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Trip Report Part 2: The Cotswolds via London

Thanks to all who gave input during planning! Part 1 (Ireland) was posted separately.

Our final itinerary was:
March
21-23 Dublin
23-24 Galway
24-25 London
25-28 Cotswolds (Based in Shipston-on-Stour)
28-29 Chester
29-30 Glasgow
30- April 1 Isle of Skye (Stayed in Breakish)
April 1-3 Edinburgh
April 3-6 Rome

My partner was the primary author of this itinerary as he hasn’t left the country in more than 20 years and it was partially a work trip. I threw up more than one red flag about it being too much too fast, but I was wrong…ish. We could have taken a slower approach and enjoyed it just as much, but the pace ended up working great for us. We rented a car as we departed London and returned it on arrival in Edinburgh or it would have been impossible.

We did not have appropriate time to really visit London, but we needed to land there from Ireland and pick up a rental car, so I was excited to show my partner J a few spots since I had visited with my son (who loved it) in September. J was not excited about London because he anticipated it would be too big and busy for him. It was. But he still enjoyed a good bit of our brief stay.

We got an excellent deal for Locke at Broken Wharf through an aggregate and our expectations were high because we had a fantastic experience at a Locke hotel in Dublin. Our room was spotless, very comfortable and beautifully appointed, but the staff was scattered and the location wasn’t ideal since some of the walkways were closed for construction.

We checked in and headed straight to the Harrod’s Food Hall because, well, we are American and easily impressed by these things. J was overwhelmed by it (fair enough).

Crispin
We went to Crispin in Spitalfields for dinner, partly because I am a cook in the same general vein, and for the architectural interest since J is in that business. It’s very lovely and unique, but I think the place is victim to its own concept- more form than substance and the aloof staff virtually ignored us, seating us by the cold door at a counter even though we had reservations and many warm, lovely tables were empty. The food was mostly good, a couple bites were great, but they committed a cardinal sin (in my book) with inedible garnishes. I do not have the time for that sort of snobbery. We left hungry- and I fill up easily.

Whitechapel
Perhaps an odd choice for a 16 hour stay in London, but it has me under its spell and the most intact historic homes are the type that provide a great deal of inspiration and insight for J's line of work. I recommend a stroll and a visit to Spitalfields if you’ve got the time.

Shake Shack (Mansion House)
Listen. We are from Pittsburgh. Shake Shack is practically exotic. We were still hungry, ok? It was clean and, I only had a custard, but J said the food was hot and crispy.

Neal’s Yard
I know, we are really hitting the major sites in our short time, but this was a bullseye. It was the right size and pace for J and loads of style inspo for the builder. It’s a lovely spot to stroll through and has a couple of niche eateries and shops.

Humble Crumble
I passed this up on our September trip and regretted it ever since. When J went to pick up the rental car, I headed to Borough Market. I ordered one crumble with berries, granola and frozen yogurt for me and one with cinnamon apples, shortbread and salted caramel for J. I sat down to eat mine while I waited and a guy literally pointed at me and announced to his young daughter… “Oooh, we are going to do what she did! Get two each and completely stuff ourselves!” I’ll take the derision because it was expensive but delicious and of excellent quality.

London Traffic
2 out of 10, can’t recommend, but it gets a couple points for the beautiful neighborhoods along the way. Google will loop you through streets closed for ceremonial purposes on repeat, so have a backup or ask for help.

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Stonehenge
Did you guys know you just like, drive right by it on the road with no warning? Cause we didn’t. We also didn’t realize the walk to see it without the overpriced tickets would be about 5 miles, haha. It was chilly and I know it’s just rocks, but it was really cool and sparked hours of conversation about conservation, history, time…

SHAFTESBURY
We spent a couple of hours for the absolute wealth of architectural/construction inspiration. This is the only place that made me regret the pace of our trip. I wish we had stayed a night.

Gold Hill
Yes, it’s as magical as in the pictures. We had it all to ourselves, which was amazing.

The Salt Cellar
Homemade in the nicest way. The traffic in London and our long hike to Stonehenge caused us to miss lunch time, but we had some tea and cake with Gold Hill as a backdrop and that’s a lovely memory.

CASTLE COMBE
We loved all of our time in the Cotswolds, but nothing topped Castle Combe at sunset.

Shipston Fish Bar
This is not a high brow establishment and we had no intention of ending up there, after a road trip and a good 8-10 miles of walking with only crumble and cake, we were capital H hungry. The amount of food for the price was bordering on obscene. We ordered one pita kebab and one large fish & chips and, despite opening the paper in the car and eating like wolves, we couldn’t get through half of it between us. It was delicious and the chips were better than some of the “nice” places we went to. Plus the guys working were fantastic.

SHIPSTON-on-STOUR and The George Townhouse
We were in and out of SoS too much to give good observations, but the Townhouse was an excellent value compared to other options in the Cotswolds. It’s been beautifully renovated and professionally decorated and the pub downstairs is the prettiest, coziest pub we saw in all our travels. We paid $100 a night (+ taxes) for an attic suite with a deep clawfoot tub and large bathroom with tiled shower. Caveats: It’s an old building. There are minor idiosyncrasies and unfortunately, the food at the pub doesn’t at all live up to the ambiance (very average and a bit bland).

STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
Arriving early was wonderful. It was blessedly quiet and we had the all of the most photogenic spots to ourselves.

New England Coffee House
Good coffee, nice people.

Otis & Belle
The fluffiest looking cinnamon rolls you’ve ever seen, but they are dry and cold.

UPPER SLAUGHTER
I don’t think one could spend a ton of time here, but it makes for a lovely morning walk. So peaceful with the River Eye meandering through.

LOWER SLAUGHTER
Boy did the mill and architecture make J’s eyes light up. And the mill shop is a blast.

BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER
This is where we finally caught up with the crowds… understandably. There are loads of cute shops, eateries, and photo ops. We enjoyed our nice long walk

Bakery on the Water
Busy, busy, busy, but my flapjack was delicious and homemade and my coffee was good as well.

BURFORD
We really enjoyed the change of pace with the High Street. I liked the book shops and think this would be a fantastic base for a Cotswolds venture.

BIBURY
She’s real pretty. And tiny.

The Bell at Saperton
We researched Sunday Roast options to the nth degree and this was the most recommended. It was a lovely experience overall and the food was very good, but not amazing. Good ambiance and service. I didn’t realize it was isolated and not well situated for an after dinner stroll.

MORETON-IN-MARSH
This wasn’t our favorite spot. The location was convenient and we did laundry at the laundromat. (No change machine.)

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No 1. Cotswolds (restaurant/cafe)
We only stopped for coffee, but it was very lovely inside and the service was immaculate. I’ve never seen such care taken with an americano and the barista was kind and helpful.

The Bell (Moreton-in-Marsh)
We had to make a stop because we grew up on Tolkein and our kids are big fans. Our youngest was giddy over photos. It’s really nothing special unless you’re super into that lore, but the staff was nice and the tea piping hot. (We were too late for food.)

Major shout out to Joe Thornton, Master Thatcher, who hosted J for a day of work and education. You must click on this link and see his work, which is stunning- and you must scroll til you see the adorable animals he often adds as a nod to the residents of the home.
https://www.instagram.com/village_thatcher/?hl=en

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Did you guys know you just like, drive right by it on the road with no
warning? Cause we didn’t. We also didn’t realize the walk to see it
without the overpriced tickets would be about 5 miles, haha. It was
chilly and I know it’s just rocks, but it was really cool and sparked
hours of conversation about conservation, history, time…

What a good description of Stonehenge. It's the very reason some love it and some think it's a waste of time. We loved it, but I'm not sure if we would have if we had seen it like you did, from a distance. We needed the overpriced inner circle tour to appreciate it.

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Thanks for this trip report. I particularly liked it because you went to so many sites in London I had never considered. Now many of them are on my list. I was in the Cotswolds last fall and agree Bibury and Castle Coombe are wonderful.

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I'm enjoying reading this, and learning a lot about places I hadn't heard much about before. Looking forward to the next episodes.

Too bad you didn't have longer in Shaftesbury, but "the traffic in London and our long hike to Stonehenge" took too much out of your day. Perhaps you could have avoided these delays by taking the train to Salisbury instead of picking up your car in London, and springing for the "overpriced" tickets to ride a bus closer to Stonehenge. Hindsight is 20-20 but I'm curious about those choices.

It's a faster-paced trip than I'd choose, but you're clearly up for that and I admire your energy.

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Thanks for such a comprehensive report, will all the personal touches. Thanks again.

You're in my territory there, and I am curious about the drive from London to Salisbury. It sounds like you got the car in central London and drove straight out? How did you manage with the Congestion Charge? Did they collect the charge on your behalf at the car rental?

How did you leave London and where did you pick up traffic? Maybe you went A3 all the way to A31? Or probably my choice would be A4 to M4 to M25 to M3? I'd always expect awful traffic on the Strand and all the way to inside the North/South Circular. And Knightsbridge likely a bear, especially at the Brompton Road junction, then the construction on the M4 and then the M25 all the way to the M3....

But what did you experience? I live and breathe these roads but would love to hear it from a visitor's point of view.

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33818 posts

Loving your comments about the places in the Cotswolds. Glad you liked Burford, one of my wife's favourite places (mine too). Did you get into the wool church? Or onto the ancient bridge?

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@Allan
It wasn't so far off as I thought it might be and I can understand why it's polarizing.

@Laurie Beth
:)

@dick
We scoured locations for rental cars and, since we were paying a fee to leave it at a different location than where we picked up, it was far more cost effective to pick up in London. The trend went something like, bigger city, less $$. In addition, we don't drive standard, so we had to choose a location that had automatic transmissions available. The further from big cities and airports, the fewer options and the more the cost went up. I strongly prefer train travel in general.

Of course "overpriced" is subjective, but we were happy for a walk after being in the car so long or we would have ponied up. It did feel a bit longer than we anticipated based on the blog posts acting like it was a skip and a hop, but it was brisk and refreshing and we chatted. We were not alone, as there were loads of others strolling along and I was surprised that the "close up" tickets gave a smaller advantage than I'd have expected in terms of proximity. (I'm told it's changed and was once closer?) Mainly, it seemed to offer the opportunity to view from all sides.

@Nigel
Yes, we picked up at Euston. The company did not charge us the fee, but gave us the info and strongly suggested we take care of it promptly, which we did.

We left the hotel and were directed past Buckingham, but the road was closed for somesuch... J told me he had it all ironed out and I never even asked about the route, but I would have waved a red flag if I'd realized. I'm pretty sure were rerouted to A4 via A308, then M4, eventually M3.

No to the Wool Church (J isn't into churches) but yes to the bridge!

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I see your rationale for renting in London. I used an automatic in England and was glad to have it. My Stonehenge experience was 60 years ago(!) when you could go right up to the stones, but that would be impossible now with all the people visiting -- not to mention the graffiti potential of these times.