do my TR on my Egypt cruise in February.

Kim

Great trip report Pam. So glad you loved Shetland. It's my favourite place in Scotland. And Roka bags! I have 3 - all bought online. Purple one is my favourite.

What a wonderful trip report! Thank you Pam for sharing so much information. I would love to be able to spend time on these islands and hope to someday. The Seymour Travel group sounds amazing; I will definitely check into it. Thanks, too, for all of the practical advice about packing, clothing choices, etc. Hope you get settled back into to your home routine and enjoy reminiscing!

@Lyndash - Oh yes, I love Neolithic stuff and so does Mark. He really makes it come alive for me. One thing he does is constantly scans the landscape and will point out bumps and lumps that might hide something Neolithic or Iron Age or anything. He also points out the remains of Iron Age field systems which you can actually still see the lines of in the heather covered hills. SO interesting and not something I could see here!

@Diane - Oh Lord, yes, we walked down to Midhowe. Walking DOWN was not too bad. Walking UP was pretty tedious for me. This was the very wet day and by the time we headed back uphill it was pretty slick and steep. I really needed a walking stick but did not have one. IF you go over to Rousay be aware that you have to BACK your car onto the ferry. Yes, all the cars are lined up in lanes with the tails pointing to the ferry slip. The ferry crew motions you to back on and cautions you not to use the camera but to use your mirrors and follow their instructions. When we went it was a sharp incline down and back up but I imagine that was because of the tides. I have a video of this taken from the front seat of Van 1 of Van 2 backing on. Paul was driving van 2 and is a professional Bus driver. Yikes. PM me if you want me to email you the video clip!

@Kim - I am sure your Trip Reports were what got my interested in Mark's tours to begin with. When I was on his Northern England tour in 2023 we were chatting one day and he said since I liked Neolithic landscapes I should do his Orkney tour. I'd never really considered it but signed up as soon as I got back home. I have not looked back. I went again this time because I knew I wanted to be agile enough to crawl into chambered cairns, lol!!

@Skyegirl - Mardee got me started on Roka bags, hahaha. And yes, Purple was one of the ones under consideration. I love that deep purple they have! Hot Pink, Seaport and Purple were the top contenders, hahaha!

@MustLoveDogs - Honestly these islands are just so much fun! The sights are jaw-dropping, the people are wonderful...the only fly in the ointment is they take a bit of doing to get to!

"Would have to see how that "rides" across my female chest, though, hahaha! "

Since it is not attached to the pack you can slide it up and down the pack straps easily. Something not available with a fixed "sternum strap".

Should have mentioned that I appreciate this trip report. Don't know if I'll be healthy enough to do them but I appreciate the descriptions of a place that sounds like I would like to visit.

Wow, Pam! What a wonderful trip and trip report. Thanks! I'm forwarding this to my husband. Cross your fingers for a positive response.

@Robert H - thank you!

@Trotter - Thanks! Hope your husband finds value and inspiration in my trip, hahaha!

Great report, Pam!
I will be ending a Rick Steves tour in Edinburgh on August 9, 2026 and am looking for a hotel for 3 nights, August 9-12. The tour hotel Wilde Grassmarket at 26 King’s Stables Rd. quoted me £1485 for 3 nights for 2 people, a room with a King bed. I’m still waiting for their confirmation. Is this location convenient to the Military Tattoo and the Fringe festival? I tried to reserve a room at the Ibis St. Andrews Square and their website says they are booked for my dates.
Some hotels I’ve emailed say they won’t post 2026 dates until this October.

This is driving me crazy! Do you have any advice for me?

@JudyB, that looks like it's right below the Castle so would probably be convenient. Gulp on the pricing! I would probably carefully check their cancellation policies and if you have free cancellation up to a certain time, go ahead and book this one while you continue to look.

I looked on the Accor website for the Ibis St Andrew and it does not look like they have reservations open past June 28, 2026 so it may be that they are not full, just not taking reservations yet. You could try emailing that hotel directly if you've not done so. I had an issue and they were very responsive. I'd inadvertently gotten on to a website called HotelsOne which is a 3rd party booker. I thought I was on the Accor website but somehow got away from it. Anyway, the staff member helped me figure out what the charge was for. I cancelled, got a refund from the 3rd party and then started over on the Accor app.

I think the Fringe events take place lots of places. I would probably post a separate question for those that are more familiar with visiting during the Tattoo than I am. It "seems" on the surface that the tour hotel would be better situated for getting to the Castle but I am not 100% sure.

Yes, Pam, there is free cancellation up to 24 hours before the reservation date. I was planning to reserve with them and continue to look for something less expensive. My friend and I have private rooms on the tour but decided the most economical option was to share a room post tour. I agree it seems the tour hotel is super convenient to the Castle. When they respond to me, I will reserve the room.