Thanks to all who gave input during planning! (Truly.)
Our final itinerary was:
March
21-23 Dublin
23-24 Galway
24-25 London
25-28 Cotswolds (Based in Shipston-on-Stour)
28-29 Wales, Chester
29-30 Glasgow
30- April 1 Isle of Skye (Stayed in Breakish)
April 1-3 Edinburgh
April 3-6 Rome
My partner was the primary author of this itinerary as he hasn’t left the country in more than 20 years and it was partially a work trip. I threw up more than one red flag about it being too much too fast, but I was wrong…ish. We could have taken a slower approach and enjoyed it just as much, but the pace ended up working great for us. We rented a car as we departed London and returned it on arrival in Edinburgh or it would have been impossible. Having backpacked, stayed in hostels/ cheap airbnb shared rooms, and eaten mainly street food and groceries on my previous adventures, I felt positively spoiled. (Both have their charms, of course.)
DUBLIN
The city felt strangely akin to our home of Pittsburgh in spirit and even style in some places. We met fantastic people in every city, but none warmer than those in Dublin. We walked around 30 miles in 2 days and enjoyed every minute. We stayed at Zanzibar Locke and were thrilled with the accommodations, the location, and the staff. (The attached cafe is to be avoided, IMO.)
Old Library at Trinity College
We paid the exorbitant fee to visit and ostensibly to see the Book of Kells (a recreation, but thankfully we weren’t in it for that). Not worth it, in my opinion, but I'm a bit of a library fanatic, and my partner does historic architectural restoration, so it had to be done.
Tour of Parks/Squares- Merrion Square, St. Stephen's Green, Iveah Gardens
Can't beat free and Ireland lived up to the lore- it was very green and bright in mid-March.
Kilmainham Gaol
There's a reason this tops the lists of attractions in Dublin. The history is fascinating and meaningful. If you can stand the heartbreak, stop in the museum after to read the letters Peter Cassidy, James Fisher, John Gaffney and Richard Twohig (all between 19 and 21 years) wrote to their mothers before being executed. As the mother of a 20-year-old newly minted infantryman, I had a hard time staying vertical.
Temple Bar Area
It's pretty magical at night. I don't think it's overrated.
Grafton Street area
Abuzz with shoppers, but loads of fun shops and if you love a busker, this is your spot.
Chester Beatty
Why did I not know about Chester Beatty? We stumbled on the museum an hour before closing and the museum guard told us all about the collection(s). There are so many priceless artifacts… and it’s just 1% of the Chester Beatty Collection! It’s not huge, it’s totally free and the exhibits are beautifully organized. Plus there’s a lovely garden. Underrated, in my opinion.
14 Henrietta Street
Not to be missed. If you want a thoughtful and tangible presentation of tenement life in Dublin, this is a good start.
Jeanie Johnston
Sometimes a site doesn’t quite capture the spirit and significance of the story. And that’s ok. If you know a lot about famine-related migration and/or the Jeanie Johnston, this will feel basic, but otherwise, worth the time.
FOOD
Angelina's
The breakfast sandwiches and pancakes were top notch. I’ve never had bacon that good in my life and I probably won’t again.
The Irish Potato Cake Company
Little hole-in-the-wall with delightful ambiance had simple and winning grub.
Brannigan's
Nice ambiance, good food, middling on price. Traditional Irish pub grub, slightly elevated.
Rolling Donuts
These are sourdough and not the thin Krispy Kreme dough we are used to stateside so they have a little substance and flavor. Great toppings and fillings, lovely staff, and delicious donuts.