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Trip Report --Paris in fall of 2023--a few recommendations!

My husband and I spent a total of about a week in Paris before/after a Go Ahead food and wine small group tour in Bordeaux and Burgundy this Sept./Oct. Here a few recommendations:

--highly recommend Hotel Signature Saint-Germain Des Pres. Family owned, friendly, room was very nice and reasonably priced, bathroom modernized. They helped us with restaurant recommendations and some reservations, arranged waiting car pick up from airport. Great location, lots of cafes nearby, near Babylone-Sevres Metro and Bon Marche department store and food hall.

--at the end of the trip we stayed at a RS recommended hotel--Hotel de la Motte Picquet. It was ok but more expensive by far than the Hotel Signature Saint-Germain --maybe due to rugby tournament going on? It was fine but in hindsight we would have just used the first hotel for both ends of our Paris stay. We had wanted to try the Rue Cler area since RS likes it so much. It is a handy street for food vendors for sure but there are great food shops all over Paris, as we learned from our Paris by Mouth tours (see next section!)

--Paris by Mouth food tours--these are terrific! If you are a foodie and like to learn about French food and culinary arts, this is for you! Check their website for all their offerings which are focused around different areas in Paris. We did two tours--North Marais and Left Bank. The guides are very knowledgeable--one of ours was a former chef. We went on a walking tour to several high quality shops--artisan boulangerie, cheese shop, pastry, chocolatier, boucherie, where the guide explains what she is buying for our small group. We ended up at a wine shop where the group sits at a table with paired wines and tries all the food. It is a fun and educational experience. Lasts about 3 hours. You might want to do the tour early in your trip because you will then know more about what you want to buy at food stops during your trip. They need to be reserved in advance of leaving since they do book up. A benefit of doing a tour is you get a free year of their newsletter on Substack which gives you access to their periodic restaurant recommendations. We visited several of their recommendations and they were great.

--Paris Walks--these are great for learning more about various areas of Paris. We did the Marais walk and the French Revolution walk. Both excellent.. Check out their website for all the many offerings. Last about 2 hours.

--Restaurant recommendations--we liked all of these which were recommended mostly by Paris by Mouth.
Semilla; Mer & Coquillage; Elmer; Georgette. We did one blow out dinner at Epicure, a 3 star Michelin restaurant. Fabulous.

--We spent a lot of time walking around Paris, eating or stopping at cafes, and doing the tours noted above. We visited 3 museums-- Musee d' Orsay and Musee Marmottan (we like impressionist art!), Musee Carnavalet (history of Paris--very interesting if you like history and free). We attended an evening concert at Sainte Chapelle, which was wonderful.

Hope this helps someone!

Posted by
7294 posts

Thank you so much for the recommendation of the Paris by Mouth food tours! I find that food tours are so helpful when I’m traveling solo because it gives me the chance to try several items, plus as you mentioned, knowing where to return during the rest of the time there!

I like the St. Germain area, also - more than Rue Cler. It is fun to try different areas of Paris for a hotel, plus an excuse to try different neighborhoods’ bakeries.

Did you like your Go Ahead tour in Bordeaux and Burgundy? I haven’t been to that region, yet.

Update: Oh, I just found your trip report for the Go Ahead tour! Sounds wonderful! For other readers, it’s at:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/trip-reports/september-2023-3-enjoyable-days-in-bordeaux

Posted by
13946 posts

So happy you enjoyed your time in Paris!

Rates must have been increased due to the rugby tournament. The times I've looked at Hotel de la Motte-Piquet it's been one of the less expensive in the neighborhood. Their breakfast room is just so small....

Just looked at a random night in January (when I figured not much was going on, lol) and a slightly larger room at Motte-P (for 1) is 192E while a room at Signature is 300E. Hard to compare apples to apples but these were the prices for a refundable room with breakfast. So...it pays to compare prices.

You may have said in your other TR - how many people were on the Go Ahead tour?

Posted by
13946 posts

So happy you enjoyed your time in Paris!

Rates must have been increased due to the rugby tournament. The times I've looked at Hotel de la Motte-Piquet it's been one of the less expensive in the neighborhood. Their breakfast room is just so small....

You may have said in your other TR - how many people were on the Go Ahead tour?

Posted by
5 posts

For those interested, the EF/Go Ahead tour was great. We specifically wanted a food and wine tour in these famous wine regions. There were about 24-25 people in the group. It started in Bordeaux, then we traveled to the Dordogne region and Saint Emilion. We visited two wineries in that area and at one we were able to watch some of the harvesting and processing of the grapes. Stayed two nights in Perigeux, also saw Sarlat and Lascaux cave (this is a recreation as the original one is closed to visitors--but really fascinating tour). Then to Beaune for touring the Hospice de Beaune, wine tasting and time to explore. Next day was travel to two other Burgundy wineries, then to Paris to end the trip.

Thirty plus years ago, we traveled on our own with RS guidebooks. Now that we are retired, we decided to try out some of the group tour companies, but are adding on time before/after to do some things on our own, sort of a hybrid. We have done a tour with RS, Road Scholar, and now this Go Ahead tour. All were very good in their own way, and we will continue to look at their offerings in the future. Road Scholar and Go Ahead have world wide and US itineraries and specific interest- based tours, which are nice options. Next year we are trying out a trip to Japan with the company Inside Japan since they specialize in Japan.